I just said the same thing and looked for a comment on it. What a crappy engineering design. What did you end up doing? I just ordered a set of the bearings. I'm not doing what he did. I'll probably cut slots in the top lip, peel it back, push the bearing in, and then bend them back. I assume the pully-bearing design came from chasing vibration failures due to other design/validation issues.

@@accidentalheadclunkers8517 Very crappy design. A money making design. I did as suggested in video. Drilled out the rivets, replaced with bolts and lock nuts. I also used anti-seize compound on the bolts. I think I paid $6.00 for the bearing at the local hardware store. I used an 1/8" bit and then the 1/4" bit. It was very easy and didn't take much time at all. I used my drill press instead of a hand drill. I will do the others as they go bad. 100% recommend.

68tri1 man...ok, I'll trust your 100%. I'll do it when the bearings get here and report back. I assume there's a reason nobody is using a cutoff wheel or die grinder instead of a drill. I might start there just to help other people if it's a bad idea. I ordered 6 bearings for $20 through Amazon. I only have one bearing that's critical, so we'll see if I have time to fix more than that before the kids break something more critical. Thanks, 68.

@@accidentalheadclunkers8517 I'm sure you can use a grinder or cutoff wheel. For me the drill press was quicker and cleaner. I'm sure either way will work just as good. $20.00 for six bearings? Very nice. Cheap fix.

The good news is that the next time you have a bad bearing, it'll take you about 5 minutes to swap out the bearing.

timrhoades11 You can drive the reducer out with a proper sized socket and a hammer, or you can put it into a press with a proper sized bushing. Hope the video helped you out a little.

Yes, there is a bushing that acts like a spacer on the pulley. The spacer goes down, toward the deck.

Joe Yates I used a hand drill... If you have a vice or C-clamp, it will make it pretty easy to hold. A drill press would be ideal, though.

very good, thank you. I currently do not have a drill press

The seal is partially covered by the pully so good luck getting it out in one piece also their were vents in it? Why? i dont know but that allows moisture and dirt to get into it so I wouldnt give it to long before it starts yelling agian

Each bearing will have different dimensions. I wish I could remember the exact aftermarket bearing that I used on this one, but you should be able to cross reference the bearing thats on your pulley.

I appreciate the comment! The best part about doing it this way, is here in a couple of years, instead of buying another $30 pulley, I'll just put in another $4 bearing in about the same amount of time.

I'd argue not everyone is making $60/hr yet to where this 30 min project could be argued that way. Regardless, most of the people who say this, say it because they're lazy and have discretionary spending surplus. As you said, most of them probably waste more time doing entertainment and other BS, because its more interesting to them. Its funny how something so many people think is a waste of time, is actually a nice break from the day to day rat race, and we can learn something as well as save some cash. I learn new, creative ways to swear every time I start what seems to be a simple project...

I've got to replace 2, however its not urgent. So I spent $13 for 3, and expect this to take about 15-20 min with my cheapo HF $100 drill press. For some of these repairs, I've saved a bit more than I spent on some tools, and the tools get used for other projects. Most people who claim their time is to precious to do things like this, or mow their own lawns or clean their own houses can simply afford currently to be lazy. Saving a 1/2 hour isn't going to earn many much, since they'll just expend that savings watching tv or something.

Agree. I would say that the problem with a lot of aftermarket bearings is that there isn't much grease in them. I recommend removing the seals and packing it with a good quality grease... It'll last much longer.

a tip: watch series at Flixzone. I've been using them for watching a lot of movies during the lockdown.

@Joel Brandon yea, I've been using flixzone for years myself :D

All about the money. Bearings are cheap. Pulleys can be sold for more money.

OEMs and Manf's don't just plan and produce a product. They also try to add a recurring revenue stream in the parts and repair sector. For half-way decent machines that have a parts channel, they can make as much or more than the original sale price over the life of the product. MBA 101.

he spent $25 plus the cost of bolts no value there.

They took $58 today from me for this pulley. The price of everything is going to the moon.

They are now $72 for this pulley

Yeah, I've seen pulleys that were welded around the V. Sucks. Good luck with your pulley replacement.

I've been dong this for years and never had a problem. You only drill it out once... 5 minute job to redo bearing after that. Steel pulley will out live mower... But its a good idea to burnish the lips of pulley so they don't get sharp. When you run 3 mowers, it adds up on the life of the machine.

Sometimes I like to take the scenic route to save a few bucks... LOL!

X300 38" xtra edge deck with a Kawasaki engine. So I bought the other green machine.... Lol but The JD dealer her is very proud of their parts

Agreed

Can't disagree with you... I just hate paying that much for an idler pulley that just needs a bearing. My problem is that the closest JD dealer is about 30 minutes away... And, usually don't have anything in Stock.

I think I'd put. Some blue thread lock on tose bolts.