Thanks again for the kind words. Do remember that you also need the Foredom to use it, so setup can be expensive. But once you've got it, its a great tool. I also plan to make another video on it with tips and tricks i have learnt. Thanks for watching. Dave

+Kathy Wildman Well I'm glad you found my video useful. I wanted to address all the knowledge gaps in all the previous videos, hence the close up shots of the blade and the left handed tips too. If you can understand how a tool works, you can understand how to use it correctly. Thank you for taking the time to comment, it's what encourages me to keep making videos. I have also forwarded your lovely comments to my friends at Pepe, who love to hear them. Thanks for watching. Dave.

Thanks. If you're going to get good results, safely, then you do need to understand how to use it properly. Thanks for watching. Dave.

Thanks Liz, I wasn't paid to make the video, and I do genuinely use this for making my own jump rings. At least you can make a more informed decision as to whether its right for you. Thanks for watching. Dave

A pricey set up with the foredom as well, but well worth it. Dave

Thank you. Yes it does make the process much simpler and faster. I do still saw by hand if I just want a couple. Remember you can get thicker saw blades, Using the finest blade isn't always the best option. ry to use the appropriate thickness for the wire you're cutting. If you get flush cutters, there is also technique where you can keep flipping the cutters over (cut a ring, trim the end of the coil then cut the next) and you can cut rings by hand with fairly perfect ends quite quickly. See the link, not my vid, but a good explanation. Dave kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jdJ0jc-X0tCqdKc.html

+jodicaryn Thanks for your lovely comments. I have forwarded them on to Pepe also, who love to hear from their customers. Some more Pepe videos coming soon, with some new updated tools. Thanks for watching. Dave.

Thank you. Glad you find them useful. Dave

Thanks. Dave

Hi Victor Thanks for that. Indeed the Dremel fortiflex does look like the foredom H30, So I did wonder if it would fit. So thanks for confirming that it doesn't. Good to know. Dave.

Yes a lot of fakes and copes out there. But in 2023 my Pepetools is still going strong and stil works perfectly (new saw blades of course) Dave.

@@CelticDreamsCoUk Thank you for your kind reply! My Pepe Tools Jumpring Tool will arrive in another week or so.. and I would love to ask you some Q's. I really want to start working my chain mai̇lle in Sterling Silver mostly using 16g & 18g, but I will also use some 20g. So what is the best temper for these to use on the Pepe Tool for the strongest, best quality Sterling jumprings? And would you recommend that I practise cutting with a cheaper material first? And if so, what material/temper should I practise with? I do value your expertise & advice - THANK YOU!! Kindest regards, J. Whiteoak 🇦🇺

@@CelticDreamsCoUk My Pepe Tools Jumpring Maker FINALLY arrived! But there's no lube, no instructions (thank you for your video!), and no wire-size guide (that's OK - I downloaded it from the Internet). So what can I use in place of the Pepe lube (petroleum jelly? aka Vaseline?) And what temper SS or gold-filled wire do you recommend for making the strongest, best quality jump-rings? I was thinking of ordering half-hard, but would it be too difficult to wrap around the mandrel? I very much appreciate your video and hope you can reply as your expert advice would be invaluable, thank you! You do beautiful Chain Mai̇lle.. I hope mine will be half as nice as yours ❤️ I'm just a beginner but I'm very determined. Also, is there a particular type or brand of tumbler that you would recommend? Thank you & have a great day! Kindest regards from Australia 🇦🇺❤️🇬🇧

Confusing email. You ordered what? Im not sure what you are asking me. The Pepe tools jump ring maker needs a foredom flex shaft to operate the saw. with one of the two hand pieces demonstrated. So yes, the Foredom will need power. I hope this makes sense. Dave.

I am going to make a "tips" video too. My best one is to put double sided tape inside the coil holder. this prevents the coil from moving and binding the saw when its being cut. Top Tip - Dave.

