Chris I can't say enough about how much this has changed my printer. I got a new inductive probe and an SKR Mini E3 V2 and have been fighting getting the bed leveled. Even with an automatic 25 point probe before each print I was struggling to find the right height on my not-flat bed. I followed your instructions and the very first print nailed the first layer with no intervention from me. This has truly made a huge difference for me. Thanks for putting this together.

Chris, all I can say is "Wow!" Thank you for taking the time to do this video. Wow!

I regularly come back to this video if I need some help troubleshooting and/or re-leveling. Can't say enough how great this walkthrough is.

Ive been fighting this on my second sv01 for months. Found your tutorial, and it is simply amazing how you go step by step, so no guess work needed. THANK YOU!!!!!!!

Chris, as always an excellent tutorial ... I have used your tutorial of bi-linear leveling and never failed. Keep up the great work !

You see chris, this is why the community needs you. You're the only one that I'm aware of that breaks down marlin in a such pleasing way. Easy to follow and covers all the scenarios. Thank you

This is one of the most if not the most comprehensive guide for UBL that I've seen. Thanks a ton! They should include this video to the marlin documentation!!!!!!

Some of the best 3D printing videos made! Added bi-linear to two of my printers using your how-to on the subject. May try this on my TEVO Tarantula that's due for a tear down. Keep up the great work!!!

Back in 2016 or so I was watching the Marlin GitHub issues and PRs daily. As I recall, Roxy was one of the key developers on this feature, and it was great watching the progress. I moved away from having a printer that used “straight” Marlin, so never got a chance to test the working version. Very impressive to see it all come together.

I just had to comment on how appreciative I am for your effort on educating us about 3d printers. You have got me through some hard times with setting up my printer. Little did I know the deep waters I was entering when I upgraded my ender 3 pro motherboard from a silent creality one to the skr 1.4 turbo. I had no previous experience with visual code or g-codes etc. But watching your tutorials with your easy to understand method of teaching has helped me sooooo much. I still have a long way to go but I'm starting to understand this stuff now and it isn't as daunting as when I began. Thank you.

I have a sovol SV03 and no other tutorial has helped me better than this one. I'm fairly new to 3d printing so I couldn't figure out why my prints were doing so bad after I left for a while. Thank you very much!

your a genius, fired my printer up after not using for a year or more, and have spent two days of frustration, then found your video again. Thank you sir!

So I'm replacing my stock 8 bit controller with a 32 bit controller tomorrow...and I was preparing a marlin .bin for it...thank you so much for making sure that I do this project on *another* day. I'll stick with bilinear for now! Thanks! This looks amazing and stupid-easy once it's set up...but I really appreciate your video letting me know how many steps alone it is just to get running. I'm sure I'll be able to do it when I'm ready though and I've bookmarked this and subscribed just for how easy to follow this was!

This is one of the best videos I have seen in a while! Your tutorials are always fantastic:)

Dude! Very nice tutorial - thank you so much! To me, the most important part was which GCode commands should be set in my slicers to load the mesh and compensate it just with eventual tilt changes. Thanks!

Superb tutorial as always Chris. I'm still using Bi-linear levelling on the Borg, which is working perfectly. Will probably give this a try at some point too though.

Hi Chris, just spent the last 2 hours playing with UBM, didn't know it even existed! thank you for the great content.

Always top quality work Chris! Glad to have you making these videos.

This video amazing! I was able to take some parts of it away and finally get UBL working, thank you!!!

As always you are the best at explaining and being great at the details. May have to give this a try - Thanks for the video.

Cheers dude, followed your step by step guide and breezed through the config! It took me longer to update to the latest marlin bugfix then it did to implement this :D

Chris, thanks for this very good intro to UBL. I had it once activated but 'Real men don't read instructions' and didn't knew what to do, so back to bilinear ;) Just set it up on my Sapphire Pro (SKR 1.4 Turbo).

awesome video Chris thanks, I have been using a BLTouch and Bi-Linear leveling. This is going to help me move to the next step!

You are just amazing. I was struggling with UBL your video solved my problem.

Wow! Amazing video! I'm so glad i found this :D i've been stuck with issues with UBL until now :D Thanks! Keep up your great work!

Thanks again Chris, this looks really useful, I'll try this one out on my ender 3 when I can get around to switching out the board, thanks again

Chris, thank you so much for the video! I've upgraded my printer and had a hard time configuring it. Was able to resolve all my issues with Z calibration.

