Scarpa up the ante: The Generator and Generator Mid

Рет қаралды 12,610

Күн бұрын

In a day and age where shoes seem to be getting softer and softer, the quest to find a supportive trad shoe feels increasingly tough. Lovely though it is to feel each and every rugosity beneath your feet, there's no benefit to that if you're not able to stand on it for 30 minutes whilst fiddling in a wire, building a belay, or trying not to have a panic attack. The Generator and Generator Mid buck the trend, with bagfuls of support and structure which promise all-day comfort and an impressive level of performance.
#tradclimbing #crackclimbing
Intro 00:00
What's it for? 01:31
Performance 02:37
Low or Mid? 07:25
Generator vs TC Pro 09:13
Summary 10:58

Пікірлер: 30

@jackgraham1450 11 ай бұрын

I really like these boots, they are great for all types of climbing in my opinion!

@galaxyguy4522 6 ай бұрын

I’m so interested 😁 and they look really cool! I’m gonna try the generator mid personally cause I’m in the US 😁

@darrenmarney8577 11 ай бұрын

Scarpa was great 20 plus years ago 👌 Solid design & great width for my wide feet 🤫 And now I'm struggling to find any brand that fits correctly 😶

@gyateste6191 2 ай бұрын

my feet are asymmetrical, and I was fortunate enough to try both the tc pro and the generator mid. my approach shoes are 41, and i tried them both first with 40.5. the generator mid were extremely painful at the toe box, but the tc pro were snug, but a bit too big, so i downsized to 40, and it fitted like a glove. everything around my feet felt comfortable and snug, while if i had chosen the generator mid, it would have been roomie and tight at all the wrong places, so the decision were simple. I cant wait climb outdoors with them.

@ukclimbingofficial Ай бұрын

As always with climbing shoes, it all comes down to fit - what works for one person doesn’t necessarily work for the next

@gyateste6191 Ай бұрын

@@ukclimbingofficial true! And I've chosen wrong pair of shoes 3 times now, but finally understood the importance of knowing how a shoe should fit. Earlier I've been buying down sized shoes in hopes they would fit after the break in, something they never did! The time I bought a 39,5 theory, is the dumbest thing I've ever done! They never really expanded, and i ended up with snug shoes that cut blood flow to my toes. Such a bummer, if i bought them in 40 or 40,5 they would have been the best shoes i ever had!

@grigorbrowning 11 ай бұрын

I'll be interested to try these. The Maestro-mid was a shoe I wanted to like but the ankle area was terrible for my feet (EU39). It felt like Scarpa had simply shrunk everything down from the larger sizes without much thought - the cuff seam sat directly on my ankle bone, offering discomfort in place of protection. It does sometimes feel that shoe designers don't adjust heel details well across the small end of the size range.

@ukclimbingofficial 11 ай бұрын

I really wanted to like the Maestro/Maestro Mid, but it didn’t work for me either - and my feet (at least in theory) fit within those larger sizes, so maybe it’s just a general Maestro thing. Suspect this is a part of the reason why they discontinued it.

@lucasm2940 11 ай бұрын

Ah yes the three horsemen edging cracks and sensitivity

@ukclimbingofficial 11 ай бұрын

the apocalypse occurs when one or more fail mid crux 😅

@davidmcgregor2328 11 ай бұрын

As a long time scarpa fan (and keen to try the new Generator should my size ever become available ☹️) I was interested to see in a recent UKC report that Angus Kille sent The Meltdown in a pair of Maestros. Included amongst the pics was one of him working it in a pair of Generators. It would seem at least on this climb and for Angus the Maestros won out over the Generators in the extreme edging department. Kinda curious as the Generator appears definitely this stiffer and hence potentially better at edging of the two.

@ukclimbingofficial 10 ай бұрын

Angus' use of the Maestro has always surprised me, but at the end of the day - everyone has their own individual preference. I'd certainly opt for the Generator every time as far as edging is concerned. The Maestro felt floppy in comparison. Angus is obscenely strong though, so maybe he doesn't need that extra support 😅

@charlessamson7668 11 ай бұрын

Have you ever tried the Evolv equivalent : the Yosemite Bum? Trying the Generator out in a store, it felt like it butt against the front of my big toe like the agonizing maestros. I am wondering if this would go away after wearing them in. The yosemite bums seem comfier for me but they don't seem as rigid.