The "new" instruction manual (and others) are now written by me. Commissioned by Pepe. ; ) . Dave

Well spotted. the version 2 had a two part post. Nothing wrong with it at all, but the one piece, as you say is much more solid. Pepe keep tweaking small details on each production run, so their tools are constantly evolving. And lets face it, they're pretty good to start with. Dave

Thanks, the guys over at Pepe are aware of various blades, but opted for the thinner ones for precision. Note the JRM2 is really designed for jewellers using non ferrous metals. Although I do agree that I think there is a market for a more robust one, for the many armourers who make steel chain mail. Thanks for watching. Dave

I get asked this a lot, regarding the Persian cross. to 18g 1/4" rings, or 16g 5/16" rings. If you check my video on the Persian cross, you'll see how the large rings pass through the center points of four rings placed in a square (using the same wire). Hope this helps. Dave A few good resources here... theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=230

+Daniel Wright I use it quite a lot and its always worked perfectly. My friend has the older blue mark 1 version. Again very well used and never a problem. I do think that some people overload it. I spoke to one guy who tried to cut steel wire and melted the blade - well you will. Its also important to run it the correct way round and to cut in the right direction. Incorrect use could cause the blade to jam. But the saw will cut copper or silver quite easily (like butter) if used correctly and within its suggested tolerances. I wouldn't dismiss it. Check that you have set everything up correctly and have the genuine Pepe blade and lube. Ensure the blade is cutting towards you at the bottom as shown in my video close up, and is cutting into the silver (not away from it). its just a saw and so it used correctly it WILL work. Hope this help you in some way. Dave. if you've used it correctly and still have a problem then do get in touch with Pepe, they will be very interested to hear from you and discuss you experience. Its a family run company and they are every nice people. : ) Dave.

Celtic Dreams I've been having the same issue but I think it has to do with being left-handed. Thank you for showing the different set up for the blade - excellent instructions and I'm hoping to try again taking into consideration the direction of the blade. Cheers, Thea

Many solutions to making jump rings. I too have seen many methods. The main danger is that of using a saw blade uncovered in a flex shaft or Dremel. So (to me) the real selling point of the JRM2 is safety. Thanks for watching, and contributing. Dave

Glad it was helpful! Dave

Quite correct, If I only want one, for attaching a charm, I'll just wrap and saw one by hand. But for hundreds to make a necklace, then the JRM is invaluable. Thanks for watching. Dave

You're welcome. Thanks for watching. Dave

I'm sorry if that was not clear in my demonstration. At almost 400,000 views you are the first person to mention this. Yes the JRM needs a Foredom flex shaft. Which I do explain in the video at 6:30 along with suggested handpieces that are compatible. For those who don't already have a Foredom flex shaft, Pepetoos & Foredom now sell a complete kit, at a discounted price. See link. Dave. pepetools.com/collections/bench-tools-1/products/jump-ring-maker-jrm2?variant=31247081504900&aff=4

Thank you kindly! Dave

Thanks for taking the time to leave such a lovely comment. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and got something from it. As for your question, it's impossible to answer. But what i can say is this. With my first blade I made 6 or 7 byzantine bracelets, a large copper bracelet and several other tasks with it over the past year. The blade cut fine and consistently. I recently made my own square wire in the mill, which is very tough due to being work hardened and 1.5 mm square. This broke two blades, one after the other. So i was obviously pushing it with that. So definitely keep a couple of spare blades in stock. And as you say, be sensible with it. I've heard of many chain mailers trying to cut steel wire and wondering why the blades break. But used properly with precious metals and non ferrous, it will last for quite a while. I guess when it gets blunt that's when it will jam and break. Check out my video on the byzantine chain where i use it to make my rings. Dave. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/es1jetV0z5u0Y5s.html

Thank you. Enjoy!. Dave

You're welcome. Thanks for watching. Dave

Hi Teresa, I hope you are enjoying your new Jump Ring maker. Nice to hear from you again. Best Wishes, Dave

I agree. the other thing i get asked a lot is, if the JRM is suitable for steel rings. It isn't, the fine saw is intended for softer precious metals. So as you say this is aimed more at the jewellery market. Which for me, it's indispensable. Thanks for the input. Dave

