Thanks brother!! Hope it will help some folks out =D

Thanks Doug! This one's been a long time coming. Hopefully this will help folks out, I know it's daunting when you're first starting out

Thanks Dave! Hope it makes choosing easier =D

Thanks Bud! Hope it helps out =D

Thanks Gaylan! This is a tough topic to cover since many people feel pretty strongly about it. Hope that it will help folks weigh things out when they are choosing

Haha!! Glad you watched to the end 😀 Yep, I actually have a video that covers using pots on their side. It can be a life saver for long molds! Sounds like you have a great system set up

LOL I was having a little fun with the camera there =D

Where do you suggest looking for a retired painter? I see this comment on all of these threads and videos and other than CL, where they are selling for $300 a piece used in Denver at least, I'm not sure where else to look.

@@Petrolfox669 I bought mine off Craig's List fo $45.

Thanks Tim! Glad I can help out =D

My pleasure! Hope it will make choosing easier =D

I'm glad it was helpful! I hope you enjoy the Beginner's Guide =D

Great to hear Jim =D

If it happens to blow up and someone gets hurt will you come back on here and say you made a mistake?

@@Hathenbrucksteelworks The clamps are simple screw-on/off to tighten/loosen. Have you tried greasing the threads and pivot points?

@@alphacat4927 That's a bit dramatic. 60 psi can't cause anything to "Blow up". I rubber seal failure at best.

60 psi failure wouldn't probably be very spectacular

Thanks Alan =D

Awesome! I've been meaning to make a video covering this topic for a long time now, finally decided to get er done =D

Thanks Huw! Yeah, they may not have ASME ratings on products outside the U.S.

That sounds like a speed and tool issue. Make sure the tools are sharp, you're presenting them properly and it's spinning fast enough. Good luck!

If it’s hooked to a regulator it shouldn’t let air flow backwards

Absolutely! It helps if you can rig up a mounting system, and make sure to double check that the mold is level when you put it in

Hey Alejandro! You got second 😀 Glad you enjoyed it, and I hope that it cleared things up a bit

NO. The most basic reason is that a pressure cooker is only designed to handle 15 PSI. THat is the high setting. Since you want a pot to handle at least 40 PSI that Pressure Cooker ain't going to hack it. To even get close you would have to disable all of the safety measures on the pot. That is probably not really possible on a modern pot and unfortunately possible on old ones. You absolutely DO NOT want to do that because you are creating a bomb. Gasses compress and when they rapidly expand what you end up with is an explosion. Remember the Boston Marathon bombing? That is what happens when an over pressurized pressure cooker fails. All an explosive powder etc. does is create a huge amount of gas. "low explosives" like gunpowder don't explode if you just light a small pile of it. They go up sort of like flash powder. However if you contain the gasses so they can't freely expand you get an explosion. So the pressure build up would be much slower in your pressure cooker but the explosion when the pot fails will be the same. Sorry for the long post but a lot of people may be thinking the same thing and what you are talking about is extremely dangerous. You might get away with it a bunch of times because most things are designed to withstand a multiple of their stated rating, but one failure could be fatal and you would be going over twice the rating so...

S Koue that was a very thorough explanation. When I was listening to Zach saying no to pressure cookers I got to thinking about canning and most items you shoot for 10 psi, significantly lower. Then there are the clamps, which was another clue...I do have a question if you have time. Is it essential to use a pressure pot when combining wood and resin? I am hoping to get the lathe set up over this winter, I have a variety of interesting wood, but some of it will need to be stabilized.

I wouldn't suggest it

If I'm understanding it correctly, you would leave it for the entire time the resin needs to cure. So usually 24 hours.

Depends on the resin. Ours take 15 minutes. Old "slow" resin took 1 hr. That's to demold. They continue to harden after they come out of the mold.

There are a couple. California Air Tools makes one that's pretty much ready to go out of the box. You can get them at Turners Warehouse: turnerswarehouse.com/products/california-air-tools-5-gallon-pressure-pot-designed-for-casting?ref=nvww

@@ZacHiggins thanks I appreciate that, it looks like they don’t ship to the UK

how about a 9 inch Pizza Pan :)

That's a really good question, should have covered that in the video! Most of them are pretty similar overall, but C.A. Technologies has a model that is specific for resin casting that only requires adding a few plumbing fittings to the regulator, all the parts we would remove are already gone. The link to C.A. Technologies pots on the "Tools I Use' page on my website takes you to the resin casting models: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/

Zac Higgins thanks, appreciate you responding

Do you use any kind of bucket “liner” in case the resin leaks out of the mold to protect the inside?

That sounds like it didn't fully cure. You probably didn't mix it with the proper ratio or you didn't mix it enough