Cervin Cervino Matterhorn Lion Ridge South-West Ridge Breuil Cervinia mountaineering mountain

Рет қаралды 452,649

Күн бұрын

September 2015, mountaineering, mountain... Cervin, Cervino, Matterhorn... South-West Ridge, Lion Ridge... Pennine Alps... Breuil-Cervinia, Col du Lion, Refuge Carrel, Pic Tindall, return summit ... Thanks to Paul Millet and Baptiste Galli...
150 years ago... On July 10, 1865, mountaineer Edward Whymper met Valtournain Jean-Antoine Carrel, an Italian guide who also dreamed of making the first ascent but via the Italian ridge, the two men having already attempted his ascent, without success. Wymper wants to hire Carrel but the latter refuses because he is already involved in this project with the Alpine club. On July 12, Wymper noticed that Carrel's party had already started the ascent, so he upset his plans and decided to attempt his from Zermatt, the Swiss side of the Matterhorn, via the Hörnli ridge (ridge northeast) which is reputed to be more difficult but which will turn out to be easier in the end. He then formed his party with Lord Francis Douglas (a young English aristocrat who financed the expedition), Peter Taugwalder son and Peter Taugwalder father, peasants who supplemented their income by playing guides. Arriving at the Hotel du Mont-Rose, they meet the Reverend Charles Hudson and his young and very inexperienced companion Douglas Robert Hadow who have hired the Chamonix guide Michel Croz (renowned for his sense of the itinerary) for them too. attempt this first ascent. The two British parties then decided to join forces to try to climb the Hörnli ridge together and set off from Zermatt on July 13 for the formidable summit. On July 14, the rope of seven men reached the summit around 1:40 p.m., Wymper and Croz having separated on the last slope to arrive first and second...
On July 17, 1865, barely three days after the first ascent, the Italian team led by Jean-Antoine Carrel, including Jean-Baptiste Bich, Abbé Amé Gorret and Jean-Augustin Meynet, made the first ascent of the Matterhorn by the Lion ridge (southwest ridge), more difficult than the Hörnli ridge...
- 1st ascent: July 17, 1865 - Jean Baptiste Bich, Jean Antoine Carrel.
- 1st winter: March 16, 1882 - Baptiste, Jean-Antoine and Louis Carrel, Vittorio Sella.
- 1st winter solo: 24-25 December 1936 - Guisto Gervasutti.
- 650 meter high mountain route with a few passages of 4. fixed ropes in place.
00:00 Approach. Orionde Refuge. Lion Pass.
01:59 Col du Lion refuge Carrel first fixed ropes.
04:41 Carrel Refuge.
05:40 Departure from the Carrel refuge, fixed ropes.
06:55 Sunrise under Lion's Ridge.
08:50 On the Lion's Ridge. Mixed below Pic Tindall.
10:40 Pic Tindall, l'Enjambé, Col Félicité.
1:25 p.m. above Tindall Peak.
15:15 The first Pirovano strings and Jordan scales.
18:25 Arrival at the top of the Matterhorn.
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Пікірлер: 117

@marknh3312 4 жыл бұрын

...perfect for watching during the COVID-19 “stay at home!” Absolutely amazing!

@majestic8628 4 жыл бұрын

Merci à toute l'équipe et surtout au cameraman pour ces belles images

@mauroargalia9172 3 жыл бұрын

Provai da ragazzo i ramponi era impossibile camminare in pianura a guardare voi ragazzi con una disinvoltura come dei ballerini GRANDI Bellissimo Video e immagini da Brividi

@edmartinezdj9034 7 жыл бұрын

Also imagine this climb whithout all the artificial help instaled... ropes,chains stairs... specially the last wall to the summit... then you know how good Mr. Carrel Really was and how much of an hero this climb made him

@Kestrel_1 4 жыл бұрын

Jean-Antoine Carrel was a giant, a Titan. Imagine the quality of his gear and its weight. He had to force the route and get his less-skilled companions up and down safely with ropes and techniques that we would regard as suicidal. He climbed again with Whymper, after the Cervino-Matterhorn ascents, and went to the Andes with him. In 1891, aged 62, Carrel guided a party off the mountain in bad weather, led them onto safe ground, sat down and died. His memorial cross marks the spot. The family names, Carrel, Bich, Gorret and Meynet, dominate the Valtournenche - on shops, restaurants, hotels and war memorials. The father or uncle of J-B Bich was Mayor of Aosta and a Baron; his descendant, Marcel Bich, was a founder of the Bic company.

