I think what’s explained in the video is that it’s 2 parabolas, but they are in opposite direction with respect to the wall? The shape is the same, but the dead point parabola would end up inside the wall, whereas the dyno would end up away from the wall. I still can relate with the point that the holds are caught at different points in the curve, since with dyno there’s still a lot of momentum left when catching

Agreed, it would be easier and clearer to explain it your way. The additional terminology isn't needed and might confuse more people than it helps.

@@cxgsdgs Gravity is always pointing in the same direction so the parabola of most efficient movement is always pointing in the same direction. Trying to follow a curve in any other direction would be impossible without a significant amount of external force. Comparing his deadpoint and dyno on the moonboard at 6:12 you can see that his hips are following a "backwards C curve" towards the wall in both cases. The only difference is that the dyno has a larger vertical component of velocity and more swing at the end.

@@luke_the_nuke completly agree with you Again, deadpoint you grap it at the top of the elliptical curve, where your speed is 0 (ie: just before gravity acceleration brings your speed towards the ground). The advantage is to use less strength/finger strength to grab the hold. It also usually bring your hip closer to the wall and this more weight on your feet.

@@luke_the_nuke I fully agree with you, but I think where’s getting at is the shape the body makes when you hit the hold depending on the deadpoint or dyno. Deadpoints he has the backwards “C”, and dynos he has the “C”. But regardless the way to initialize the two are the same, but when you grab the hold is the main difference.

v2 at my gym

so true, in my climbing gym in germany many very strong experienced climbers tell you that strong climbers climb static while only beginners climb dynamic. this is so dump. in my opinion 90% of movements are way more efficient when executet dynamicli.

Lmao, is this a future climbing copypasta?

@@lawrencetchen I have taken a dark path my friend. Climbing is the complimentary workout for my campus.

Yeah agreed, looks like a C, but into the wall then up.

Gotta find that clickbait KZfaq title and thumbnail

The idea of it, is when you push out a little away from the wall, then pull in and reach (while deadpointing), so your momentum is moving you towards the wall while also towards the hold. It's not a literal C, but I think he uses that to help people understand how to do the beadpoint. Dynoing you can't do the normal C, as you are using your legs to push you are more than likely not holding on to anything at that point, so you're momentum is pushing you away from the wall.

If you break it down, on a dead point you are pushing with your feet while maintaining a hold of the wall with your hands. This creates an arc around the handhold with the radius of your arm. That arc being furthest away from the wall in the middle, and closest at the top and bottom of the swing. Sometimes it might feel more linear, like you are dead pointing straight at a hold, but the more likely occurrence is that you are simply starting from the middle of the arc where your body is the furthest away from the wall and moving into the top of the arc where you end up closer to the wall. So in that case you don't feel like your body moved out and back in.

@@kft4764 sure i could understand that, I think he is saying it this way so a new person can learn it easier, and can develope their form.

He’s got one called “Why you can’t hold body tension”. That’s what you’re looking for. He gives a great explanation as to why your feet can’t stay on in steep terrain and how to work on it

@Raymond Foo look for drop knee to create tension between your feet. Cutting feet for most people that aren't climbing too long and are not that experianced, thus asking such questions, are climbing just with quared hips like you would on a slab. That's the reason. Turn your hips in whenever possible on an overhanging terain, backstep-flag is THE utility move you can use most of the time. If there is a second foothold on the other side of your body somewhere: try to used it for a drop knee. If you are not backstepping (turn from the insid eedge to the outside edge of the shoe to rotate your hips towards the wall) or drop kneeing, or hooking or whatever, you may flag your free foot in front of your body or behind it for balance. This could apply when there are 2 footholds, one higher and one lower and the lower one beeing too low when you reach the target handhold. As a consequence, your body flies out, you need even more strength in four hand and even the other floot may slip. Use the higher foothold and flag to stabilize your body and reach the handhold. Then there won't be any swing and you won't use your foot because there is no swing and your bodyweight presses down on the higher, single foothold instead of beeing devided to two footholds + the body flying out. I hope you know what i mean and that it makes sense to you. Also wah the user Super man said: Watch the video "Why you can’t hold body tension". No matter what you do and what move you make, ALWAYS focus your mental energy to your feet pressing down to the footholds! No matter what your arms are doing. When you loose four feet it's game over (or you just waste huge amounts of energy), so the hands don't matter anyway.

@@philipppuchner1115 I will try to implement more of those techniques, but sometimes there's no possibility of using drop knee (outside edge) etc. Ya, just have to focus on feet a lot!

@@raymondfoo9045 You're right, sometimes you have sh*tty to no feet! Try to dig down as hard as you can with your toes. Also like stretching four leg make your body as long as possible and give it everything to push down your toes like you would push a button into the wall with force, and don't let that button come back up again. Whatever you do, NEVER let go of the button, not even the slightest split of a second! No matter what you do, keep the tension and the pressure at your toes at ALL costs! Lastly, as i watch newer climbers or ones in like rental shoes: Get good shoes with a soft and sticky rubber and size them aproprietly, which means, don't let them be too comfy! Precise shoes with precise toes work better by FAR when you want to apply preaasure at one Point. Also keep the rubber sole of your shoes clean to have the most stickyness. Also don't be too lazy to brush the holds before you climb an indoor boulder, also the FOOTholds, not jus the handholds! Then blow off the loose chalk and rubber which is still there on the hold. I promise you, that DO make a difference, sometimes much more than you think!

it's the standard 40.

Yo 是B站的紫酱黑练么 🧐

@@germanzheng 是呀，这都行哈哈

lol wtf!