Joseph. Thank you very much for the suporting words.

+John Baker Thank you for your nice words and encouragements. Luk

Thank you for the compliment. Automatisation is a must if you want your gasifer to run continiously. We (The DriZzleR team Pascal and I) aim ait making electricity and heat for our independant home. We have a new channel now and move some of the video's over next I will post there, maybe you want to take a look. kzfaq.info/love/_N-CGmzYwvCVo3HmchwiLg Thanks Luk

Dear David, Thank you for the nice and encouraging words!

NH Hbbyloggr Thank you for the compliment. Your remark is correct however you need to feed (DriZzle) very precise to keep the flaming pyrolises dominant. An auger feerder as I slowly begin to realise, is not precise enough.It sometimes by accicent pushes a bigger pile of chips into the gasifer, then it smokes and even make tar to slip trough.

It is me to thank you for commenting.

+Andre Parys Andre, dank voor het kijken. Ik heb net tekeningen gepost van een automatische houtskoolmaker op ons meertalig forum. Je kan registreren en ook in het nederlands schrijven. Hier is de link forum.thedrizzler.com/ je kan me daar altijd uitgebreider schrijven. Luk

jim white Jim, I have posted some video's where i show in detail, how to build a mini DriZzleR for experimenting and learning. The method of feeding is utmost important. Some people get it in a flash, others never gets the feeling, making just a mess, as the gentleman i am referring too in the video.

Luk ,thank you ,i will check these for sure,i am making kind of rocket stoves from old gas bottles ,ive made 13 to date and they seem to sell,i use a secondary burn/heat exchanger design ,very simple but clean burning is usually achieved in a bout 30 minutes once up to temp. my picture is the first i made like this ,a good load of wood can be fed,i started making gasifiers from baked bean tins ,then started welding up stoves ...i need to go back to the "MAIN PROJECT :)

Barry, Unfortunatly it was not a Troll, and the woodgas forum, I will not name because they want me, not to, But it is one of the biggest american forums specialised in woodgas. (Not the yahoo woodgas group) Yes I changed The pyrotouch. The previous works perfect for pellets because they spread, when falling. Chips tent to clump together and fall on one side. There then is too much raw fuel while on the opposite side a hollow burn comes up. So I now made one that turns and levels the flaming pyrolise bed evenly. The dificulty was that at the same time it turns it must also goes up to free the mikroswitch when just was drizzled. With two motors that could be done easy but i wanted only one. The new ^yrotouch is still far from perfect and I am working further on the improvement. luk

Dear Marc, A gasoline engine CAN run on ONLY woodgas. A diesel CAN NOT run on ONLY woodgas. However you can use woodgas in a diesel engine as boost fuel. In this way you can save diesel fuel. The procedure to run woodgas in a diesel goes as follows. The diesel engine has to be start up with diesel and runs on diesel in idle. The extra power is given by woodgas. So a Diesel runs then in dual fuel mode. I have never done this myself but here is an example of a video by somone actually running a diesel on woodgas kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n9J5eLGF0pvRpaM.html there are however some issues on lubrication and so on.

Thanks very Luk I will the videos that you have mentioned Another stupid question I couldn't find a video of your about the grid less How does the amber stay in the Drizzler and burn Because you have an hammer going up and down Is there a grid where the fire stay on ? Regards

@@marctorrades1760 IThe "hammer" is not realy a hammer. It is our device to touch and feel the level of the flaming pyrolise zone and thus acording that level fill in more feedstock. The grateless gasifier is now tested well to give us enough confidence. However controling the reduction zone needs some electroniks. Basicaly we use the well know by woodgassers but hated "packing"effect. Normaly one avoid packing by stirring or shaking the grate so the gasifier keeps open and breathable. We prepack the reduction to a certain density but just enough open to breath enough to suply the needed amount of gas. It is working at the edge of catastrophy. One cannot achieve this without some automatisation. I use an underpresure sensor to measure the vacuum for little fluctuations and some electroniks stir then very gently the reduction so it stays at the edge of just not beeing sucked away. The grateless gasifier so far is not yet tested with an engine connected. As you know we have two systems. One for daily production, (a traditional DriZzleR driving a Volkswagen Golf engine , and a test sytem where we try all sorts of odd experiments. The grateless is such an onconventional experiment. I have good hope to test the grateless with an engine when the winter is gone. I sure will then post a video, with succes or failure.

