Thanks, I am glad it could help

Thanks for stopping by and watching

They do indeed work well thanks for stopping by

I hope it helps. Im assuming your gas is getting hot after the pump. I try to move most of my lines and re route them. I have always had good luck with the gasket keeping the carb cool enough

@@EfurdGarage faulty needle jet now. The tip has been flattened out and no more vapor locking up in the fuel line but sticking float cause of this needle jet looking like the tip got mashed. How does the tip go from being pointed to flat. I got my modification kit for quadrajet power and is this a result from a faulty or bad quality needle. I don't see how or why this would be damage like it.

@@jasonbeason4780 you know thats a good one, sounds like a bad needle to me. cant say i have had that happen or seen it

Fan shrouds are a must. The spacer should have done it but adding the gasket could help more. gasket is most likely better then phenolic at blocking heat although i never tested it. i run an aluminum spacer with the heat gasket on my daily in 100+ degree and never an issue so it should do the trick still

I hope this info helps you

you wont regret it

Hope it helps. and thanks for watching

well if you have a proper cowl hood it should allow fresh air into the intake. i have seen open cowl hoods allow heat out while the vehicle is sitting still but once it moves air goes in. now heat extractors those are great and help alot and wont let water in if set up with the right channeling underneath

lol yes a must have. although i still cant tell you how many people dont run one

Cordobas are great cars, especially with the 400 engine.

yea cowl hood will solve that issue lol

i think that would help, i have seen them here and there. apparently almost the same concept to help keep heat off the supercharger itself. i guess depending no how big you can go it may help performance by making longer runners

@@EfurdGarage Any way you can reduce heat is a bonus. Cheaper is better👍

@@b5beast611 your right. I had a truck I molded trans am vents I'm the fenders, after driving it awhile you could pop the hood and there wouldn't be much heat lol

@@EfurdGarage 😆👌

No problem thanks for stopping by

I forgot to add what the symptons are. Bike starts and runs but when I stop at the lights and let the revs drop below 2000rpm it stalls and will not restart for 1 to 2 minutes. Done it ever since I bought the bike 8 years ago despite a full rebuild.

I hope it works for you. Sounds like it will.

@@EfurdGarage how do you tell the difference between boiling in the float chambers and in the fuel line?

@@allanb52 usally in the line it can be fixed by using clothes pins or something similar to creat pressure in the line to keep it from turning to vapor. Alot of times with the bowls when you shut of an engine you can hear the fuel boiling in the carb.

Yea vans can creat alot of heat in the mid part. Cant really vent becuase it would go inside. The gasket should help alot. Ceramic exhaust headers or manifolds would keep heat down. In a van my experience has always been limited space and the confined space building heat.

@@EfurdGarage yeah it gets hot. The headers are actually just under floor level which helps. The plan is to duct some air in from the sides of the van. Its a 1 off custom job.

@@manfacilitymetalworks1296 that would help. Trying to duct air in would be beneficial. Either from the sides vented. Small puller fans. Or i even thought about running a small ac duct to it as odd as it seems 😆.

Your welcome, those issues can be a pain for sure

Think we got it with insulation wrap, got my gasket anyway an will be in soon @@EfurdGarage

with a 109 you can be 8-12 if i recall. 19-21 is going to be a looser lsa 114 ish

yea they do lol

Those with holes instead of the open area are best for street use on vehicles that don't often see higher RPMs, and give a better signal. Wise choice.

could be, carb heat soak and vapor lock will be 2 different things. if you are running headers always make sure your fuel lines are rerouted away from heat since headers are know to be closer to the frame and they are a thinner metal then manifolds so there is more chance for heat soak which is also why a mini starter is a must with headers. I take ti since you say "up the driveway" its a decent slope which vapor lock would stop or slow fuel from getting to the carb so an angle could cause it to stall from not having enough fuel in the bowls. Now carb heat soak will boil fuel out of the carb and can do that as well. After its up to temp pull the air cleaner and listen for boiling. If you dont have an insulator gasket you should regardless many engines came with them from the factory and they do help. If you have a clear fuel filter before the carb it can tell you alot as well such as if you have vapor lock or a weak pump the filter wont have as much gas as when you started it, if the filter is full then its heat soak

Hmmm now thats a tough one, kinda like an ignition wire got hot and has a bad spot in it. when a wire gets hot they can expand, and if there is a crack it can or break it can expand away loosing connection. not sure where it is on that one, seen it on the 73-87 c10s the fuseable link wire on the firewall can cause an issue like that. headlights are off battery source so they wouldnt be affected. fuel filter valve i think i have on a tdi engine. and a fuel valve to shut off fuel flow to help prevent theft

Should help for sure if not cure it 100%

Is it spread bore intake? And which model carb do you have?

