Climbing Styles: The Wizard

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Ascentionism

Ascentionism

2 жыл бұрын

If your climbing friend doesn't hold a fan up to the holds while you're sending, are they really your climbing friend? Discuss.
Dave Graham is pretty dope. This is a video about him being dope.
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Пікірлер: 70
@slopergroper
@slopergroper 2 жыл бұрын
There's an interesting aspect of revival of technique over strength in Graham's climbing. What I mean is that when Sharma popped on the scene, it was not just the fact that he was sending hard projects fast that made him stand out. It was also that his style was totally different to what the dominant Europeans setting the hardest grades were doing. Certainly in sport, it was about keeping your feet on, being static whenever possible, sussing out feet and sequences ... that was the definition of "good world class technique." Even people known for their power, like Fred Nicole or the Hubers, climbed very "technically." Then came Chris Sharma, hucking to holds with his feet cutting, but somehow staying on and progressing upwards. It revolutionized climbing and made everyone rethink good technique. I remember reading an article by a sports physician who analyzed Sharma biomechanics and dynamic movements to understand why what he was doing worked when it went against all conventional wisdom. Dave Graham seems to provide the counterpoint or maybe the next evolutionary step: maybe there was too much emphasis on static technique before Sharma, but maybe the way Chris climbed when he was young pushed things too far in the other direction and Dave Graham is a good reminder that "skinny bastards" climbing in that more classic style can still be right up there. What's beautiful about all of this is that it's not really about one or the other. Rather, each is a evolutionary step forward that is influenced by what came before to unlock a new level of what is possible to keep the rest of us inspired!
@Bemomola
@Bemomola 2 жыл бұрын
Thats a realy good Point. And If you Look at the next Generation of climbers at the top Level you can See the Mix of those different Styles. The are powerful and flexible they are cutting feet If nessecary and keep tension in their Body and move fluent whenever possible
@ascentionism
@ascentionism 2 жыл бұрын
That's a great point! Honestly, bouncing from Wolfgang to Edlinger/Moffat to Sharma to Ondra has probably shown that there's no 'best' style - it really just depends on the climber
@donalddarko3676
@donalddarko3676 2 жыл бұрын
Bottom line is if your struggling to make the next grade you need to improve strength or technique or both. Someone already very technical should perhaps improve strength and vice versa. What most people fail to understand is its strength not muscle mass you need.
@TobyClimbs
@TobyClimbs 2 жыл бұрын
To me it seems he has really strong finger and good endurance and this is the style that fits his strength
@robertnejedly2957
@robertnejedly2957 2 жыл бұрын
…Dave is a technical master. Absolutely. But he’s also Sic strong and has epic endurance. You have to be to climb the routes he’s climbed, no matter how technical you are.
@Lhistoiresansfin-cg2iw
@Lhistoiresansfin-cg2iw 2 жыл бұрын
This video was amazing, it allowed to appreciate Dave Graham's climbing so much more. I would be super auper thankful if you could make more videos on him analyzing his climbing. This was seriously the best video I could have started the year with!!! Thanks a ton
@kockarthur7976
@kockarthur7976 2 жыл бұрын
That’s not Dave Graham climbing Jade, that’s Daniel Woods. That’s the footy from DWoods’s first ascent.
@ascentionism
@ascentionism 2 жыл бұрын
Safe to say I'm embarrassed
@gallanonim6535
@gallanonim6535 2 жыл бұрын
@@ascentionism Sorry to admit, but You should be. AFAIK Graham never climbed Jade. Furthermore, he didn't establish numerous 5.15's as the first one he climbed was Biographie(Realization). He established Coup de Grace at 9a+ but better beta has been found and now it sttled at 9a. So for a Graham fan You seem to distribute a lot od misinformation. Graham is a legend and he is strong, especially in the recent years. You can't climb stuff like Creature or Hypno with only technique. Dave has one of the strongest finger. He climbed Action Directe more than 20 years ago!!! And it's a savage route. Been there, seen it and belayed on it. Don't get me wrong, his technique is on the top level, no doubt about that but in hardcore climbing there's a lot more to it.
@purpQUADd
@purpQUADd 2 жыл бұрын
@@gallanonim6535 key word finger strength lol
@josiahstanton4508
@josiahstanton4508 2 жыл бұрын
Great video!! I grew up in the northeast and Dave Graham was one of the local legends. Super cool to see him get some attention for his masterful climbing technique.
@middle-agedclimber
@middle-agedclimber 2 жыл бұрын
20 years ago it was "are you a fan of Sharma or Dave". I was in Dave's group. A true master of movement with indestructible fingers.
@syindrome
@syindrome 2 жыл бұрын
Good choice; of the two only one is STILL crushing today.
@noahjeffery5670
@noahjeffery5670 2 жыл бұрын
@@syindrome I think sharma just wanted to chill he had kids and seems yo enjoy his life. Dave still has that hunger thats the difference don't really think ones better then the other
@syindrome
@syindrome 2 жыл бұрын
@@noahjeffery5670 Not saying one is better than the other, but only one is still climbing...so yeah.
