My wife has a Honda pilot and it had an average sound system, and a lot of road noise. We took it on vacation and I hated the vehicle because of the noise. We had a planned trip to Disney for the next summer so I decided to upgrade the sound system and sound treat the car. I had the car professionally undercoated, and replaced all the speakers with premium speakers and added a powered sub under each of the front seats. My son and I gutted the car one weekend while my wife was out of town. We treated all the floor area, inside the doors and cavities. In the hatch we used neoprene floor mat and rubber mounting glue, we also did this in the spare tire storage, and large body cavities. We also used DEP expanding foam insulation in the tight spots in the body structure. I admit we went full overkill but the results were unbelievable. We let the car sit with the windows open for two or three days. My wife was shocked when she drove the car. A friend tuned one sub to pickup where the door speakers dropped off, and the other to handle the deep lows. I underestimated the value of sound deadening, but it was so worth it. I would do my vehicle, except I drive a soft top Jeep so it probably wouldn’t help so much. Maybe the next car.

Looks like it would be great to do that for your car even without a sound system. A quiet ride reduces stress all the time.

Sound treatment also makes the vehicle feel more premium. Feels more solid and better isolated from road noise. It's one of those upgrades that once you've done, you'll always want.

I had a long phonecall with the owner of Hushmat and he said you only need 80% coverage. Anything more just adds unnecessary weight. He is a degreed acoustical engineer, and before he started Hushmat he designed noise control packages for OEM carmakers. He said that shops that apply 100% coverage do so because they don’t want the customer to feel they are getting ripped off. Above 80% there is no further benefit. Adding weight to a vehicle has effects on fuel economy, handling, and other factors. He further said it’s critical to seal holes in the firewall - sound sprays through them into the interior like a firehose through any small openings. I have been using this Soundshield on my customer’s cars and it saves installation time - you no longer need to apply a Hushmat or Dynamat type product, and then apply closed-cell foam on top.

Sound treating is SOOO underrated. I always figure the cost in when I replace factory speakers, it makes an incredible difference.

our shop has two bells. one with a small square of sound deadener, one without. its a very effective demonstration

The difference that thorough sound deadening makes is enormous.

Total mastery of attention to detail. Wow im speechless at the level of professionalism.

Thanks buddy, subscribed. I did this more for a minor rattle in my car door, ended up doing your “wiggle test on all the exposed wires (which were not many) on a new Mazda. Put foam on any potential contact points and TESA Tape on as much of the plastic clips as possible. My car door is dead silent now. Freaking love it.

Mark Zuckerberg does custom sound systems​ too? Just kidding. Subscribed.😂👍

I deadened my truck doors and cut out a lot of road noise. I went through the trouble to measure the road noise with a calibrated microphone and an app on my smartphone to get a before and after. On smooth roads at low speed it made very little difference. But at interstate speeds on a rough road the difference was substantial.

I would love to hire this guy if I wasn’t such a DIYer. Great work!

If you ever have your dash out you can use the slim to sound deaden the firewall, your vent tubes and your blower motor housing. Don’t forget that your glovebox and center console might need some love also.

I won’t be able to this all at once but I did purchase a small amount of the material for the usual suspects. License plate, around the speakers, etc. I’m doing my own and taking my sweet time. Thank you for your videos. 👌

I did this for aircraft, we dont cover every square inch we just did the flat open areas, the change is amazing if you walked from the shop floor with 80-90 rivet guns going to inside the small business jet even with the doors open. If you got the money do it you dont really need to be focused on a stereo setup to enjoy the benefits.

Before youtube and this channel my first experience with dynamat went very well. I didn't do a cover all but I did hit those important areas just like Mark explains in this video. Great work my man! I've been watching you for a few years now. I've refined some of my skills with your guidance and wisdom. I do car audio installs as a hobby not as a profession. The leather punch is a great idea. I started using that idea recently. I usually just cut a hole with a knife by making an X then cutting off the pieces.