@user-ju9hg9er8w 4 жыл бұрын

@@Kestrel_1 , the true hero of the cervino, was Carrel, not Wymper

@michel.b5752 3 жыл бұрын

@Ed MartinezDJ there are a lot of climbers who went to the summit of Cervino, without all the gear.

@MrPSRS750 4 жыл бұрын

Great video!!!! Amazing experience!! Thanks a lot to share this amazing experience and video!!!! FANTASTIC!!!! Congratulations!!!!!

@enricopedroni102 3 жыл бұрын

Bravi bella progressione con dimostrazione di grande sicurezza e anche belle immagini complimenti

@kiereluurs1243 4 жыл бұрын

Some hut approach! These videos are so good to get a real sense of a climb.

@edmartinezdj9034 7 жыл бұрын

Forget it, all the last part of the climb, while not physical or really difficult its amazingly exposed and terrifying. With strong winds and or rain it would be hell on earth. Big thumbs up to Jean Antoine Carrel that opened this route 150 years ago... balls of steel. And big thumbs up to you guys tha also did it, and even filmed it for us to fantasize about. PD: Hornli Route its a breeze compared to this. The only danger there is that its confusing to find the good way, probably because Guides don't mark it properly to keep their business going.This one on the other hand feels more obvious but... demands skills both tecnical and phisycal

@cockneybuddhist4713 2 жыл бұрын

I know your comment was 5 years ago but thanks! Yep there's absolutely no way I could endure that type of exposure and I admire the people that can. I will have to do with (hopefully hiking to Hornli hutte, if that is possible for a 68 year old :-)

@CuteFoksie 4 жыл бұрын

Excellent video! I loved that the route was fipmed all the way. Gives you insight of what to expect. Thanks!

@yogeshbisht550 4 жыл бұрын

iam already in trip of your shots n thanks for real music it gives another vibe

@ParaglidingChronicles 4 жыл бұрын

even with alot of support like rope, stairs, etc ..its still a big deal for many of us. Good work guys !!

@sleeve51 8 жыл бұрын

Well done guys! I really appreciate the fact that there is little talk in this video and keeping it visual. The scenery is magnificent. Thanks for posting this gem.

@yolandacantu1632 7 жыл бұрын

Steven Conrad

@alexandreelleuch5367 4 жыл бұрын

Magnifique !

@gabornyers7091 8 жыл бұрын

Well done guys!Good job!

@simonem93 3 жыл бұрын

bravo!

@idn 8 жыл бұрын

Lovely videos! Keep it up!

@Angelo_Botta 8 жыл бұрын

Super vidéo !

@maritia4577 8 жыл бұрын

Magnifique, splendide ... que dire d'autre!

@fredericgouttefangeas6294 4 жыл бұрын

Vos images parlent d elles même. Ma prochaine course😉, bravo en tout cas. Ça motive !

@thomascovenantwhitegoldwie113 Жыл бұрын

I loved watching this, but I could never do it. My palms were sweating!

@tvmountain Жыл бұрын

merci de votre message

@patdunphy4714 2 жыл бұрын

I love this mountain and have climbed it 5 times. Perfect

@tvmountain 2 жыл бұрын

merci de votre message

@CompteYoutube271 4 жыл бұрын

j'ai ressenti un grand moment de solitude en visionnant cette vidéo.. o_o

@alcinooc Жыл бұрын

Great, thank you for posting!

