Can you advise? Trying to fix my daughter's furnace. Our furnace guy is too busy. It's not high efficiency like the one in this video. The motor in the "draft inducer" blower motor burnt out. Got a replacement from Amazon yesterday. The original blower housing has a small 3/32" steel tube port for a silicone tube that goes to the pressure sensor. The new blower doesnt have that port so I made one with a rivit nut and a hollow 1/4-20 screw but the pressure switch doesnt click. I assumed that since the port is outside the squirel cage wheel, the pressure switch must sense positive pressure. It doesn't; it senses vacuum! When I suck on the disconnected tube to the pressure switch, the furnace comes on. I dont know how there's a vacuum inside the blower housing but outside the squirel cage. Maybe there's some kind of bernouli thing going on. The blower mounts to the exhaust of the hot box. Its outlet is blowing vertically upward to the chimney at a tangent to the squirel cage at the 9 o'clock position. The vacuum port on the old blower was on top at the 12 o'clock position. I didnt think that position mattered so I installed my new port at the 3 o'clock position. The smoke from a blown-out candle is not deflected by my new port when the blower comes on. I'm about to install a 2nd port at the 12 o'clock position today. Do you think it will work?

@@Bluuplanet Since this was 9 days ago, I assume you got it figured out. Pressure switches should be called NEGATIVE pressure switches or vacuum switches. I cannot think of a single furnace (except the Lennox Pulse) that monitors any kind of positive pressure. The placement of the port on the housing would be critical.

@@chrisdeanndavison3626 Its operational but not fixed yet. Furnace man was swamped; said if we could get it running any way, do that and he's coming when he's got time. I figured the switch was negative when I had to suck on the tube to make the furnace run. Since it's a brand new blower, it's dependable till he fixes it so I shorted the N-pressure sw for now. Think I got the port in the same place but it's about 5/16" OD and the original was about 1/8" OD.

Could you possibly help me my husband nobody Will help us HVAC is trying to make us pay a shit ton of money

@@Theclassyburito no I'm good I'm happy with the man I'm with he works his ass off

Awesome God bless

Thank you! It works!

Awesome, happy to help!

You aren't kidding; I know how to do this stuff, figured it out... and told the service man what I thought ... and it was .. since I was there.. I knew what was done. His boss called as he was about to leave... I don't think they can charge me anything extra on that.... lets see and I'll let you know. I had getting abused by the "industry" that's why I like to learn through great videos like this and my probing and asking my logical questions. I knew it couldn't a senso on my problem but at least I had a dialog at a counter and basically told them that I know something about this stuff.. ;).

@@samsno3667 you also arent taking the liability, you negate the truth that the liability of an old furnace is enough for big companies to find it more advantageous to just replace them. say they leave and your heat exchanger cracks a day or a month later, now he is at risk for being sued or potentially at risk for your dead body in the middle of the night. i dont agree with them, but i also see the side of taking all responsibility for everything after you look at it. once i touch it, it becomes my problem. and if im going to touch 2-5000 pieces of equipment a year we need to limit my ability to be sued. continuing to fix old shit is the polar opposite of that.

​@asbestosfibers1325 If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The old sh*t is a whole lot better than Chinese sh*t.

😅😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮

@@asbestosfibers1325 a cracked heat exchanger falls under an act of God unless it comes to the customer that way at initial install. That's happened to me more than once when customers refuse to buy quality stuff. No different than buying cheap brake pads for the vehicles. They work for some time but rarely for long. Either way I'd still replace it and nobody has ever come after me for manufacturing issues. Protect your liability however you see fit as some parts of the country are naturally sue happy 😁

Same here, it was 60 in our home last night and I dreaded calling my HVAC service out today. What a simple and easy fix. Used some 1000 grit sand paper and re-installed. I have heat now!!!!!

My 2019 Armstrong has the same looking flame sensor and I thought it would be smart to get one and igniter. Stopped at the nice and reputable place that installed it in my farmhouse and they only wanted about $115 each. Think I'll look on line. Great video.

Here to help, glad it worked out for you guys 👍

Boom 👊, that is what we are here for!

