Finally some one that knows how to use what he has great video helped me explain how to a buddy 👌

I always tell the younger techs and managers... why is there always time to do it over but never enough time to do it right!

It takes a lot less time to do it right the first time than doing it over. Whomever said that was right -- and I tended to learn the hard way.

I'm at the stage in a refresh for the heads to go back on the motor. This video was really informative and from the research I did, this seems like the better way to go. Good stuff!

Along with flatness, Ra finish is what is important. This value determined by the gasket used.

Been a while since I've done some engine work, got 2 454's in our boat. Pulled one head off. I came here to see what people are doing to prep. I've used rolocs back in the day. But have had an uneasy feeling about creating uneven surfaces. I believe you are spot on buddy, thanks for posting!

I've had the exact same experience as you. Went to school learned that scrapers, elbow grease etc the correct way. Got out in the field, even asked others, "what's the best gasket prep?" to which I usually would hear, "the fastest. scotch brite discs". Anyway, perpendicular razor has the lowest damage potential, angled on aluminum will cut chunks. Wet sanding with fine grit and WD seems to get things clean fairly quickly. Also, with the straightedge, put it on the surface and shine a flashlight behind it, look at the straightedge from opposite side and... light can't pass if there isn't a gap.

This reminds me of scraping ways on a lathe bed, mill bed ect. Scraping ways

Love how you use the PEPCON explosion for the destruction of the week. Great vids. Thanks.

Best gasket video I‘ve seen. Especially the 220/400 grit part. The last word on cylinder head prep. Thanks 🙏

Ordered those scrapers and it's good to see someone else break out the out the autobody tools in a heavy duty shop I'm a heavy duty tech that grew up in a family bodyshop I will offer the advice that sanding blocks are most effective when use the 45 degree rule if your holding your sanding block parallel to the length of the head or block surface you sand in a 45 degree cross hatch or you have the sanding block on a 45 degree angle to the deck and sand parallel with the deck and change your paper often about 30 swipes by hand or 30 seconds with a sander. Thanks for the videos

the tech-bro almost made me piss myself. I'm fortunate enough to have an excellent tech, like yourself. I see him use straight edge almost every day.

Great methodology and reasoning behind why you prep it the way you do. Will definitely adopt this process

Great video. The funny hat guy was totally hilarious, you gotta put him in more videos. Off the chart on that.

Fantastic video- super informative, no bs. Thanks man. Doing my first head gasket and head replacement on my 06 Mercedes Sprinter Van.

I started doing it the same way couple years ago after I watched a video on KZfaq of a man flat decking an aluminum cylinder head with a straight edge and sandpaper . It got me to thinking about it .

Bought the carbide scraper to clean the deck on my 6oh. Worked incredibly well.

Always done it using various scrapers and sanding. Everyone did back when I started and it’s served me well. My engines don’t come back.

The guy at the machine shop I use (car engines) has told me he likes my prep (plastic scrapers, razor blades and aluminum free scrapers). He told me he has seen several blocks that need resurfaced because of people using roloc and causing low spots. I have yet to have a block that needs decked (SHOCKINGLY, I'm waiting for that run to be over). Didn't know the carbide scrapers existed. That's awesome. For what's it's worth, my last personal build I ended at 500 grit. Gaskets sealed perfectly fine.

Been doing this over 40 years and agree. It's easier to keep it flat than to make it flat.

I’m a marine diesel tech, work on mtu man and cat. We clean decks the same way but if you use some wd 40 with some scotch bright pads after the sand paper it will shine the deck up good and pull a lot debri you can’t see by eye out

Great information, and spot on when flatness is the critical item. I hope we get to see more of Goofy Cat Guy in the future.

Diamond knife sharpening block works really good too for block prep.

Congratulations young man. You recognize what is really important when so many others do not...

Well done bro. Appreciate your humility and ability to adept (adapt) to less evasive cleaning methods. As I tell my guys “abrasives are the devil” when using them “on engine”. I’ve seen DYI guys as well as professionals ruin engines due to not being careful with their use. Keep up the good content

I have a precision a aluminum sanding block that I milled perfectly flat and true and I cover it with sand paper and I sand all my gasket surfaces using numerous grits of sandpaper. I also have a very nice set of precision parallels that I setup using a dial indicator to verify the surface.

I have 3 widths of super scraper for different applications. I love them.

awesome tutorial. I just did the same on a iron block and was having doubts about it. good knowing I'm not the only one. Only thing i did diferently was using an orbital air sander with a 120g disc, and then used a block and by hand using medium low pressure and 150g paper. then I switched to 240g and that's it. it doesnt look too good but feels very smooth. Also I'm a bit experienced on bodywork and used to hand sanding and feeling how smooth a surface when passing the sanding block

I always use the grey rolocs and then finish with the carbide scraper. Love that thing I'll be keeping the flat sanding method in mind though, that could come in handy.