I have that problem I just floorboard it when I go to start it after it’s warm

@@yamahaguy1732 I've seen instructions from old car manuals saying this exact way to start it when warm

dreamingcode yeah that was just they way they were back in the day everyone knew it because it was daily life you just have to allow more air into the mixture then give it a little rev to blow the rich mixture out

Thanks. Here is a lint to 2 of the gaskets both should work. www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-17847 www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9265. now if you are looking for a carb spacer then summit has them too. But those are the same gasket i sued but for the square bore carbs

@@EfurdGarage Thank you so much brother! Appreciate it!

i think you live a bit more up north so i can see that, where im at it gets hot as hell lol. but yea even when i run spacers obviously i run the thermal gasket, every bit helps lol

@@EfurdGarage NC is a little further north than Arkansas but not much. This is still the south and it gets super hot and humid in the summer here too.

lol you do get more winters im sure.

Thank you

my daily is mechanical pump, aluminum spacer (phenolic is better but i have had it for years on another vehicle so mo cost on this one) i am running ceramic headers on it as well but for the longest time just painted headers. I also moved the stock fuel lines years ago when i had to redo them and tucked them in the frame rail further away.

@@EfurdGarage I thought it was aluminun, I was impressed to hear you have no issues with primarily just, the thick gasket. You said some fuel line altering, running smooth and consistent, more power to ya!

@@manitou0123 one thing i have been putting off to trying is adding a fluid cooler to the fuel line, was going to do some experimenting, not so much to get the gas cold, but something to keep it from getting warmer on longer drives

Dito. on the heat insulating modification's. About to do that this week. This gasket Efurd is talking about sounds like another layer of help! Awesome.

i have always had look with them and i live in the hot part of the US.

Your the only one who has reviewed these gaskets and I’m really grateful for that. Just amazed they don’t get used more

@@toddavies1326 me too. They have always wokred i guess they are forgotten. I usally run a 1/2" spacer or 12mm/13mm or larger and nothing smaller

I have a wedge alloy spacer on my Holley - thickest end is getting on for an inch then was hoping to run insulator gasket on top - running out of height after that as my car is a beach buggy

I had a 351 windsor ,not much hood clearance,,the stock cleaner is built to enclose the carb,,,it traps heat,,,the air cleaner is metal,very hot,,,the edelbrock card would boil gas in the winter with snow on the ground,,,and the top removed,,,that's how I discovered the problem,,,,I was using electric fans,,,they don't come on much in wintet,,,so there's no air flow over the block when they don't run,,,so I put a stock fan on and left the fans stay on,,,or at least one fan,,,problem is the electrics don't move air past the radiator much..and it's hot air,,,so just casual racing heats up everything..the alcohol gas can vaporize at way under 140 degrees,,maybe as low as 98,,,so you have to go to fuel injection,,or plastic spacer and thermo quad type carb,,,holly has a new plastic carb,even coolant is 185 and up,,,no good clearance,no good vents,, lousy air flow,hot fuel lines,,,when I bought the car it had a water separator bolted to the radiator,,,that was always hot and starved the fuel pump as it pressurized the lines,,it also dumped gas into the engine,,it was a disaster,,,and this was @. 35 degrees,,at speed not so bad,,,enough cool gas to stop the boiling,,,but at idle,,or after racing,or if ac is cooling me,,,the car stop's and has to cool for 30 minutes,,online they sell carbs they know will boil easy,,,you pay 300,,,to 700 for nothing,,,pushing a t bird alone is not a option...