@devinp4855
@devinp4855 2 жыл бұрын
@@syindrome do you mean only Graham or only Sharma still crushes? I just saw sharma working a 9a on his instagram.
@syindrome
@syindrome 2 жыл бұрын
@@devinp4855 Not trying to disrespect the climbers, but one of them is crushing 8c boulders and attempting Bibliographie while the other is failing at an indoor 9a route...the math is straightforward on who the better climber is.
@bongosock
@bongosock 2 жыл бұрын
Paul Robinson is also another great example of Dave's approach to climbing :)
@dillonpatterson7941
@dillonpatterson7941 2 жыл бұрын
Dave has always been one of my favorite climbers !
@takeiteasy8847
@takeiteasy8847 2 жыл бұрын
A classic example of climbing styles follow body types. Jimmy webb would not be successful with Dave grahams style. I truly believe skinnier climbers have a more beautiful style is because they have less time constraint for each single move so they have more time to reposition the body/feet. That is also the reason why a lot of female climbers have a more aestheticly pleasing style but for heavier climbers it is essential to move fast which means dynamic and less time to reposition per move.
@forsakenearth
@forsakenearth 2 жыл бұрын
lots of climbers have eating disorders. i realise you’re trying to make a more nuanced point than ‘skinnier climbers look more beautiful and better’ but the way in which EDs work tends to simplify things. this is quite unhelpful to read.
@MrPeter1337
@MrPeter1337 2 жыл бұрын
@@forsakenearth Hi didn't say the "skinnier climbers look more beautiful and better" but their climbing-style is more beautiful and explains why
@alejand5
@alejand5 2 жыл бұрын
Dave is not a big guy but he's incredibly strong. It's just a ratio question, relative strength. Also his technique is amazing and he's got steal fingers. So is not that strange that he is on the top level. Love u Dave.
@donalddarko3676
@donalddarko3676 2 жыл бұрын
Agreed for a climber hes very strong. Big burly boulderers are at a disadvantage because of their weight.
@donalddarko3676
@donalddarko3676 2 жыл бұрын
He looks just about as strong to sharma to me. Hes just a bit taller so ges not going to like quite as muscly. Even the "burly" climbers this guys showing arent big they are just skinny and strong. Some of them have nice backs and that gives some the impression they are super big.
@DanKaschel
@DanKaschel Жыл бұрын
@@donalddarko3676 He definitely isn’t. Sharma was a beast. I doubt Ondra is as as strong as Sharma was.
@jlehm
@jlehm 2 жыл бұрын
He didn’t climb 5.14 in his first year. I competed with him and youth comps way back. He had been climbing for a few years before sending 5.14. Not to say he isn’t obviously extremely talented of course.
@SpartaSpartan117
@SpartaSpartan117 2 жыл бұрын
Wikipedia and 8a.nu seem to have him climbing 8b+ in 1997 when he started?
@jlehm
@jlehm 2 жыл бұрын
@@SpartaSpartan117 not sure what you’re alluding to, but I competed with him in a comp in the late 90s when the article came out about him and it said he did 5.14 in his first year of climbing…at that competition, through our conversations, he said he had been climbing for a few years. I’ll take my information straight from the horse’s mouth.
@victorfagundescarvalhomelo7248
@victorfagundescarvalhomelo7248 2 жыл бұрын
The wizard is really strong!!!
@mip5071
@mip5071 2 жыл бұрын
Hey I just got into watching comp climbing and As wondering if you could make a video explaining the rules as it's a lot to take in at once. Thanks!
@joebill663
@joebill663 Жыл бұрын
I topped out a route in rocky mountain national park that he back off on. it was a long time ago. he was impressed lol
@lisbonclimbing
@lisbonclimbing 2 жыл бұрын
great video
@isaacpalatt
@isaacpalatt 2 жыл бұрын
This video does a decent job of showing Graham's incredibly efficient technique; however, one thing really bothered me. There were several instances where we saw Daniel Woods on the first ascent of Jade. DG didn't establish Jade. It was an old project of his when DW established it, and this video showed that FA footage of Daniel multiple times. Like... there are SO many examples of Dave Graham's efficient "wizardry." Why use an incorrect one?
@motyalkalay4124
@motyalkalay4124 2 жыл бұрын
Liked the video, by the way on Jade it is actually Daniel Woods
@ianhunt1327
@ianhunt1327 2 жыл бұрын
am I the only one who isn’t a fan of ali hulk
@cosey2426
@cosey2426 2 жыл бұрын
my dream is to have a video like this made about me someday
@quoikoi
@quoikoi 2 жыл бұрын
This is what climbing is
@SpartaSpartan117
@SpartaSpartan117 2 жыл бұрын
Finally
@ml242
@ml242 2 жыл бұрын
Is that a fan at 5:15?
@donkyuhbuhts540
@donkyuhbuhts540 2 жыл бұрын
I'm glad you made this. I've always liked Graham but I didn't realize he was skinny like. As a skinny bastard myself it gives me motivation to keep getting stronger but stress too much about "Fitting the status quo." In fact that's kinda the reason I like climbing at all come to think of it...
