Rose Moon your welcome. It's always small maintenance problems that cause 90% of the break down. Glade I could help you.

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Matthew Nielsen thank you, glade I could help with you problem.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n96drbynvtqRc2Q.html

Thank you. I was looking for part 2. Wish you tube would have had it listed right after part 1. Thanks for the videos. Big help.

I wish they would to or I get it set up that way. Your welcome, glad I could help.

Glad this video could help.

Your welcome.

Glade i could help.

Thank you. I put up some new videos now. Hopefully you are a subscriber and was notified.

Your welcome.

Glad it helped.

Glad you liked it. 👍

Guillermo garcia 👍

Guillermo garcia BH b VH but the

Not sure what your talking about. I think I do, if I'm thinking the same it is just a design difference.

@@ChilesHeatCool, you have it. It's like spray gun painting with the fan tip and trying to only hit the holes. means you're going to miss the holes and hit in between the holes as well with the paint. Pretend that the flame is the paint. it will smack in between the holes and maybe that's what lowers the efficiency from 96 to 92 SE what do you think?

The inducer draws the flames in the hole. When it comes to efficiency they take everything in to account. A 96% furnace burns at 90% efficiency but gets more efficiency added due to being 2 stage and having shorter ignition time and using a psc motor for the inducer, and variable speed blower. Rheem is the only one I know that uses a plate burner.

Daniel Rodriguez possibly no power or the thermostat. Set the fan switch on the thermostat to on, if nothing happens the furnace may have no power. Check the door switch or main power disconnect.

ChilesHeatCool Thank you. I will test the Thermostat. Does the furnace have a door switch , kind of like a dryer? Won’t start unless cover is on?

Daniel Rodriguez yes it does, it's a push button switch in the blower compartment. If the door isn't on right it will act as a safety to keep the furnace from running.

ChilesHeatCool sounds like that may be a factor. I will give that a look as well. Appreciate all your help, quick response, and videos. 🔥👍🏼

Daniel Rodriguez your welcome, I am glade I can help people out with these videos.

Lots of factors are involved in deciding equipment size.

@@ChilesHeatCoolthank you for your responded. Can you call out few name that I can check.. thank you.

Check out goodman equipment. I put that in my house. Trane is nice to or American standard.

The reading should be microamps. If it reads zero, it should be cleaned first and inspect the burners. If the front of the burner is dirty it will effect the current flow. If those are cleaned (using scotch brite pad not anything abrasive) it could be a bad sensor which you could ohm out from end to end with your meter on ohms. If it reads zero ohm and no cracks in the ceramic than it is good unless it is bad still, but you would have to put a new one in to make sure. After that, if the furnace has lost ground or is not grounded properly that would cause it to go off on flame safety. I think L1 on the board with one meter lead and one on ground. With the door switched pushed in you should read 120 volts. If not the furnace needs grounding. If you read voltage than it is possible the board or IFC has gone bad and would need replacing.

ChilesHeatCool you are awesome. Thank you

Jeremy Quezada yes it is one possibility. My whole furnace service video series here goes through the flame sensor and pressure switch port witch could be 2 possible problems.

Yes

Jeremy Quezada yes it is possible. Following my video can help. If not it's a dirty burner, board, or pressure switch.

Just a guess make theres a crack in the igniter? Im still a student so im curious to know this too !!!

Ok lawuhbiding citizen: found out what the problem was. I just couldn't find the problem that was in front of my FACE. Had to call someone and they had to send out the old man to fix it. The new guys at first kept telling me "its a clogged jet" I kept telling them no it was not because I could put a lighter to it and it would keep the flame, but when it turned off, it would not relight. So things that were done until the problem was found. 1. removed the plate and kinda cleaned it and removed some of the rust. 2. clean the flame sensor 3. checked all the wires 4. found that the fan was stuck so put some grease on the fan and it released. 5.reset the furnace by turning it off on the breaker then on 6. checked the gas line, yes was getting gas. 7. cleaned the gas jet not working to see if it was clogged. YEP clear 8. removed the arm with the gas jets and cleaned that. YEP clear The problem was that the dang plate! It tunnels the gas to the flame sensor and ignitor. The rust on the plate was too much and I didn't clean it good enough. The fix it guys took a wire angle brush and made it shine. The rust on the plate was not allowing the gas to flow and disburse at the end of the plate to the other side and was blocking the flow to the ignitor and flame sensor. So, the problem was the plate! I didnt clean it off good enough! 175$ lesson. @@lawuhbidingcitizen7736

clean the burners and the orifice.

I'm glad I could help. Periodically clean the sensor until the microamp reading is too low that cleaning won't help.

Yes it is. I always hated the. Rheem had some of the worst and tight locations.

Only if you have a mulox plug pin puller. If you dont have that tool then you risk dammage to the plug and would have to get a new wire harness. Now if it was not in that plug, yes it would be easier to test there. Remember to that if you unplug the mulox plug at the board, you open the limit circuit and the furnace wont run.

Never heard of that being done before.

Got to show the whole procedure. If you dont know what to do, you cant do. Glade you like the video.

If you re subscribed to my channel, you should be notified about a bunch of new and informational videos on troubleshooting.

BigJulie we have always said, probly due to the engineers who design it never have to work on it.

Dont know what you clicked on, sorry cant tell. It might be part 1 of the furnace service video series. I go over were it is, microamp readings, were the screws are. Sorry, furnaces can be dangerous so I wanted to have details.

solarsynapf GT ygse by j hi ok LPP

Right. Check out my new videos.

vladek vladinov nope, incomplete combustion causes carbon monoxide. I've had furnaces I've suspected of cracks in the heat exchanger and they put out 0 ppm of co. Hard to prove a bad furnace with dancing flames and no co to some home owner's.

ChilesHeatCool the reason why you are not getting any co reading. Because you are checking at the registers. But if you check the draft you will never find 0 ppm. Please check this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oJtyosZlxL-6oWQ.html

You can’t make an omelette without breaking eggs. Thanks for sharing. Your videos are good quality

vladek vladinov ah yes in the vent system you can pick up some. I see what you are saying and yes you can get readings there. The registers are in side and that the more important part.

Can't on some furnaces. The wire in a mulox plug cant be disconnected to test. Some furnaces you can but not all.