I have the on/ off switch not working but my furnace still blow air and the burners turn on but the blower doesn’t kick in to send air up what’s ur thoughs

@@raymondhoguelll2044 flame sensor flame sensor

@Vladimir Putin smart gas valve was the main issue $ 1300 to fix Works now 👍🏻

O9am

@@raymondhoguelll2044 Did you spend $1,300 bucks or just install a new furnace at the same price?

You're welcome

Happy wife, happy life!

Thanks Daniel 👍

Nice! Happy to help!

They "forget" a lot of things, wanting that sweet, sweet service call for no heat when the first cold snap happens. I glad you took the time to look before calling them back. Always make sure they prove things are running properly before paying the bill for things like tune ups in the off season for heat/ac.

Those 2 items; flame sensor and the ignitor ... yeap ... simple, don't we hate getting abused by the industry?

That's what happened to mine.... nozzle was corroded... used sand paper and a pin to clean nozzle. Just happened today as I figured it out and the service guy was there.

most common reason, would be bill not paid

Exactly... Trane units have a safety switch that that closes when the front cover is on and opens when the cover is removed. You have to tape it down for the furnace to operate with the door off. In fact, the door ajar is a common failure point for the furnace not working.... the tech comes out, makes sure the door properly shut and charges you $150 for his 1 minute of work....

@Vladimir Putin On my unit it is the top panel...

Can someone answer a question for me..... I cleaned my flame sensor - but my unit may or may not go on & then it does the 4 hr safety lock out...... I get a pilot Flame..... but it does not then expand to that blue blaze..... it will try 4x & then lock out...... does that mean my Gas Valve is going bad?

@@jackzeldon2883 look for the diagnostic code. It was tell you

This helped a ton, thank you! Had no idea

I used 1 trillions dollars Zimbabwean money and it worked!!

​@@sigendut3336if that was in single dollar bills, it would have been a couple of truck loads, imagine the weight😂😂 Stay warm and safe.

Its very rare for a flame sensor to actually break, usually they just need cleaning.

@@Redtooth75 Maybe I missed this but ( I think) tech didn't RE-remind to be sure power off main("light switch"). Also do NOT clean sensor with sandpaper or anything rough. Coating of sensor not very thick. Elsewise video EXCELLENT; understanding operating sequence of unit is super useful. Furnaces, like cars, have become somewhat techy but necessary to keep em safe & efficient.

Yeah, The unit at my house is 25 years old and the heat exchanger has enough corrosion I am starting to get a little more concerned.

No corrosion in the heat exchanger. Unbelievable. Thank you.

very smart decision. good job

I only had to replace a furnace because the new insurance company didn't like the age. It had a single piece cast iron flame distribution. The manual had goofy little 50s style cartoon characters. The only problem it had was the pilot blew out every once in a while.

@@KLondike5 - That's unfortunate. I've also heard similar stories, but about 15+ year old roofs in Florida, where the insurance company doesn't want to renew the home insurance policy unless the homeowner replaces their still perfectly fine roof.

Awesome, happy to help 🙌

Oh man, I feel your pain 😂

Why would you expect your renters to do maintenance on your property? Thats what they pay you for.

I didn't say anything about maintenance of the house, just housekeeping, like keeping their places clean and removing their trash from the house.

@@yodasbff3395 you said that you had to clean flame sensors because the tenants are not good housekeepers. The cleanliness of the house has nothing to do with the flame sensor, or any part of the furnace besides the air filter to a certain extent.

Good note, I wanted to jump into the diagnostic codes but decided to make it a separate video 👍

I found mine on the box of last control board. Does not help me

my error light did not send out error code... I was looking for the error code in the number of blinks from the led light and there is nothing listed as a 1 blink... It showed there really wasn't anything wrong with the system. It was cleaning the gas nozzle; they were a little clogged.

That's not a step. That's do to poor maintenance on your burners. What he described was the order of operation for heat.

What you just described is literally the purpose of the flame sensor being mounted on the opposite side of the HSI or other igniters. The gas channel allows the flame to pass to each jet of gas. If it fails that’s one of the times the Flame sensor says “nah fam I ain’t seeing it, shut er down and try again.”

