Congratulations! I hope you enjoy the restoration process as much as I do!

I totally understand, I love how years of use give these machines character but they still make excellent stitches. When I see the little scuffs and scratches it makes me think of all the things they have been through and the people who sewed on them. Thanks for commenting!

Thank you so much!

Thank you so much 😀

Thank you! So happy you are enjoying the videos!

You are very welcome! Thank you for the encouraging words and good luck with your model 27, how fun!

I agree, the dings tell a story. And that would be a very interesting machine to see! To me, if it stitches well I am a happy girl!

@@SewingMachineRehab hi, I'd be happy to show you a photo if I knew how to upload to KZfaq 😊

@@MarleyBu I don’t think there is a way to upload photos in the comments but you can email it to jen@sewingmachinerehab.com

Hi! I am as well! The 201 will be easier in some ways I think except for the motor and wiring. A little different set-up and you need a LOT more grease! Can’t wait to tackle it!

Zymol is so great! The crinkle finish is a little more difficult but it can be done. I use a damp rag to wipe it down and dry quickly after. If the rag leaves lint, I vacuum it off :) Any grimy places you can use sewing machine oil or a penetrating oil to try to get it off. I don’t try to wax the crinkle finishes, just oil and then wipe as much of it away as possible. Hope that helps!

Thank you for your suggestions for cleaning my crinkle finish.! @@SewingMachineRehab

Hi! Yes I have. I love everything from the Featherweight shop except for that. It works but not as well. It also smells like shoe polish (to me) and it’s a two step process. When doing an entire machine it’s nice to not have to go over everything twice. I wish I could say that I loved the Sew Retro Clean and Shine but it’s the one thing I just haven’t warmed up to. Hope that helps!

Hi! Yes, you can but I don’t think it does much. I prefer to use a dremel and a white polishing compound on the chrome plated parts. Unless they are really rusted and pitted a good cleaning is all they need to make them usable, the rest is just fluff. Do what you can and then enjoy the fruits of your labor!

I haven’t tried it, at least I don’t think I have. Is there a particular brand you were thinking of or could you give one as an example? I will look into it for sure, always looking for better ways!

@@SewingMachineRehabfor lack of a known micron information, I used Mother’s aluminum polish (10,000 micron grit, which is aluminum oxide). I can’t say to use it , my vesults might be unique. Best of fun and success to everyone.

@@SewingMachineRehab Any top brand like Meguiar's or DuPont would be safe

I haven’t tried the French polish so good to know yours dried quickly. I have only read that it can take a long time to dry…

Yes, understandable, Lacquer and shellac are frequently interchanged when spoken about, and I'm sure there are things that take a long time. It took 3 weeks for one of my concoctions for wood to dry (First coat), it contained varnish, beeswax, and unboiled linseed oil. I've worked with wood, never metal, which takes longer I would guess, because metal doesn't absorb anything. Have no fears, everything is fixable, (ust maybe not easy). @@SewingMachineRehab

That is correct! I am hoping to try the method out one day, I would love to see if I could get the results that I have seen others get. It really would be a great option if the lacquer was degraded at all, maybe it would bring some life back to it. I have watched a lot of videos where others have done it. It is on my bucket list. :)

@@SewingMachineRehab I wish you great success. I hope it's easy, and turns out fine. I'm looking at different light bulbs also. I don't know how hot these get, I messaged the company, but today is Labor Day, and it's closed. SYLVANIA 58831 - CAX-120 It is the correct configuration to fit the machine, , , the Base in the singer is a : BA15d and the bulb is also. The advantage is ; from what I understand,, closer to true than LED or fluorescent, and it's 750 Lumens.

