Haha this is true.

Hey man, can i wire 2 4ohm dvc and 2 4ohm svc together on a 2 ohm stable amp?? If ao whats the wiring scheme for it?

I’m in the same boat…. But I’m going to revive my Kenwood KAC-PS200T amplifier…. I hear They don’t make em like they used to 👍🏼

Learned that in high-school reading car audio magazines. 1991.😏

The correct math is simple. I rather teach the correct way, that way in a case that they aren't all the same value, if you were doing something else electrically, it's done properly.

@@CarAudioFabrication I think you took that wrong. I wasn't saying your way was wrong, but neither is mine. They are both correct just used for different situations. And in the electrical field we use all 3 ways.

Great video and explanation. Keep doing more of this explanation kind of videos. Cheers from Portugal.

I have one 10TW3 in a Stealthbox and it POUNDS! I can’t believe how impressive these are!

WELL SAID! You can most certainly tell he LOVES to teach what he knows, and explains it soooo well!

The RD1500/1 is a great choice for that.

@CarAudioFabrication Mark, I really appreciate you getting back to me brother. I will look into that amplifier. 👍💯

I tested this. I have a single JL 13W7D1.5 AE and I tried both 3 ohm (series) and .75 ohm (parallel) and I have settled on parallel. If you are running a decent amplifier and your electrical is solid, you shouldn't notice any sonic differences. I was hard core against low impedance configurations until I tried it for myself. Most UNREGULATED amplifiers that will run and are stable at low impedances will provide (proportionally) higher dynamic capability into lower impedances. With the 13W7 @ 3 ohms, I was fighting impedance rise and running into amplifier clipping, even using a SounDigital 5K, (rated 5,000 @ 2 ohms) which only gave me 1400-1500 watts RMS after impedance rise. I ended up going with the D4S JP 23v2 and wiring down to .75 ohm. With this configuration, I am enjoying up to 3dB of dynamic headroom and rarely ever clipping. Remember this: you're always better off having too much power than not enough. You can always gain match for the appropriate power level. Also, don't worry too much about impedance rise because it constantly changes, depending on frequency and power level. If you have a properly constructed enclosure, you will get predictable results!