Flat straight an clean keep up the good work been using straight edge for years past on from my Dad retired services Diesel instructor

This carries over for all engines 👍 With some engines such as the 3.6L Pentastar, the timing cover is notorious for leaking anywhere at 12k miles to 60k miles, eventually it'll leak. Guys I work with tend to use die grinders with sanding disks because it saves time...even though it calls for plastic and/or wood scrapers to get the three bond RTV off the surfaces of the engine and timing cover. With the sanding disks you run the risk of making low spots, not great for any type of gasket (RTV or not) and causing further problems. Takes way longer, but better to be done right the first time and not having comeback because you took mating surface material off.

I use a wheel on heavy gasket residue and then wd40 and a machinist stone to finish the block. I will definitely look into getting that carbide scraper, looks awesome. And coming from a military mechanic background I check everything with a straight edge because privates will find a way to ruin the engines so badly.... Also we have a saying "you always have time to do it right the second time!"

I USE A SURFACE STONE WHICH I HAVE HAD FOR 30 YRS FROM BUILDING STEAM TURBINES. IT WORKS GREAT ALONG WITH STRAIGHT EDGE ,FEELERS,WD-40 AND BRAKE CLEANER.THEY MAKE THESE STONES IN DIFFERENT SHAPES AND SIZES,SUCH AS TRIANGLES FOR REDUCTION GEARS AND GIANT QUILL SHAFTS. YOU HAVE GOOD VIDS,KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK OUR COUNTRY NEEDS THAT.

There is always time to do it properly the second time. Let’s get it right the first time! Great video.

As an engineer, I approve your video. Flat, straight and clean just like a fresh machined surface is the way to go.

Straight edge with the feeler gages was the way I was thought and it takes time but you want to do it right the first then pay for it later

thank you sir for flat cleaning your work surfaces .

Amen to flat sanding, you could look up scraping for machines, thanks for teaching

I agree with you. I used to clean same way as you and as I've gotten older changed to cleaning similar to this. I wouldn't suggest using air file. Leave the body work tools for the body men. Enjoy your videos as always

Great video! I used it to clean and check the block on my Triumph TR6. Was able to scrape off all the residue using about 15 single-edge razor blades, so didn't require the carbide scraper even though I ordered one. I bought a 100-pack of blades. They were sharper on one side than the other and the first few strokes with a new blade were really effective. Also used paint remover to soften up the gasket residue. Don't recommend that unless the block is out of the car as it's messy. Plain old paint scraper didn't do anything. Razor blades, sanding block & medium emery paper and accurate straightedge all that was necessary for me.

24" long 3" aluminum 3/8" wall square tube with on side machined perfectly flat. Attach sandpaper to flat side and go to work. I use that tube for everything from gasket surfaces to butcher blocks.

Doing this after 40 years come to see if things have changed, they haven't this is old school and ill be doing it this way again, nice presentation thanks for the refresher. But I will be packing those holes to keep the debris out...

Live and learn. I had an apprentice use air powered die grinder with a abrasive pad on the mating surface on a ballscrew bearing housing on a rebuild job. I had a little talk with him about this. I gave him a lesson on how to use a stone.

today you give some great continent with a bit fun that is really fantastic ,

Very informative video.

I like sanding blocks and stones. Im picking up one of those super scrapers. Tbe roloc bristle discs are more of a time saver in a shop turning out quantities but they are expensive and never true.

Thanks for the videos!

This was wonderful explanation.

Definite clean & flat surfaces is all i wanted bro,thxs for the tips.No more brushes need now ":)

I have been taught to use a knife sharpenig stone with brake clean after a razer blade than block sand and check and i have never had a problem

This is like the best video I’ve found. !!!!!!

Pro tip. Cover rod bearing journals. Before any scraping, or sanding. Don't want debris in oil ports.

A new sharpening stone dedicated to flat surface prep works great as well. It shows any high points after a couple of passes especially around pulled bolt holes

I switched to scraping and sanding also years ago👍👍

Once scraped clean i use a 5 inch wide half inch thick piece of glass with wet paper going down in grit as I go.👍

Really like your videos I learn a lot from you thanks

I use the rol-lock for small flanges but nothing more. I replaced the head gaskets on my ford 4.6l and put clean oil soaked paper towels down in the piston bores and used a razor scraper and scotch brite by hand to clean the head gasket surface

Just saw this method from an older mechanic on a Toyota rebuild channel. Straight edge with the feeler gauges is definitely the way to go

I started doing this a couple years ago. I too used the roloc but I ran into problems on a 3400 block and that was the turning point for me. It blows my mind how many technicians don't check the block and heads with a straight edge.