I have a first Gen Mazda 3. Those who know will agree that this is needed even without touching the sound system. I'll have this done in the spring.

I love this dude!! He and EXO are the Socrates and Plato of audio!🙏🏽

love your videos. learned a lot. i did the doors in my 2015 vw beetle and was surprised that VW actually had put some in it. wasnt but a few pieces, but they took the time to do it. it made a huge difference with the door panel rattles. i ve been going backwards on my system though. ive had to go back into the door a few times. speaker, the foam rings, sound deading. but when you start off telling yourself that its just going to be an upgrade, thats it. and you whined up with 2 amps, new cabin speakers and a sub. lol you get it. when i get my new, louder stuff for the rear and hatch. i will be better prepared. ty for sharing your knowledge with us.

If you are creating holes that you'd like to reinforce, like for that handle wire, try using the circle punch set to create concentric circles. An insulation "washer."

I always put strips along the legs of the basket of the sub/bas. Works wonders on stamped baskets. Tap a basket before and after. It rings like a bell and it's audible through the membrane. Nice video!

You do very meticulous work better then the average custom installer keep it up

At this very moment, I have my interior removed, and I'll be doing exactly this THIS WEEK. Thanks for taking the time to do this while having no idea that I was going off of your previous videos until now.

Right video at the right time. I was about to plan sound treating my Ford Ecosport. Really the best video I got from youtube. Informative& crisp. Thank you brother 💕💕. Waiting for the next video.

Last fall I did some sound treatment on my cargo van. The sound deadening material killed half the noise, and stopping the symphony of squeaks and rattles by wrapping all the loose parts was the other half. The van now sounds weirdly solid as I drive around.

I just installed sound treating to all doors, trunk and floors and OMG is it making a difference. It took me just 3 years to decide to do it lol. Installed HU, AMP, speakers and sub awhile ago and finally treated with sound deadening, wish I did it sooner. I gotta thank CAF for tutorials and making me believe I can do it lol

Good to see your professional skills applied to an average ride with time and cost constraints. (Overlooking the fantastic, but pricey JL gear you are installing in the back of course.)

Good points about covering the whole door and services access points... Was 2 minded, definitely gonna fill those up

Thank you! Learned so much like about corner strength, use of cloth tape, etc.

Covering the shock tower reduces the road noise tremendously.

Bro this is the only channel ever where a 15 inch sub is a better demonstration of scale then a banana or a ruler

Chevy Equinox: the official car of going 10 under in the passing lane.

This is a great series man. Thanks for sharing.

This does really work for better sound quality. In the early 90's in Australia there was only Dynomat available and in my Mazda 323 4wd turbo made a hell of a difference. Its the only way to dence the sounds that do rattle to become victorious in pure sound.

These videos are the best, I'm putting my first layer of deadner on I needed to see this

Thanks for another top quality video Mark! You are an excellent teacher!

This is a great reminder of the sacrifices I just made to my car 😂 I used 72ft^2 of material and rolled that shit right over everything in my goddamn path 😂 granted I have 2 mystery screw clips I still don’t remember what they went to, but yeah 😂

back in 97 I put so much dynomat in my truck, had two alpine type r 15s could barley hear it from the back but would knock neighbors loved me

Special clear tape is genius.

I am In the process of doing my front doors at the moment (passengers door complete). I had an annoying vibration in my passenger door which I have now fixed and am extremely happy about. Even a little sound treatment goes a long way, as I’m doing it on a budget I was still impressed with the difference. Thanks for the great channel!

