I believe the ball joint shim is only necessary if the upper control arm is dropped more than one inch.

Here is my modification: I used 1974 Maverick spindles. The Ball joints are offset/asymmetrical giving free caster. I did the One Inch drops too, but I drilled my pilot hole s completely through. Than I biased my upper control shaft rearward 1/8th of an inch rearward. I got 1968 Mustang big block coil springs and cut 1/3rd of one coil off. And used the Shelby alignment specs. The result, the car handles like a Shelby without the front end dropping, the car is level. Export and Monte Carlo bars, 1 " front 5/8th" rear sway bars, polyurethane bushings, 1/2 extra rear leaf spring. And fyi, the parts that wear out the most on a stock Mustang 1st generation are: the upper ball joints, tower bushings, lower arm busting, idler arms. The result too is I did not have to roll my fender wells and I had plenty of tire clearance. I did this 30 years ago before wedges.

Hi ,the purpose of the camber wedge is to keep the ball joint at its original orientation when you do the Shelby mod otherwise when the suspension goes into full bump it is theoretically possible to exceed the ball joints range of movement and it could fail.Hope this helps

4:28 - What is the reason why you didn't weld the old holes of the upper control arm? I think now would have been the right time before you complete everything again. And a color job wouldn't have hurt either.... 11:51 - using of the ball joint shim changes the position of the lubrication nipple downwards in the control arm The lubrication nipple is also covered by the screws, which are much too long. (Why didn't you shorten?) Can you grease the ball joint in a service-friendly way without hurting yourself? I can't belive .....

Nice quick little detailed video. Very informative too but you need a work bench and big vise to save your legs and back.

I did exactly the same to my 66 stang(including the roller perches and wedge) handled way better Great Segment 😊 thanks

I may be wrong but it looks like the tapered washer should be the other way around the thicker side should be on the outside to compensate for the angle. The bottom of the nut should sit flat when it reaches the washer.

All in all...great video. Very clear and well filmed. Curious to know what coils you are using and did you modify them at all ? Also, would have liked to see the finished product with wheels and fenders installed to see ride height and camber. Thanks for taking the time and posting.

thanks for the great info. could you send a link for the drop kit which includes the wedge?thanks

Is there a link to were i can get the shelby drop template because that template isn’t in the kit

There is a critical flaw in the universal RideTech template seen at 3:50 in the video, On a 65-66 the Shelby/Arning drop offsets the holes toward the rear of the car to increase caster, a much needed consideration in the '65-66 cars because caster is only adjustable via shimming during alignment. This $70 kit is a cheap way to obtain the wedge spacers and hardware, but you should obtain the drawings used by Shelby or a proper template from a reputable source like Opentracker Racing for the correct '65-66 locations. The '67-73 cars can use this template without issue.

with the shelby drop what size tires can you run up front ?

Does this kit work with power steering on a 1966 fairlane without modification?

I TOTALLY thought it was blood! Glad it's not!

What size drill do I end up with? Thank just received my identical kit.

Do you have to get different springs by dropping it one inch.?

the kit is now $140.00

$70 is a great price. What is the part number? I cannot find it at CJPP!

The special washer you were addressing is called a Lock Washer, it's main purpose is not for leveling a surface to mount a fastener but for locking the nut to the bolt. It's main purpose is to prevent the nut from backing off the bolt and it should be installed under the nut and over a regular washer.

Wait, you can't do all that work and not show us the stance.