Literally the best in depth video on KZfaq not only telling you how to do it but also a little knowledge on why 👍🏻 quite helpfull and enjoyabke

Followed your video step by step on my 1954 Chevy, very informative video and everything worked first time. The only thing was I didn't know what terminal to attach the wire to on the ignition on mine there are four terminals, but I hooked it up to the one that said ignition and it worked like a charm great video

Great job Eric! I'm currently converting my 1948 Chevy pickup. This really helped. FYI, I bought all the component you mentioned as a kit from Vintage Auto. All in cost was over $400. Wish I had watched your suggestions before hand.

Nice video. I switched my 42 Dodge from 6V positive ground to 12V negative ground. You use the same process but remember to install a new condenser under the distributor cap. Happy motoring.

Thank you, Eric, for these informative videos. I have a 1950 Chevy Styleline 4-Door 3.5L that I'm getting ready to convert. I’m fed up with the 6Volt system. Please continue to upload all the updates you’re doing to your Styleline so we can learn from your experiences.

Thank you very much for posting this video. This is one of the best, most complete and thorough instructional videos we have seen on the net. Very, very good video. Thank you and God Bless You !!...

This video was super valuable, i'm currently in the conversion process myself on my RHD 1950 in Western Australia. I did some things quite similar to you. What I also did is get a Kit 11 Accuspark hall effect electronic ignition module to go inside the Delco Remy distributor so no more stuffing around with setting points. I highly recommend the module for smooth ignition. I also replaced my tail, park and plate lamps with automotive LED versions, which make the lights super bright. I've also read that it is worth using a 12V solenoid for the starter.

Great video, explains a lot of things. I have a 1954 Chevy 2 ton (235cid) that some one else converted. Gas guage is fried and it has ongoing charging issues with the regulator. I am defo going to switch out the gen for the alt. I am retrofitting the gas guage to 12volt right now and have speedo and cluster removed to accomplish that. It would have made a good video except it would take all afternoon to watch. Thanks again.

I followed this video when I converted my 48 chevy truck to 12 volts. Made it very easy.

Thank you so much for this, really well explained and has been a massive help on converting my ‘51 Styleline here in the uk. Great video!🇺🇸🇬🇧👍

I just bought my dads 50 chevy convertible DeLuxe from my sister. before he passed he was converting it to 12volt. I don't know where he left off but your video will help me out tremendously! Hope that he change all those things! Thanks for sharing this with us. Trying to start it and found out there was a hotwire from ignition switch going know where and he put a kill switch on it. I figure it out.....I hope! Thanks again!

The reason you don't see a voltage regulator is because it's internal to the alternator ie: built in. Another advantage is alternators are more reliable and like the battery WAY cheaper. Plus if you need to replace anything it's not a factory order or internet. The reason the Alt bracket are so pricey is demand there just isn't any so they get made in small batches only as needed. You could cobble something together with a welder and some flat stock for a little bit of nothing. Just a thought...

If you run that red wire to a main junction such as the fuse box input, or run it to the starter like stock gm cars it will compensate for losses in wiring. That's why they do it because the power comes from the battery cable at the starter and upstream from there, and if choose the inside fuse panel or wherever it connects from battery of course and you'll get 14.4v to everything as long as it goes to the main junction somewhere within. I'd pick the longest run. And to the end of that run and you'd be shocked at the difference, especially since the times where you'd use something with heavy amperage like the lights it wouldn't drop down and dim nearly as bad and your lights would be nice and bright particularly if you've used at least 14awg to the headlights and for the taillights do 2357 or 7528, the 7528 is noticeably brighter but actually uses less power and not as hot. 2357 is brighter brake lamp but uses more power and much hotter. So I use 7528. And for the front turns you should use 1156A for yellow. At least that's what I do and they work great. And for the 1156 clear use 3497 bulbs they are almost twice as bright but same wattage. They are all legit upgrades for modern day incandescent bulbs. And the clock usually you can use a 1155 in it's place and the only benefit would be 5,000hrs or 10,000 hours on the 1155long life vs 800hrs on the 89.

About to do conversation on 41 Chevy with 235... Thanks for all the info.. great heip.

Great video, very informative! The alternator and brackets could be picked up at a junkyard for $20-30. I have pulled a few for different cars and tested them at the parts store free of charge.

great job describing how to do the conversion 6 to 12 volts

Great video I think I'm gonna turn in my 1951 Chevy like that thanks for putting this video up.