Sound deadening, much like others have said, is crucial and underrated. The benefit of it is two-fold. As he demonstrated in the video, it can eliminate resonance, aka "the clang". This helps minimize sympathetic vibration in the area where the material is applied. This will lower the noise floor in the car, but where it will it have massive impact is in the doors. When applied in the doors, it concentrates the surface area making audible sound to the actual speakers. This will lower noise, lower phase cancellation, allow the front stage to really manifest. Imaging will improve across the board, especially with additional time-alignment. The second thing this sound treatment does is add mass. Mass loading an object lowers its resonant frequency. Why does this matter? Say the untreated metal in your inner doors loves to resonate at different locations between 50-80hz. Throw your speakers in those doors and good lord the buzzing and rattles and shoddy imaging. Add the sound deadening material and the mass of the metal has increased, which lowers the frequency it inherently wants to resonate at. In some cases you can mass load to lower this by 2 octaves or more. Say you got that in those same doors.... now they resonate at 12.5hz to 20hz. Now you can put those same speakers in that door and it will sound pristine with no buzzes.... even full range. This lets you do some creative things tuning the car. Less noise? Lower gains on the amps. Less gain? Less speaker excursion in a given bandwidth. Less excursion? Cross your fronts over lower, getting more of the bass in front of you. Cross your sub over lower and be able to bump the gain in the sub-30hz material without overrunning your mid-bass. This, of course, more of a sound quality setup.

I sound deadened every car I had until now. It is such a big difference in sound. Next step, if it gets warmer these days, will be, that I dampen the wheelhouses where the struts are connected. I think that much road sound is coming through there.

Great info and video. Quality install. Cheers from the UK!

****DUDE: You forget to mention that you have to line up the letters parallel to the ground in order for the sound deadening to work properly. This allows the molecules in the sound deadening to properly orient to the car and thus control vibration accurately. Trust me...... Look me up for proper training & use for a 6x9 hole saw.

Great info Mark! keep up the awesome work!

Worth every penny and hour of time spent.

that roll looks eeriely similar to soundskins roll. Great vid as always.

Kudos. Appreciate your attention to detail.

Good explanation on sound deadening

This is awesome , huge help how I'm going to do it this time , templates are awesome

A cada vídeo, um aprendizado, sou muito seu fã, vc é o melhor 🚗👏👏👏

Great information! Too good video! Very nicely explained!

Hey thanks for such a informative video. Got to know some really helpful tips and tricks...

Absolutely amazing job brother, good video. 👍

Great explanation and demo

I like perfection in work

A little thing I learned at work is if u use a dead blow hammer on hole punches u get a quiet hit so you can hit harder without damaging the punch since the hammer is plastic and it won't hurt ur ears either

The one dislike already installed their sound treatment wrong 😂

The aluminum was a paid actor 👏

Sound treatment overlooking is the reason why I gave up on my last attempt at huge bass in my car. I'm trying again this year but getting the deadener and power upgrades done before even purchasing my first speaker.

nicely done. thanks.

Excellent good video topic of choice for discussion brother people need to know this very important piece of information

Galing, pulido ang gawa !

I enjoy watching your videos , I always wanted to get a job doing custom work on cars but in AZ there really isn’t any schools that I know off. I’ve had to trial and error on my own rides. Sometimes in your videos it looks like your doing to much , but like this video compared to others Ive seen where you do the sound deadening and you don’t say if that car is a show car or not, I would presume it’s just a reg car but you do the extreme of sound proof.you state the difference in this video between going all out on a show car as to compared to an all day driver..I wouldn’t close up those bigger holes , maybe in newer cars yes but to everyone doing this to old school cars I wouldn’t recommend doing that.. the reason being is if you don’t care then do what you want to do but for others a lot of old school rides the window mechanism messes up. If you block it with sound proof your gonna have to either rip the whole piece off in attempt to put it back on which it’ll loosen the sticky ness of the adhesive or your going to have to cut a hole where you pull out the motor or the window regulator.. unless you go to the extreme like one of homies videos and make like a separate wood piece or something that gets bolted in and can be taken off at will.. I’ve worked on many older rides and there built more solid then these cheaper plastic cars so these cars have more things to rattle then old schools… other then that advice I think you give good advice on what your doing but some people need to realize it takes time and dedication and just by watching your work and how clean it is they might not get that same end result… I know from my experience trying to mimic some one else and what they where teaching it didn’t come out as clean but over time and doing it over and over I got way better.. I would like to dive deeper in all the wiring within a car , I was told especially with these new cars you have to run some type of firmware mainly when your installing alarms not so much audio but I was told you have to be very careful and know wussup bcuz if not it’s like 1 thing is connected to everything and if you pull or hit the wrong thing on accident the whole car will shut down.. is that true ?? It be interesting if you made a video about that.. anyways good work homie much respect ✊🏽

