I’m a former GM Partsman. This video brings back some memories. One thing I’ll offer is this: If you ever go to a dealership to get a part and the parts person just walks to the shelf and puts it on the counter before you finish describing what you want THAT is a high failure item. GM had plenty.

I love the 99-06 full size GM products for their simplicity. They're inexpensive, easy to work on, and have great parts availability.

My dad has 2010 Tahoe he bought with 4k miles on it in 2011, and it’s currently at 340k miles. It is the most reliable truck I’ve ever seen. We live in The rust belt and have abused this truck every year sense we got it. I’ve pulled trees down with this thing and everything still works, even the fuel management! Really goes to show what proper maintenance and annual rust proofing can do RE: I just started driving this truck as my daily for college and work, and have put about a couple thousand on it. It sat for a bit so not much has changed but she still runs minty fresh. Burns a little oil but with this kinda mileage you expect the rings to be less than factory fresh. Have new quarter panels and rockers on the way to make it look brand new.

My Mom has my Grandparents old 2007 Tahoe LTZ. It’s got 430,000 (267,000 miles) kilometres on it and still going strong. Original engine and transmission. Only broke down once because it needed a new battery.

When someone says "don't modify your vehicle, the engineers know better..." I think of videos like this and realize they don't work on anything themselves.

I hope this is the start of a series, covering this same topic on a variety of cars. This is super valuable information that everyone can use. Thank you so much

Watching this guy is educational. I took notes so I can inspect my 2004 Burb and get items replaced if needed.

I have a 07 and almost everything you covered I've had to fix +5 broken headbolts, grrr now she has 260k miles. I got it 5yrs ago with 220k on her, I gave her all the love and now she is a joy to drive and road trip in.

I've had 2 Suburbans, and the passengers always break the knobs off on the rear seat AC/Heater controls. If you're cold or hot, turn the knob till it stops and then keep on going. Everyone knows twisting the knob off makes the heater or AC go into turbo mode.

Only 30 views and already 20 likes , that’s how you know there’s a lot of love for the wizard in the KZfaq car Community .

For the broken manifold bolts there is a company that makes a bracket you can bolt to the head and then clamps the manifold against the head. Not an ideal fix but if you’re on a budget it’s worth it

I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe and I love it! They aren’t overly complicated to work on yet I still dread doing the heater core replacement when the time comes. I bought it for $700 in 2020 with a blown transmission and thanks to KZfaq videos just like yours was able to rebuild it. Not perfectly I suspect and might live a shorter life span than a done professionally one but so far it drives. 😅

I used to be a Gm tech when these came out ... 1/2 ton chassis with 4l60 did hundreds of them and transfer cases especially if they are left in auto 4x4 mode.. stretch the chain which was 900 bucks if it didn't destroy the aluminum case. Rear axles I swear were made of glass.. among alot of Delphi electronic issues ... but majority of the issues is lack of maintenance

2:50 A long, LONG time ago when I worked in a parts store, I had a customer come in and buy an alternator and new battery. He installed it in the parking lot, came back in and said he wanted to return them because they didn't work. I went out there to check his install, and used a multi meter to check the wiring: The mega fuse had blown. We had one on the shelf, put that in, and it was fixed.

Thank you, Car Wizard, for sharing your experience and expertise on early 2000's Chevy SUVs. 👍👍

One thing worth mentioning when budgeting with these trucks are the typical idler, pitman arm deaths that in turn stress inner tie rods that then EAT front tires up. Just about every early 2k model that comes in has OVER a degree of play in their front steering linkage that leads to tire replacement every 6 months if not corrected. One of the most overlooked expenses we've had at our shop. Typically customers will ho through 2 sets of tires before realizing we arent trying to rip them off.

The only thing that stopped me from getting a 3rd gen Tahoe instead of my 4runner is of all 10 I have looked around, non of them are maintained properly. It seems like in bigger metro area people that buy these trucks never cared about common maintenance. I've seen oil as dark as coal, burnt transmission fluid that are dark brown, A/C overcharged to oblivion, and so much more. From all mechanics I've talked to, these trucks if maintained are the last generation of GM trucks that can *challenge* Toyota truck reliability. Yet there're people out there don't know where their transmission dipstick is, while the actual dipstick rusted off from the salt, along with the tube; there're people that changes their oil only when the oil light comes on. They're solid trucks, but lots of their owners aren't. Why people can't just treat their vehicle well.

