Happy it helped

I did not show putting on the gasket, but I did mention putting it on right after talking about putting silicone on the pump side only. Thanks for subscribing.

Happy you found the video useful

@@ron12april I own 2 classics with the '70 /'75 derivatives of the Chevrolet 4.1 ' stovebolt 6' . These were exceptionally robust motors and really popular, firmly cementing the 'legend' of Chevrolet in the fabric of the South African farming community and the nation as a whole. In the latter years AMC added the 4.1 Chevrolet drivetrain to their highly succesful and innovately styled Rambler Hornet sedan and sportabout range. One can hardly believe that the market here in the early '50's accomodated healthy competition between the Hudson and GM /Chevrolet with Chevrolet ultimately tipping the scales. Interesting history.

Thanks for the bit of history!

Happy you found the video useful

@@ron12april yessir and hit the sub button

Thanks for the info

Thanks for your comment. Lots and lots of discussion regarding whether glass in line fuel filters are safe or not. My take away so far is that glass itself doesn't usually break but the threads and cap holding O ring failing tends to be an issue. My install seems to be secure, vibration is minimized by the long fuel line with multiple turns and rubber connectors, and unlike injection systems, this mechanical fuel pump only puts out about 5 psi. Nonetheless I am considering switching to a metal in line filter.

Rock Auto lists the following part numbers for either the 230 or 250 cu in L6 (same block) pre 1966 with screw type without anti-smog Carter: M3530 Delphi MF0073 1966 on stamped steel with anti-smog Carter: M4503 Delphi MF0051

@@ron12april thank you so much for the quick reply and help! Have a good one!

The double flare fitting fits into an "inverted flare" fitting. Should be available at local auto supply or amazon.

Also, replaced the fuel pump, the line from pump to carb and still struggling to get fuel to carb. Steves nova site has too much spam for me to inquire there. Thanks.

The fuel pump I used and cited in the video has a replaceable filter on the inlet built in. (Between fuel tank and pump). The set up I describe only uses electric fuel pump to fill float bowl for initial start. Not sure why you are having trouble with normal flow but addition of this electric fuel pump will not change things. Check out the fuel line from tank to pump. It should be free draining. If it is you might have a bad mechanical fuel pump. Even a brand new pump can be bad. (Ask me how I know)!

Yes. No push rod

I was hoping to find this question was asked. Thank you for that. Thank you to both of you.

Since the motor oil smells like gas, that is a pretty good guess. It would indicate a torn diaphragm. That being the case I would think you might notice other symptoms like loss of power. The fuel could also flow back into the gas tank if the fuel pump valves leak some. But, that would not result in motor oil smelling like gas.

No. Fuel pump arm rides directly on cam

Thanks Ron I had the same question!

Not sure about source for rebuild parts, but complete fuel pumps are readily available from usual sources like rockauto.com

ok I saw your post below, no push rod just insert and bolt it down is that right?

With the old straight six there is no push rod for the fuel pump. The lever rests directly on cam. I think even the early v8 engines did use a push rod between the cam and pump

@@ron12april Thanks Ron!

From the engine codes this is a 250 cu in from a 1968 chevy. The truck is a 1965 C10

No push rod. Only goes on one way

Can’t get mine installed the rocker arm won’t let it in

@@skylergoins9052 same how did you resolve it?

From Rock Auto for 1965 Chevy C10 with L6 Engine Early model die cast screw without anti-smog: Carter: M3530 DELPHI MF0073 Later model stamped steel with anti-smog CARTER M4503 DELPHI MF0051