I've reviewed several KZfaq tutorials on this project but I think I found the best. This guy suggested taking out the driver's seat which should make it much easier.

So I ( with my husband & daughters help) used this video to help us replace my brake booster. 1 thank you for making the video it really helped. For those looking in the comments for extra help here are some suggestions. 1. When you remove the carpet there's going to be foam and a leather like plastic behind everything. Cut as much of that out as possible. 2. Make sure you have all the tools he mentions. Especially the pass-through socket wrench. On some things you can use an impact gun. 3. If you can, start with the top-right bolt first before the other three. The other three are the easiest & quickest. 4. As for time length, it took about 2 1/2 hrs. Please note, the 1 & 1/2 hrs is from that freaking bolt in the right-hand corner. 🤣😂

2003 S10. Replaced the booster last night. Your video is excellent and really helped; especially with the tip to use the 15mm pass through sockets on the top inside nut next to the steering column. Thank you!

Congrats. Finley someone that knows what they are doing. This video helped me save a couple hundred bucks by doing this job by myself on my driveway... THANKS AGAIN.

The process in the video was good. It was much harder to do than the video portrayed. Access to the four bolts in the cab under the dash were not visible until the floor covering was cut away, not easy. The video skipped this part to cut away the covering to access the bolt nuts. My 2001 S10 had a 4.3 V6, the brake line manifold was a bit different. I had to remove the Fuse Box bolts to slide it forward and the manifold to create more space to remove and install the Power Brake Booster Assembly. I spent six hour total to complete the job not counting driving to get tools and parts. Without removing the driver seat it would have been impossible to do the job requiring a T50 hex tool to remove one of the four seat bolts/nuts The Pash Through Wrench is a must. FYI: My old Booster boot sleeve remained in the firewall slot which I did not notice until after I tried to install the new Booster. I had to remove the old Booster boot before installing the new booster. The old boot sleeve was preventing installation of the new. A freaking lesson learned.😊

Just finished replacing the break booster on a 1999 s10 zr2. Video was a big help. (Confession time) how many s10 are out there missing that top right bolt.

I just did this with my 99 s10. Let me say this...I wouldn't wish this repair on my worst enemy! It took me 8hrs to get the top right nut off the booster. It took me 1hr to get the new booster in locked down and the truck put back together, yall want to know the trick? DONT PUT ON THE TOP RIGHT BOLT WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW BOOSTER. simply torque down the other 3 as much as u can and it will hold just as tight and u eliminate the hassle of the top right nut.

Thanks for the video man. Wife left me; got a 96 sky blue blazer 160k miles for $800..body is mint, brand new tires, interior is cherry; brake booster is completely bad. I didnt think I would be able to change it myself but after your video I'm going to order it off rockauto and give it a go. Very informative video, keep up the good work.

Been working on a 99 Jimmy for a few days now and after bleeding the brakes, replacing the master cylinder, I’ve come to find that it is most likely a bad booster. Thank you for briefly explaining the tools you used and what to expect/what makes it easier for us. 💪🏼

Great video! Excellent information, camera work and production. If I was going to offer any advice, it would be to not reassemble the dash until you've completed the underhood installation and tested that everything works properly. It's rare, but you never know when you'll get a bad part and have to reverse the procedure.

Dude you are bad ass!!! Thank you I have never had to do this on any of my S10's and or Blazers. This is going to be my 1st time replacing the brake booster...

My brakes just completely went out the other day on my 96 s10. Fixed the leaks, got a new vacuum hose, blead the brakes like 4 times before I finally came to the conclusion that it's my brake booster. Gotta pick it up later today.

great video...BUT you do not NEED the pass through socket set. a 5/8 spark plug socket with the hex end and a 3/4 box end wrench, preferably ratchet wrench, works well even though the 5/8 is incorrect size.

Very precise , quality video, no title screen intro just right to the point. A+ , thank you!

Yo buddy. Thanks man, I just put the brake booster in my chevy s10. This saved me some dough. That 12 inch wrench extension was clutch.

Thank you so much for this video. as to the upper right bolt. It is everything they say it is and more. I tried the pass thru socket, tried flex neck gear wrench, tried the sparkplug socket gear wrench methods. none of them are easy but, my success came going over the top of the upper left bolt using the pass thru rachet and double stacking the 3/4 and 15mm sockets for a little more separation from the firewall. Again, thank you for a great reference.

Hello. Your video is good. I am an apprentice mechanic in Sinaloa, Mexico. I was able to remove it with a 15mm socket. greetings and encouragement

Yeah how about the sound deadening that is 1 piece all the up behind the dash to almost center hvac...edit: ZERO of the 4 nuts are visible until ypu remove factory sound deadening...it encapsulates the dust shield of booster on interior side. Maybe it's a ZR2 thing; who knows

Thanks for the tip on the top right nut really helped 👍👍👍

Be careful to not discount the vacuum line underneath the abs computer it goes to the vacuum canister in the fender and affects the HVAC. So if you do this job and the your heater and ac controls aren’t working properly reconnect the short vacuum line

Just used this video to help me replace mine, thank you very much sir.

Estoy pensando quitar mi boster de una bravada 96 ahora ya ví en tu vídeo como hacerlo gracias

I love the video it is very informative the only thing I'm having trouble with is the top right I was able to get the new brake booster into position and take the old one out but for some reason because the nut is at the end of the long screw thing it doesn't give me any room for my pastor wrench even though I have the smallest one that fits the bolt 🔩

What's the best way to remove the top right bolt from the inside?