Edelbrock carbs suck, especially with pumps with high psi ratings as edelbrocks do not like do well over 4 psi. edelbrocks are also not good for economy or power. The 109 lsa will also use more fuel do to the over lap, which sounds great but it spends raw fuel through the exhaust. And honestly a 1406 600cfm is to small in my opinion for that cam even though those heads dont have the best flow

mini starter? how well does it crank? if it cranks over fast then it wouldnt think heat soak on starter. if you dont have the heat gasket for the carb then thats a good place to start, a phenolic spacer could help also. check your fuel likes and see how close to heat sources they are

i wont lie edelbrock carbs are the worst i have ever used. as far as that plate unless you have a gasket on both sides its no good, and easy to warp. i would just ditch the plate and thin gaskets and run a 9265 from edelbrock. heat insulator gasket, seals well and keeps heat from the carb

@@EfurdGarage would I need any special plates to run the 9265 gasket?

@@junkyardchronicles1289 no you can run that gasket alone. Nothing special needed

@@EfurdGarage cool. thanks bud!

No that heat insulator is a gasket.

summit racing has them for qjet FEL-1905 FEL-1908 and for squarebore EDL-9265 EDL-9266 SCE-352

Your welcome

Pc valve. Just a nicer looking one then normal

well im not sure the rest of your set up, gears, transmission, etc but i would think around 700cfm properly setup and tuned would be good. 3" exhaust is still a little big 2.5 would work better with that set up

@@EfurdGarage YEAH I HAVE A 700R4 WITH A SHIFT KIT IN IT ..AND MY GEARS IS 4.10 I GOT 35X12 15 TIRES ON MY BLAZER..ALSO I UP GRADED MY TORQUE ONVERTER 2000 TO 2400 STALL NOTHING REAL BIG ITS JUST THE NEXT STEP UP FROM THE STOCK//

Not all make them but a few. Edelbrock, holley, felpro, and sec. I would look through summit racing or other simular parrs suppliers. They measure about .25 or 1/4" on average

@@EfurdGarage I buy a lot of parts from Summit. I like Holley and Felpro. Thanks for the tips!

@@Grandsport12 your welcome. Thanks for watching

Air gap intakes do not work well. Aluminum is a heat sink and asborb heat very well. Done a test with 2 engines side by side air gap was only a few degrees cooler but the air gap had the advantage of a cowl hood, larger carb, and larger cam to help it.

@@EfurdGarage running it with my engine and it hasn't had a problem with engine and carb getting hot also not to forget running a electric fan reason is the clutch fan doesn't like my engine, it runs very well and never had any issues and it has a old school hood scoop

The phenolic. Those things do work great.

You can run a Wood spacer but i would recommend a phenolic spacer they last longer and help keep the heat off the carb

Efurd Garage , box just arrived from Summit today. I’ll go phenolic when this one takes a crap. One more quick question. I’m close to my motor rebuild finishing. On the fence about electric fuel pump. Which external electric pump you recommend?

@@WesternReloader really depends on the engine i try to stay mechanical all the way with carbs. They have a huge selection of mechanical that can feed some big carbs. But if your not running an edelbrock becuase they are sensitive to fuel pressure, holley makes some good pumps i have ran thag seem to hold up to high horse power applications.

Efurd Garage not a big carb. Summit 600 (autolite 4100 clone) 332 cubic inch. Much prefer mechanical

@@WesternReloader i like the carter muscle car series mechanical pumps they work well

summit racing will have them. felpro and edelbrock make them maybe a few others as well, they are usually a 1/4" thick. Sometimes you can get away with just unbolting the carb and sliding it under. sometimes you have to remove a few thing in order to get the carb up just depends on your setup

@@EfurdGarage thank you!

squarebore carbs www.summitracing.com/parts/sce-352 spreadbore carbs www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1908

yea those paper gaskets just suck

Well whats the set up? mechinical or electric pump? where are the lines. what type of distributor? intake, carb, exhaust, etc

sorry i have only 2 and im pretty attached to them.

@@EfurdGarage That silver one looks like the 69 i had and sold when i lived in vegas.

@@mikepierce4657 o that silver one is long gone. I think it went to maryland back in 2012. I miss that car myself it was my dads he had it for awhile

Your right so easy every gas station has it 😆.