1:40 Oil Pressure Sensor (Transducer) 2:45 Corroded connections on the Main Fuse (No Start) (07+ models) 3:39 Active Fuel Management (AFM) Failure (Lifter Failure) (07+ models) 5:14 A/C Belt Tensioner Failure 6:19 Coils, plugs, and wires 8:15 Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts 9:50 Knock Sensor Failure/Corrosion (00-06 models) 10:46 Instrument Cluster Stepper Motor Failure (mostly affects 03-06 models) 11:43 HVAC Blend/Recirculate Door Actuators 13:20 Transmission cooler line leaks 14:05 Oil Cooler Blockoff plate leaks 14:55 Oil pan gasket, rear main seal 15:05 Oil Pickup tube o-ring (low/no oil pressure) 15:46 Front differential Axle Seals 16:12 ABS module bad solder joints (00-06 more common) 17:12 4l60e go PNNNNNN Matt's Honorable mentions: - can't fill up with fuel -- clogged/failed evap cannister (fills evap system with charcoal). Replace the charcoal cannister, rear vent solenoid, and front purge solenoid. Also, clear all evap lines of charcoal pellets (shop vac works). When you fill up with gas, the air in your tank needs to be displaced. The evap system is supposed to manage this, but when clogged with charcoal pellets, the air tries to go back out through the filler hose, triggering the fuel filler to think your tank is full and turn off. - stuttering idle -- leaking intake manifold gaskets, leaking valve cover to intake manifold hoses. If the hose feels loose on the intake manifold tube, its likely leaking. This leak will cause a poor idle. - Clunking when braking/accelerating -- motor mounts. the stuttering idle above can exacerbate this problem by causing excessive wear on the motor mounts. This can cause clunking under acceleration as your engine/transmission shifts around - excessive body rolls -- front sway bar link is broken/missing. - low speed vibration -- ujoints on the driveshaft are bad - slow cool leak/drip from front of motor -- water pump is going out. weep hole is leaking to indicate as such probably missing some other good ones, but those are off the top of my head. I've owned a 2000 & 2008 Tahoe, as well as a 2006 suburban 2500. gmt800 is by far the best platform. the gmt900's have some improvements, but the addition of things like AFM and cheaper interior plastic really hurt that platform. Thanks for the video Wizard!

Even my dad's 2003 Dodge Ram had an overdrive button. Same deal with those, don't haul anything heavy in overdrive. It may be a small non descript button on the side of the gear selector lever but it is always a good idea to know how to use it and when to use it. Then you won't burn up a transmission every few years!!

Most all of those problems I can take care of myself, the transmission, I have rebuilt a few, but those are a little more complicated than the ones I have rebuilt, the GM TH 200, 350 and 400. Those are much easier than the over drive units. It's really good to know about all the problems those have, I am considering buying one, around a 2004, Tahoe. Very informative, and educational, thank you sir, I realize this is kind of old, still very helpful.

I have a 2002 Suburban that I purchased new. It turned 20 yrs old this last month.I have over 265K on it. While i have had some of these issues, I still drive it every day. Runs great!

How sad that the fuel saving system sounds like a good thing at first...but at the cost of the engine's reliability

I have a 2004 and that transmission has served me well. Every time I connect a trailer it goes into tow/hall mode. That trans no has over 295k on it. I change the fluid every 2 years. I love it. I have also changed the cluster. All break lines, fuel lines, hvac components like blend doors. The vehicle has never left me sit.

Thanks for super informative and concise vids! They are perfectly edited!

We had the abs fail on our Yukon and I found a place on eBay that rebuilt it for me for under $200. This was back 15+ years ago! Great info Wizard!

When my lifter stuck in mine i went ahead and replaced all of these at once and not 10,000 miles later the transmission ate itself like you said. I’m getting ready to rebuild it but I’m really glad you made this video because now I know about the overdrive thing. No one ever told me that.

Keep the good info coming Car Wizard. Thank you ! All the problems Car Wizard has mentioned have been issues of my Tahoe at one time or another But at 330,000 actual miles , it still doesn’t burn oil . I am slowly but surely replacing worn out parts. I would rather go that route as opposed to buying another suv , period. GM built a decent truck / suv from 2006 and beyond

One of the most common things you didn't mention is intake gaskets causing lean codes. When it happens I change the intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, knock sensors and harness. Usually around 100k and the tune up is easy to do at the same time. Also at 100k I will recommend water pump (they all will be leaking by then), serpentine belt(s), and both tensioners. Good under the hood for another 100k!