@tvmountain Жыл бұрын

merci de votre message

@sergep5563 4 жыл бұрын

Terrificante, spaventoso! Non so come abbiate fatto a scendere

@Bongo40 14 күн бұрын

L'arête du Lion m'a paru plus facile quand j'ai vu Kilian Jornet monter à toute vitesse par les cordes et les cables. Quant à la descente il m'a foutu le vertige, la moindre glissade et c'était foutu pour lui. Belle arête et joli nom.

@tvmountain 14 күн бұрын

Cela reste de l'alpinisme malgré tout

@francoisnova1007 8 жыл бұрын

MAGIQUE !!!

@PetulaGuimaraes 7 жыл бұрын

Wow, malade! Did you guys film anything going down? It was all I could think about: how does one goes down!!

@edmartinezdj9034 3 жыл бұрын

From the other side...

@luisflosi3699 4 жыл бұрын

exelenteeeeee desde Argentina

@aGer669 3 жыл бұрын

Vous etes des Grands Malades...😉👌👍👍👍

@tvmountain 2 жыл бұрын

non tout va bien

@mikemarcott4888 4 жыл бұрын

Yes sir great climb there are some very very sharp spines there

@sogseal8600 2 жыл бұрын

this is a climb where physical training is also really needed. the true one. hours of technical ascent even with increasing altitude. here you have to be hardened to fatigue.

@tvmountain 2 жыл бұрын

merci de votre message

@trevorevans7101 4 жыл бұрын

A little commentary and detail at the start would have been great. Great filming and editing. Loved it.

@codghostshs3967 7 жыл бұрын

moi je dis les premier qui y sont monter quasiment sans assurage et moyen pour s aider avec du matos moins performant c était les meilleurs au monde

@user-ju9hg9er8w 4 жыл бұрын

He estado dos veces arriba,,,,¿ habrá una tercera ? muy bonito el video

@walterpravicek4731 4 жыл бұрын

Blizu Mont Blanca sem bil v službi.Krasni kraji,zelo mrzle zime.Dolge gate(kot jih imajo slovenski muzikantje izpod "lederhozen"

@therealbmf9604 4 жыл бұрын

I would love to do this. Really enjoyed the video.

@robertogreppi6029 3 жыл бұрын

Molto bello emozionante a vedere inquadrature che fanno vedere le difficoltà della salita Bello

@mxgddss 5 жыл бұрын

take a break of studying and im with you in the mountains

@janplexy 4 жыл бұрын

RESPECT !!!

@damianogasparini9636 4 жыл бұрын

Bravi!

@leafuller3153 3 жыл бұрын

Unbelievable - are they nuts ? They have to go back !

@mauricior8550 4 жыл бұрын

This route was converted into a Via Ferrata?

@YnseSchaap 4 жыл бұрын

There is no greater feeling 😁

@jeanarchibald3842 4 жыл бұрын

Il ne faut pas avoir le vertige!

@WhereToNextDad 4 жыл бұрын

cool video

@thierrygelibert3624 3 жыл бұрын

Excellent , j'ai même eu peur .

@tvmountain 3 жыл бұрын

merci

@LondonDada 4 жыл бұрын

That's what you call serious exposure. Mountain goat head needed here!

@filosofando89 4 жыл бұрын

¡qué valientes!

@TheFastphill 4 жыл бұрын

it must be strange yarding up the big rope

@SébastienCallens 2 жыл бұрын

Top

@tvmountain 2 жыл бұрын

merci

@spacenaglfar 4 жыл бұрын

1:45 guys why you without helmets? ☹️

@mikeborelli8800 7 жыл бұрын

so let's say the front guy at 9:08 (and on any very narrow precipice on any of the videos on KZfaq, especially with exposed rock) falls to his left, down the ridge and not in control enough to self-arrest; he's already let go of the same bit of rope he's carrying (maybe 15 meters worth), and now the second person must at once jump/fall to his own right and hope to arrest the fall with his counter-weight and maybe using his axe too. Is this actually a potential scenario in simu-climbing? Because if the answer is yes, I'd rather take longer and move one man at a time, or just unrope and don't fall.