Thank you Sir. This is the one and only usefull tutorial on the internet.

Great Video! I’m gonna use your guide and make the switch from bilinear to unified tomorrow on one of my printers. Looks like fun! Thanks!

FYI the slots for meshes are numbered from 0 to 6. 0 being the first slot. Thanks for posting the video, very nicely done.

Gr8 job in keeping us informed, Chris.

Thank you Chris, amazing intro to UBL.

Thank you for showing us how to do this. It is very helpful! Thumbs up!

Like always Chris, Nice job explaining it all.

I can't figure out why you don't have more subscribers than the typical Toy Boy maker channels...keep up the great "to the point" honest content.

Wow Chris what a video. My ender3 will never be the same again 👍🏻

thanks chris, obviously working on this a precursor for this would be to make sure you have got your bed size correct in marlin and on the printer as this might be different from physical bed size. 🙂. currently working on that

Thank you, man! I can't understand how it works until I saw your video. Maybe it can fix my delta.

I’ve done a lot of stuff with my printer thanks to you man ! Thank you ! :D

I found interesting thing about my anycubic kossel. It has fixed bed, so it twists different with different temperature. So I decided to calibrate ubl for each type of filament. And then you can use filament override options in prusa slicer. Works great. I did delta calibration on cold bed. Then I preheat it for 65 / 75 / 95 Celsius and made a UBL for each one. Difference between 65 and 95 Celsius is really visible.

Was just looking this up last night!! Your awesome!!!

Perfect timing on this, Thanks Chris

One of the best tutorials I found about this topic, congrats, however there is a small note, pre bed leveling is required or you can face that sensor is not able to capture all points on the bed during process. Regards

Very detailed Chris - Thanks!

Nicely done. One of the better vids I have seen recently. Look forward to seeing you at MRRF 2019. Please look me up!

Always appreciate your tutorials.....I always learn a lot and keeps me playing with my printers! Curious on the print head on your printer....are there files so I can build that setup for my machine?

Hi Chris, Very clear instructions !! Congratulations and ... thanks! What catch my eye too was the magnets under the front edge of the heat plate. Clear for me, it's not an "industrial" made heat plate. Could you supply some info (heat plate type, magnets type, adhesive type, solution reliability)? Maybe a short video? fusi (Romania)

This was very helpful! Thank you for making this video!

Great video, altough - the G29J - I found to mess up the actual saved mesh by "adjusting" to the same number for all spots (visible after print with G29 T). So I use G29 L1 G29 A (just to be sure) - and then my first level takes benefit of that long G29 bed level we do in this process. I run Marlin 2.0.x.bugfix, might be something who differs from 1.1.9

بجد انت انسان محترم جدا ..... وبجد استفدت منيك كتير

Quality content, I've read that you should use an uneven number of probing point as it is better for some reason, Quess it doesn't go trough (0;0) otherwhise and marlin doesn't like that or something.

thanks Chris for the great detail video and to the point

I love your videos.. its just geeky enough for the tech guys and simple enough for the noobs.. HOWEVER : I would like to see more stuff t the end.. how to fix things when it goes wrong.. like on this video .. if your inset is not right and the props tries to prob off the edge of the bed or if you have a large gap between your BLTouch and the nozzle and it can't reach all the spots.. G29P3 GUESSES don't work well when things like that fail.. and its tough to fix from octoprint.. also some vids on when octoprint goes haywire... cause octoprint modifies geode on the fly and streams it to your printer kinda like clipper . and Canada a bunch more tuning of footprint to do.. (like if your octoprint bed size is different than your Cura settings.. and octoprint clips edges square when you actually have bed space ( full bed problems) or plugins that show you the bed visualizing and it actually mods the code..

Hey Chris, awesome video! It helped me a lot setting up UBL on my SKR v1.3. I am struggling with the mesh editing feature though: when I try to edit points via the LCD menu the carriage doesn't move in the pattern your's does on log (from left front to right and then one row over) but instead some different location often outside my print area... crashing... I homed before editing with G28 and have RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 enabled. I also have Z_SAFE_HOMING and ENABLE_MESH_EDIT_GFX_OVERLAY enabled with a BTT Full Graphic Smart Controller Display. Regarding the erratic pattern one more thing: when I issued the G29 P1 command (after G28 of course) it didn't move in a spiral pattern as described on the marlin documentation but in a very random pattern. It completed though without the two rows the probe just couldn't reach. I populated those with G29 P3 and checked with G29 T - like you explained - and everything looked ok... but trying to edit these extrapolated points via LCD did not work (the others also didn't...). Furthermore moving my nozzle via pronterface close to the points in question and issuing a G29 P4 initiated the edit menu on the lcd but doing a G29 T after that showed the brackets in a different row (same column) at least close to where the probe sits and not the nozzle... do you have a clue what might be going on? Thanks in advance.