'07 GMC Sierra in the family since new w/ 296,000 miles now. Most of the failures were covered in this video; Oil pickup o-ring, oil pressure sensor, cam cover gaskets, oil cooler lines, and new front axles/wheel bearings. Other than that it's been an incredible truck and never left us stranded. I love that it's still simple enough that I can do all the repairs myself.

All this info is GOLD and the Wizard shares it with us for free. Anyone with a tool set and half a clue is now one step ahead for watching this video. Hats off to you Mr. Wizard. As per others recommendations, you should name this and make it an ongoing miniseries. Truly priceless information here.

I also learned that if you drive with the transmission in the manual selection and have second to last/highest gear selected, the AFM is deactivated. Again, the amount of fuel burned is worth the internal parts failure repair and down time, or even worse, sitting on the side and waiting for a tow.

I have one of these that I love more than my other newer cars! For sentimental reason I do not get rid of. Oil all over, dashboard lights on, driver seat won’t go forward, locks get weird at times. Ac switch. Most of what you pointed out. I love how it runs even with all that. I refuse to let it go. Idk where to start on my suburban issues but this video is definitely helpful. Thanks for sharing!

I really like this format of reviewing/sharing common vehicle failures in hopes that others can become more knowledgeable of the kinds of problems they may experience and what things to keep an eye on so they can better prepare to budget for these repairs when they happen. Am looking forward to future episodes where the Wizard can share his experience/expertise on other common makes and models. Nice work! Cheers

This is some phenomenal stuff. One of my favorite most informative videos I've seen. I'm sure more than one person has posted something like this and it is well deserved.

Best video ever. I got a 2007 had oil sensor fail and thanks to you managed to sort it out. Much love from Sweden

My 04 Suburban had the knock sensor fail, so I tied the failed rear one to the good front one. Works like a champ!

Wise advice on towing. Up in Canada, the big problem is rusty brake lines. You will need to replace them. And make sure you check and service your exposed spare and its storage and lowering mechanism. People always ignore them and find they can’t fix a flat.

Thank you Car Wizard for your patience and words of wisdom, I’ve always helped out the best I could with friends and family in spite of my cancer and all the failed back spinal surgeries and pain it takes to keep up with my 05 silverado. I truly wished we had more human beings out there like you, but it’s unfortunately hard to find someone like yourself, one you could really count on for close honest advice. Keep up the great work you are an inspiration for every diy mechanic looking to save a few dollars to help stretch their budgets in these weird uncertain times. The days of helping one and other are gone I’m afraid.

Thanks Wizard! This video was very helpful. I have many of these symptoms on my 2005 Chevy Tahoe. This was very reassuring. Thanks!

I own a 2000 and 2003 Subrban and a 2007 Yukon. They have been largely reliable until recently but they are high mileage vehicles. Currently dealing with an oil leak, AC blowing hot, misfiring, two with transmission issues, and an instrument cluster failure. You pretty much covered it all in this excellent video. Thanks!

Surprised by the lack of calling the 4L60E by it's commonly know nickname, "A box of neutrals" 😂😂😂

You make some of the most helpful videos. I have a 2004 gmc with the 5.3. I had multiple issues from this video that answered what I needed to do on my own truck. Probably saving me thousands. Thank you wizard! You deserve your success.

Trials and tribulations of auto mechanics are unsurpassed by any other means love your videos straight to the point with no BS. I can't count how many GM's I've done all of this to I guessed it there to keep us busy

Hey Wizard I’m a old fan here that’s been following your channel cents 2013 or 2014 I believe. I’m off & on watching your videos and I Enjoy every minute of them..

Almost everything you have mentioned i have replaced on my 2002 Tahoe 4x4 Just had the oil pickup tube o-ring and pan gasket replaced as mine is at 176k. Have heard horror stories of people not replacing that part and when they get near the 200k mark they fail and start sucking air and trash the motor. Would have done it myself but I don't have the tools to lower the front differential. Up next for me is the differential seals as they are leaking. These trucks last forever if you take care of them. I would much rather have my 02 Tahoe then a new 2022 Tahoe that has lots more electronics that can fall.

I always look forward to the “Bob Ross of mechanics” dropping a new video.. Love you man.