I'm confident to say that the JRM2 is just as fast as any other method for the coils. Winding the coils using an electric drill or using the JRM2 is no different. If winding by hand with the JRM2 you can easily wind faster than your hand can accurately hold the wire. Where the JRM really saves the time is in the sawing, as you can cut a 3" coil in just about 4 seconds, wheres no one can saw by hand that fast and accurate no matter how good you are. One or two rings perhaps, but when you need hundreds for a chain mail item, then there is simply no contest. I have the coil winder permanently clamped to my bench and the saw attachment permanently fitted to a snap on handpiece. So there's virtually no setup time. I just wind all my coils, then saw them all in one go. It really depends on how many jump rings you make. if just a couple for attaching things, then yes make them by hand. if you are a hard core mailer making chain mail suits then there are more industrial system out there for making high volume jump rings. But for me, I can make hundreds of jump rings, in just a couple of minutes with perfect precision and accuracy, and they will all close neatly. So personally, it paid for itself in the first couple of bracelets I made. For me, its the best bargain in my workshop. Dave

You are welcome! Dave

Yes! .... My northern English accent. Thanks for watching. Dave.

Thanks for watching. Dave.

Thanks for watching. Dave

I used my first blade for almost a year, cutting just 1mm and 1.2mm annealed silver. recently I made my own 1.6 mm square wire from silver cast ingots using the rolling mill, which even after annealing was very hard. I coiled and cut this into jump rings, but lost three blades doing this. so for me, that is about the safe limit when using tough wire. Tips are as per my video. Ensure the blade is running before beginning the cut. Keep the blade lubricated. Change any blunt blade. Note too that there are two blade sizes. too small and it wont cut through, too big and it may cut through both sides of a small coil. So its important to use the appropriate size. I'd say aluminium and high carat gold could go larger. But copper or hard silver are usually best under 1.6 mm. Either way always keep spare blades handy. Hope this helps. Dave

Happy belated St. Patrick's Day! Thank you for your speedy reply. Much appreciated. Sounds like I really need to start with "dead soft" / annealed sterling silver wire in order for it to cut properly with the Pepe Tool. Then after, do you tumble the cut jump rings in steel shot to work harden them? I don't foresee a problem with the smaller id jump rings with warping or bending, but what about the larger id ones? Thanks for your help!

I tumble everything to work harden them. Its not as violent as you might think. I tumble 0.7mm wire earring hooks. they don't get mauled up by the tumbler. Its a vert subtle and gentle process of rubbing rather than bashing. I should explain at this point that i use a Lortone 3A rubber barrel which does NOT have internal vanes. A larger unit with vanes (which lift and drop the shot) may be a little harder on delicate items, but will produce much more work hardening. Hope this make sense. Dave

+Zuma Lilly Thanks for watching and for the lovely comments. Dave.

Terry Brown Hi Terry. Two things. Firstly check that the saw blade is rotating in the correct direction, or you don't have the foredom in reverse. If the rings are getting hot then the blade isn't cutting and you are getting excessive friction. The other thing I would say is that 18ga stainless steel wire is probably a bit tough for the fine saw blade. I'm not sure what the official ratings are, but I'm sure that's going to be too hard. Try some copper or silver rings, but before you do anything. check the condition of your blade. I suspect you may have burnt the teeth off, in which case you'll need a new blade. Its a great tool, but it does have a limit. let me know how you get on. Also Pepe are very nice if you contact them. I've just sent an email to my friend at Pepe to check the limits of what this can cut- I'll post the response here. Shout if you need any help. Kind regards Dave mail@celticdreams.co.uk

Celtic Dreams Just looking on M.A.I.L chain mail forum and another lady with the "exact" same problem cutting 18ga SS and the blade blunt after two rings.. Everyone is saying to her, you just cant cut 18ga stainless steel coils with that equipment, try silver or copper. So my initial thought seems to be correct. Hope this helps.

Celtic Dreams Just got a reply back from my friend at Pepe, and he agrees. 18ga stainless steel is just to tough for the Pepe blades. Dave.

Celtic Dreams Is there a blade you would recommend for me to use for stainless steel? Additionally I just coiled some 16 gauge copper wire and tried it. While making the cut it was smoother and did not stop the blade the 1-1/4 inch blade did not cut entirely through the coil and so still there is difficulty. Your advice is greatly appreciated.