Your conversion is OK exept 2 little items a) the red wire of the alt regulator goes to battery positive post, in your setup, the alternator ignores the voltage drop in the charging wire and as the consumption increases, the effective voltage to the battery posts decreases, I suggest you to install a 20 to 50 ohm resistor in parrallel to the charging warning light in the event it burns, OMC uses a diode to prevent after run issue. b) in your ignition circuit, you should bypass the ballast resistor to start, I've done it using a Bosch relay and using the starter signal wire to trigger the relay As long you don't abuse the starter, it will not cause issues the biggest problem is the gauges, the best way is to measure the amperage and build a resistor bank to drop from 12 to 6 volts. I don't think you can do the same thing with the radio as on the 6 volt system, the ground is positive and on the 12 volt system, the ground is negative

Thanks for taking the time and explaining everything so well. Enjoyed your video.

Ebay has a (CHEVY DELCO ALTERNATOR HARNESS ANTI- FEEDBACK DIODE 10SI 12SI 15SI 27SI wire) which come with both harnesses for $10, in case anyone was interested?

ditch those points for Pertronix...did that on my 48 Pontiac. Worth the investment :)

Great info! Working on a 1954 Chevy Belair this week

Great video! Starting to toy with my 51 so the visuals are super helpful!

Good video.... Very complete... Easy to understand

I used to use a 12 volt light bulb on the gauges as a resistor

the ignition coil for 12 volt you can use a bosch blue coil for a volkswagen beetle they are internally resisted for a points replacement you can use a Pertronix ignitor kit that goes in your distributor as they have the original ignitor if its a non resisted coil you have to use a ballast resistor with thi ignitor l the pertronix ignitor ll the ballast resistor is optional as it works will with internally resisted coils. as they have ignitors that fits various distributors. as the magnet sleeve goes over the points cam. as the ignitor ll is more reliable better for daily drivers. as the ignitor fits in the stock distributor so no aftermarket distributor needed. and you don't need points anymore but save your points for backup.

That is a lot of work, thanks E your good at explaining great video thanks. cheers

I have a 1947 Chevy coupe stylemaster I did many up grades to my car 250 straight six with 350 automatic transmission 5on5 lugs disc brakes in the front, electric ignition 12 volt conversion. This car keeps up with modern-day traffic. I made the engine mounts I can put a V8 if I wanted to.

GREAT VIDEO. EASY TO FOLLOW. I WILL ATTEMPT THE PROCESS. GREAT TEACHER

awesome video! very informative!

Classic parts and a couple other parts sites offer a original looking 12 generator.. generators cut out the middle man (single diode rectifier) and produce straight DC current. Modern Alternators have either a single diode or a full bridge rectifier to make the AC into DC. If you’re going for the original look you can get a 12v generator rebuilt. The long one fit my 235 perfectly. The 216 might need a short though.

a 3rd alternative for the alternator diode or lamp is a 10 ohm wirewound resistor. charging should be indicated by the ammeter. all 3 work fine.

I would love to see you do some cold starts on all of your trucks and cars. You’re so knowledgeable and it would be cool to see the full startup procedure on all of them. I’m new to carbureted engines and could use some tips especially with regards to what to do with the gas pedal during cold starts.

Great info buddy and thanks for sharing 👍

amazing! thank you for being honest and showing everything so well thank you again!

Thanks for taking the time to make a very informative video !

Great video, I'm working on a 47 fleetmaster I'm sure that this is going to help. Thanks!

For blower you can use one from a mid 80s to early 90s sqaurebody suburban or a k10 as well but the suburban one blows a lot faster and just has the normal state terminal. And for everything else use converters from Amazon such as for the radio they are like 10 bucks.

I like wearing my CO,H2s,So2 meters

Great instructional Video very helpful

Hi Eric, Study up on DC to DC converters. I think you will find they are a cheap way to drop the voltage for your dash and a big one should run your 6 volt radio on 6 volts for you. They are fairly cheap and easy to use.

Nice car, mine has been in the family for like 50+ years its a late 53, ppl think it's a 54, depending on how rough it is when I get started, I may just lightly sand it, and put a coat of satin clear , and leave the paint faded,

I like the Skyline, there are a couple that look just like it here in Pendleton Oregon, same color even , love the videos, "Drunk driver takes a swing" was great, the drunk made me laugh til I found out he had his kid with him, he got what he deserves. Keep up the vids

you can buy the flat metal steel at home depot 2 or 4 ft long and make all your brackets cheap for alternator

Your coil should receive a full 12 volts on startup and then drop to 7 volts thru the ballast resister when the engine is running. On a cold day you need the extra voltage at coil to start. You probably could achieve this with a relay or use a later starter like a 235 6 cyl. starter if it would fit. They have an R terminal that sends the 12 volts to the coil only on crank.