I have to hand it to you Wizard, you nailed it. I have already had, and repaired every one of your points except AFM (2001 doesn't have it), trans cooler lines, and 4l60E. But ALL the other things you mentioned failed on my 2001 Tahoe before 150,000 miles.

i just subscribed brother i love ur videos. i picked up an 06 Lm7 Lt3 z71 almost a year ago and there’s small things here n there like some u mentioned but other than that it hasn’t left me stranded. i’m also navy so i drive back n forth from base to my folks when i can. keep up the great work

My old 2000 GMC 2500 with the 6.0 was a great truck with the only foible being the separate AC belt that would break once a year. Agree with the AFM debacle. Had it happen on a later Suburban resulting in a bad lifter and a bent pushrod. Did the work myself but lost confidence in those engines. I have 2 Corvettes over 40 years old on the original engine builds and those days are long gone I'm afraid.

I really like these kinds of videos - covering the “whats going to beeak on xyz vehicle”. Super helpful. Please do more. Especially with all the “must buy electric” stupidity occuring right now - older gas cars are going to need people keeping them on the road longer and longer.

Great video! Over the 2 years I've had my 2008 Tahoe LS, a couple things I've had to fix that I found was VERY COMMON are the Heater Hose fittings against the front firewall and the issue with the charcoal canister failing and spewing pellets all throughout your air venting system on the fuel tank. WHEN that heater hose fitting fails, you'll notice you're losing a little bit of coolant at first and you might not even be able to see where it's coming from, but it will get worse FAST and you'll see coolant spraying from the fitting on the left, most of the time. They're a pain in the butt to get to, but replace BOTH of them. If you're a person who likes to "top off" the gas tank, STOP IMMEDIATELY. Somehow, gas gets backed up into the charcoal canister and destroys the netting that holds those pellets in place and then those pellets get spewed all over your fuel tank's venting system. IF you're lucky, you can vacuum the pellets out from the hose connections at the cannister, but if you're at the point where the fuel pump shuts off every few seconds, you're gonna have to drop the fuel tank and vacuum and blow out all of those lines. I have a video on my channel about how to do that. Overall, I love my Tahoe, tho. First truck for me and it's totally worth it.

Just purchase an 02 Tahoe the information you just gave is absolute Paramount to a person is not a mechanic such as myself I appreciate the heads-up and I bet there is a lot more but for now I do appreciate it. Everything you mentioned as a non mechanic I believe I can do myself thanks again.

I got 2 miles down the road from the house with the camper and realized I forgot to put it in tow/haul mode. I flipped it on at the traffic light and my wife started freaking out cause she saw the light come on 🤣 I had to explain to her what I did. I think I lost 1/2 a MPG on my trip compared to not pulling the camper.

Love the glasses man. You are 100% correct on your points. I’ve been in auto parts for over a decade and I thank God for the GM full size variants. They keep my doors open. Never knew about the overdrive on the 4L60s. That’s great information to have. You didn’t mention the vapor canisters back at the gas tank or the solenoid under the hood. I’ve sold a bunch of those over the years. Great channel. Been watching for years now. TTYL ✌️

Great video! Yep, my hand is up with the ABS light. Will try to get to the box soon to resolder it. I have a 2002 Suburban with the 5.3L engine. Knock sesnors were bad on it. Replaced and still bad so I got another set and installed them on passenger side engine head. There are two hole perfect for the knock sensors.

Good video but a corrections suggested- 2006 5.3L has AFM I own one. The solution is to have it disabled in a tune mod by skilled personnel like PCM of NC. The biggest issue is that some of the oil that operates the AFM gets into the cylinders ruining the catalytic converters over time and that will happen in cases where it otherwise appears to be functioning, not outright failing. It also fowls the plugs in the cylinders where it’s worse. There is virtually no fuel savings from AFM from the measurements I before and after the feature was turned off. Good tips throughout, thanks.

I actually took notes being that in my family there are at least 4 of these and guess who they call. Now I can say sure let me look. Thanks Wizard 👍

Great video, thanks Wizard! We bought a 2007 Escalade this year. I don't like buying a first model year, but this meant I could get a 6.2 without any of the AFM hardware. We bought it because it's quiet and comfortable, but being based on a Silverado should hopefully last a long time. I had to do a few things to it when we first got it, which I understand are common - replace an engine mount, new front wheel bearings/hubs, brakes all around, spark plugs and wires. It's a really easy vehicle to work on, and has been great in the time that we've had it.

