Ivan from Pine Hollow is also awesome!

ETCG he's good to

Oh, and if one wants to try the EGR at various positions. Couldn't you just use a potentiometer to adjust it's position up and down the voltage range? EDIT: Making sure that the potentiometer gives clean throughput of course.

Actually, I think it was your head that destroyed it when your Momma gave birth.

Pretty good tool

That's odd, I've NEVER seen a good deal at ANY pawn shop on ANYTHING. Professional price setters usually aren't too foolish around here is my assumption. On cragslist you are dealing with 'gotta go now cos I needs me money' situations that just don't exist for a pawn shop. But if you've got reasonable pawn shops then know I'm jealous of that and also wondering why.

+Lee Barnes most pawn shops will entertain offers, especially if the item is not selling and has been there a while. You dont have to pay sticker price.

I use to work in a shop that was 80'x130' it saved me a lot of walking back in the day when you just needed a vice real quick. I use to roll my box from job to job in that shop

broken pin? dang, didn't check my 2008 when I replaced the valve. Code came back. Will have to check those pins.

You all prolly dont give a damn but does anybody know a way to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the account password. I would love any help you can give me.

@Elon Imran Instablaster :)

@Shepard Madden Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.

@Shepard Madden it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy! Thanks so much you saved my account :D

@Elon Imran You are welcome xD

Thanks Badger. I got your stickers today. They will be displayed proudly.

+wyattoneable fantastic! Thanks for supporting my channel

i quit reading at "dorman"

Is Airtex acceptable? BDW? Could it be my code never actually cleared and I need to actually clear any/all codes with a scantool since installing the brand new crap dorman valve?

Typically the two wires that are the same colour will be the heater. The other two wires will produce a 0 to 1 volt signal on it's own so you could figure out the polarity. Is there a reason why you changed two sensors at the same time? Were both defective?

vachon644 Changed both for several reasons: Changing one involved removing whole Y-pipe assembly, so both were accessible anyway. My tester said one was definitely faulty, but could not find info on which bank was which. Both were OEM and had 340,000kms on them so thought best to do the pair. OEM sensors were about 4-6x the price of the Ford item, so effectively got both for 1/2 the price of just one!

Darren Coull Changing the both because it might be very hard to change them on the vehicle that I understand but most of vehicles they are more or less accessible. "My tester said one was definitely faulty" I am not aware of such things as O2 sensor testers but if you mean scan tool or OBD tool of some sort they cannot be relied upon to call a sensor bad, you actually need to diagnose them based on the codes and data you have available. A bad wiring or another faulty sensor could have the computer throw an O2 code. In my opinion all narrowband sensors should be interchangeable provided you have all the required pins on the connector (1 pin, 2 pins or 4 pins). The problem that can arise from using generic O2 sensor is that you need to modify your wiring and may have to use sub-par connectors that might not be as well insulated as OEM and cause problems down the road. Also, OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer as in if your car is a Ford then OEM is Ford. OE replacement would be dormer, etc. As far as testing your heater code you should check if you have proper voltage across the heater wires when you start the vehicle. You could also proceed to voltage drop tests on the power and ground of the heater. You may be in a case where the heater in the generic O2 has a different power than the OEM one and the ECU sees that as abnormal. If you have a heater code on only one bank and not the other it's likely that you have a wiring, connector or sensor problem for real. It would be helpful if you could provide the exact heater code (IE P0135) as the code can give further information (Is it open, shorted, out of range?).

Of course, yes it was my Delphi scanner tool that said one was faulty. Can't remember the exact code any more. After replacement, now showing both as having a fault code relating to heaters not working. Suspect there is a wiring mismatch between the Land Rover colours and the Sensor colours, but was looking for a simple way to find out for sure with them off the vehicle - getting to the connectors to backprobe etc is impossible while on vehicle as the plugs are half way up the side of the gearbox, next to the transmission tunnel (not enough room to get hand comfortably in there) - The plugs on the new sensors of course were not a match for the Land Rover, so I cut the plugs off the old sensors to adapt the new ones. Use crimp connectors of course and heat shrink and also used the Land Rover braided heat covers from the old sensors for extra protection.

As I said, typical 4 wires O2 sensor will have : 1. Heater power 2. Heater ground (usually power and ground are the same color because they are not polarity sensitive) 3. Signal 4. Signal ground Your generic O2 box or information can probably shed light as to which color is what. As far as the OEM wiring you should search the web for a wiring diagram for your vehicle to properly identify which wire is which. In the case where you don't have a wiring diagram then you you could check for a voltage between any two wires and that will be the heater wires. Remember that an O2 sensor produces it's own voltage on the signal power and ground (0v = lean, 1v = rich). The only power that is supplied to the sensor is for the heater and should only be seen shortly after starting the vehicle (or turning the key on perhaps). You could also take some readings off the old sensor(s). You could check for a low resistance on the heater wires and for a 0-1v signal on the signal wires. I would not recommend this simply because the heaters could have been defective for all we know and because testing an O2 sensor off a vehicle may get tricky; I think some people had success by putting the O2 in a fuel-soaked rag and check for the 1v but an O2 sensor will only give an accurate reading when it has been heated and the O2 needs it's outside portion to be in free air to work right and the fuel might get there.