Not a dumb question at all. The saw attaches to a Foredom Flex shaft (Pendant Motor) which the tool is designed for. (rather like an old fashioned dentists drill) The Flex shaft provides the power, which is controlled by a foot pedal. Hope this makes sense. Dave

I Usually leave them overnight. Bu an hour will be sufficient. I use steel shot, pins, water and burnishing powder- very important. See the video below. Dave. m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r752pZmjsbXcnac.html

Celtic Dreams Thank you Dave l will tumble my jump rings properly now. I received my dremel 8050 today thanks for your advice. Ann

Thanks for watching. Perhaps check out my Byzantine video, to see how I actually make that chain. Dave kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdN-hcWIyrGlg4E.html

A tumbler (or barrelling machine) is a small barrel that rotates like a cement mixer. The silver inside "tumbles" with steel shot and soap, and is cleaned. See the video link to see one in action. Dave kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r752pZmjsbXcnac.html

The mandrels are not aluminium, they are hardened steel. Aluminium would be too soft especially for the thinner ones. They are galvanised or plated to aid corrosion resistance. Stainless steel would be nice though ! Dave

Thanks Dave--I was confused by the high polish--that makes total sense.

Thanks for watching. There's lots of info on KZfaq now, so get stuck in and have a go. Dave.

Glad it was helpful! Dave

Hello. Its difficult to understand what you mean. But the coil should not move. So it sounds like the blade is turning in the wrong direction. The blade should cut "towards" the coil as you pull it towards you. and the blade actually cuts upwards (look again at the macro close up of the saw in the unit). If you flip the blade for left handed use, then remember to put the Foredom in reverse. Again, check that the blade is cutting towards you and upwards, with the teeth pointing upwards at the front cutting edge. Hope this helps. Dave

A very contentious subject. You've really poked the hornet's nest with that question. The JRM was designed and made by the guys at Pepetools. Yes, it was totally ripped off by a certain British company (who I will not name). How do I know this? because they sent me the original prototype 'copy' to test in secret. Which I refused to do, in disgust. - it even had a Pepetools saw blade in it! totally shameless! You may also observe the same "British company" makes a ring bender. and have recently changed the design of their rolling mills. Pepetools spend a fortune on research and testing, only to have all their tools ripped off by a certain other company. If you are in the USA then support your fellow Americans. Pepetools are made by a small family-run company, in Oklahoma. They are good people. Hence why despite being offered "absolutely everything", I flatly refuse to endorse the copies. Hope this answers your question. Dave pepetools.com/products/jump-ring-maker-jrm2?aff=4

Thanks for watching. Dave

They always have it, it's one of their signature tools. pepetools.com/collections/jump-ring-tools/products/jump-ring-maker-jrm2# Dave

Indeed, it's very easy - and fast. Dave

I use a tumbler. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r752pZmjsbXcnac.html . Dave

Buy direct from pepetools.com. Dave

Glad it was helpful! Dave

Ok two part question. Firstly your flex shaft should be fine. Its not about raw power. Think a bout your piercing saw, you dont need strength to cut. If its twisting up that means that the saw blade is binding and getting stuck. Usually that means you blade is blunt. Take it out and check it over with a magnifying loupe. When new they are fiercely sharp, like razor blades. if its getting blunt the teeth become rounded. Also check for a broken tooth. You only need 1, to cause the blade to lock up. Either way, get a new blade. Obviously, ensure its fitted the right way round, and aligned in the centre. Don't forget to add the burr life or pep lube to the top of the coil, this is important. But make sure the rest of the coil holder is clean, so avoid the rings slipping. Also note that there are two blade sizes, too small and it will struggle with the larger wire, too big and you can cut right though both sides of small coils. anneal your wire too, (perhaps even anneal the coils) as it can become very hard when coiling. As for Flex shafts. I am huge fan of Foredom. I have the SR which I think is 1/4 HP. but they also make the TX range which is high torque for wood carving etc. Always good investments. But your current one should be fine. Its the blade that cuts (or not) - simple as that. Hope this helps. Dave.

Do you mean a Rolling Mill? Dave kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eNmWfbyakq2VdGw.html

A loop of wire. thread them all on, and twist the end. Dave

Celtic Dreams thanks again.

The blade will "reach" but if using the larger blade (there are two sizes), the danger is cutting the coil completely in half. You are correct (in theory) about reducing the circumference. but this is very negligible. That's why the pepetools blade is so thin. Also any coil will have a certain amount of "spring back" making it fractionally larger than the mandrel. So the final result should still be pretty spot on. If you do decide to buy, remember to use the link below and you get a slight discount and i get a small commission too. ; ) Dave

@@CelticDreamsCoUk Thanks very much, it's great to get your thoughts on this. And thanks for making such an informative video!