Thank you Chris, awesome job

Well done. When I finally have time that is added to my list.

Thanks Very Helpful , On a side note after doing this i could not get my printer to extrude out the rite amount, found out that enabling eprom overrides the steps per mm in Marlin, had to send the steps per mm in the terminal and then save it to eprom, if that makes since, still new at this, thanks KH

great video! Have you ever seen the G26 test pattern happen well off center (each pattern is 50mm from the left edge and runs off the right edge)? It's happening on 2 of my printers and I'm not sure how to fix it.

Another excellent video! I followed the process (including buying and fitting an inductive sensor) and got all the way to compilation phase to discover the CR-10 controller is ~64kB short of program memory for these features! Dohh. Can you recommend a controller I can fit instead that works well with the latest Marlin release for UBL? I can sort out a separate display/encoder if the stock CR-10 unit is incompatible. Thanks, Alex

Chris, couple of more comments. One thing to look out for is if you set Z safe home, you will prime in the middle of the bed when you use G26 G10. So you should first do G28, then G0 X0 Y0 Z2, then do the G26 P10. Also, my print looked like cr*p because I am using a bowden setup and I don't think Marlin does retraction unless you have firmware retraction setup. I changed to firmware retraction and the G26 test print looked much better.

This was a great video. Thank you so much.

Really nice and helpfull tutorial! Thanks!

Is there a way to use the Octoprint Bed Visualizer plugin to have your printer take the values measured and adjust your Gcode to account for the errors in your bed? I have a warped bed and would like to use the bed visualizer to automatically adjust my Gcode to change the Z height to create a more accurate print that accounts for the errors and makes a near-perfect first layer print....

Great video - very informative and useful!

Thanks Chris, quick question, in the beginning you mentioned to set Endstop_Inverting to "TRUE". If my printer is already working properly with "False", do I still need to change them to "True"?

That helps a lot, thanks Chris for sharing :)

Just found this. Perfect, thanks.

I have a ADIMlabs printer that is based on the CR-10S with a capacitive probe... I have the latest UBL Marlin flashed on the Arduino board would but I noticed a lot of code parameters that you implemented in Arduino are different than how I setup my probe... I was curious if this step-by-step video will work with my setup? Sorry if I left out info if you can assist let me know!

Is there a stl file for the orange plastic piece on the back of the extruder stepper

Chris, nice video. Your videos are always well done and very helpful. You mention setting MESH_INSET to avoid the perimeter of the bed. Would this already be addressed if you use MIN_PROBE_EDGE which works across leveling types?

When I did the Z offset like you said around 11:00, I got a Z value of -12.4mm which seemed very large but I tried it anyway and then when I went to print, the printhead slammed into the bed. Why was the Z offset so high? It seems like there are 2 Z probe offsets, one in the firmware and one in the printer menu. When I go into Control-Motion-Probe Z offset it was set to 2.3. Why was it so big when I tried to use the method you described, then why did it slam into the print bed after? When I did G1 Z0 before manually moving it down, it was way high up off the bed so I needed to lower it 12.4mm. I'm very confused now.

hey chris I have just installed an SKR in my prusa mk3s and updated the firmware with UBL enabled...before you configure UBL how do you configure the Z offset? Im used to doing this with an ezable but not sure with a pinda..thanks

Thanks for this. I was able to setup UBL following these steps. However, after the test print using G26 P10 which prints fine, the LCD is showing "Leaving G26" and is stuck there. I can't do anything without rebooting. Is there a way to end or disable this message?

