Excellent! Glad to hear you found it helpful!

You are so right!

Thank you! To play really well, you need to have a whole bag full of tools for various shots. Eventually you learn which tool works best for which shots. I never used fractional aiming until just a few years ago, after coming up with Poolology, and I had no intention of sharing it back then or writing a book. I just thought it was a great way to handle certain shots where I lacked consistency. It helped so much that I realized it could a lot of players could benefit from it, could develop a better eye/feel for recognizing shots and pocketing balls more consistently. I bet you're exicted for Stan Shuffett's CTE book to be available! It should be a thorough book. He is very good instructor with a ton of knowledge.

@@Poolology101 ?M

Thanks for the compliments! I truly appreciate it.

What does the book called please?

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Hi!

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Not sure how I missed this!! Thanks for the email and bringing it to my attention. I explain at the 2:50 mark why it's a little different. Most of these object balls, if using the Poolology values, are positioned higher than 40. The very center of the table, center spot, is 45.

Poolology ok. I get that. But I thought the object ball at around 12 minute mark was based on the 40 Position Line Center pocket to center pocket since you were aimed at the end rail. I thought that’s what you said earlier in the video if you were aimed at the short rail the 40 position could be middle pocket to middle pocket. So an object ball in the middle of the table only works as a position value of 40 if you’re lined up at the center diamond on end rail? Otherwise you use the 45/46 OB value? I’ve been using this for a couple years now but there’s always a few shots I have trouble with so I just wanna make sure I understand what you’re saying in this video. Anyway keep the videos coming I love all of them

If I were to use Poolology numbers for those 3/8 shots around the 12min mark, the OB position would be about 44. The perfect 1/2 ball alignment value would be 22, and the 3/8 would be around 27 to 28 (where that piece of chalk is on the rail). Using 20 (center diamond) as a halfball alignment value just slightly overcuts the ob, but not enough to miss the shot. An ob dead in the center of the table is around 42 or 43. And the cb-ob alignment could be anywhere within about an inch and a half from the middle diamond (around 19 to 21) and a halfball aim will work. My pupose for making this video was to show players that don't have the Poolology book (or players that aren't interested in using such a number style system) how they can use the end rail diamonds to pocket center table shots. It's not Poolology, but do to the fact that the pockets are twice as wide as the balls, either way works.

Well, that's a tough question. The 1st book (Poolology) is an aiming system that some say is complicated. It's best in a printed book form. The 2nd book (Playing to Win) is mainly about the mental and strategic parts of playing winning pool. The 1st book is probably best for beginners, because the 2nd book contains a lot of information to help more experienced players develop winning habits.

😆 It's amazing how often I find myself setting up a halfball shot with ball in hand, mainly when I have to play position for the next shot. Controlling the cb from a halfball hit is really easy. It's a great angle to work with!

@@Poolology101 If you get some time, can you align 20 straight shots and 20 half-ball shots with a position value of 40 and the CB located on the break line and tell me which one has the higher pocketing probability for you? I just tried the Poololgy system for the first time; got about 50% in, but I guess I am not yet used to aim exactly at the edge. Will keep practising.

I think it is. There are a few Amazon reviews where players said it looked confusing at first glance, but once they started reading they found that the book explains the system very well and makes it easy to understand. If all someone does is look at the diagrams, and doesn't bother reading any of the words, it might seem pretty difficult to understand.

Cloth is not a significant variable, neither is humidity unless it's really high. But I agree, practice is the key. Practicing something that works, however, is much more effective than practicing inconsistent trial and error using old-school guesswork. Traditional fractional aiming involves thousands of shots, countless hours of trial and error, before a player finally begins to recognize certain shots. What I am showing here, and what is in the Poolology book, is not trial and error, not guesswork. This allows players to improve at a much fast rate by immediately starting out with knowing where to aim instead of guessing where to aim. But I understand it's not for everyone.

Poolology I’ve be playing for over 60 years. I use fractional aiming only on shots I can cinch. Otherwise I use visualization. I visualize the movement of the cue ball and the impact it has on the object ball. In other words the object balls movement on its axis toward the target based upon the angle of the shot and how and where I make contact with the cue ball. I learned to do this on the golf course and applied it to pool. It’s almost like you are willing the ball to go in the pocket. I don’t disclaim you approach must I also think you can become too mechanical and can’t force yourself to make adjustments.

@@bilabong1946 I understand completely. I've been playing 37 years. I was asked a few years back, "How do you aim?" I didn't have a helpful answer. It was pretty much the same thing you just wrote....I said "I don't know, I just see the shots and shoot them." But that doesn't help anyone. Telling an aspiring player to just look at where they think the cb needs to be and then shoot it, and then repeat this several thousand times for a few years and eventually you might finally be good at it.... well, that is not much help. So I came up with a better way to get a feel or eye for recognizing where the cb needs to be. A way that reduces learning time by eliminating much of the guesswork and trial and error that we traditional had to sort through in order to learn or improve. Practice is still #1. But quality practice. Working with what you know, practicing things you know, not things that involve guesswork, makes for a much smoother and more direct path to consistency.

Poolology I agree with new players. They have a big advantage as beginners today. In the late 50’s no one shared their “secrets”. Then players/instructors began writing books that provided a lot of good information particularly with regards to banking.

@@bilabong1946 yeah.... it's the old school mentality of gamblers, which I admit I had for years. You learn something new, something that gives you an edge over other players, a little piece of knowledge that'll give you a better chance of winning other people's money. Sharing that piece of information seemed to counter any advantage. But I like playing players who are good and knowledgeable. The competition is better, which improves performance. So I think when a stronger player shares or presents their "secrets" or acquired knowledge, it helps everyone improve, including the stronger player. It all comes down to who works the most on their game, not so much who knows more.

It works very well from at least a foot away from the ob. I explain it thoroughly in the Poolology system (the book on fractional aiming). The shot angle shifts slightly as the distance between the cb and ob increases. A halfball hit always produces a 30° cut, but the closer the cb is to the ob the more that 30° angle becomes too thick to hit the pocket. And at farther distances the shift becomes thinner at the pocket, but far less extreme. And actually a halfball hit produces about a 28° shot angle with a normal amount of throw. So test it out... setup a halfball shot with 25" between the cb and ob. Then move the cb back (along the centerline of the balls) until there's 50" between them. Aiming for the same halfball aim from this 50" distance, when compared to the 25" distance, makes about a 1.3° difference in the outcome of the shot. If it's a cut shot to the left, this means the 50" shot will be a slight overcut (1.3°) compared to the 25" shot. Regardless, it's just a learning technique that uses fractional references to help train the eyes for aiming, so that players eventually just recognize where to aim when they look at the shot, the cb-ob relationship to the pocket. Most players have the common sense to recognize that when the cb is really close to the ob it has to aimed thinner. But the system works well beyond a foot away, and it's most accurate with a distance of 20 to 40 inches between cb and ob. Closer than that and the shot begins to track thick at the pocket. Farther away it tracks a little thinner at the pocket. But it's really a non-issue except in rare positions (shooting from the end rail or shooting from just a few inches away from the ob). On those shots, most players can figure out how to adjust.