Thank you. I will be making a video soon on how to make this exact chain. Thanks for watching. Dave.

The thing with very small coils is the saw blade. It comes with two sizes of blade. You want enough depth to cut the wire, but not too deep to cut the other side and slice your coils in half. If this is the case you can modify you JRM by adding a two strips of card / metal / plastic, to the top of the coil holder (where the long slot is) just to lift up the blade a fraction. That said, with such fine wire, you can get just as good results using fine pointed tin snips or scissors. Dave

Indeed. if you check out my Byzantine tutorial, I show this tools making the rings alongside the traditional method. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdN-hcWIyrGlg4E.html I am just one jewellery who uses this tool. Pepe have videos from other jewellers too and people using this tools in various projects. As for a competition, thats a great idea. Again Pepe have done this in the past with jewellers offering tools as prizes, which Pepe have supplied. Thanks for all the ideas. But Im not sure any of my videos could ever be "sexy" not at my age. Thanks for watching. Dave

No problem....The thing to note, as in my video is that your coil needs to fit into the coil holder but allow space for the blade to be inserted. all the mandrels are 4" long (10 cm). The larger ones have a step at the end and a wire hole, so the max coil is just over 3" (7.6cm) Which equates to the mark on the coil holder. The smaller mandrels don't have a step or wire hole, but these still need to be inserted into the chuck, so same as. 4" mandrels, 3" coils. if using 1mm wire, and making a full 76mm coil, then that's about 76 rings in one go. divide 76mm by the wire thickness to get an idea. Hope all this helps. Dave.

Thank you very much , your answer is very informative and really helped me

Thanks. If you haven't seen it, do check out the Byzantine video and see what I do with the jump rings and how I turn them into a bracelet. Dave kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdN-hcWIyrGlg4E.html

PepeTools are constantly improving and tweaking all their tools, So you may see some very slight changes. But the overall design and operation remains the same. Dave

You're very welcome. Thanks for such a lovely comment. Dave.

Pepe constantly improve and update their products, So do expect minor changes as time goes on. I believe they did make one with a black ABS plastic tray. There is also another model with a two part stand (the JRM 2.0). There will be variations around. but all are the same great quality. Hope this helps. Dave.

I know what you mean, I often use a cordless drill for speed. I don't believe they officially sell the bits separately apart from spare saw blades. But you can always ask them. They are nice guys and so may be able to sort you out a deal. see link. Dave info@pepetools.com

Celtic Dreams thank you so much for answering my comment, I’ll definitely try talking to them. I really admire how active you are in your comment section. Have a great day.

Hmm, not seen square ones. I have a feeling I've seen oval ones somewhere. No reason why you cant make your own for a specific job. Use a piece of wood, or plastic and wind by hand. Or round off the end inch with a file for fitting into the chuck. Dave.

Obviously I don't know where you are. But buy from a major jewellery supplier, either in the USA or in the UK. Avoid Chinese sellers on eBay knocking them out for a couple of dollars. Expect to pay around $200 USD. If its too cheap to be true, then its probably a cheap fake. Dave

I guess the limit would be slotting the wire through the hole in the mandrel or into the jaws of the chuck. Ive used 3mm wire, quite happily. Dave

Hi Chad, DO check out the rest of the comments below. The blade on the JRM, is designed for non ferrous metals. So it you are thinking about steel wire, then you need to think of a different way of cutting them. copper, brass, aluminium, silver & gold are fine. So it depends on the material you want to use. Dave.

If the blade broke quickly, then there are a few things to check. Ensure that it is properly seated on the mandrel and straight. Any wobble will cause a break. Ensure it is the right way around - even I’ve done this). And ensure your using the right size blade for the material you are cutting (note there are two blade sizes). Remember too to lubricate the blade and let it do the work. don’t force it or it will get hot, warp and break. Also remember it is designed for precious metals and similar (copper aluminium etc) Not for cutting hard steel wire. The very fine blade is designed for precision, not strength. I have had blades last a year. They do wear down and get blunt, but with care they won’t actually break. Hope this helps. Dave

@@CelticDreamsCoUk not the first time using those kinda thing we had another model bought from Rio Grande back in the 90s. The type of material that i was working on is pure 24k the link size was 1.9mm of diameter and yes i always used the lube for sawing. I'm not here to bash the product but i was surprised that blade just break of so easily - i used to cut 18k more the 2mm of diameter and it break me 1 time after 2 year or 3 . But maybe is just the blade . The design is better and heavy and different from the one we bought from Rio Grande . is lite and little bit small made all aluminium and you had screw it with a Allen key to tighten the ring.