Those are my preferred methods of cleaning and checking gasket surfaces also not because I was taught but through experience and a bit of common sense.

I am no mechanic myself but have taken some heads over the years to a machine shop to get skimmed to true it or valves/seats ground etc and I asked the owner of the shop what should I be using to clean the block deck with and he was adamant that I only scrape and do not use abrasive roloc's for the uneven mess they can create plus the abrasive dust, no sand paper, nor any form of hand type scotch brite pad because it has abrasive on it as well and claimed many an engine has been ruined just from those hand scotch brite pads. The problem he pointed out is that any abrasive that falls down into the engine which would be into the valley of a pushrod cam in block engine for instance or any oil passages within the block deck will end up pumping through the bearings and imbed themselves into the bearing and sooner or later bite you in the rear. Oh I imagine if the block was totally torn down and all oil gallery end plugs removed and dipped and so forth is one thing but its this top end work with the block in the piece of equipment that doesn't allow for complete cleaning. I feel the pain as well, picking away with a scraper and it never ends with taking minute quantities of gasket material off and wish there was a better way also. Adept Ape, I really enjoy your channel as do other farmers I know as you have a vast knowledge of Cat engines. With this frustrating gasket removal issue, how about you make it one of your missions to talk to various engine machine shops and if you know anyone higher up in the racing engine rebuild world, perhaps there are some secret methods most of us have never heard of.

Good video! - as an aircraft engineer we were trained to lap any flat surface- on a head or block the area between cylinder can be low causing a leak if not spotted

A pair of flat machinist stones or knife honing stones are also a great tool to have in the toolbox. The carbide scrapers have also been a game changer for me.

Great video it's about time someone put out a video addressing this having been a caterpillar mechanic for 20+ years started at the dealership and for the last 12 independent to many people think if has to be shinny metal before it's clean

Interesting stuff

I've started using a large granite footstone I picked up from a local monument company with various grits of sandpaper glued to it. It not only provides the needed weight for the paper to cut but also helps flatten raised areas for a more uniform surface. Me and William Martin (name of the stone) have done several blocks and heads and not a single one has ever leaked. I paid $40 for the foot stone and the guy threw in a smaller 1 foot square that the customer never picked up. If you're still using surface disc better be careful not to create a gouge between the liners.

I start out with a scraper then move to flat sanding. I have a 20lb square piece of granite that had been ground flat and smooth. The weight of the granite is enough to do the job, so I just have to go back and fourth in different directions with different grits of wet-dry paper.

I never used the rollock wheels for critical gaskets. Scrapers, quarter sheet sanding block and finish up with a 14 inch mill file without a handle laid flat.

REALLY well done. Quality work, a job well done is so much more satisfying that just quick and easy and … not right! :-)

I used a brand new knife sharpening block on my 5.9 Cummins worked good. Amazing how many high spots on the block I found and worked down flat with just the stone.

I like the sharpening stones..

Great video! thx

A handy trick is to take carbide inserts for machining and braze them to old screwdrivers. Makes for excellent scrapers.

8:00 The wooden handle " super scraper " . Carbide edge, awesome scraper. I keep in mind, any crud that goes down the cylinder, could end up in a rod journal oil passage. Cover the journal, or brake clean it out too.

Great topic, so often I’ve seen top deck destroyed by the users of these discs, in Australia these discs started to appear from the local Snap On man 20 years or so ago selling them out of their truck to all the local mechanics shops and dealerships, in the hands of an apprentice it would almost lead to failure every time, the worst one iv repaired required.017” stock removal to get back to a clean up, but hey it was shining, when they were used on the smaller petrol engines it wasn’t uncommon for them spinning con rod bearings after head work was recently done, the cause was the aluminium oxide from the disc getting into the oil after cleaning the top deck, it can’t be filtered and it’s abrasive, once again great topic, bottom line do not use these discs, wast of time and money.

You can also check the Ra and Rz numbers with a profilometer and compare with the gascket surface finish requirements.

Deboss Garage had guys from down under (The skid factory) over to the DB shop. The one Aussie finish planed a 6BT block with a whet stone, by hand, like you use to sharpen knives.

I worked 2 years in an engine machine shop. We used wire cup wheels, but always careful not to eat into the metal. And most blocks or heads were getting resurfaced anyway, though quite a few weren't and it wasn't an issue. I do like your method though, using a wire wheel makes a big mess and I wouldn't do it to an engine that isn't fully disassembled and getting jet washed. Lots of places I wouldn't want pieces of wire going on an in frame rebuild.

