6 Answers to Frequent Comments... #1- The screws I'm using in this video are #9 x 3” PowerPro interior screws. #2-I'm using screws for framing interior partitions. I am not advocating the use of screws for structural framing. Nails have more shear strength, and I used nails when framing this house addition. This video is about nothing more than a simple how-to technique for easily and accurately toenailing studs. #3-As mentioned early in this video, this same technique works for toenailing with nails. #4- The interior walls in this video can not be nailed together on the deck, then tipped up into position against a drywalled ceiling and still fit tightly. Thus, they are being built in place. #5-Yes, screws are more expensive than nails. No doubt about it. #6-Yes, screws are more time consuming to use than a nail gun, and professional framers do not use screws. But professional remodelers (which was my profession for nearly 25 years) do use them. They are a satisfying and valid option for framing walls in place. Thanks for watching this video. 👍❤

Good tip. You can also lay a 2x4 cut 14 1/2" against your previous stud so that it is 16'' on centre and repeat the process using no screws over and over. Or whatever your desired spacing happens to be. Just make sure you write on it so you don't grab the wrong piece of 2x4 lol.

As soon as he freehanded that 1-1/4" line perfectly, I knew I could trust this man with my life.

I discovered this very technique on my own (out of necessity) but more recently after reading old carpentry books I discovered that you can do the same thing with a flat head nail - just lie 2 flat head nails with the head on the line (tips away from the new stud) and give each a tap with the hammer so the head penetrates the timber - then you can push the new stud up against the nail heads and toe nail from the other side. It's easy to lift the nails out with you fingers. Works with nailer or hammer.

I framed houses more than forty years ago and we just jammed our boot against the base of the stud and drove the nails in from the other side. Very natural and very fast. No way they would let us take the time to be so accurate in those days. I would devise a quick-release clamp to go on the plate if I were using screws today but my construction days are long over. Nice video, you explained and illustrated well. I enjoyed it.

This is so helpful! We've been using this method to reframe all our exterior walls. The screws allow us to make corrections since we're not pros. You wouldn't believe the shoddy work we've uncovered! Thank you for the detailed instructions! 💖

I think tips like this are for guys like me who enjoy learning and trying different projects. Now I know I can tackle a small framing job with the tools I own. Thank you

Legend has it that he is still building this wall

that inch and a quarter free hand was super!

Awesome video for DIY enthusiasts who don't understand best practices. Thanks for this!

This is perfect! I’m new to DIY and just have a very small area to frame out. This has made me much less anxious about the toenail process. And I already have all the tools and screws I need.

I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this kzfaq.infoUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!

Instead of screwing 2 screws to hold the studs in place before putting toe screws in, I pre cut a 14 1/2” and a 13 3/4” 2x4 block and use them as reusable spacers. The first space I use 13 3/4” then the rest 14 1/2” block. I put the block in place put the stud against it, toe screw, remove then place in on the other side and repeat. I feel it’s faster this way and I don’t need to level all my studs just the first one.

I got down on myself yesterday because I was doing it all wrong so I'm glad I found your video. Im new to DIY so thank you

Thank you. I am a rookie DIYer and these tips are life saving.

Learning to be a carpenter, I was informed that proficiency in toenailing would be mine after driving 10,000 nails. I’m pretty good at it now.

We used to use hammers and nails. Simply position the stud, back it with your left foot so it can't move and drive in the nails.

Thank you, very informative. I have to add a few studs in a shower area and this will let me get them squared up nicely. Good video, showing all the important steps. I also can't help but wonder why "professional framers" are watching your video and then commenting negatively? It seems to be geared for lowly DIY'ers like me. Well done.

Thanks a lot Herrick. This helped me a ton. I never comment on a video but i am genuinely thankful for this tutorial. Thanks a lot again

I recently retired from doing this work my entire working life. I love watching you knowledgeable and competent carpenters and wood workers. One view and I subscribed.

Thank you for sharing this. I'm terrible with nails, so this was a perfect demonstration 🙏💫

I hammered the like button like he said, but now i need a new tablet...

Nicely done. I did learn some stuff here. The pre-drill has always been my favorite technique, as an amateur.

Great tip! I never would have thought about doing that. Thank you for the education.