And safer! I love it and use it a lot. Thanks for watching.Dave

Obviously ensure the saw is the correct way around and rotating in the right direction etc. But assuming all that’s correct…. Three top tips… Firstly, avoid having everything covered in lubricant or oil, especially the coil holder. It can’t hold the coil tightly if everything is slippery. Only the blade should be lubricated, nothing else. Second apply a strip of double sided tape along the grove in the coil holder, underneath the coil. This will add grip to prevent the coil from sipping. Third (Mega tip!), Use large “paper” sticky label over the coil and coil holder, tucking it in tightly on both sides and both ends. I use ¼ A4 postage labels. The coil should be completely covered by the paper label. So before you screw down the top plate, the coil should be firmly taped down. (remember it has the double-sided tape under it too) When you saw, the blade will cut through the paper label and the coil. Remove the cover, Thread a long piece of wire along the inside of the coil and pull out all the rings in one go. Twist the end of the wire and throw the rings in the tumbler all on one loop. Simple! Note the little bits at the end of the coils will stick to the label too ! For each coil use a new label and cover completely. Hope this all makes sense. Dave

@@CelticDreamsCoUk Thank you for your insight

Difficult to say. It depends on the material. Aluminium is easy and so you can go to the max that the blade will reach (probably a couple of mm). But hard steel should be avoided. Mine came with two different diameter blades, so naturally the larger blade will cut deeper. Dave

Thanks for the super fast response. I would be cutting sterling and gold-filled wire. I'll look for the larger blade.

Danke fürs Zuschauen. Dave

Thanks for watching. Dave

Pepetools.com. Dave

The Foredom SR series is recommended. You could also use the TX high power versions, but they are more expensive and not really necessary. You can of course use any other flax shaft system as long as you can attach the Foredom H30 handpiece. Note that you can get the Foredom H30 handpiece in snap on or slip joint fittings, so pretty much any flex shaft will work with it. Hope this helps. Dave

Yes. I made a full video on the Flex shaft. See below. Dave kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aqlyZs-DzZjHZ2g.html

Always the softer the better. Particularly when winding the coils, as hard wire can spring back a little, meaning your jump rings end up a little bigger than they should be. a real issue with chain mail where aspect ratios need to be accurate. Soft annealed wire will bend easier and will not spring back, giving a more accurate coil and precisely sized jump rings. You can always toughen the jump rings up later by running them in a tumbler (barrel polisher) with steel shot. Dave

You're terrific. Thanks for the quick and thorough response. I've learned SO much from your complete and well photographed videos. Keep 'em coming!

Thanks for watching. Dave

Hi Will, Peep design and make the tools, but they sell them through various jewellery tool suppliers around the world. They don't usually sell direct to the public single items as they tend to deal with larger wholesale orders from retailers. On their site they have a page to find a local dealer in your own country ( I don't know where you are). see link below. Failing that just drop them an email and they'll help you out. Here in the UK the JRM II is about £200 GBP and in the USA about the same $200 USD. pepetools.com/dealer-locator Thanks for wathcing. Dave.

Okay, I see. Thanks for the info.

Yes you can get it in the UK with various blades too. See the link below. Dave www.bettsmetalsales.com/c-JUMP-RING-MAKERS/?SelectMaterial=TOO

I'm only worried about having a US plug which comes with the motor and this not being able to work if you have UK plugs. Your video is great and very informative so thank you for posting!

Yes you need a foredom flex shaft with a H30 handpiece, for use with the saw attachment. That's really the whole point of the tool. Manually. would mean cutting the rings with a jewellers saw by hand, which makes the JRM2 a little pointless. Foredom make the SR flex shaft in either USA or UK versions (and others). Dave

Thanks so much for replying! So if I wanted to use this in the UK I’ll have to specifically buy the Foredom flex shaft UK version... unfortunately I can’t seem to find one online. Please advise where I could buy a UK version - I really appreciate your time & help! Thank you!

www.bettsmetalsales.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=foredom&vesbrand=19 Betts metals (now own Sutton tools) have a great range of fordeom flex shaft handpieces and accessories, here in the UK. They also sell Pepetools such as the jump ring maker. www.bettsmetalsales.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=pepe&vesbrand=26 Dave

Here in the UK I get mosty supplies from cooksongold.com, in the USA try Riogrande.com Dave

@@CelticDreamsCoUk Thank you!