The duralast pass through wrench from advanced Auto parts works a lot better with a straighter handle so you can go across the top to get that right hand nut it makes it a heck of a lot easier

Is there any adjusting to be done on the pin in the booster and the master cylinder? I keep reading about it but there’s no adjusting bolt for the booster I have for 2003 GMC Sonoma 4.3l.

Buddy you did such an amazingly detailed and easy to understand tutorial on this not so easy task that i had to subscribe. I have glanced at your other videos and they all seem interesting. Excellent job Buddy!!! I am looking forward to more content.

Great video Buddy! Easy to follow and very helpful.

Nicely done. Good camera shots. My new CRP 123 giving me left front speed sensor circuit open. Remanufactured transmission got one light off my dashboard. ABS next. 2000 Chevy S10 extended 4x4. Going to look for a video on it, possibly you did one. Thanks for your efforts, helps all DIY mechanics.

Han you elaborate on how take off the retaining pin? Mine does not so easily click on and off

Awesome video and deserves a subscribe! Gonna be doing this in a few days, unfortunately 😅

Any idea what a time frame for replace the brake booster is? I have to do my 2001 gmc jimmy 4.3l vortec so I’m assuming it’s the same.

When you plug the hose, how do you rule out that the problem could just be the brake booster check valve?

Got an o'reilly reman booster on an 08 trailblazer and the front brakes stay sightly engaged causing them too overheat. The pin seems too long and I didn't keep the pin out of the stock one since the reman is suppose to be a direct replacement. I'm going to try another one tomorrow but I feel like it's going to have the same issue. Can I grind down that pin? It's not adjustable at all anywhere on this thing.

you forgot a step, attaching the pedal to the booster

Hey man I really appreciate your video, the tips you shared with me on this job made it a lot easier for me thanks. 👍FINS UP 👍 👋😁

Thanks done mine today using this video

Thanks one ? did you have to cut out around it before getting to those bolts?

ill be trying this Friday

I have the same problem with my chevy blazer brake booster. Do i need to bleed the whole brake system after replacing it?

Great video brother. 👍🇺🇲

Good video sharp and to the point

98 s10 Bought with cut lines and non running Since have getting running moving and replaced everything (absolutely everything in the brake system but the abs module and booster) When the truck is off 1-2 pumps of the brakes get hard as a rock but when running it goes to the floor like there’s a cut line Yes I’ve bled it 9 times 4 different ways Bad Booster ?

Great video! It is a mess under that dash! Lol

Okay my brake booster sounded nothing like that but the pedal is getting stiff and I hear an air hissing noise when I step on the brakes any idea?

Is it similar for a 95 blazer??

Great job ❤

Great video! I am having a nightmare of a time trying to figure a soft pedal when running. no one here can figure it out. bleed the system over and over. even had the abs bleed out with a hand tuner, then had the pressure bleed done. still same. So im going to start replacing parts . Booster seems to work doing the remove vac pedal is hard . but put back on soft pedal to the floor. motor off 2 pumps pedal rock hard , so master test fine? everyone keeps still saying booster?

Great video please keep up the great work and please keep safe

Great break down. 👌

I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2. Any tips for getting the top right bolt off? There seems to be more in the way than non-ZR2 models.

Good video i have a 96 blazer i replace my brake booster my question is why my break pedal gets stuck after i warm the vehicle them i use my feet to release the pedal then it goes to normal it does not get stuck no more

Holy God damn fuck, that is insane, I'm not doing that. Jesus fucking Christ, dude, I'll stick with manual brakes. Thank you for posting this, before I started tearing shit apart.

thank you for the video. Qucik question i had changed my brake booster now it won't go into gear unless I put into netural in accessory mode first then start up. I haven't bleed the sysyem yet i will in the morning but can they possibly be the problem?

Who makes the pass through wrench?

OMG that is a frickin task to do!

Excellent!!!! Thanks

Great video bro thanks

super detailed video!

Anyone know if 1994 s10 blazer brake booster v6 4.3 li and the ones made for 1996 s10 blazer brake booster v6 4.3 li the same part?

Hey buddy, I have a question. I just purchased a used Chevy S10. And My brake pedal gets really hard when I start to drive. my brakes stick to the point where I can't move my truck. I've replaced brake lines front calipers and brakes. rear Cylinders and breaks and also the master cylinder. Is it a possibility that the brake booster is bad and that's why I am receiving this issue?

guestion the booster push rod that come out and pressing on back master cylinder is that thing real easy get out mine just pulls right out I don't think there that easy I'm working on 2000 blazer trying figure why my peddle real soft goes floor new master cylinder new pads new brake calipers bleed all wheels I'm thinking bad booster

Was the brake pedal spongy ?

excellent video but you never showed how to remove all the bolts

sir you did not show how you got to the upper right bolt under the dash

How long did the job take you?

You didnt show how to prime the master

You didn't connect the brake pedal

Tooken? I think you mean "taken " . ( in reply to your comment that was a reply to my comment that you must have deleted)

This is definitely not the same process on a 95 Blazer 4x4, way more brake lines in the way and there is some brackets making the interior bolts completely different to take off.