@edmartinezdj9034 7 жыл бұрын

Its a matter of trust on your companions skills. But yes at times is better one man at a time, but this guys normally seem quite composed to me. I only saw them really flinch on the nordwand videos where you can see that they are actually climbing for all they are worth to keep his lives

@edm1585 8 жыл бұрын

Bufff, vaya huevos. No lo veo fácil ni yendo de segundo.

@TheWhitford73 4 жыл бұрын

Balls of steel.

@gaellemasson3176 6 жыл бұрын

Très bel exploit! c'est bien dommage par contre qu'on ne voit pas la descente

@ayoroschevalier1485 Жыл бұрын

Heuuuu, la voie était déjà toute tracée. Aucun exploit dans ce qu'on a vu.

@user-ju9hg9er8w 3 жыл бұрын

El casco lo llevais de adorno ??

@marcosmondragon5145 5 жыл бұрын

Tres bon video! Combien ça coute monter???

@fnanq491 4 жыл бұрын

Marcos Mondragon quelques années d’apprentissage et du savoir-faire 😉

@gshaw23 4 жыл бұрын

Amazing footage! at 17 minutes, wooden ladder rungs and crampons, not a good mix!!

@user-lw6pi9nv9b 4 жыл бұрын

いつも思うですけど、山は下山が怖いのでその画像が欲しいです❗

@arturohernandezrodriguez3207 4 жыл бұрын

Las montañas has sido destruidas por el hombre

@ALEX-qo8ix 4 жыл бұрын

Le casque c'est la tête qu'il faut le mettre pas accroché au sac à dos.

@AnitaNita777 4 жыл бұрын

What month and day was that?

@FranFerioli 4 жыл бұрын

It's the Matterhorn or in Italian: Cervino. This route is the Lion Ridge. The South West route from the Italian side of the mountain.

@massimoboscaini 3 жыл бұрын

@@FranFerioli Ha chiesto che mese e che giorno è.

@FranFerioli 3 жыл бұрын

@@massimoboscaini E io che ho capito una cosa completamente diversa : ) (pero' che giorno e' una domanda strana...).

@1946jcb 2 жыл бұрын

Une pensée pour les vrais alpinistes, les précurseurs, les héros, ...désormais... pourquoi pas un ascenseur ??

@agostinorappazzo6705 3 жыл бұрын

L'année dernière j'ai escaladé la Dent d'Hérens par l'arête Tiefenmatten. J'aurais une question: combien différent est-il de monter le Cervin? Est-il plus difficile, exposé, ou de moins? J'aurais l'intention d'y aller cette année (je suis déjà arrivé jusqu'au bivouac Carrel une foie...)

@tvmountain 3 жыл бұрын

bonjour, je n'ai jamais fait la Dent d Hérens du coup je ne sais pas

@laurentroche4070 2 жыл бұрын

Bien plus difficile j'ai fait la tiefmatten une ballade de santė à côté ! Plus long,plus technique,plusphysique,plus engagé,plus exposė pour moi Lion descente sur Hornli ça vaut D en cotation!

@cockneybuddhist4713 2 жыл бұрын

This route doesn't look as crowded as the Hornli route, is that the case?

@tvmountain 2 жыл бұрын

yes fewer people

@cockneybuddhist4713 2 жыл бұрын

@@tvmountain Thank you, love your videos, so detailed and best of all, no music :-)

@tahirhameed5569 4 жыл бұрын

Do you know that when you travel from Islamabad to to Skardu in Pakistan by air , you can see "Sleeping beauty " of Pakistan that is some Mountains tops are carved by nature that it looks that a Lady is sleeping,it starts from head hairs, forehead, nose throat, breast tummy and lastly legs and feet. 😯

@gregood 2 жыл бұрын

Le cameraman est en solo ??

@tvmountain 2 жыл бұрын

des fois...