Hey mark my wife has the same car!! Very interesting

Always great content

Damn dude you got tool to fix tools I had no idea how many tools there is for car audio

Very interesting video to watch

Got the nvx trunk kit haven't installed. Now I can't wait to do it

Thank you

good lesson

I'm planning on sound treating my Chevy Express passenger van. Looking like I'm going to need quite a few tubes!

Flat vs curved areas... good observation.... dint know that ... thanks

Seriously peeps, removing and covering the moisture/pressure box is a must. HUGE amounts of noise created by this. I started doing sound deadening with Cascade back in 1994.

I totally need to do this to my diesel truck.

Nice!

awesome!

I want this guy to treat my car and install my speakers lol

Your my hero

You forgot to cut the window raising motor. This solution is the best because of isolation of door but not sustainable if something went wrong. Thank you the video!

Make sure Doug sees this he's about to do his van

I have watched a lot of your videos and learned a lot. Where the *#%¥ did you go to school to learn this stuff? You really know what you’re doing. I would ship my car to you for work to be done. You are no joke.

Another good tool for making a perfect hole for any kind of gasket just use a socket depending on the size get you a socket a hammer and you're good to go

Master 👍👍👍

Hey Mark what foam do you use to wrap those wires which run inside the front doors what type of is ideal . thanks

Awesome video as usual thx Mark... when I buy my new Truck I want you to build my system if you want another project truck to video

Awesome

You could also take a short cut and just add close cell foam under your floor mats ... 👍

13:38, the WIGGA test! Fido, give me a noise!

Kick ass..

Funny you mentioned not having to deal with any mechanical issue in the door. Just had to replace the rear passenger door latch assembly on my 05 Suburban. A cool $600 out the door (pun intended). lol. Thankfully I haven't put any product on it...YET!

Great video. Thank you. Can you please post a link to a closed cell foam used for wire insulation at 7.14?

Thank you so much I just bought some sound deadner and some aluminum tape and roller and foam insulation and I was worried I may not have enough after watching your previous videos so this video really helped. I wonder how difficult it will be to get under the carpet in the front without removing the seats.

Can't wait to install some sheets in my front doors, my midbass performance is terrible. My doors for most likely the same reason have that awful metallic cling as you shut them that should be featured on a "Top 5 most unsatisfying sounds" compilation. I'm sure being a relatively new car the Equinox did not have such a harsh door closing sound, as I notice most newer cars make a point on avoiding that, but did you notice any difference in the sound of the doors shutting? I'm hoping after a complete treatment the issue is solved on my older truck. You and Five Star Car Stereo definitely are the best at attention to detail as far as car audio goes, keep it up!

Where did you get the foam for wrapping the wires? Thanks for the great video

How many rolls would you think it would take to do an entire Volkswagen 4 door GTI hatchback? All doors, floor, roof, and hatch? Unless you think any of the latter are unnecessary. Thanks for all of your help. I've been binge watching your videos. Excellent content.

Sir you are doing your job with more professionalism with tools. how we can do at by our self if we don't have tools.

Hey, love your videos! But I'm wondering if there's anything you you do to the inside of the inner side of the door. I'm talking about the side we're the cone of the speaker is. Do I need to place a difusor mat or noise isolation mat there something? Thanks in advance!

Hey Mark. Can you make a video about, how to run new speaker cabels from the doors to the trunk. I need to do it to my car, but dont know the best way to do it.

does sound deadening the interior of a custom ported enclosure do anything? what about spraying rubber protective coating on the interior?