Climbing chat: Performance Rock Shoe reviews and waffle, lots of waffle! Scarpa, LaSportiva, etc

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Climbing chat: Performance Rock Shoe reviews and waffle, lots of waffle! Scarpa, LaSportiva, etc

Рет қаралды 3,939

Күн бұрын

This is long and pretty dry but hopefully of some interest and use! Shoe chat is always going to be fairly subjective and I can't get close to trying every shoe I would like to. As I stress in the video, get to a decent shop like Outside and try as many on as you can.
Shoe sizes:
Solution (and Comp): 43.5
Skwama: 43
Instinct: 45.5
Iati: 44 (would prefer 43.5 for similar fit to others)
Phantom (and Shaman Pro): 46.5
Newtro: 46.5
Street shoe size: 47
Massive thanks to Outside, Beta Climbing, Dark Ventures, Scarpa UK and Beyond Hope for helping with the supply of shoes!
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Пікірлер: 24

@JBMountainSkills 5 ай бұрын

A quick note to add: The Scarpa website has some good info on how their shoes fit as I think they have more of a variety of fits than most brands.

@audiojck1 5 ай бұрын

As someone with problematic feet I can just say that most brands have different lasts and fits. The charts can give a first idea what might fit, but if possible try the shoes in a shop. Also sizing is not consistent. I have a Scarpa Veloce in size 40 and Scarca Instincts in 41.5. The instincts feel tighter for me. But same with La Sportiva. I love the Otakis, but I can't even stuff my feet in some of the other models. Cobra for example crushes my small toes.

@liamtaylor74 5 ай бұрын

My favourite climbing channel on youtube. Just a well informed bloke with a love for the sport. Looking forwards to a mega summer climbing then 3 months bolt clipping next week. Take care, liam

@JBMountainSkills 5 ай бұрын

Very kind, enjoy your climbing!

@tallclimbing 5 ай бұрын

Been looking forward to this one! nothing better than climbing shoe waffle

@JBMountainSkills 5 ай бұрын

Glad you liked it!

@dougdobkowski 5 ай бұрын

More people need to make a video like this. well done, sir

@JBMountainSkills 5 ай бұрын

Very kind

@JackGClimbs 5 ай бұрын

Currently got the Skwamas and Instinct laces, has scarpa vapours and found them way too stiff, tried other shoes which feel too narrow. Great video!

@Ben-ew3hv 5 ай бұрын

I love my iatis and have used them for all sorts. Only thing i would say is, now im approaching a second resole they have completely flattened out and have no downturn to speak of. Good to hear that solutions will probably be a good shape for me though since ive had my eye on a pair for a while

@JBMountainSkills 5 ай бұрын

I hear you! I think because construction is pretty lightweight they don’t have the structure to keep their shape.

@ikkenendendikken1 5 ай бұрын

I have a pointy foot. Both the iati and the solution fit me quite well.

@PAClimber 5 ай бұрын

You should check out the Scarpa vapor Vs. They are a bit narrower than the Instincts

@JBMountainSkills 5 ай бұрын

cheers

@sidious-dy9rh 4 ай бұрын

Its funny the different experiences people have with shoes, i found evolvs some of the best shoes for me. Found them to be soft and sticky and hard wearing. I have shamen 2s which are by far my favorites, have phantoms and orocles. Sent my hardest climbs in them. My second favorite would be skwamas they would be my go to all rounder.

@JBMountainSkills 4 ай бұрын

Yeah a friend of mine wears Phantoms for everything and climbs a little harder than me, he loves them!

@sidious-dy9rh 4 ай бұрын

@@JBMountainSkills think really the best shoes are the 1s you are most comfortable with that fit you the best. Great video and input.

@Robert-ys9zy 5 ай бұрын

Appreciate the review.

@JBMountainSkills 5 ай бұрын

You’re welcome 👊

@Blue-pb7kz 5 ай бұрын

I'm curious if the women's Scarpa Instincts would suit you, or the Instinct S, they're meant to be narrower than the men's! I accidentally bought the Instinct S (found someone selling them second hand for really cheap and near new) after trying on and loving the VSR in store. I have quite wide feet and the VS/VSR fit really great but I found the S to be a bit too narrow for me and I'm assuming it'd be the same for the women's given scarpa's chart.

@JBMountainSkills 5 ай бұрын

Good suggestion but they don’t go up to my size.

@maayazi 5 ай бұрын

What kind of footshape do you have?

@JBMountainSkills 5 ай бұрын

Probs closest to Egyptian

@maayazi 5 ай бұрын

@@JBMountainSkills Ok that makes most sense then that La Sportiva fits you so well. I am kind of Greek type, so I found 5.10 and Unparallel better fits