@ukclimbingofficial 11 ай бұрын

I haven’t unfortunately - they’re not readily available in the UK 😪 It’s always tricky trying to second guess how a shoe will feel after a few months use whilst trying it on in store isn’t it?! If there were to be some good news it’s that because they wear in quite quickly it won’t take you too long to find out, although I’m aware that isn’t overly helpful. As always: go with whatever feels best on your feet…

@conorevans1137 11 ай бұрын

Interestingly I've just blindly ordered a pair of Generators and had the same issue with the my big toe - laced them up with a heel lock instead and now my big toe sits nicely in the top box and the pain is gone.

@Alessandromarangoni123 20 күн бұрын

I have tried the evolv….sent it back quickly because they not have any protection for crack climbing, I have the generator that I am using in val orco and I love them, the new tc pro with the plastic for my feet it’s very uncomfortable, I am suggesting half size down

@korbendallas1210 11 ай бұрын

I ve tried generator mid recently. I did not find them comfortable because of the horizontal seam in the back of the shoe:(

@ukclimbingofficial 10 ай бұрын

It's tricky isn't it. At the end of the day what works vs. what doesn't comes down to small details such as this.

@thomaslees5959 11 ай бұрын

I have a pair of the Scarpa generators. The shoe itself is great. But the tongue is really poorly designed and it came apart after just 3 climbs (two indoors, one outdoor). They are marketed as a tough trad shoe but they fell apart extremely quickly. Would definitely not recommend.

@ukclimbingofficial 11 ай бұрын

Did you send them back under warranty? That definitely doesn’t sound normal…

@SileDevil 6 ай бұрын

but is it better than the OG Five Ten Blanco? probably not..still looking for a shoe that can replace the Blancos.

@ukclimbingofficial 6 ай бұрын

Our opinion is that things have moved on quite a bit since those shoe designs!

@SileDevil 6 ай бұрын

@@ukclimbingofficial for all day comfort and slabs they are hard to beat! no wonder why scarpa keeps trying and trying. Oh and Steve Mclure climbs some crazy trad routes with the Blancos still.

@thesii213 11 ай бұрын

Curious that these didn't get a lot of love on MP relative to the new TC? But then again, neither have any of the other new high tops... (also hey when's that veloce lace review can I get a pre-review review did they fix the heel plz say yes)

@ukclimbingofficial 11 ай бұрын

There’s definitely an element of ‘the cult of the TC Pro’. I was actually expecting more negative feedback following this review as a result of this… When it comes to the Veloce Lace, I should be able to get back to you on this relatively soon as Tim is now well underway with his review.

@thesii213 11 ай бұрын

@@ukclimbingofficial Yep, I think that's it. It's one of those shoes that's so impactful that all others are judged against it, and any variance from the exact formula is viewed as a negative development. Also interesting to see what Scarpa will do the Vapor Lace in light of the Generator?

@rorymarston7849 11 ай бұрын

Also interested to see the veloce lace review. I actually got a pair, went another half eu size down from my original veloces. The heel design seems pretty much identical to me - but the addition of the lace closure does a slightly better job of retaining the heel when heel hooking. The heel still has a bit of that weird bagginess around the bottom of the heel, where the upper kind of 'folds' against the PAF rubber. Wish they'd just give it an instinct/drago style heel personally. Although , the amazing comfort and smearing of the veloce still makes them my favourite shoes for 95% of my climbing! Just occasionally have to cram into my instincts for any heel-heavy problems.

@lizardking8840 11 ай бұрын

I tried on a couple pairs of the mids, comfortable as can be but my heel did not fit the shoe at all. Kept slipping out of the heel pocket as opposed to TCs which locked it right in. Any reason that may be?

@ukclimbingofficial 11 ай бұрын

Interesting question, but a hard one to answer. Of the two I’d have expected more heel slip with it the TC Pro as that’s got a much broader heel. The Generator is much narrower, which should help lock your heel in much better, so maybe there’s something else going on - is it that the rest of the shoe is higher volume? Always tricky to pinpoint what’s, as there’s so many factors at play.

@lizardking8840 11 ай бұрын

I thought the same thing as TC is supposed to have a larger heel. My guess is that the slight downturn added to the generator doesn't agree with my foot. Increased volume in the rest of the shoe could very well be the reason for lack of lock on my heel.@@ukclimbingofficial