The higher the load of the sub the quicker it will respond to signal.. also the less heat the amp generates. Much of that heat is transmitted to the sub which results in more heating of the sub.. It’s easier and cheaper to get loud per se going lower.. power is cheaper but that power is less efficient and taxes your electrical system a lot more.. There is also a lot more to this like the dampening factor of amps.. full bridges or not.. so many variables.. Ideally in a perfect world you wouldn’t have to spend 10k to get 3k of power at 8ohm and that’s how everyone would be running thier setups.. The people who know strive to use a final of 2 because you can’t decent power from the amp be a little easier on the electrical system, have tighter control of the speakers and the just have a cleaner signal to the sub that is less heat transfer more power transfer ratio.. Liken it to this for just a non specific example to give an idea.. A 3k Brazilian amp for $250 will send 3000 watts to a sub at 1ohm or 1500 watts to a sub at 2ohm.. For starters that’s a draw of 3000amps or 150amp off the battery.. However that amp is 70% efficient at 1ohm and 80% efficient at 2ohm.. the result is 70% of that 3k is not actually single the sun uses to make musical notes.. the other 30% is thermal loss. The hotter things get the less efficient they are.. just for ball park and it’s more in depth then this.. The reality is the gain between in actual signal to the speaker isn’t 1500 watts. It is but not all that is signal much is transmitted as heat.. the actual difference would be more like that 3k as it is turned into mechanical movement of the speaker is more like say 1750 watts.. the rest of that is heat.. when you meter it it will still read 3000 because heat is also power and we are only measuring for power not signal.. That same setup at 2ohm isn’t making 1500 musical watts either..it’s closer to say 1200. That is not the biggest difference one would think now when it comes to the fact one is drawing 2x as much from the electrical system overall but only generating 25% or more actual signal.. Now with all that extra heat you find things like glue on the sliders coming lose, amps clipping after they play for a while and get hot.. the sub is being driven way harder then it needs to be and it wears down quicker as well.. The thing is at the end of the day if you took two identical mid level systems and put them on the meter.. say that 3k is on a single 12 and it does a 140.5 on music off the dash.. That same sub off that same amp at 2ohm will meter say 138.5.. but it will play that 138.5 all day everyday for 24h a day 365 days a year.. It’s give and take.. the reality is a $500 amp from a name brand company that makes only 750w but that power is super clean.. would hit around a 138 on that same setup.. This is why the ogs say younger what you pay for.. 3k watts from a $200 Brazilian amp in reality isn’t the same as when 750 off say a jl or dd or dc or kicker etc.. it just isn’t.. I could go to Walmart buy a $50 sub.. build my own box for it.. and throw it in about any vehicle out there on a 500w amp run at 2ohm maybe even 4 if need be.. with proper wire, proper alternator power, proper battery setup etc and embarrass a lot of kids running around with 5k teramps on some skar subs in a prefab box on a factory agm battery and factory 120amp alternator. And I’m not bashing these companies they do what they do but the people that mostly use that stuff don’t really know what they are doing, buying etc.. My daughter runs a single skar evl in a skar evl box on a skar 800.1 amp off factory 120amp alt and a lead acid battery at that lol.. I got her doing 140.2 off the glass.. blows everyone in her school away and I’m not even a professional in this field just been doing it since early 90’s and I know how to do it right even with sub par equipment. Hell I run a Teramps 3k in my personal truck.. but that’s also off a 320amp alternated dual runs of 0/1 wire and to dc subs.. and it’s also at 2ohm not 1.. I doubled the power needed from a lower quality amp so I don’t have to drive it as hard making it not as bad.. Here is something people always miss.. you got a 3k amp.. or 2k or whatever.. you got a 120-160amp alternator.. batteries don’t supply power they store power.. you run off the alt bit the battery.. batteries don’t like to give up the power quickly.. so how do you get 3k watts power assuming the amp is 100% efficient which is impossible (this means 300amps of power drain) from a 140 alternator (which I think is standard for most mid size cars now or 160 from what is common for most trucks and larger subs now when it can only physically give about 50% of that after it runs the engine and all the electronics? It can’t! And the battery which doesn’t like to give up its power can’t cover the difference either.. it might give you another 30-40 amps at times in short bursts.. so in reality people think they are getting 3k watts but they only have 100amp or so to give.. so it’s really running at 1000 watts not 3000. And again you can clamp all the wires and speaker leads you want it it wil measure 3k all day. But that’s not 3k signal that’s just 3k power.. you may as well just plug you speakers into the electrical outlet in your house at that point cause that’s pretty much what you’re doing..

Yay - my old school knowledge is still useful. .

It is true. Rarely if at all, will you see your sub's "resistive" rating while playing in a properly designed and constructed enclosure. Just try not to wire your subs "in the dirt". There are some amps that are rated at 1 ohm that will have no issues at .5 and if you wire at .5 ohm, chances are you will be fine. I am wired at .75 and I rise from .9 to 1.1 and my peak is 4 ohms.

If you're concerned with efficiency due to electrical limitations, it is important to know this! Some amplifier's efficiency ratings go in the trash at 1 ohm and below. It's good to check out Williston Audio Labs amp dyno reviews. 😁

The TW3 is seriously a modern marvel. The ability to create incredible sounding solid bass in such a small air volume and space is crazy.

@@CarAudioFabrication I've heard three 10TW3s that almost "rivalled" my single 13W7, almost. They are truly miraculous feats of engineering!

You typically want to avoid series wiring between subwoofers. Better to design for parallel between subs.

Do your rcas run along your power wire to the amp?

