Thanks. With good bullet fit and a good smooth barrel and a hard strong cast bullet one should be able to avoid leading until velocity and pressures get quite high.

Yes it might be worth trying a few more with larger charges. Was your model 70 one that had been fired a lot before you got it?

Though the extreme spreads in velocity are concerning. Wonder if it wants magnum primers.

@@GunFunZS Experience with this powder leads me to believe it is close to IMR4350 in burn rate, so it might not get to it's "happy" pressure zone until velocity is in excess of what I want for cast bullets. Magnum primers might help, if I ever try this again I have a some old Magnum primers I could try.

It's both scarce and extremely expensive when found. The old Swedish ammo has close to seven pounds of powder in a case of ammo,

@@314299 I just scored on five lb of H4350 and eight lb of 4198. Each cost about 600$. I should be good for this summer.

Hi Dave - for some reason KZfaq puts your comments in to the "held for review" section so I'm sometimes late in seeing them and in replying. So sorry for the late reply. Yes, the rifle did indeed show a "lube star" at the muzzle, which I also understand means the lube was sufficuent and held up all the way to the muzzle. I've yet to have any load with the RCBS 30-18-SP or 30-165-SIL give any leading in this Remington. Sorry to hear you had an accident, hope you recover fully.

Thanks, glad to hear you found it useful.

That is a good question and I should have included that info in the video. The alloy is water quenched wheel weight metal. The bullet lube is home brew and consists mostly of beeswax & white lithium grease, with some old Lyman lube mixed in. Bullets were sized .309" with Hornady gas checks attached. Normally I would size larger but the RCBS mold drops bullets that are only .309" with that alloy.

I have gone after deer, but that is about it.

Cold could be a factor, also it is 70+ year old powder. I think the big issue is that the powder is quite slow burning so it might be difficult to get it to a decent working pressure while not exceeding the velocity limits of the cast bullet.

@@314299 so be similar to the 4831. You did in 3030 cast loads? I thought was 4831. In 308 cast ive done a few when i had my savage 110S .i used 2400, and tried 4895...both were promising with accuracy.

@@rodsvintagesxschannel.3095 From my testing and use the 8mm Swedish powder is very close in behavior to IMR4350. I did do some loads up for 30/30 with IMR4831 and it shot consistently.

The results were not terrible but were a long way from the best the rifle and bullet could achieve.

Alloy is water quenched wheel weight metal. The bullet lube is home brew and consists mostly of beeswax & white lithium grease, with some old Lyman lube mixed in. Bullets were sized .309" with Hornady gas checks attached. Normally I would size larger but the RCBS mold drops bullets that are only .309" with that alloy.

Yes, when powder gets quite old it will generally not burn as consistent as fresher stuff will.

Or it can become more powerful and somewhat dangerous. I used some powder that was about 10 years old for one of my .58 cal muzzleloaders. I was shooting a 785 Grain Shiloh Wadcutter Minnie Bullet. When I cooked off a round I nearly lost my shoulder. I'd say the recoil of my .58 went from the recoil of say a .300 WBY Mag to the recoil of a 600 Nitro. The older powder had become substantially more powerful. It gave me instant rotator cup and it took me 2 years to heal. Watch that old powder you store. Like TNT, it ages, and becomes either less effective, or vastly more effective. You can never tell which route it will take when it's aging. Load up gradually, working powder levels up like this channel is doing. Going right into a 120 grain charge of powder, that I had no idea of how it aged, was counter productive. I now start with just 60 grains in that muzzleloader, and work up with any powder I have stored for any period of time. I do the same thing with centrefire ammo I reload. Especially stuff I also cast the bullets and made the lube for myself. In firearms, always be overly careful. Baby steps with all things reloading and casting keep all your digits where they are supposed to be, and keeps you above ground.

You should be fine if you water quench your cast bullets. You'll get the necessary hardness you are looking for. Powder coating will help greatly with barrel fouling and also add to the hardness of the bullets you cast.

I started off using the Swedish 8mm powder in 7.62x57 Mauser, and got an idea of burning rate from that use. With a good idea of the burning rate I came up with a start load and went from there. So this is not a case of having published load data to work from, and is not something that everyone would be comfortable in doing.

@@314299 okay, very interesting. Did you just estimate the original burn rate based off of the velocity and powder charge? I'm planning to do the same with 7.62x54r bullets and powder into a .308.

@@Geep918 With my 7.92x57 work I started quite low and only loaded single rounds with progressively larger charges, running the whole string over the crono to get an idea of where to start when I loaded strings of five to test. Basically the initial single rounds loaded started with a "guesstimate" .

I have but I don't think I've posted video on the results. I've used it with jackted bullets in in 7.92x57mm Mauser and also in 7.62x51/.308.

@@314299 Similar accuracy results?

Yes, they were individually weighed.