Thank you. I looked at that bulb, I think that they would get hot, at least more than the LED. I know you can buy at least two different tones in the LED, I tend to go with the warm white. However, if it were in a machine like the 301 or the 404 series I don't think the heat would matter as much because you tend to touch around that area less. I think the 221's and any of the vintage models with the lamp on the back would be the ones I would want to use the LED lights in, just because you tend to touch or bump those shades a little more easily.@@thomasgronek6469

@@SewingMachineRehab I am really torn, I like the warm white, and have them in my favorite lamps, unfortunately, at 64 I need something more intense and color-true, (rather color blind as it is). I have an original bulb in the 301 and it’s great, just not bright enough (I polished the inside of the cover but it still isn’t strong enough) , (I used Mother’s aluminum polish, for that, and ( don’t cringe or throw things at me, , , the whole machine). It worked fine for me, but variations of paint formulations might not make it very nice on other machines, even changes from year to year could have made that decision a very bad one

@@thomasgronek6469 I missed this reply, well....if it worked then no harm done! But, I agree that it could have less fortunate results on a different machine. Hope you found a bulb you are happy with!

Hi! I am trying out the Sony ZV-E10. Just with the kit lense. I also use a DJI wireless mic. I edit in Final Cut Pro. I am about to shoot my second video with the camera, changing some settings this time. I had been using my iphone up until now, and I have to say it shot great video. Hoping I like this camera even more!

Industrial pure mineral/synthetic sewing machine oil with viscosities from 15 to 30. For example, what is for industrial sewing machines such as Yuki and Brother. It is packed in 0.5 to 3 liters bottles and much cheaper than brand oil.

Fantastic. Thank you. Where is your favorite place to shop for this? @@user-zx9cf6xb4q

Hi! You know, when it comes to sewing machine oil all you really need is a Lily White. My guess is that most sewing machine oils on the market is really just Lily White, sold under different label names. I could be wrong but it just makes sense. You can purchase a decent sized bottle on Amazon and it will last you a long time. It is clear and truly a great oil for sewing machines. I don’t go for anything that has any kind of additive like teflon, even though I used to when I first started working on machines. I find the further along I go in my journey, the more of a purist I become. I hope that helps!

Do you mean an oil like Lily White? What is in the 3 in 1? I am interested in the different viscosities, do you think it matters when it comes to cleaning the machine with oil vs. actually oiling the moving parts?

Thank you sooo much. Very helpful . @@SewingMachineRehab

Good call, sometimes it’s best to just leave it as is. I always test in a small inconspicuous area and then decide if I should invest any more elbow grease in polishing the body. Sometimes the finish is just shot but thankfully the finish never affects how well the machine can run!

Wow! You have been busy! I think depending on the make and model of the machine you could have different types of clear coats so what applies to one may not apply to another. My guess is you are taking notes as you go though. I hope you get this one sorted to a point that you are satisfied with it and thanks for sharing all you are discovering!

Thanks for your time and attention on this, do you think that the old shellac was redistributed or do you think it was removed in the process? If the shellac is totally removed then the paint underneath can be polished to a shine but usually the decals are silvered. And you will see imperfections in the paint. I have removed or polished away the shellac and could still shine the paint that was underneath. It is fun to experiment and I appreciate you sharing your results!

You are welcome, I'm happy to share my results. I think it was redistributed after the first attempt due to the fact that the second attempt had that shellac stickyness when I started the second round, but it is rather thin from what I can tell, and pondered the same question when i finished the second application of ethanol. It wouldn't surprise me if the shellac is gone at any given time during the process. I continued on last night an added 4 fresh coats of WellerMart Platina color shellac (Platina is the lightest color I could find, lighter than super blond [edit; addition: A home blended, one pound cut was used (1 pound /gallon of ethanol, I scaled it down ] ). It now sits covered with four coats, but is still dull. I will make my first attempt ever with french polishing, But I will practice on a piece of wood, then do the extension. One is supposed to wait a day between french polish layers, (three are recommended), so I might not reporting results for at least a week. Up until now, this has not been quick and easy, I don't see it getting easier on the whole bed. @@SewingMachineRehab