@@keenaneisermann883 no, just remote wire

@@maxx4944 wait

The lower the ohms the more power the subwoofer can handle due to lower ohm subs have more resistance. Basically a 1 ohm sub against of 4 ohm sub = 1 ohm can handle more wattage but the 4 ohm sub would be more efficient power wise keeping your amp running cooler. The lower the ohms are the more strain on your amp but SPL will be much higher on the lower ohm sub. Also the speed of the subwoofer has nothing to do with power (wattage). Speed of a subwoofer has to do with the motor structure, cone material that it is made of, and what type of box structure you use. In my opinion sealed subwoofers are faster and more articulate than ported but there will be people who disagree. Back pressure on a sealed box controls the cone movement better in my opinion. But all subs are not built equally so a poor built sub in a sealed box may sound worse that a good sub ported if the ported box is well structure, the box is tuned well to the sub installed in it, and braced well.

OOF! That's rough, probably didn't have much output.

@@CarAudioFabrication no I was always dissapointed with that sub, now I know why!

Not if you have a decent amplifier and solid electrical.

Its impossible for the 2 Ohm rating to be equal to the 1 ohm rating... The 1 ohm should have more wattage. This looks like a typo from the amp manufacture or store that is selling this amp. If that 1 ohm rating is true though it also means that the subwoofer should not be run at 1ohm because having a negative percentage factor in there means that amp can't handle that 1 ohm power load...

@@petedetraglia4776 those are from the manufacturers website. The manual basically says the same. "(RMS Power [Watts] @ 14.4V, 4Ω mono, ≤ 1% THD+N 600W x 1 @ 14.4V, 2Ω mono, ≤ 1% THD+N 1200W x 1 @ 14.4V, 1Ω mono, ≤ 1% THD+N 1200W x 1 NOTE: 2019 CXA mono amplifiers are 1Ω stable - power rating +/- 10%.)" I currently have it running at 2oh but I would like to add a second subwoofer wired at 1oh

You are correct. Using the term "dual voice coil" is a misnomer. There's always only one coil of wire which has multiple windings. In order to achieve the amount of resistance necessary to claim a speaker has an impedance of 8 ohms, 4 ohms, etc., they have to use multiple windings in order to use the necessary length of wire it takes to build that much resistance. Obviously the other approach is to use larger diameter windings (2" coil vs 3") or "taller" coils, but then you're getting into extreme applications, like long-throw woofers. Anyway, I'm going down a rabbit hole. You get the point. 👍

Dual 4 ohm can become 16, 4 and 1, if you use all coils. 16 is series+series, 4 is parallell+series, 1 is parallell+parallell. A pair of 2ohms can become 8, 2 or 0.5, for series+series, series+parallell or parallell+parallell. You could in theory wire one sub in series and the other in parallel, or leave one coil not connected, but why would you.

Impedance rise on a sub that's wired in parallel vs. series is proportionally lower. I recently discovered that impedance rise is not a static number. This is important if you're trying to squeeze every bit of performance out of a setup.

@@RodofAllTrades Yes, I’m aware. Series up to 4 ohms is a goal, but I was speaking of the physical presence of additional wiring Probably a minimal interference

Haha, definitely not your typical connections.

Hey! Thanks for watching! For videos on this topic check out what I have covered in regards to integration here: www.youtube.com/@CarAudioFabrication/search?query=integration

@@CarAudioFabrication can you give the link of playlist that is on this topic ?

You ask yourself why you selected this combo.

@@CarAudioFabrication it was a hand me down sub from my dad and my dad’s friend gave me the amp

Ok, well unfortunately it's not going to be optimal.

Guessing wired in parallel yes? For a 2 ohm load to the amplifier?

The wire on the subwoofer is exposed to all the cooling benefits of the subwoofer. Your speaker wiring that is stuck under the carpet and routed through the vehicle is not. You absolutely are going to want to have large wire on a large power system, otherwise you are going to have a bad time.

DISTANCE = RESISTANCE. The shorter the wire length, the thinner it can be.