Awesome and value filled video! Only thing I can think of is the air suspension compressor goes out frequently and gives a service suspension code. Imma go look at my 07 Escalade and check out the stuff mentioned!

Hoovie sent me here. A good day.. I have 50+ years in the trade and I enjoy these videos. . Wizard is a no nonsense kind of a guy.

Got a 2004 GMC SIERRA 5.3 with 315,000 plus....besides regular maintenance parts, two alternators, three water pumps, one knock sensor and one oil sending unit she still runs great! Not sure why but a few of the relays were failing....replaced all relays...all good now! 👍

As a long time GMC / Chevy owner this was absolutely spot on. These are still great vehicles and I have had dozens in my fleet hit 350,000 miles. I have a 2008 Avalanche in the shop right now for a AFM delete. My shop loves and hates me.

Really liked the tip on the transmission when hauling. Thats the trailer icon button to be used

I have a 2006 GMC Envoy with the 5.3, the Oil Pressure Sensor failed at about 70k miles, but you are able to reach back there and replace it without taking the manifold off. Shop wanted something like $450 to do it, luckily I was able to buy the part and a full mechanics socket set for only $300ish

*This is a great video Wizard. I did a lot of research before buying my 2010 Ford Explorer V8 and the first maintenance items I took care of right away was an oil change, replace the fluid of the transfer case and differential.*

I know a transmission shop owner who has upgraded GM 4L60E transmissions to the 4L80E for a few hundred dollars more and it solves the problems with the 4L60E transmission. The extra cost is usually because of the different wiring harness adapters and different U joints or Yokes.

I bought a 2005 black Z71 suburban with - 110K and the underbody looked almost pristine. All the different metals had there original colorings (was in Minnesota for the bulk of it's life) a dealer guy was kind to print the options details for me. This truck had almost all, if not all the options available at the time. I thought this was a good candidate for restore since the interior was in very good to excellent condition. I definitely have some of the things going on that you went over. and I do have a moderate oil leak. I will look at all you suggestions as I am Mech. inclined! I had three quarters and rockers done since the molding package was concealing fender rot. But this truck is rock tight and solid. No rattles and all doors close beautifully! Thank you for this video!

I've got a 2004 avalanche. I'd like to add vapor canister and/or its purge solenoid to the list. Anyone else who has spent 20+ minutes at a gas station struggling to pump 1/3 of a gallon at a time will know exactly what I'm talking about. 😡

Up until early-mid 2000K's was peak Chevy/GM. Good solid reliable easy to work on yourself trucks. And those 'Like A Rock' commercials are stuck in my head to this day. Would love to see a review on the GMT 400 platforms 88-98. Still see them on the road daily from Suburbans to Yukons Sierras and Silverado/Cheyennes. Think Hoovey just bought a nice one recently as well.

Your stuff's great and very concise this video on the 2,000 plus GMC products was great man

Awesome video so thank you for making it. My friend just gave me his cherry 2002 Suburban 1500 LT which runs awesome and when it’s at idle I have to look at the tach to make sure it’s running since it’s so quite. It has 262k but you’d never know by how great of shape it’s in and how much torque it has and doesn’t smoke a bit when I get on it. Actually blown away on how quick it is for being so heavy. I bought new spark plug wires, front running light lenses and other easy to replace items. I better do the cable ends on the firewall and replace the tensioner.

Got all of them except 3 I have dealt with quite often. Gas cap seals setting off the evap code. The brake light switch failure that causes the cruise to turn off... all the time. Leaf springs, notorious for breaking.

I would like to add that another thing to cause the oil pressure sending unit to fail on the earlier models is the little screen they put in gets clogged and won't let oil get to sending unit, also, you can slightly decrease the change of breaking a spark plug wire with making a few full rotations with the wire on the plug, and can't forget the PCV valve failures, but I thoroughly enjoyed learning a few more things, love your content

Thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge. Items you predicted correctly on my 09 Tahoe-- Blend door….check. Oil pressure issue….check. Oil leak…..check. Oil pickup tube O ring……check. Previous owner replaced coils and plugs. Tranny is beginning to shudder when going from coasting to adding power again at speed.

Awesome video. Just helped me diagnose and most likely fix 3 issues with my 02 tahoe. Thank you. Liked and subscribed.