Well sir I enjoy your precise placement and don't fault you for it. As a carpenter for close to 50years I've come to see great benefits of screwing my studs in remodeling. Anytime a customer makes a change it's easier to make happen. Although I don't get quite a precise as you in screw placement. I find that I can make minor adjustments to the line by over tighten or backing off slightly. Your clearly a good carpenter!

sweet video, learning to build with wood and making my first piece of furniture right now and this was super helpful

Amazing builder…I want to be like you when I grow up! I’m 66 now.

Thanks for the tips! Very useful when doing this kind of work over ones head! I always appreciate simple tips that work!

I just happen to be about to start building a stud wall, in 20 minutes time when I finish this coffee in fact. You have just made my life easier. Thank you!

Wife buys a lot of nuts & grated cheeses in plastic containers at big box stores. I use them to put different size screws in, label size on it. Grab the size you need & head to job sight. I buy screws from stores selling them in bulk to cut cost & never over-buy the expensive ones already boxed up.

Thank you for this! Very useful!

I admire the guy’s courage to post it. Idiots on here that think you would ever use this method in every application show the extent of their abilities. I’ve used this method a handful of times on remodel projects when the stud length varies drastically and you have to install your bottom and top plates first and then literally measure each individual stud to frame out your wall….also very handy if you’re building a pony wall in place and are dealing with short studs that don’t “wedge” in place on the top plate. It’s a simple concept that seems to have really stumped a lot of these KZfaq “experts”. Haha.

Piloting holes before driving in a screw is preferred when using kiln dried wood or when studs are dry (old stock that has fully dried). Most wood studs purchased from a supplier are still damp and is less likely to split when screws or nails are driven into them at ends. Using two wood shims for a stud that is too short is better since cardboard may compress over time and become loose again.

Wow I like your tricks. I used those 2-1/2 composite deck screws I had leftover to build an interior non-bearing wall. This was my first time using screws. Boy it was very strong passed inspection.

I'm learning DIY and found this really useful, Thanks👍

I like the Milwaukee bits with the DeWalt driver... lol :)

Thank you because I was struggling with trying to do a toe nail on the stud.

Wow! Great advice. Much appreciated!

My first time building a fake stud chimney breast. Two screws to brace… priceless! Good to also learn the cardboard trick for this project as been cutting too long ‘just in case ‘ and to take off 1mm at a time is killing me

Framing a house with screws will fail inspection as far as I know. Check your local building code. I suspect it has do with expansion, settling as well seasonal environmental factors. Screws brake were as nails twist and bend. If you've ever dismantled a wooden structure fastened with screws you will find a high percentage of them to be broken, were as broken nails are rarely encountered.

I just shoot the studs in place using a battery operated trim gun, Then follow up with the screws, it is so much faster! You should predrill with a countersink bit, it's the taper in the head of the screw that splits the wood!

Great tips - you are fabulous! Thank you for sharing!

For stretching a stud, i use layers of boxboard (cereal box). Won't compress like cardboard

Great tips. This will help me when I build some internal walls in my garage. Thanks.

EXCELLENT!!! Great tip!!

Thank you! 👍

Recently was building 2x4 construction shelves in my basement, i was using a small brad air nailer to attach my boards so i could check for level and tap them to bend the brads to make small adjustments. worked pretty good!

Thanks for the tips. Brilliant

Awesome video. Wondered about utilizing screws for toe screwing fo years. Now will be utilizing the info in my DIY projects not for stud work, but repairing my green house. Kudos for vid. New subscriber because of this vid. Looking forward to ur next one.

Thank you so very much for your valuable information! I am going to be framing in a chicken run with 2x4s this was so helpful! I was wondering how I was going to effectively attach my 2x4s using the toe mail method!

Awesome 👍! I love it. Thank you!

I like the way you sped up the second demonstration 😉

Very helpful, thank you!

I'll be danged. I am 53 years old, and you just made me measure my fingertips. I have an inch in my pointer, and 1 1/4 inch on my F you finger. I have been carrying these little measuring sticks around with me since the day I reached full growth, and I never knew it. NICE! This makes me ponder, though. Do Canadians have metric fingers?

Great video. Great tip for toe nailing. Makes to much sense, solves the problem of the stud shifting over a little. As far as nails go, I do not remember the last one I drove in with a hammer.

Thanks for the tips!

