Climbing Styles: The Deconstructionist

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3 жыл бұрын

Everyone go check out Tomoa, Akiyo, and Ikedai's KZfaq channel because they have the sickest transitions and offer way better advice than me.
Tomoa is pretty good at climbing so we break that down today. @IFSC I'm still using your footage thx.
"Free Range" by Mona Wonderlick - bit.ly/youtube-monawonderlick
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported - CC BY 3.0
Free download: bit.ly/free-range-download
Paranoia - Prod. Riddiman x oldboyy / prodriddiman

Пікірлер: 61

@middle-agedclimber 3 жыл бұрын

He is so smooth and fluid in his movements that older climbers in comparison look like they are in slo-mo.

@MemoriesAreLost 3 жыл бұрын

0:55 I love how it looks like they're leading the climber out on a leash, hopefully so he doesn't maul the crowd.

@p_booth_fan 3 жыл бұрын

He has a KZfaq channel now as well. Himself, Akiyo Noguchi and Yudai Ikeda (who I think is the Japanese speed coach). Akiyo showed a finger care routine, and Tomoa has given pointers on how he approaches dynos. Maybe not a super high quality in production etc, come across a little cheesy, but it's still entertaining to see his process.

@ascentionism 3 жыл бұрын

Yeah I love their channel! The explosion transitions are amazing and their chemistry is all great. A decent amount of research for this video was just listening to Tomoa talk about his own technique

@p_booth_fan 3 жыл бұрын

@@ascentionism yeah I definitely thought it sounded familiar in some parts 😅 Ondra is top dog, obviously, but I find myself enjoying watching Tomoa more. If I could climb like anyone, it would be him. He's so explosive, he just looks like he's having fun all the time.

@ARandomAmerican2 3 жыл бұрын

@@p_booth_fan What is the name of the youtube channel?

@p_booth_fan 3 жыл бұрын

@@ARandomAmerican2 kzfaq.info/love/x3XxWczzWgm1bLmgdeQJMw 👍🏻

@letterZach 3 жыл бұрын

I beg to differ, their channel is of high quality production. It is in Japanese style of production, unlike the usual international videos.

@alcupone6462 3 жыл бұрын

Tomoa's climbing seems to be different in the way, that he is not viewing the route ground up, but he kind of establishes the positions and then he fills the movements in. This leads to very dynamic movement and is both reason for his creativity and ineffectiveness compared to the more flowy style. Amazing show to watch, thank you for the breakdown.

@ascentionism 3 жыл бұрын

I'm glad you enjoyed it! That's exactly what I was trying to get at -- he just sees where he needs to be and picks the fastest way to get there. It leads to some cool moves, but it can come back to bite him on technical routes or the lead wall

@mediumslicedbaekhyunwithlo2346 3 жыл бұрын

at the last world cup i noticed that he just has so much confidence in his feet. where others were cautious and slipped and fell, tomoa was comfortably doing foot switches. this is probably connected to his sense of balance

@qweasd9153 3 жыл бұрын

tomoa cordination is what amazes me. He can casually do backflips after dynoing into holds. Incredible precision and awareness. Also, his strength and power is world class as well.

@jackungerer1702 3 жыл бұрын

His style is so pleasant to watch

@XTooManyShowsX 3 жыл бұрын

Your videos are always so good and have imparted a lot of great wisdom thats improved my own climbing a lot, keep up the great work!

@ClimbingEasy 3 жыл бұрын

So... I wasn't going to go-to the gym today. Nevermind.

@lucassund8605 3 жыл бұрын

Great video as always, cant wait for the olympic

@JustMeClimbing 11 ай бұрын

this is such a cool series! i love watching it 🔥, even over and over :D.

@SendEdition 3 жыл бұрын

I always enjoy your analysis of the pro climbers, thanks for sharing! And for the record, I thought the Fetal Flaw video was great too - I imagine the negative comments mostly came from ppl who didn’t actually watch the video but I hope you get more positive feedback in this one ;)

@xalingding 3 жыл бұрын

Great video as always. Suggestion would be Dave Macleod, to me he has one of the best understandings of movement in climbing.

@owievisie 3 жыл бұрын

Dope video, I always thought he was all over the place, but your analizing makes a lot of sense

@eduardo_dito 3 жыл бұрын

When I saw UFC at the beginning though youtube was glitching or something, I double checked the video title and the description XD I'm a big fan of UFC too, I compare grappling to the way climbing works in terms of body position, strength/explosiveness and balance, that intro was interesting for me, I'm subscribing ;)

@TocTocTrax 2 жыл бұрын

I really enjoyed watching your amazing video! Thanks for sharing!

@chalk-rock 2 жыл бұрын

These videos are great. I would add Tomoa seems to choose the most fun way to solve boulders, and I think having fun can make a big difference in your success!

@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 3 жыл бұрын

He is very catlike and intuitive.

@joseantoniomagosmartinez5167 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video!

@devratnasari 3 жыл бұрын

Love this

@xTobsecretx 3 жыл бұрын

One major thing you left out is that he has *winged* *scapula,* a condition where you can move your shoulders much more flexibly, to the point where you can flex out your shoulder blades. He demonstrates this in a japanese interview that for some reason I cannot find on youtube anymore (the interviewer jokingly compares his shoulder blades to one of the holds). While it's not the video in question, you can see it pretty clearly here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qbeEfsZ_09SnhH0.html. Idk how his version of winged scapula works, but one of the more common versions basically comes from a malfunctioning nerve that would normally restrict the movement of your shoulder blades beyond a certain point. This might also be one of the reasons he can more comfortably do some of these dynamic mantle moves as well as having a more relaxed position when swinging, because he naturally has more shoulder flexibility.

