Thanks Dan ! I appreciate it

Thanks for watching Brotha !!

Yes. All good now. Thanks Jason. That stuff is good in old cars when you can put it directly in the rad and have the water pump chew it up. Going in the small reservoir is obviously not good. It just trickled down the tube and plugged things up

Yes I have heard of the metal ones. Thanks for your feedback

Yup. It's good stuff lol 😆😆😆

Thank you Jerry !

Happy New Year to you and your family Zane !

In older cars you could put it in the rad and the pump would chew it up. Now it goes in through the expansion tank and kind of sits there. Back to normal now.

Hard to get rid of that one 😞

Rad seems fine. It is 10 yrs old though.

Yes. No more !

Yes. Was nothing wrong with the other one. Was the goop I put in that messed it up

All good now.

Happy New year !!! All fixed now. For now lol

I've been looking at Jeeps actually

There are codes but nothing to do with cooling system. Did that already in a previous vid. Changed both sensors. Not worried about the o2 sensor it's 10 yrs old and 200k

It's the sealer I put in as a precaution

Don’t need sealer with dexcool. It’s designed to plug small leaks.

@@Sir_Loin_of_Steak Thanks for your feedback ! Interesting I was not aware of this 👍

It gels when exposed to air. Used to flush and replace with old style green coolant. Ended up with lots of little leaks and sometimes an unsolvable electrolysis problem. Aluminum radiator and heater cores would sometimes last only months. Then it was back to dexcool, always making sure it was properly bled and radiator was ALWAYS full!

I think you are somewhat incorrect. My thermostat was jammed open because of the product I put in. The thermostat is designed to fail open so the engine doesn t overheat. My new thermostat was shut. I tried blowing air through it and could not. Telling me it's designed shut. Once the engine gets warm, it expands and opens letting coolant flow to the radiator. Any thoughts ? Do I have this wrong ??

​@@pstreetgarage7304 I haven't watched the full video but yes any deposits in the system can make the valve stuck and difficult to move, but the way these usually fail is when the seal inside it fails allowing the wax inside to seep out of place + water gets inside causing the lubrication to be removed making it difficult for the thermostat to open or even close. And yes when the engine is cold the thermostat is supposed to stay closed to allow the engine to reach its desired operating temperature, once the coolant reaches a certain temperature the wax inside the thermostat heats up and expands forcing the valve to open and allowing the coolant to pass through the radiator to cool it down and cool down the engine, then once it's cold enough, the wax inside also cools and then the spring closes the valve to maintain the operating temperature, this does the same thing but it also has a heater core that can heat the wax at any time depending on the engine load to open the water flow even if it doesn't reach the required temperature. In my experience, only OEM will last and don't buy the aluminum ones, they have a really bad thermostat + heater that always fail..

@@GadGetHackss The plastic one should last the life of the car. It's 10 yrs old with 200 k. The original lasted 10 yrs. The aftermarket one failed but it was my fault. Should be good to go now. 🤞

@@GadGetHackss Thanks for your feedback.

Yyyyikes! 😢 that thermostat.