The main reason for using so much fuel is that you've got the unit outside and so drawing in freezing cold air into the heating unit. Put the heater inside and just have the exhaust outlet outside. These units are designed to be used inside.

The guru for Chinese heaters is John McK 47. His videos are a must watch if you have problems. He says you can have the pump vertical but not upside down. Flat out you'll use 360ml per hour.

Not many people admit or show their mistakes, hat's off to you.

Recirculate the air from inside . Fit another vent so it can draw air from the room back through the heater . Warming warm air then 👍

Great video sir. I'm currently assembling mine and I'm glad to have this info before I decide to run it for the first time

i luckily managed to buy a Chinese diesel heater off a guy that had lived in china ,he worked there as a English teacher ,and he bought a heater while over there , the one i got was specifically made for the Chinese market . seems to be better made ,and strangely it has 8 heat settings on it . which makes it very fuel efficient . even the fuel lines where the solid ,harder lines that most people had to upgrade to . it,s worked perfectly since i,ve had it ,that,s about 18 months now . on the lowest setting it,s so quiet . here,s a tip for you ,i know this will sound strange ,but get a small fan and run it on low ,and put it somewhere where the heat from the heater main heat pipe points to. ,then angle the fan to a space where heat does,nt reach and it will blow the hot air even further into the space . i found it speeds up the heating of an area .weird i know ,but it works .

Bought one of these things 2 years ago, Not rocket science to set up , Worked well ,heated my small shed very well. Then i moved it go another part of the shed , ironically because the exhaust was near the door, and i thought I might gas myself. Long story short, Because I'd already set it up and ran it , I just undid the exhaust pipe , , and fed it through the wall from the outside , Then I connected it to the heater, and went away to finish the job the next day, Totally forgot to tighten the clamp on the pipe and started running the heater. Over the next few days I started getting very tired , then I started getting dizzy and forgetful,, Then about 3 weeks after I first fitted the heater I went to bed one night ,and woke up in A and E, after having a massive fit in my sleep. I've since been told im epileptic, Just a simple mistake, my fault totally, not blaming anyone but myself, Nearly cost me my life. Take care .

That press was a little under powered for that bracket. I recommend at least a 50t press for that.

Possibly the funniest video ever. I got to get a press to bend my 2.5 mm brackets. I wonder how you were goina do it lol. I always use a hammer and a block of wood. Funny as

It best to mount fuel pump on a rubber a.v mount to cut down the sound and more importantly the vibration. The air intake needs to be piped from the inside ,this will improve efficiency by 50%

Thinking about buying one of these any day now, just my luck that you uploaded this video right now :D Thank you

the big problem I had was the exhaust leaking on the joints solved it by using an exhaust sealer on the joints. any car part shop will have it for around £3 a tub .started to get a head ak after 1 hour of running the heater. put a co2 in workshop and was read high

You’ve got the exhaust pumping out carbon monoxide in the same space as the cold air intake thus pumping it into the heated space. Seems extremely risky not to mention inefficient. I believe the unit is designed to be placed inside the heated space while the exhaust is piped to the outside.

I concur, have your air intake coming from inside your garage. Also make sure your combustion air intake is well away from the exhaust pipe and use the muffler, have the exhaust sloping downwards to allow any condensation to come out. The other thing is the fuel pump runs best at 35degrees. Where did you get those rubber connectors for your white fuel line? That leak at the fuel line going into the heater should be tight as well as all others or you will eventually run into an E8 error.

Personally I would move the unit inside the heated area with just the exhaust pipe coming through the wall to the outside. This would then have warmer air coming into unit and not freezing cold air from outside making it more efficient.

freezing cold intake outside......re do so you recirculate the warmed room air and take out the risk of exhaust gas in the room, insulate intake and output, the heater is designed to be inside the area being heated...

I'm using one of these heaters to heat my 600 square foot condo. I run the exhaust pipe out a window, seal the gaps (I use fireproof rockwool batt to surround the exhaust pipe). Last winter I used about 5 gallons US #2 Diesel per week to heat my home... far less expensive than heating with electric heat, which used to be my only source of heat. One thing I have noticed, these little heaters tend to coke up the combustion chamber if run at the low settings for long periods.

I think the 50 ton Press to bend a sheet metal bracket was the fatal mistake! But it was very entertaining. ⚡👍

The pump is lubricated by the fuel by providing the angle it ensures fuel from the start eliminating pumping dry...

Well done for using this kit ....

If you have any more issues with the fuel flow, those pumps aren't good at sucking, you might need to lift the tank up closer to the pump or the pump closer to the tank. I agree with the others, you need the cold air intake plumbed inside too. It's easier to heat the room air vs outside air. You could also pull in the exhaust fumes since they are close, the way it is now..