Everything as you see it on the stand. The only thing extra is the flex shaft required to drive it. Specifically the H30 Handpiece comes with the foredom flex shaft. Although, Pepe & Foredom now do a combined Kit, which I belive is available from Riogrande.com. Dave

@@CelticDreamsCoUk thanks for replying x

Very Helpful product. Thanks for watching. Dave.

Its a great Item. I wouldn't be without it. Thanks for watching. Dave.

Contact Pepe Tools and they will help you directly. See link. Dave. info@pepetools.com

Of course, just use whatever you've got. knitting needles, drill bits, rods, anything. as long as it will fit in the chuck. remember to keep you coils short enough to fit in the coil cutter. Dave

Hi Tracy. I don't sell wire. I am a jeweller, I just sell my work. Also I am in England Uk not in the USA. However, if you are looking for sterling silver wire, try Rio Grande. They seem to be about the biggest jewellery supplier in the USA. see the link. Dave www.riogrande.com/product/sterling-silver-round-wire-dead-soft/100304gp

Thank you so very much! You have no idea how you have helped me! My search is over thank goodness! Many blessings to you and your Channel!

Riogrande is your first stop for anything you need in the USA. Dave

I clean the rings with a Lortone tumbler, which also helps to remove burrs and sharp edges. I dont have shipping to india, i am jeweller - I dont sell them. Check out pepetools for delivery prices. Dave pepetools.com/collections/bench-tools-1/products/jump-ring-maker-jrm2?aff=4

+Irene van Blommestein ....Hi. I haven't tried that but it looks like it should. The Dremel 9102 handpiece on the Fortiflex appears to be the same as the Foredom 30 handpiece. The only real consideration is that it has the same diameter to fit inside the saw cover sleeve. Hope this helps.

No I don't usually sell any of my tools. But this is the 2nd version of the Pepe jump ring maker. You may see the version1 around for sale, perhaps on eBay. Dave. pepetools.com/bench-tools/jump-ring-maker

+Irene van Blommestein .... Well you can certainly buy them from Sutton Tools in the UK, but postage might be expensive as they are heavy. Try checking out the dealer locator at the Pepe tools web site. Dave. pepetools.com/dealer-locator

Yes indeed. Tumble them. This will remove the burs and also work harden the rings. Dave

Thanks for watching. Dave

Not sure what you're asking? This Is the jump ring maker version 2 hence JRM2. I've never heard of an AK307 jump ring maker. If you can rephrase the question better, I may be able to answer. Dave

@@CelticDreamsCoUk Hi Dave - it's on the Foredom.net website. That's what they have called it. Perhaps it's exactly the same as JRM2, just a different name??

The real limiting factor is the depth of the large saw blade. as it goes through the slot. If the wire is too thick then the saw won't be able to cut cleanly through it. I have cut 1.5 mm square wire to make huge belcher chains. This works perfectly well, but it's probably getting towards the limit. Hope this helps. Dave

@@CelticDreamsCoUk That is large when I think about it. T y.

A popular question, usually from the hardcore chain mailers. The JRMII is really designed for jewellers, so the saw blades are rather like round razor blades, they are razor thin. This gives a superb clean cut and almost zero wastage, when used with precious and nonferrous metals. But steel and other ferrous alloys will be too tough for the fine blade and would destroy it instantly. it would get real costly, real quick. I have spoken to my friends at Pepe about perhaps offering a heavier duty blade. So far, the others we have tried haven't been successful. I'd also suggest that constant lubrication would be required for cutting heavy gauge steel rings. I have seen people do this on KZfaq with DIY Drills and coolant pumps. Hope this answers your question. Dave

@@CelticDreamsCoUk it does thank you. I do some jewelry work with heavier metals like steel. I'll keep using a hand saw for now

+dragonbone5000 Thank you. Dave.