Thanks Luk

Hi Falcon, I use a special technique wich is a combination of controlled packing by an underpressure sensor in the reduction, by means of the Pyrotouch and a T tube, beeing the vertical the fall tube and the horizontal the reduction tube. If I have created a stable and lightly packed reduction then I guard this pre-packed reduction to keept it just enough breathing to produce enough needed gas. If the reduction gets the risk of Too much packing I gently stir it up with a auger like vise. Lots of people in Germany are now copying this thechnique together with the DriZzling method. For the moment i further developed a complete new hearth very promising design wich I am in the mids of testing. I will publish in due time some video's on this new type. Maybe you would like to subscribe and hit the bell so you will receive news on that video. Thanks for following my work

@@LukVanhauwaert subscribed my friend Videos at times dont always show everything but appreciate all your work you do.

Stephen, Thank you for the support. By underpressure i mean vacuum. Or pull from your engine or another devices to simulate tha vacuum engine, such as a fan, or ejector. I am using a vacuum blower. This is a real beast able to pull on my gasifier up to 60 milibars of vacuum. It could be even more but the Frequencycontrollers I use to regulate the revolutions of that beast and thus regulate how much it has to pull on my DriZzleR is limited to 4 amps. If I try to pull higher the electroniks are getting too hot and the frequencecontroller shuts off. Now the trick is to first measure how much your enginegenerator will pull. You caneith calculate that or measure it with a vacuum meter. To simulate my 5 Kw honda clone i need to set my vacuum blower at step 2.5. However the DriZzleR is very forgiving and you can pull wider on it than on an Imbert, your Gsifier still has to be more or less in relation to your engine. By just flaring without concern how much in real your engine will pull, you can suck much on your gasifier having the gasifer running real hot and thus produces a nice almost tarfree flare but if yoy then switch to your engine that pulls much less the temperature in your gasifer will drop dramaticaly and the results could be catastrophy. Also your feedstock can play a role. Fuel such as pellets, smaller chips, bigger chips can all have a differnt pull. Yesterday I tested very little chips, the dirt I sort out with my patato sorter (have you seen that video, My channel where all my video's are is simply "Luk Vanhauwaert" ) And with this waisted chips I must go real low in vacuumpull, down to step 2, with bigger chips I can go up to pull 5. (which is the pull of a car engine) Of course by lower pull the gas has less quality because too low temperature in My Drizzler. How bad the gas is and if I can still filter it I still must test. You must know I am not a Gasifier Guru. Those are the people on forums that have all the answers but never show a build. I myself must gather all my knowledge the hard way. Testing...Testing...testing. I post all my results, if yoy subscribe then you will automaticaly warned of new video"s; Luk www.thedrizzler.org

Luk Vanhauwaert I have subscribed to your channel and have watched all your videos multiple times to learn from your experiences. I don't consider you a guru, as you say, but you are giving us some good stuff to feed off. I tried your open top approach, but have gone back and turned it into an Imbert. I planned it so I could have it both ways without to much modification. My concerns were heat and gas loss out of the open top and I have a feeling the open top is more fuel hungry than the Imbert. I did get my open top to flare in the end with an ejector as the vacuum source. I'm getting some nice flares now it is an Imbert too. Now trying to get a motor running. Just hit a snag there. The engine I chose to run doesn't seem to want to have anything to do with wood gas. It is a 2 cylinder Wisconson. Made in the USA. Must be about 15-20HP. It's connected to a 250amp welder generator. Can't wait to try it on a different engine. The first engine I tried, I set it up so that all the air flow for the engine had to come through the gasifier. This meant that I could get an idea of what the engine would draw. The engine was running on petrol and the gasifier was not alight. It showed a water column on my manometer of about 7 inches at a reasonable RPM. That's about 17.5 millibar. Question. How many millibars are you pulling at step 2.5. Thanks for the Quick reply. Do these comments come to you on some sort of mobile device. Just wondering how you saw it so quickly.

Stephen Kennington In woodgasification, there are more way's to skin the cat, as mike La Rose use to say. The first thing one must do, is consider the aplication. In my case I want to energise and heat my home with the same comfort as having natural gas. So the imbert design with it's run, refill, run refill aproach, felled off. I want a bunker full of chips and have peace for one month. That is why i went the open top road. With the DriZzle method, that I invented, I found a way around the nasty tar production, open tops are famous of. I do not know if the open top is fuel hungry. I even would say the opposite because in our pellets based system that Pascal runs we managed to produce, with a 1.6 litres VW engine, 1 Kw on 750 gramms pelets. That engine was run on an underpressure of 50millibar. My 2.5 position is about 20 milibar. Even that is too much for my 5.5 Kw honda clone, so I must redesign my gasifier. Make it less produce gas. Hard to say from here why that Wisconson did not wanted to run. And yes indeed I get a warning if someone posts. thank you for subscribing. Luk

mazdalorean Joe, thanks. Luk

***** Steve,I can not find your reaction