As demonstrated, I discovered screws are much easier to remove when something isn't right. Which happens frequently when you never finished a basement before, you keep watching youtube and coming up with new ideas, and the project spans so much time you forget what you were doing to start with.

Oh wow, this is such a great video and great trick that I've just learned. Thank you very much!

You gained a new subscriber today, I have become a DIY enthusiast and this video helped a great amount. Thank you!

Thank you for the “tip”very helpful .

Thanx for sharing!👍🏻

I toenailed all the studs in my wall during our renovation because it allowed me to adjust the studs to make them all flush across the surface. This way, the sheetrock is a lot flater and straight. It just makes it look better. This is just a tip to make your project look like a pro did it and not a DIYer. 😊 I'd also recommend getting a laser level as it will make this process a lot easier.

This is golden. Thank you.

Insightful and well presented. Thanks!

For framing I recommend nails. Nails have a stronger shear strength. For smaller projects or things being moved, like a shelving unit made from 2x4. I would use screws. Personally I would use the kregg system, but not hiding them is fine top. Screws have better holding power, so if something is moving or might get moved, I prefer a screw. For stationary objects I prefer a nail for its shear strength and rapid installation. There are times when this is not the case. I prefer to screw down a subfloor, mostly because I'm a flooring installer and find nail heads to often be slightly popping up, getting in the way of my pristine installation. The other times I use screws is if I just need a few anchors. It's faster for me to throw in some screws than setup air systems.

Have to say this, Before nail guns and screwing everything with a bat-op. I used to frame with a crew. The second week on the job I started doing this wih nails so the rafters woud set almost perfectly on the layout mark, that was 1970. And it still works today. lol

Excellent beginner technique.

Wow right off the bat I’ll be trying this to see how accurate it is. No rough framing around here

Thank you!!

Thank you very much for your info I really appreciate that much You have no idea how many two by fours they’re open on me and I learn a lot just by watching your video thank you very much and God bless you

Glad I finally figured out the secrets of wood stretching!

When I do it, it’s like calculating the angle of entry for space x. This guy makes it look easy.

another trick to keep the wood from splitting is after you've gotten the screw just started into the wood, reverse the drill and run it backwards a little bit while holding the screw in place. then just screw it in and it prevents the wood from splitting.

That's very useful, thanks

This helped me so much, thank you 🙏

This is way better than a nail gun. A nail gun it can kick the stud slightly out or off center. I've seen it happen many times. This trick keeps the stud centered, square, and plum. This makes it so you can get the fastener back out too. With a nail gun the nail that's not possible. If a remodel is done you have to cut the stud or underneath it.

Excellent video... Thanks!

I cut the board three times and it's still too short.

Great tips. Being not a carpenter this was great

About the split out when putting in a screw. If you burn in the screw, it won’t split. Set the screw in place, put the drill in reverse and on high run it backwards with pressure until the screw actually burns a spot on the wood, then flip the drill back to forward and drill in the screw. Most of the time it will not split.

A trick to stop the screw splitting the wood: set the drill on reverse and then backspin the screw for a half second to burn the wood. Then set the drill to forward and drive the screw. It really works.

Excellent educational video. Thank you..

You can use a piece of two by four with a single screw. When you unscrew the screw it stays in the block ready for the next stud. make a 7-inch piece cut with a chop saw, have the screw centered, about an inch and a quarter in on the opposite side of the stud line.

Building a floating bench in my mud room this really helped me with the supports

Great presentation-keep ‘‘em coming

excelent professional JOB!

Excellent!

Thank you!

here's a bonus tip click on settings go to playback speed click on 1.75 and Your 😁... i really appreciate You taking the time out to make this video Thank you

Thank you for this.

Thank you for your time Very good idea

So easy! God, I was turning it into a science with a Kreg jig to frame up some floating shelves and This. Is. Way. Easier!

Never use screws for rough framing especially on exterior walls or trusses. Nails have 10x more shear strength and can bend/flex without breaking. 15+ years trade experience here, 5 years being nothing but rough end carpentry.

Thank you, I had a hard time for long time 👍😊

Thanks for the tip.

Thanks a million.

A guy who makes his money framing would go broke doing it like this , even though I like this method. Air guns are for production...

Built a solid base for my chicken coop! 🦾 thanks for the advice!

Good stuff!

Brilliant, thanks