Hey, thanks for your comment on this. I'm now thinking my problem is also with the thermocoupler. I got a brand new flame sensor just to rule out an issue with the old one. Basically, the cycle gets to the flames, and even the blower, but then the flames go out, with the blower continuing, I took out the burners and made sure they were clean and didn't have any air leaks, but that didn't change the situation. Also the control board was replaced only a few years ago so I don't think that's the issue either. What do you think? Do I just need to replace the thermocoupler?

@@teegeesIf you think that thermocouple is even just 5 years old, for the money especially, I would replace it. They’re pretty universal and usually less than $10 at typical stores. Unless you turn off the gas and completely shut the furnace down for the summer, they have a constant pilot on them year round and they get burned down to a nub and stop working or get weak. Because what they do is produce a small amount of electricity to keep a valve open as long as they are staying hot. So if you’re igniting the burners and then everything blows out after a minute or two I am thinking the draw of fresh cool air through the furnace when the flames are burning is causing a weak thermocouple to cool off just enough to close that pilot valve and kill the pilot light. Once the pilot light is off the whole burner operation is going to shut down whether the main burners are burning or not because the thermocouple is a failsafe mechanism. If the thermocouple is in good shape though and it looks like it has it’s shape still cleaning them with a wire brush can improve their sensitivity because they can get a residue from condensation on them. Being sure the pilot port is clean is a good idea too so the thermocouple is getting a crisp rich flame to stay hot. And also it is important that the flame is hitting the tip of the thermocouple. Usually the last 1/4-1/2” and this can be adjusted as well. If you replace the thermocouple just be careful not to kink pilot gas line while working on it. They’re delicate. Use the old thermocouple to pre match the route of the line of the new it will make installation easier. I’ve replaced thermocouples with & without taking the complete pilot assembly out it just depends on how easy the particular unit is to get to 🤷‍♂️. If you’re having to relight the pilot though each time I think it sounds like the problem though. I hope this helps.

@@bensk8in467 hey thanks your detailed response and tips on this. Turns out my furnace has no pilot light and the igniter is a ceramic heating element which heats up and ignites the gas. Since I had already checked the burners and replaced the flame sensor I was looking to now replace the limit switch, and then the gas valve if necessary (most expensive part to replace). So far I’m just using space heaters but eventually I’ll get things working again. Thanks again 🙏

@@teegees ​​⁠​​⁠Sure you’re welcome it could help someone if not you anyway. I did wonder if you possibly had an electric igniter. Glad you have some heat at least for now. One more thing to possibly check is if it has an automatic damper for the exhaust. Because if that isn’t opening up it would shut the flame off. They can stick and not work right if it has one. I think you have a failsafe switch issue of some kind. One thing to keep in mind troubleshooting sensors is they generally two wire & just on or off so you can disconnect the switch and connect the two wires to bypass. If things cycle as they should, you know it’s that switch and saves the guesswork. Hope you get er man 👍

@@bensk8in467 You’re spot on there. Thank you sir.

Jesus, you're going to kill someone. The diaphragm doesn't get "stiff"

@@benjohnson4404 It does when the incoming air is minus 25 degrees celcius!

Dear David, how u know this one？

Yep. Chimney in a one hundred year old house was plugged up. I got it cleaned out and saved a service call. Now I check it every fall.

Flame sensor

Thanks for the feedback 👍

@@EverydayHomeRepairs Nice video, well done. Fine steel wool is OK to use, that's what was recommended to use back in the day. However, I went to scotch brite pads because fine steel wool corrodes easily. The flame rod does not have a coating as far as I know, you want to avoid abrasive cleaners like sandpaper or plumbers roll because they will etch grooves into the flame rod material that will quickly fill with detritus leading to premature failure. A typical flame signal is in a range of 1 dc microamp to 3 dc microamps and anything that increases the resistance to the flow of such a tiny current will cause trouble. Even a rusty/dirty gas burner (serving as the ground conductor) will do it. The flame signal returns to the control board via chassis ground so if the burner is rusty or the ground wire is loose, you'll will likely have flame failure.

That was an investment as I got my money back 😂

@@EverydayHomeRepairs word! 🤣 And saved at least a $150 service fee! 🤣

@@HannahMattox 💯

24v power supply?

@@SilverandCigars maybe. It saw a small transformer; either 12 or 24v.

You bet, here to help 🙌