Hi Chris ! I've learnt a lot with your channel, especially understanding Marlin FW . However, i've followed every step on this video, i cant have a decent G26 Mesh, Once i finish fine tune all the points, and when i do a G26 to validate that bed leveling, the extruded material ( PLA @210°C on HB @45°C) is higher on the right side than the left side, do you have any tips and tricks regarding this problem ? also when i print the validation final validation pattern ( the STL one you use at the end) give me same result, larger on one side than the other ... How ever, the problem is not as visible as it is when i use Bilinear leveling ...

is it possible to fill in the mesh for UBL without an encoder wheel? unfortunately all i have is a touch screen LCD, and it does not have an encoder wheel. 🤦‍♀️ however i can connect to the printer using proterface if that makes a difference.

great tutorial but my z offset is always wrong. I have a delta, marlin 1.1.x bug fix calibratetd with a 3d touch. When i start G26 the nozzle always hits the bed, changing z offset with m851 does not work, seems useless to change z offset 0.1 mm at time. Any thoughts?

Why do you need to bed level before you set the offset? The bed leveling won't change the offset, only how the printer adjusts to the offset during print? If you have the default safe homing settings, won't it home automatically to the middle of the bed, so no need to manually move the head there?

Great tutorial to get started! :)

Again: Great stuff! Thanks a lot!

When you do the manual mesh editing (at point 4,1), do you use your paper underneath the nozzle to adjust the nozzle to the bed? I mean, when I set the Z offset using M92 it has been done by placing a piece of paper under the nozzle.

Hi Chris - amazing guide thanks so much. I had a look through the Marlin docs and found the variables P5 and P6... on first glance they appear to do the exact same thing as the Z-offset. Are you able to elaborate on the purpose of these two? Is there an advantage of using these over the z offset or vice versa? Cheers

can u tell me, its normal that problem? what its the common, heat the bed then level, and print, or level bed, then heat up, print?

Great video! Many thanks. I wonder why dial indicators are not used more by 3D printing geeks? The Chinese ones are cheap, accurate, and can be temporarily held in place by a magnet. Their use (on a temporary basis) would eliminate the extra electronics for a leveling probe. More importantly this would reduce print head weight. Also they would work with any print bed material.

Do you have a link to the level print you did towards the end? Tom's Level Print or something like that.

Hi Chris still struggling .Using MARLIN Bugfix 2.0 how do I add a sub folder ref Line 1273 Add a bed leveling sub-menu for ABL or MBL.

How you doing Chris keep up the good work my friend

Thank you ! Great tutorial !

I’ve a UBL set up and installed on my Gantry Pro but when I try to level the bed the nozzle is pushing into my plate and I’m beyond frustrated and no matter what I do (adjusting the Z height etc) I can’t get a print to work using Arduino and Marlin. I’ll attempt using your tutorial and see how I get on. 😢

Hey, Thanks for the great video - actually never got that far. but I still face an odd issue... so when I do G26, the pattern is printed just fine, but if I start a print directly after that, the auto leveling is not kicking in... even though it tells me that the mesh is loaded and Bed leveling enabled... do you have any idea? cheers, Matthias

Is there a GCode command to change the number of probe points?

Thank you. Great video.

Hi Chris, I set up UBL with the help of your video and have a question. I had to remove the print bed on my printer and figured I would run a G29 again to see if I changed the mesh. I had to refamiliarize myself with the parameters and found it has a K parameter that is suposed to compare a current mesh with a saved mesh. The Marlin website only shows the syntax as [L]. I can't seem to figure out what that means and they don;t give an example. Do you know how to specify comparing a newly acquired mesh to the mesh in slot 2? Thanks for all your great videos.

I'm dying to know, if I set my Z offset in the firmware, do I need to set the same offiset in my slic3r, or do I leave slic3r's z offset at zero?

Hello Chris, for some reason my "z-probe offset" value has no noticeable affect on my z-values. The only noticeable affect is when I offset the "mesh grid" using "G29 P6 C-X.XX". I am using "Marlin 1-1-9 rev1.4". I have success printing near the center of the bed but as I drift to the corners my first layer is unreliable - any advice? Thank you.

Great video brother.

Hit my nozzle is on the mid Z0 and my bltouch is 2.9 but is it + or -

Best explained. Thanks

I setup ubl. Worked great. And then realized I wasn't done setting up stuff... So i had to flash agaih... And now I gotta do it all over again! Lol

Don't forget to turn back endstops with s1 Also when I change the z offset it doesn't apply the change until I re do the leveling process. any ideas? it takes... long....

Hi, as always a very usefull video ThumbsUp Will you talk about delta printer ? many thanks