I bought a 2007 Tahoe with the 5.3 new for my wife. It has 120k miles. I have replaced a lot of the parts you talk about, but I maintain all my vehicles, and I trust my mechanic. He knows I will say go ahead and do it. But really its been super reliable. I have offered to replace it for my wife several times she says, "No, its reliable" I think the key is keeping up with issues so its not one big bill.

The dashboards in the 2007-2014 was more brittle than a dollar store candy cane. i've never seen one that wasn't cracked to pieces. Also, the airbag sensors on the front grille are notorious for cracking and shorting out. I owned 2 vehicles (06 sierra and 08 tahoe) both with the same issue.

Thanks Wizard, I have a 247,000 mile 2009, I’ve taken care of most of what you said, will look into the ABS sensor and oil pressure sending unit. For most daily driving & towing, I leave the gear selector in “5th” never leaves v8 mode, saves on trans shifting. How did I miss this 5 months ago? Oh ya, was under my burban on the weekends….

gauge clusters have issues on these and not just the oil pressure issue he mentioned. they also go through brakes very quickly likely just due to the weight of the vehicle. the transmission one is very true but there are lots of different possible points of failure on them. great video car wizard.

I'm just going to start knocking on wood. 2008 suburban with 230k miles, honestly been one of the most reliable vehicles I've owned. Only thing we've had to do other than normal maintenance items is the rear end axel seals had to be replaced. Almost any vehicle can be reliable if you take maintenance seriously.

Love this episode! love these series of gmc / Chevy I would only add to just carry a scan tool in the glove box. Way easier to reset when you get thrown into limo mode than a battery reset. Smoothest easiest series of vehicle to constantly fix!!

A good video, great commentary and explanations. I have a 2000' S10 with the 4 cylinder and its close to 170K miles, it's only run occasionally and had been my Dad's knock around truck for brush and mulch. The fuel pump sender died 4 years ago, I blew it off and just kept gas in the tank. And then one day, she wouldn't start, I couldn't hear the pump priming. Sure enough the fuel pump/sender unit had failed completely, a common S10 issue. Luckily it was in the driveway, I had bought one when the sending unit died, and the weather was wonderful for about a week. I replaced it myself by jacking up the front of the bed. Like the vehicle you referenced today, she also has the random ABS/Brake light alerting at the same time. Sometimes all you have to do is hit a bump in the road and it comes on. Or hit a bump and it goes off (HAH!). The oil dipstick seal seems to be leaking (gotta change that), possibly the valve cover gasket leaks, and the rear diff input seal is weeping (gotta change that). Did change out the U-joints about 10 years ago with MOOG units, no issues since. The AC compressor seized last summer and before it gets warm I need to replace it (along with the condenser and dryer) and have parts in-hand (along with a well used set of gauges and vacuum pump, I've done a bunch of AC work for my family and friends, learned how in the Navy). I don't tow anything and the trans seems okay, it does take 15-20 sec to build up pressure, kinda lags a little after starting, but no slipping (yet). It's only had the filter changed once. As you've noticed, and I've read online in chats, GM sure does like repeating the same mistakes across models... Thanks for posting your video.

One thing that I have found on this particular model and year of Silverado and Tahoe is that all of the plastic on the dash and the knee bolsters turn into glass basically. The minute you go to try to take it apart after they age the plastic just shatters in your hand we tell customers that if we have to take their dash apart expect to have to pay for replacement parts

I'm perfectly happy with my 1986 and 1996 GM vehicles. They still going!

man i still remember this guy wizard man i dropped out of college to pursue my car selling dreams. this guy was sanding down a mustang i love you wizard.

👍 This is one of The Best videos on car maintenance I have watched in a long time. I'm bringing my car to you for fixing. 🙃

You missed the hard brake lines. On 06 back, at least, the hard brake lines rust out and then what happens? You push the brake pedal and the fluid goes pssst out the nice hole. I had a 2000 Yukon XL and one would pop and then I'd fix that one, then another and fix and another. All of them ended up being replaced. This is why you can go into any auto parts store and get complete brake line kits for these. I'm in the salt belt so those southern trucks likely won't have this issue.

Great video wizard- Have a 03 Tahoe with 280k miles, so far so good. Oil pan replace, AC compressor and instrument panel. LOVE IT though

I've done most of the things mentioned. Working on the actuators soon. Changed the AT already too. Plenty might go wrong, most are fixable by the common guy. I plan to keep it for as long as possible because no truck or full size SUV is worth 80+ thousand dollars. I can change a lot of parts on my old truck for a fraction of that.

