Thank you so much!

Thanks for the tip

Dudley Toolwright me too, we hobbyists can’t compete with sponsored big shots as far as the equipment goes and making do with what we have and making them better is a hobby in itself. That’s why I watch your channel 😁

Thanks Bill

Thanks Terry as always

Naw, I tried it, just turns out paper copy...lol

Thanks Anthony, was definitely worth my time

It is interesting how such a simple fix makes such a huge difference. I am probably going to be doing this with my grinders this weekend.

Give it a try!

Gene Fortney thanks Gene!

Joe Dance thanks Joe!

bhein67 good luck!

Good luck Brian!

@@woodscreekworkshop9939 Thank you!

Thanks Norm, we are doing well!

anything you do to it will likely make it run better!

Thanks

Simple if you have a lathe......

@@LilasTools ... $4000 later, you can make washers for your $100 grinder xD

Dread Naught thanks!

well said Stuart. agreed 100 percent

Thanks, I am happy with the result

What you describe works for brushed motors, however these bench grinders are brushless inductive motors and I doubt that shorting the windings will make much difference to spin down.

Thanks Yves!

Ettore di Carlo thank you!

CXensation a lot of truth to that. Thanks

That is the correct way. This guy wasted a lot of time and effort to acheive a tiny improvement.

Given the eventual use of the lathe, and the eventual use of shims, I'd have expected that the grinder axle would have been placed in the lathe and the exposed shafts and shoulders made regular very early in the process.

Michael Rosenlof sorry not sorry 😜

Thank you sir!

Thanks!

steve golden thank you Steve!

ADES WORKSHOP thanks Ade for your kind words as always 🙏🏼

DrewT thanks and good luck!

Thanks John!

alsatian9130 wow, thank you!

Thanks Mike, I am happy with the result

Wow, thanks for sharing

I know! 😁

Thanks Sam!

Thanks Michael

PGS thanks Peter!

SAMRODIAN thank you!

I inherited one of those from my dad, installed new wheels and the difference was astonishing!

Well said

So true. new tool rest project will be coming soon

Thanks!

Yes it did

Thanks

You can’t have mine

@@woodscreekworkshop9939 I think it would be expensive anyway. :)

Thanks Clarke!

glenn whitchurch thanks Glenn!

🤣

Thanks!

There's another trick which would have helped correct the residual out-of-balance. Particularly in a case like this where the wheel has been trued when there was clearance in the bore (or in the more usual case where the wheel has worn out of shape) it's pointless trying to true it at any speed greater than about the first harmonic. Which is a LOT less than 1700, or whatever the base speed is on a bench grinder. In the following explanation, the word "you" is directed at anyone reading this who wants to get a really smooth running wheel. Ideally you should be able to touch a fingerprint to the wheel outer surface when it's running, and if you do it gently, and the dressing is geometrically perfect, you won't lose any skin. Here's how to get there (having followed the excellent suggestions in the clip, but if anything, make the centre hub of the flanges longer yet, for better engagement and improved squareness to the spindle. As pointed out in the clip, the shoulders on the spindle are so low as to be ineffective in this role, but the solution is to derive decent guidance from the cylindrical portion of the spindle. Just rely on the spindle's shoulder to prevent the flange moving inwards, not to hold it square. Don't worry about making the outer flanges wider, just the inner ones. The outer ones will partially end up on the male spindle thread anyway, but the inner ones will dictate the squareness of the wheel) To achieve the required low revs for dressing: Ideally you'd set up a temporary belt drive from a low speed motor at the far end. You can use a flat belt onto the other wheel. But here's a quick and dirty way which works well: Take a diamond nib in a suitable holder (they have a handle like a chisel, and a coaxial hole which is a close fit on the shank of the nib, and a clamp screw) Run the grinder just long enough that the sound of the motor is about half the rated speed (for the musically inclined that's an octave lower in pitch, but it doesn't matter a damn.) Let the speed run down and take note of the speeds at which the wobble is worst. These are harmonics, and you want to wait until it gets below the last wobbly speed before you start dressing. This won't give you much time before the speed is too slow for dressing, so just dress a single groove deep enough that the dressing tool is no longer being pushed in and out every rev. The root of the groove will then be more or less true to the spindle. Then repeat, making a series of close spaced grooves, almost touching each other, all made below the first harmonic speed. Truing is like turning grooves on a wood lathe. The toolrest must be close to the wheel, and apply a heavy enough inwards force to engage quite aggressively with the wheel, with NO side-to-side movement. The aim is to get rid of the off-centre material, and the reason to do this at slow speed is that, at higher speeds, the wheel will take charge and force the grinder spindle (and to some extent, the whole grinder) to "orbit" in such a way that the wheel is rotating, not about the centre of its hole, but about its centre of mass. It's the same thing you see in a spin dryer when above a certain speed it suddenly runs smoothly. That's because the spindle drive is suspended in springs to allow this latter mode to happen without strain. In a bench grinder, with no springs, there is a residual movement of the grinder. But more importantly, it's a waste of time dressing the wheel because it just perpetuates the out-of-balance, keeping the centre of mass in the same (wrong) place and wasting grit for nothing. Once you've got rid of most of the out of balance material, you can risk spinning a bit faster to get rid of the rest.Once you've got rid of ALL the vibration, you can fine dress at full speed. (ideally with a T-handle diamond-grit dresser, but a dressing stone does a fair job). If you've done it properly, you can apply the fingerprint test. If you have any doubts, use a bit of leather first, like the side or end of a heavy belt, gently touching the wheel. It's not as sensitive a test but your fingerprints will thank you. If you're trying to get really sharp edges on lathe or boring tools, you will be astonished how much better the result is from a perfectly smooth-running wheel. Provided the bearings are OK and you follow the suggestions in this clip and then this post, it does not need to be an expensive grinder to give superb results.

Thanks Steven!

Thanks Robert. Start with simple things and see where that takes you.

Sure does

Thanks John!

Eduardo Tejeda thank you!

I drank a lot of RC cola when I was young, cheaper for my parents and I actually liked it 👍🏼

I will when I can get to making one. Hopefully soon 👍🏼

Agree with yuu