@zepolcin2412 2 жыл бұрын

Favorite climber

@ChinaTalkMedia 3 жыл бұрын

"Everyone go check out Tomoa, Akiyo, and Ikedai's KZfaq channel because they have the sickest transitions and offer way better advice than me. " link?

@iamlanceharris 3 жыл бұрын

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f9ejga2nl7y2f6c.html

@tobysegar 3 жыл бұрын

Great video. Big inspiration! You spoke a better title at the end there though ;)

@ChinaTalkMedia 3 жыл бұрын

amazing video

@_igormaldonado 2 жыл бұрын

Please do a video about Nale Hukkataival, one of the greatest boulderers for sure!

@bouldersuechtig 3 жыл бұрын

Nice !!!

@joaquinmunoz6946 2 жыл бұрын

Que mejor que meter la victoria de Conor vs Aldo para explicar la precisión y el timing de Tomoa jajaja excelente

@the.Aruarian 3 жыл бұрын

Deconstructionist isn't a made-up word, haha. Or, as much as any word is. Deconstructionism is a pretty nifty concept.

@almasmynbayev 3 жыл бұрын

Does anyone know the model of Tomoa’s climbing shoes?

@mcdoonaldsmanager8706 3 жыл бұрын

Les GOOOO O i love ur videos

@ft4686 2 жыл бұрын

Please assess Alberto Gines Lopez!

@desputnikcommander 3 жыл бұрын

I hope his performance at the oplympics is on point. I enjoy his climbing most of all. Of course Adam is crazy good, but sometimes even he can't do what Tomoa can. Same for women... looks like a real competition... It's not save for Janja anymore.

@miguelgazquez5717 3 жыл бұрын

who do you think can beat janja ?

@desputnikcommander 3 жыл бұрын

@@miguelgazquez5717 I think Natalia Grossman and Niho Nanaka, as well as one or two unknown contenders with a strong day and focus for olympia will eventually win.

@miguelgazquez5717 3 жыл бұрын

@@desputnikcommander I'm not sure that these two can beat janja (well of course they can, but I think they have very little chances.) I don't follow the ifsc for too long, but : if you are talking about miho Nonaka (I don't know of any climber called niho nanaka), she is strong but for example on the meiringen world cup she was way behind janja (in SLC too). About Natalia grossman : she has beaten janja, but on a competition where all the boulder where too easy. She win by only two attempts. So I'm not sure we can draw conclusion on that competition : we can only see that she is strong, but it's hard to compare with janja. On the only competition where they were a really clear separation janja was better. So, if the olympic setting is good, I think it's very likely that janja take gold. I must admit that I don't really know the ranking in speed, so maybe a strong speed climber with a good day can win ?

@desputnikcommander 3 жыл бұрын

@@miguelgazquez5717 you are right with everything. It is just my opinion that It will be very close this time.

@hawkrenato 2 жыл бұрын

Where is the Olympics analysis? :)

@ascentionism 2 жыл бұрын

IOC blocked me from uploading it here but you can check it out on Patreon!

@jp-sn6si 2 жыл бұрын

uh, you pronounce the "J" in jose aldo, he's portugese. conor kept calling him jose (without pronouncing the J) to make fun of him.

@lorenzotelleria4200 3 жыл бұрын

I miss 145 conor, he become a sell of his former self after beating Alvarez and going to boxing

@ascentionism 3 жыл бұрын

UFC 205 Conor had a decent shot against Khabib, change my mind

@lorenzotelleria4200 3 жыл бұрын

@@ascentionism absolutely, the same Conor that beat Mendez and Alvarez would have given khabib a better fight that post Mayweather Conor

@odedtsur3921 3 жыл бұрын

Interesting fact: Tomoa is the one introduced a totally new move in speed climbing, which most of the strong climbers adopted, and also lead to new world record by indonesian climbers.

@ryanmatthews5771 3 жыл бұрын

This got me thinking... Is.... Is Tomoa akin to Sasuke and Adam akin to Naruto?..

@ghost_of_a_dead_poet 3 жыл бұрын

This got me interested, elaborate please o.o

@batsonfilms6225 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Marcus!!! I am wanting to contact you via email regarding your website! Can you provide me with an email to reach you at?

@ascentionism 2 жыл бұрын

hey! I'm too cheap to pay for a private email server so hit me at ascentionism123@gmail.com. Excited to hear from you!

@Xavier-xb7is 3 жыл бұрын

After introducing the video as "The video which will shine a light on the other things that make Narasaki a good climber", you spend 3 minutes From 3:00 to 6:00 (at least) saying things we already know and things we'd totally expect from a video on this climber. The worst is that the tone you used make is sound like you want to make us believe that you're saying something new. This is super frustrating, and it would've been totally fine if you presented the info in the beginning as an established truth. This is conjunction with your thoughts in other videos make me doubt more and more your expertise, I'll probably have a hard time taking you seriously from then on. Anyway keep on making these, you'll get better and maybe I'm wrong.

@joelcremeens3618 3 жыл бұрын

We recently got some Unparallel TN Pros at the gym I work at. I’ve tried to talk about Tomoa to everyone who buys them (maybe 10 people so far) and no one knew who he was. Not one person. Not the V10/5.13c outdoor chick climber or the team kids. I talked to another guy who literally watched all of the bouldering finals at SLC and still didn’t know TN was an Olympic front-runner or that he is a particularly dynamic.

@ascentionism 3 жыл бұрын

My dude I'm a V5 boulderer and I make these videos for $3 per hour, it's really not that deep

@Xavier-xb7is 3 жыл бұрын

@@ascentionism fair enough, all the best