Thank you for the video with just straight forward info. I purchased a 2004 Yukon XL with the 5.3. I definitely have the oil pressure sender issue, and my abs activates when slowing down to 5mph until i stop. And a couple broken manifold bolts on each side. Minor details thankfully.

Missed a few things... Radiators in any GM vehicle of this era tend to stress crack in the side tanks, usually around 150k-175k miles. Can't even begin to guess how many GM radiators I've replaced due to this. Will be doing my own here in a few days as well lol. Another 4L60e failure that isn't really the transmissions fault (although it isn't the best design either) is the sun shell in them. When people shift from reverse to drive without bringing the vehicle to a stop first (such as when they are backing out of a parking spot and then throw it in drive while it is still rolling backwards), it tends to lead to a failure of the sun shell. It'll either crack at the base of the splines or the splines get physically stripped off of it. Also, the plastic on both the interior and exterior door handles tend to break on the GMT800 (1999-2006) platform as well. The exterior handles people tend to pull them up and out when opening the door which fatigues the plastic. The interior ones have a structurally narrow point in the plastic and when they break they almost always break off right at the base of the handle. The plastic GMT800 truck tailgate handles are extremely common to break. They may have some quirks but the 90's and early 2000s (up to 2006/7) GM trucks are the pinnacle of GM trucks and overall pretty well built. I have a GMT800 yukon xl that is rare and sought after due to it being a 3/4 ton with the 8.1L aka 496 big block in it. People try to buy it off me all the time. The answer is always "not for sale". I tow 7k lbs with it literally almost everyday (it has the 4l85e transmission, which is much stronger than the 4l60e). Even as a heavy hauler it is extremely reliable and I'm not about to give it up.

I bought a 04 Suburban Z71 a little over a year ago and it's been great. There are a handful of issues but it's mostly little things. I honestly enjoy having the small projects. I get to learn of to fix it as I go along and so far I've had a 100% success rate. I feel that this year GM trucks were the last generation that was built to last. As long as you can keep them from rusting and treat them good they'll be good to you and your family. I love the body style also. The newer ones (07+) just don't have the handsome looks of the older generations. Long live the GMT-800!

I have a 2002 Silverado LT that I inherited from my dad , and a 2003 Tahoe I purchased from my brother. Both of these were purchased new by my family members and have been garage kept in the south since new. I have found these factors to be a major reason that I don't have most of the problems in the video. I'm amazed at the corrosion I see under the hood when I watch videos like this.

2004 Burb here and your recommendations are spot on! 😊

Keep the content coming, thanks Wizard!

2009 Suburban here with 6.0L with 245k miles. Both hub assemblies went out at 105k. Also that pesky little bushing for gear shift linkage....10 cent part will leave you stranded. GREAT synopsis. Thanks for the video

Thanks for the helpful video! 2007 here with only 150K on it. Only had 1of these issues, but it's helpful to know what to bolo for. I did have the cruise control switch, under the pedals fail & now my driver window is getting stuck & either won't go down or getting stuck open. Other than that, no real problems. Oh & the wearing away of the pictures on the HVAC controls, which I see they make stickers to replace & just bought a set.

We have 215k miles on our 04 Yukon Denali 6.0 engine, Still running strong but have dealt with a few of the issues you talk about. I'm letting the knock sensor repair go as it doesn't seem to really be a problem other than having a check engine light on. I just replaced the water pump and both the A/C belt and fan belt. Recently did rear brakes too. We had a cracked flywheel at around 195k miles, so had that replaced and did the leaking rear main seal at the same time for $800 incl parts. A few things you didn't mention that commonly go out or break are the air ride suspension systems, window wash reservoirs crack and no longer hold washer fluid, fuel sending units. Our PRNDL has been out a long time, but no big deal. Will buy a whole new gauge cluster if we have any more issues. I enjoy your videos, keep it up!

The wheel bearings on 1500's seemed to go quite frequently. I worked at an AutoZone that stocked 10 of them at a time

We have an 03 Yukon Denali that we’ve owned since brand new and it has been the most reliable vehicle we have ever owned. I can count on one hand the times we have had to replace or fix a broken part. Of course we maintain the vehicle and don’t beat on it. It still looks and drives like new with 156k miles on it.