Source?

@@alexsosic swagger in sarcasm. Good man

I think he’s commenting on the fact that sponsors tend to support athletes who get attention, and this is leading the pro climbing world to attempt more dangerous climbs. If you watch the red bull documentary below you see exactly what I mean. Brad Gobright, Emily Harrington, etc.

@@MusicBent I think you missed the joke. Honnold and Caldwell "making a name for themselves" is the joke. They're both insanely famous already.

@@Mdjagg Fame is something that needs maintenance, though. I get your point, but it's still not wrong to say it like he did.

Right on 🤙🏻

Right climbing is only as dangerous as you want it to be. Well said! 🤙🏻

Jonathan Nagel I’m assuming it was low grade. I personally wouldn’t simul anything over 5.7 unless I was climbing with some one very skilled. You really have to have a lot of confidence in your partner and yourself to not make any mistakes. Must have been one hell of a great view 👍🏻

BetaClimbers - yes it was a popular route I forget the name of, but busy as a Sunday golf course, with teams frequently passing one another. There were few moves I’d say 5.8, and only one real moment of exposure: blindly leaping around a corner the size of a refrigerator. Whoever did it first must have taken a mirror on a stick up there, because it’s 1,000’ down with no visual on what lays ahead.

@@BetaClimbers Theoretically you could simul climb without risking a fall bigger than you would normally leading a pitch if you kept the rope tight and clipped it as often as you normally would. In practice people run it out when they simul so that lead blocks can be longer with a smaller rack, and obviously you need a solid partnership to do it effectively, but it's a really fun way to cover a ton of ground. It's rad to crush the 200m of 5.6 in 30 minutes do get to the fun 5.10 climbing.

Don't knock it till you try it. Doesn't have to be hairball just to get some real exposure. I find it quite relaxing

I'm assuming there was another piece of gear or anchor of some sort above Alex (off screen) that Tommy had already clipped. Tommy was well above this last piece of protection when he fell, and Alex had just unleashed all that extra slack. The rope tied to Alex's harness combined with whatever piece of protection Tommy had clipped caught Tommy's fall.

Correct. And one them took a dangerous fall and got pretty badly injured. Scary stuff.

Kelvin Climber appreciate the comment! 🤙🏻

Josef Berns will do thanks for the idea!

Someone said that on Joe Rogan alex explained that he jusrt had enough time to brace himself against the rock as hard as he could!

Rostam likes rock it is pretty difficult to control the amount of slack the leader is getting. This can be a problem if he has a falling and hitting a ledge hazard or anything of the like. A fixed belay can watch and protect the leader much safer. But as the grades get easier and the likelihood of a fall decrease you can say so then does the “danger”. It is definitely a more risky form of climbing but is quicker. As you can see Alex has to have Tommy on belay with a gri gri just to try and manage slack so while he is climbing he is always adjusting that, which is pretty difficult if your on anything hard. So to answer your question it all depends on the particular hazards of that route. Both the leader and belayer should know the route very well and know when to slow down and protect certain areas. Now if the route is all 5.3 I’d imagine it would be like alpinists walking across an ice shelf protecting each other from a crevasse fall how be it safer because they have “bolts” between themselves. It all boils down to the climbers skill in the end. A bad belayer can me much more dangers then a good simul belay. Really hard to put an over all danger rating. So bolts... I’d say yeah could be safer depends. Lol

the issue becomes the amount of quickdraws you're carrying, if you end up having to meet up every 2 pitches you don't save much more time than you would pitching stuff out

For one that was not a uiaa fall. Second you don't get a total number of uiaa falls in the life of a rope.

@@rushthezeppelin apologies for not breaking out a calculator and bunch of guesstimations to have an argument about what the actual physics of the fall were, but the comment was more about a "I would want to check my gear" sentiment than manufacturing standards. Peace ✌

He was “tied” into two places. The end of the rope and his grigri. He takes Tom off belay from the grigri which drops all the slack out for Tom. Alex’s next step would then be to reach the rope above him and put it back into the grigri. By doing this he essentially jumped up above the protection to his left he would then have to untie from the end of the rope and pull the slack In from under the grigri to pull the rope off the protection to his left. He could have made a fatal error here and completely untied from the end and the grigri to try and save some time be he stayed tied in to the end.

@@BetaClimbersThanks for explaining this. So the "catch" was basically the full rope length?

@@andrewdineen2387 Yepp exactly

Thank you - I was trying to figure out how he was getting above that protection on the left

François Yepez yeah.

Thnks, great video!!

Ouch

Sheep Music 🤣 I guess I have to now!

Trad/big wall/ mountaineering have much greater inherent risks than sport climbing

It depends on the climb. In some cases a greater reach allows you to get to better holds. On other routes, you can get tangled on longer limbs in a tight position. Overall, it's probably height probably helps more than it hurts, but something will be tricky either way. WEIGHT is absolutely a bigger factor, but height does not necessarily equal weight. I'd say the key to climbing hard often comes down to a strength-to-weight ratio.

Judging by how much slack got sucked up and how far Tommy fell id say there was nothing acting as a stop like a trax between them at that point. If there was though that rope would have been really mest up after that fall.

working on your hip flexibility is great, especially for smaller people. Being able to be closer to the wall gives you much more range. And work on your foot technique, there are tons of videos for that, both things will help you a lot. And, most important, climb climb climb :D

@@bemde thanks dude!

4K editing machine!...or computer yeah.

tryitout - yeah have seen them use the trax like I use but I think they must use one with out teeth and more like caming device. Can’t imagine the rope damage you would get from 100 ft whipper on any of those devices.

Jen Yates that was an exaggeration the nose is 3000ft so I’m sure they put more then 6 pieces in. Maybe Brad and Jim did that. 😂

hamishlivo yeah it’s probably an anchor set up an a couple bolts. But they where running up that thing probably every other day if not everyday. I wouldn’t be surprised if there was an note that said please don’t touch 😂

46th

Does your wife get notifications from KZfaq not from you, Josh? That's funny :)

I actually do 😂 I fully support his channel!

She also has an unfair advantage because I scream “ITS UP” just about every time. Gunna be a hard one to beat! 🤣

I love you, guys! You are awesome 🤗

Alex had just United and didn’t have it anchored, he had to wedge into the crack

Sorry about reply to dead thread. Since the other reply to you wasn't clear, Honnold had the end of the rope figure8 tied to his harness, then a bunch of slack, then passed through the grigri, then up to tommy. He dropped what was on the grigri, and said he had just enough warning to wedge himself into the rock to catch tommy with the rope end tied to his harness. That's why there was so much more slack in the system than tommy expected, and why tommy didn't fall to his death. Seems like some friction between all the rope and the pieces/rock helped Honnold. Check him out on Rogan for the story. Hearing Honnold talk about free soloing only things he "knows for a fact" he can do without falling, I think Honnold would say this climb was more dangerous than him soloing cap. He seemed much less in control and took some falls here with unknown amounts of slack in the system. Doesn't seem smart for someone that seems decently calculating like him.

😂