The trick to running it on other than diesel is cleanliness and heat. Strip it down, clean it completely, especially around the burn chamber and glow plug. Once it lites, you have to keep it on high so the combustion fan can keep it hot so even motor oil will burn.

You made that easy bracket bending into right long job lol

Thanks for the info. From what I gather these are great in RVs and vans but not effective in work shops or garages as they cant heat large areas . Its a shame as i have a double garage/workshop that I'd like to use in the winter, but i think I'd need a proper diesel space heater that pumps out at least 15- 20 kw

Watching you using a press on a tiny bracket you could easily bend by hand was hilarious. 😂

So, how do you know which end of the pump is the inlet and which is the outlet? I have my pump fresh out of the box from Vevor, and there's no marking indicating direction.

I was sweeping up wood dust. My diesel heater sucked up the dusty air, then it was to hard to burn, it flamed out. I completely carefully disassembled it, cleaned it with acetone, heated right up. Burning 50% diesel, 25% motor oil, 25% gasoline.

I hope youve clamped the exhaust onto the exhsust port with some exhsust paste and routed the exhaust outside, if not run a carbon monoxide alarm in the room. For your own saftey and those around you.

It has been my experience that the pump mounted at a 45* will burn up pumps, I burned up 3 pumps that way. I now mount them at 90* like you had yours only right side up. My heaters run for months at a time here in western Pennsylvania. You can tell when your pump is starting to go bad, It will start speeding up and then slow down it gets quite bothersome . I can't sleep listening to it speed up slow down. I like mine nice and steady. I think they tell you to mount them at 45* to sell more pumps. They are made of not the best steel. Unlike my Webasto's the pumps work any way you want, They are made really well and are expensive I have some from the 90's that are still ticking away. Cheers..

Where have you got the exhaust going into. a room or outside?

Is there a jubilee clip on the exhaust to the heater 🤔

I bought a Chinese diesel heater for the first time about 4 years ago" I've bought 3 since then" they last about a year before the bearings start to squeak from pretty continuous running' a lot of the time on low" thats were my issue tonight was as i was watching the videos' on white smoke my d heater started to spew white smoke' i thought there was a new pope". I haven't ran it hot for months and i figured from my considerable experience that I had some build up that needed to be hot burned and a quick general ⛑ ⛑ maintenance' so i ran it full blast and it musta cooked the chamber" I went outside and straighten the exhaust pipe straight down and went back inside and started the heater it was still blowing white smoke and then what sounded like half a gunshot went off and couple of ounces of Black soot fell onto the ground and the Heater ran perfectly. Sure glad i straightened that exhaust pipe and burned the chamber or i wouldn't be having a merry Burrrrr Christmas. 1995 Thor 32 ft M

What Hz settings you use low and topp ??? 5 liter over night ??? Omg i use 1/3 of that if not less

The exhaust should be to the out side and do you have a co meter

Any problems with heat going through the wall ?

I think you bought an illegal UK copy of a genuine original Chinese heater

are there english desel heaters or even german heater s ?

The combustion air intake and exhaust are outside, as they should be. BUT: The *FRESH* air intake is not far above the exhaust: so it could pull in (CO laden) exhaust gases and send them inside the building. This could be a real *"FATAL"* error... as in it can efficiently, silently, kill you. The FRESH air intake needs to be completely separated from the exhaust... preferably in the same area that is being heated so it can re-warm already warmed air - much more efficient, also. Also you still seem to have a diesel leak..that can contribute to your usage - not to mention if it hits the usually VERY hot exhaust pipe, it could ignite... not something you want to happen, either.

I'd also consider moving the pump away from the hot exhaust. Anchorage, Alaska

Another error why are you taking cold air from outside? If you recirculate the air from inside it will be possibly 30% more efficient

Thanks, for sharing that but iam getting a all in one with the led remote and with the built-in tank so much easier to move about

The big mistake was watching this video of you trying to flatten the bracket.

I wanted to install one of these bad boys for my bunk in my RV. There is no heating in that area for some strange reason, so even if I turn on the heat, it is chilly sleeping in the bunk. Diesel is easier to obtain than propane and does throw more heat per volume. You could easily have a small slip tank filled up (100+ liters) and it should last a long time between fills.

Should have a fuel filter in the kit to protect the pump.

Looks a good job.

Interesting that you think installing the pump upside down is a fatal error, yet you've installed the exhaust without a clamp and are drawing the air for heating from the same space. Carbon Monoxide poisoning can be fatal too.