@edmartinezdj9034 7 жыл бұрын

11.07 OMG. Talk about exposed. ITs psycological I know but...

@jhman9901 4 жыл бұрын

La scala non si può proprio vedere

@patriceramond 2 жыл бұрын

C'est quoi toutes ces cordes et éclles mdr? c'est une via ferrata le truc en fait

@tvmountain 2 жыл бұрын

pas tout a fait...

@user-nc6gs6fh9g 4 жыл бұрын

何が楽しいんだろう？

@lesavoyard8340 3 жыл бұрын

Dire qu as l époque il grimpait sans équipements de la voie,ni materiel

@tvmountain 3 жыл бұрын

des monstres

@eikavi 4 жыл бұрын

So much trash on the poor mountain just for ego-satisfaction ?!? Ridiculously amazing

@TommyMacMXClimber 4 жыл бұрын

This climb is a conundrum. On one hand, it's still an accomplishment, because it is long, tiring, and has objective dangers. On the other hand, most experienced climbers and EVERY great climber (Messner, Twight, Lowe, Terray, etc.) would consider it an ABOMINATION due to the fixed ropes, ladders, and chains (Really??? Chains??? Who does that???). As has been commented below, this route is now a via ferrata. Sad. Anything can be climbed by hauling on fat ropes and chains. And as Messner famously said, it's the "murder of the impossible." You may as well take a helicopter up, take selfies, fly back down and go for a long run, and then brag about the really hard day. I just hope the same thing doesn't happen to the Nordwand of the Eiger. And on a safety note - why in god's name is the roped client not carrying an ice axe??? One slip for him on many places of the climb and he and his guide would both die. There is no good reason that he should have climbed without an ice axe.

@haupesuisse 3 жыл бұрын

Big tongue to tell us what is string or not. Every one can beat their own targets without people criticizing like you did

@michel.b5752 4 жыл бұрын

Faire du rocher avec des crampons, sur une voie équipée, une "via ferrata", c'est un peu con. Le mot escalade est peut-être même un peu usurpé.

@haupesuisse 3 жыл бұрын

Le mot troll n'est pas usurpé pour vous en revanche

@michel.b5752 3 жыл бұрын

@@haupesuisse Vous faites partie de ces "gens" qui appelle troll ceux qui ne sont pas d'accord avec eux. C'est (plus qu'un peu) sectaire, quel manque de tolérance ! être traité de troll par un ..., est un plaisir de fin gourmet.

@haupesuisse 3 жыл бұрын

@@michel.b5752 il ne s'agit pas que vous soyez d'accord ou pas Michel. Ce qui n'intéresse pas les "gens", les "trolls" (d'en être nommé vous irrite, j'en suis heureux), c'est votre avis médisant publié sous la vidéo ! Alors oui, nous n'avons pas besoin de votre venin sur des vidéos où nous trouvons les gens courageux, alpinistes ou pas.. La condescendance des 1ers de cordée

@michel.b5752 3 жыл бұрын

@@haupesuisse Mais non, ça ne m'irrite pas. Être traité de troll par un imbécile est un plaisir de fin gourmet. J'oubliais. Être en crampon sur une échelle est même dangereux. Quand je fais de la montagne, je bannis ces comportements dangereux.

@haupesuisse 3 жыл бұрын

@@michel.b5752 CQFD. Ma démonstration est terminée ! Merci à toi Ô Supérieur Michel B. L'Alpiniste qui fait de la montagne de nous consacrer tout ce temps pour 1) Expliquer ce qu'est l'escalade, 2) Comment on "fai(t) de la montagne" à nous les cons (je cite ton 1er commentaire), les imbéciles (ton dernier). En plus d'être linguiste (tu définis ce qu'est l'Escalade, le Troll), tu montres ton vrai visage de mec frustré devant son ordinateur, qui critique une vidéo sympa, insulte et se montre grossier, donneur de leçon. Je lirai avec le "régal du Gourmet" ta dernière réponse, et te laisserai seul ruminer ton univers sombre de égocentrique science infuse. Si au moins tu la partageais de manière constructive...