Excellent video, thanks for sharing 😎😎😎

For the RADIO, you can get a DC to DC converter. to buck the 12-15v to 6v it will output a steady 6v, running or not. for $20 or so, from AMAZON!

Excellent video. If you want to run a 120 amp charging system for hi powerd audio/ video or air suspension compressor use a 1985 Chevrolet Caprice 5.7 alternator $90. I wonder if converting a 1953 Lincoln Capri would be the same process.

Awesome sir......thankyou for some good info.

I think a voltage regulator would've protected certain circuits. I have one on my firewall. I did however have to change my plastic tail light lenses to handle the brighter 12 volt power

Awesome detailed video thank you.

great videos and great cars.

very good video I thought those crews were called bow ties

Mighty Thorough. Mighty Helpful.

Thank you

Very informative. Thank you.

Well done

There is no need to convert to 12 volts. Just use the correct 1 gauge battery cables, and a Group 2 or larger battery, and you will be fine. You can use an 8 volt battery if you want. All you have to do is re-adjust the regulator. The auto makers when to 12 volts as a cost save, rather than as a real upgrade.

I thought you had no intention of doing this? Haha. All good brutha, I did the same thing, and love the difference...

I have a 53' Belair I want to convert to 12v I have plenty of alternators, I can rebuild to one wire! I would kinda like to swap to v8. Or 4.3L v6, or maybe a 1984 250 I6 would look more at home, I'd like to add power steering. But mainlyid like to swap in a 4speed trans, or a 700R auto, with a 3.42 gear and a decent set of 17" or so rims and tires, even if I go with the 250 and 700R, with 3.42 gears, it should run decent, I want decent milage, decent power, i may go with a 283 or 305 I have a .060" 283, but its moe of a hotrod engine, with Dz302 goodys on it, cam included, I don't need power from 4k-7200+ RPM a nice sounding base model mid 60's style v8 should fit the bill decently! I do hate to get rid of the clutch peddle! A 4speed on the column, with a hidden reverse would be something, freak ppl out thinking you gonna take off in reverse! Ha-ha!/!;!

There is no need to convert 6 volt cars to 12 volts, all you have to do is use the correct 1 gauge battery cables and a group 2 or larger. If you want still more juice, just use an 8 volt battery. All you will have to do is re-adjust the regulator. Even Amazon sells them.

Interesting that the car has separate parking/turn signals. It didn't leave the factory that way.

****** WARNING ****** YOU MUST NOT RUN THE ALTERNATOR WIRING THROUGH THE ORIGINAL AMMETER IN THE ORIGINAL GUAGE CLUSTER. ****** If the electrical load is large due to Air Conditioning, Radiator Cooling Fans, a Powerful Aftermarket Stereo, Head Lights on, etc., etc. you may be using the full 63 amps of the 10SI alternator. The original #10 gauge wire to the ammeter is only rated for 30 amps and the old style insulation does not have a high temperature rating and will catch fire easily ! At the very least add a #14 gauge fuse link in series with the alternator wire and also a #14 gauge fuse link in series with the battery feed that comes from the starter. After a long cranking session on a cold morning that alternator is capable of pushing way more charging current into the battery than the ammeter and OEM wiring is designed for. If the alternator were to quit working the entire electrical load would be passing through the ammeter and it's wiring. There is a reason NO modern automobile is built with an in dash ammeter. All the big wire and heavy current should be under the hood, not inside the car ! Just a quick look at the ratty condition of the insulation tells me he should not be giving electrical advice.

I'll build my own brackets 🤣 that's what I'll do.

Your dome lamp is a 1004 not a 1156. They are two pin bulbs and are not grounded. The ground connection is the door switch.

blinker light looks like my reverse lights on my 1950 pontiac.

THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!

can you upload a video explaining the benefit of 12 volts vs 6 volts? also coould you upload a video where you explain what engine oil to use?

I believe it was a mistake to convert to 12 volts. 6 volts worked well when new.

Would a resistor on the blower motor reduce the voltage enough to slow it down?

hey buddy how are you? I have a question for you: Once i make the car 12 volts, where can i find a battery tray for the new battery since the 12 volts battery is going to be bigger than the 6 volts and it wont fit on the 6 volts tray?

What about the negative side of the coil do you just run a wire and ground it off?

fantastic video.