That's quiet a height for the pump to draw fuel from be interesting to see if the pump lasts. In the boxed versions there is only a matter of inches for the fuel to be drawn to the pump then the pump drains down hill as well. So you have two extra strains on the pump.

They use alot of fuel if you leave them on high or even medium, no matter if the pump is upside down or not..These are great for small insulated spaces when you can run them for half an hour and shut them off for an hour or so, or when the power goes out..A wood burner is best, then a mini split, for larger areas..

Definitely connect up a return air vent from the room to the unit, as, at the moment, you're heating 100% outside air at say zero degrees, you'll only get the max temp rise out of the unit say 15 degrees, the room will never reach a cosy 20 let's say. You want it to reheat the air that's already been warmed from the room for best effect :)

The fuel pump can be vertical as long as it’s the right way up. In fact it’s better vertical than at 45 degrees as air can get out even easier. The big no-no is to have it horizontal or at a shallower angle than 45 degrees. As others have said already, you’ll get a huge efficiency improvement if you recirculate warm air rather than heating outside air all the time. Keep combustion intake and exhaust outside but have circulation intake and exhaust inside. It’s even better if you have the whole unit inside with the combustion exhaust and intake going outside because you also capture the radiated heat from the heater, but it would be noisier.

You should have a cold air return from inside that room to go thru the unit and then back into the room with re-heated air. You are actually heating cold air and pumping it into a room. You need to make a continuous loop to properly heat a room.

There was mention of fuel efficiency / consumption intermingled with talk about the pump orientation, but no explanation as to the link between the two. How are they related? Also, when the pump bleeds air, where does it vent it to?

What do mortgage holders, insurance companies & freehold owners think about these heaters ? Could fitting one lead to legal troubles.

Hi mate. Not having a go, but you need to switch it off (for your safety) and maybe watch some videos on KZfaq first. I'm new to this myself, but your install isn't safe. The exhaust gases can be sucked into the air heater inlet (then outlet to your room) which will be lethal. It needs routing outside. All the exhaust and fuel lines need Jubilee/circlips. The fuel line needs a filter before the pump. Try to run the unit off a car battery. A trickle charger can keep it topped up. Otherwise a power cut/trip will ruin the heater due to no slow power down. Good luck!

Good save, well done.

Hi my new heater has came with the pump horizontally and in same direction as the mistake in the video so mounted it a 45 degree angled but there is a flow arrow pointing towards the wiring is it wrong any idears .cheers

hello, I had a problem of exaggerated smoke before starting, then I discovered that by removing a layer of retina from the glow plug grille, it went into place, it seems strange to me, I've never heard anyone do this, what could it be?

An update on the consumption and the power level yu are running it at would be kool, ta

Gravity feed the fuel and take the load off the pump, Don't ever use that press again that way to flatten a pissy little bracket. And recirculate the warm room air back through the intake of the heater..

Max 45 degrees down to about 30 degrees is the sweet spot 👍

Warning Carbon monoxide poisoning from exhaust and inlet to blower being in same area. Duct the intake side of the heater into the room to stop, it will also be way more efficent. At the moment you are blowing cold exhaust contaminated air into the room.

Also i would take the air from the room to pass through the heater and back in, if you are always taking in very cold air from outside you will be losing energy. By taking the warm air from the room and passing it again through the heater it will heat the room quicker. It would be like switching on the recirculation switch for the car vents with the AC on, the car gets much colder as it takes the cold air from the interior and passes it back through the AC then back in again.

Is it wise to be drawing air from an area that contains the waste exhaust gases…

Does anyone know how to access the advanced settings on the new blue controller ?

I believe your fuel is supposed to be mounted above the heater as well as the 30-45 degree tilt of pump...mayhaps that could also be the cause?

Interesting video, good job that it is on youtube though, we can fast forward the 3 minutes of flattening a bit of metal!

Looks like the heater is inside. Also exhaust is inside. Beware of exhaust carbonoxide!

Mission impossible theme would have set the mood for the job

Just to add to air intake. You need one otherwise you will be drawing in exhaust fumes.

Better off running it inside so the air intake is using the inside air ,,will warm faster and be more efficient and of course vent the exhaust outside 😊

How did it run if the pump was pumping in the wrong direction?

You can also calibrate the heaters so that they only use as much fuel as needed to generate the correct amount of heat rather than the default of too much which will make a more dirty exhaust and need to be cleaned more often, and usually the fan’s low speed is too low to move much air, so it’ll have a more useful range when you go to turn it down, once calibrated.

Does the tank not need to be at height to gravity feed the pump to save the fuel line running dry?