I typically use a whetstone...works pretty well.

I started stoning my blocks during rebuilds. I got into using them after I started millwrighting. I was told by a old engine builder that those scotch bright wheels on a die grinder would take some metal away. I know for a fact you can stone for a hour straight and it wont take .001" off lol. we use them on turbine shells all the time. They will instantly show up any high spots you may have on a block. Anyhow, great video!

Used that same foam block for years.

When doing DIY paint and body work I was taught to run your hands over EVERY surface you sand as you go. To me at me least flat sanding and some touch/feel seems legit for a decent head/block mating surfaces making good sealing contact with a gasket. Shite and briney looks nice, but a proper seal and job brings longevity to the motor.

Thanks for this vid

Great advice. I got the whizzy wheel / cookies in the engine *bad* lesson a long time ago from a seasoned veteran tech. He said exactly the same things you said "think that gasket gives a shit if the deck is shiny"? Flat and clean is what matters most.

It doesn't matter how light you are on the pressure, without a lapping block or a rigid sanding block, you are still going to have a slight "bowling" affect if you are sanding across the liner openings in the deck with the foam sanding block you are using. You may as well be using the scotchbrite pad. If you have a very large machine file, you could wrap your sandpaper around it. There will be less "bowling" affect with it.

Those zip wheels spray abrasive all over. I think that is a bad idea.

I would use a pneumatic long sander. A body and fender supply house would carry a nice model. That will help with the heavy crap. End up with the hand flat sander.

I work on mostly light duty stuff. I start with brake clean and a carbide scraper. Then I use a knife sharpening stone that I keep soaked in transmission fluid. After it is thoroughly cleaned, I wipe it with lacquer thinner. Never had one come back.

I knew a guy who would "machine" has own aluminium cylinder heads. He got a huge thick block of glass and glued sand paper to it. Then he rubbed the cylinder head on it until it was flat. It worked.

You would also expect the smooth polished surface the roloc wheel leave to be less effective in other words it would be expected to hold less side pressure prior to failing given a sanded surface leaves very small sharp ridges that would bite into the softer gasket material better preventing any slipping where there’s a narrow strip of bearing such as between cylinders

Id always flat sand blocks and heads on old flat 6 dodge motors. Use a straight edge and feeler gauges to find high and low spots

i use a 12 in sharpening stone, it has 2 different grits and it wont flex like a long board.

I ran a cylinder head resurfacing machine for three years the roloc wheel will knock cast iron out about two and a half thousands of an inch I'm in aluminum head it can be up to 10,000 roloc is the worst razor blades Scotch-Brite and brake cleaner you got it right

I've used a DA sander with 6" 180 grit discs for years. Works very well to sand down Belzona too.

I work in a power plant. We do a lot of work where thats close doesnt work. Everything has a given clearance. Make it right the first time.

Thanks mate

I always use a razor blade scrapper then use the wheel. I spend about 15 mins with the razor then 25 mins with the wheel and straight edge them to .002 as well and have never had any issues. I also do that with aluminum heads and blocks (I use the blue pads for aluminum) also use magnaflux to check for cracks when I'm working with aluminum.

When I started out rebuilding engines , after the block deck was cleaned we always took a bastard file to check for small areas of level like around individual cylinder holes than we moved up to a longer straight edge that would from one corner of block to other . Several ole ole ole Detroit's I had to use good old #1 Hardening Permatex to fill in the low spots . Never had a failure as long as block was super clean no oil or old gasket material left . I think the worst one was around .20 thousands difference due to coolant leakage in that area . Plus that bastard file left you with a good surface grip . There was one 8V71 series a customer brought in with a leak on the right bank , once the engine got up to operate temp you could see The Head walking back & forth on the block . Let the engine cool an checked torque on the nuts as it had studs in the block . Whoever had machined the deck several years back took off way too much material. The customer wasn't happy with that news !!, Another time we had one come in with low compression an burning oil something fierce after another Shop had did a rebuild, I think he had like a 5 thousand mile warranty Or some such stuff , I watched as one of the old guys in the shop ran about 3 handfuls of bon-ami thru the intake as the engine was running , an sure as shit afterwards that sucker stopped burning oil , of course I got stuck doing the oil change as the then New Shop Puppy .

I like the 12” Ingersol pneumatic sanding board with 80 grit. Use those wiz wheels on a 6.0 power stoke motor and the gasket won’t last 5 miles.. Makes low spots in the deck, especially between cylinders.

Well done kitty cat man👍