Not sure if you fixed it already but I know why your dome light is always on

I would also suggest a voltage converter to convert the 12v back to 6-7volt for the proper voltage for the fuel guage and gas tank sender to work without burning up. What has been your experience?

How did you reduce your radio to 6v? Great easy to follow vid. Changing over a 53 Chevy 150 to 12 volt. Using your vid to do this. Thx again

My 52 Styleline doesn't have the extra turn signal bulbs, it's the deluxe model, does that make a difference? Also, it has the 235 engine with the powerglide trans, factory stock. I've been having all kinds of problems lately with spark, the turn signals have never worked, and the brake signals aren't working anymore either. Seeing someone with basically the same car as me, I'd love to pick your brain about some of the work you've done. I'm going to be watching all your videos!

I had a 53 Pontiac back in the 1966. Paid $15. Was only 6 cyl but fast because body had rusted away and engine had built up high compression over the years. Am doing 6 -12 v conversion on 1966 English motorcycle that is POS ground, so (if I keep it Pos ground) do I run the hot ignition wire (neg. one from ign switch) to the resistor and then the Neg. side of the coil rather than the Pos? Is the idea just to resist the input to the coil? Oh, but this bike like many others (Harley, Honda) has the high tension cable going directly from coil to spark plug, the "distributor" (c.b. points) is earlier in the system. So maybe the resistor is just for automobile type where high tension cable runs from coil to distributor and distributor to plugs?

Jumped ahead so I'm not sure if you mentioned a voltage reducer for the gas gauge.

Hi, you are awesome for doing this and showing us how to do it. Would it be the same process for. 1948 Chevy Fleetmaster? It’s a 6 cylinder same as your car. Everything is extra dim. -thank you

can you do a video explaining the main differences or benefits of the 12 volts vs 6 volts?

So I can install a lamp and that can act in place of the diode? Great video!

automobile belts are made to take a lot more abuse than a machine belt. thats why the difference in price. you may find the machine belt works ok for you. just keep an eye on it.

👏🏻👍

Question , I have a 54' Bel air , switched to 12v Ron Francis harness , changed heater blower to a 12v motor , will the heater control switch ( has coiled resistor wire) in control panel handle the 12 volts?

What should a person pay to have a mechanic switch my 1953 Chevy BelAir with the 6 cyl engine from 6 volt to 12 volt? I am disabled and unable to do it myself, besides I have no tools, just wondering if you could tell me what a fair price to do this would be? Thank you, loved your video.

Hi Eric can you help me I've got a 38 Chevy 6 volt stopped charging. Got a good battery, I don't see a voltage regulator anywhere. The original generator Delco Remy has a little square box mounted to it, is that the regulator built on? How do I check this thing ? What should it be putting out I have a volt meter. Thanks

Thanks for the great video, Eric. This kind of tutorial info really helps when you're tackling a project like this for the first time (the second time is ALWAYS much easier/faster). I am curious about the impedance value of the resistors you used. Looks like the ballast resistor (for the ignition) that I see on line are 1.4 to 1.6 ohms. Is that what you used? Also, I would also like to know what value resistor you used for the gas gauge. Thanks for the great video, Brother! -Lee

Eric, Just one question Why don't you run a new wire to the accessories rather then patch into a wire that is 70 years old? I'm not saying all the wires but anything in the engine compartment or what goes to the dashboard.

Im wanting to do the same process on a semi truck of similar age with a large 6 cyl gas motor. How does the 10si charge at idle? Does it require revving to charge?

What would be the difference if using a 1 wire alternator? I wired mine just liike the video and something is draining my battery.

what alternator pulley did you buy? when im placing the order it shows two different sizes of alternator pully

What is the olmage rating of those resisters used on the various circuits?

I also have a 52, but in the middle of a full frame off restoration. I also have a 41 I'd like to convert as you did with your 52. Would this be the same for my 41 with a 216?

Your 1952 Chevy happens to have the Powerglide automatic transmission. How would you change out the pilot light bulb on the selector?

I own a 1951 Styleline Chevy Deluxe should I follow this as a tutorial or is this not similar enough?

Hi ive got a 38 Chevy with 6v generator im having trouble can you help? Ive got a few questions, thanks.

Great video!! You said when you changed the coil you had some issues with your points and you said you fixed the issue that it was a ignition issue. Can you reply and tell me what that issue was please I’m having the same issue right now thank you.

Can you use a 57 light bulb for the glove box?

Im curious, Is your starter still working? I hear that the 6 volt starter spins to fast and will self destruct under 12 volt power