Watching you use a hydraulic press to flatten that bracket gave me permanent anxiety 😂😂😂.

Ya I probably would have used a Hamer to flatten the bracket but I guess when you have all the toys you might as well use them.

The fuel pump is recommended bet.30 to 45degree Angle not upside down.thks

Why not recirculate the inside air through the heater instead of taking in cold air from outside?

I would guess you don't have a vice and rubber hammer .

Try using Alpine mode in the settings, it'll greatly increase the fuel efficiency - see the relevant Vanflippingtastic channel video from two weeks ago...

No clamps on the fuel line fittings?? not strange that it is leaking on the pressure side between pump and burner. and where is the fuel filter?

Unit should be inside Paul outside air for combustion and exhaust outside but the unit itself should be inside much more efficient your heating, whatever the outside air temperature is ambient air temperature up to room temperature to put it inside the heat way more fuel consumption depending on the temperature, you can before five times more fuel at sub zero

Isn’t the exhaust also to close to the fuel tube?

Tank and pump should be above the heater not below it the pump only meters the fuel it does not pressurise it. Air intake and exhaust are the only things that need venting to the outside air, hot air intake and outlet stay in the room. If you have the burner air intake inside it causes negative air pressure and removes your heated air and pumps it out side.

Here's more info on fuels I've tried in the UK spec Vevo 5kW unit, with stock settings (with the controller-new type, late 2022, without the antenna signal indicator): Best fuel, most heat, Kerosene=heating oil=jetA1=paraffin Diesel, red or standard next best Brake fluid, DOT3 diluted with 10% petrol next best Old dirty engine oil diluted 20% with unleaded petrol next best Transmission fluid/old gearbox oil diluted with 10% petrol next (but smelly) Old gunwash thinners with 10% old engine oil to give it some lube properties not very good Old petrol with 10% old engine oil, also not very good. Acetone, brake and clutch cleaner (trichloroethylene- don't breath the smoke at all) or alcohol/meths don't really work at all. With all of the hydrocarbons, it is pretty obvious that there is way too much air running through the combustion chamber, because the exhaust pipe gets really hot (wasted heat). The combustion gas is being pushed straight out of the heat exchanger. If you choke the combustion air inlet a little, while still maintaining a lean and clean burn (at max fan speed), the exhaust temp drops while the heat exchanger actually gets a lot hotter. More time for the hot combustion gases to transfer the heat into the heat sink, as the burning gas is moving slower. Oh and throw away the little fuel filter they supply, as it doesn't filter anything! Get a proper fuel filter... If anyone knows how to crack advanced settings on the new controller unit (without antenna signal indicator), please post! 👍🏻😀🇬🇧

It’s outside, with the exhaust next to the intake. Doesn’t that mean you’re pumping fumes in?

that is a big area to heat , so don't think you can use like 3 liter a 24 hour

How long does the battery last with out solar

Allot of faffing about to straighten that bracket out. Bench vice, BFH, 10 seconds… sorted ha, ha, ha.

I wonder if you're losing diesel to evaporation. That could explain inefficiency. Try a vented cap?

how was it even working if you had the pump on backwards? doesnt that mean its pumping the wrong way?

The pump suffers from cavitation, diesel leaks out, so air leaks in. Strangely, it'll prime 5 meters across my truck, but it needs a 10cm short tube to the heater, to prevent a build up of bubbles. The faster the pump pumps, the hotter the unit runs. Bigger the area, longer it runs.

I worry about these exhausts being too close to the cold air inlet. It will actively suck combustion products into it and into the workshop. When you pipe workshop air back out to the air intake that will help keep the two circuits isolated.

think I would have just stood on the right angle bracket tbh 😄

Wires upward. Angle 15° to 30° from the level.

Or run a hose from the heated area to the air intake. Don’t I see a patch mark in the perfect spot? In your video.

Pl try putting Fuel Tank at same height as the heater. The flow of diesel will be easy.May be that improve your heater,as you say it take 5 ltr.diesel in 8 hours. I see a video where guy check the average to be 0.14 ltr./ hour. I buy my heater after checking that video.

I see that you have a church pew in front of the hardness tester. Do you pray before using the hardness tester hoping that the hardness comes out OK?

also noticed that you are running the fuel pump wrong , it's designed to be a metering pump not a flow or suction / pressure pump, every clack it's pushing 0.02 mili litre , if you look at the heater units that have an internal tank the fuel is gravity fed

ive tested this type of heater in a video and flat out it used 1 litre every 2.5 hours ..

Recirculate the air rather than heating the air from outside the room