@Aaron-mv4xf
@Aaron-mv4xf 2 жыл бұрын
He may not be the most powerful climber but his fingers are incredibly strong.
@MovementForBJJ
@MovementForBJJ 2 жыл бұрын
👍Good work! Great commentary on this video - I also find that people place too much emphasis on Aesthetics. A lot of strength is determined by the CNS, so don’t judge a book by its cover! I know a lot of dudes who are killers but look like an average or even skinny guy…Sam✌️
@CalderGrantPenevbecauseican
@CalderGrantPenevbecauseican Жыл бұрын
he needs to try silence fr
@findthecomputerroom6
@findthecomputerroom6 2 жыл бұрын
Gives us skinny guys some hope 😂
@marcopervo
@marcopervo 2 жыл бұрын
He may not be burly but he is very strong and able to recruit muscle fibers more efficiently than a climber with more mass. A heavier climber would benefit from his level of technical prowess even more than a skinny one.
@limekrhythm6749
@limekrhythm6749 2 жыл бұрын
I really have problems giving him credit for the Ali Hulk Assent. A dude holding up a Fan almost through the whole climb? He even stands a ladder at one point if I remember correctly. I mean come on. What would you all say if there is a Guy doing this with Ondra, Memos or Schubert? That really seems like aid to me.
@limekrhythm6749
@limekrhythm6749 2 жыл бұрын
@@rochoddo5380 I don't know man. I don't say that the grade drops in any way. Sure you emulate perfect conditions and the rock is the same but I in my opinion it makes the ascent less "pure". At least for me having to deal with the unstable conditions in outdoor climbing is just part of the game. In my head I see someone starting to hang fans on a fixed rope next to the curx sections of a hard sport route. Basically the same thing here. I personally don't want to see that in a video. But that's my opinion maybe I'm just old school.
@limekrhythm6749
@limekrhythm6749 2 жыл бұрын
@@rochoddo5380 Yes I think you're right. It's probably unavoidable that people do that. But I hope that it's not picked up in Rope Climbing by everyone because I really don't want to spend a day at a crag full of fans, drones and bluetooth speakers. I personally have no problem with the kneebars because its a skill you have to learn and even train. It's a new technique like drop knees or flagging. And even with kneepads you still have to do the movement. I do switch indoor and outdoor climbing and never used a fan outside. When I'm in Font and I can't do the move, I have to get stronger or come back when the conditions are better. But that's my take on it. I just think that professional climbers have a kind of responsibility because they influence the way the sport it developing and if they start using fans on rope climbs you gonna see it in places like Siurana and Arco. I do climb mostly in Germany where a lot of climbing areas are in really sensitive nature parks and we already have problems with rangers because the climbing activities are disturbing birds and other animals. Fans will not help and I hope people use them responsible if they use them.
@purpQUADd
@purpQUADd 2 жыл бұрын
Yeah yeah his arms/back are small but his finger strength is out of this world and technique is king but it makes no difference if your finger strength isn’t there to be honest..
@jeanfrancoispoulet8747
@jeanfrancoispoulet8747 2 жыл бұрын
heu #Ascentionism can we have a Angie Eiter video ??
@partykrew666
@partykrew666 2 жыл бұрын
Mind blowing analysis. As a short, weak guy I think this is my way forward... I need to get more creative and technical
@gallanonim6535
@gallanonim6535 2 жыл бұрын
Sure, work on your technique but don't forget what Wolfgang said: "there is no such thing as too much power".
@davidbevis6005
@davidbevis6005 2 жыл бұрын
Do it clean like everyone else does.
@assaqwwq
@assaqwwq 2 жыл бұрын
7:58 flexibility and what now? :D I mean yeah, his body has tons better mobility and flexibility than mine. If I tried his gastons, my shoulder would pop out of its socket. Also, scientifically, the stronger you are, the less prone to injuries you get, so if he wants to protect his sinews, he should do some pullups or something. BTW, Chris Sharma looks fucking cool when he sticks burly moves. just sayin... I really don't think the guy is weaker than I am, and pretty sure his body could do the same moves if he wanted to.
@ascentionism
@ascentionism 2 жыл бұрын
Not trying to take shots at Sharma at all! I'm definitely in the 'throw big moves and try to stick them' camp of climbing myself, and I agree he's a sick climber to watch. I'm mostly going off of what Dave Graham has said about himself here - e.g. if you watch his Flatlanger video, he basically says "climbing with Daniel Woods is useless because you can't use any of his beta". He's stronger than 99.9% of climbers, but probably weaker than most of the other 0.1% who make up the top ; sorry if I didn't make that clear enough!
@driesvanoosten4417
@driesvanoosten4417 2 жыл бұрын
@@ascentionism I love that quote about Daniel Woods!
@assaqwwq
@assaqwwq 2 жыл бұрын
@@ascentionism no worries :D just pointing out the irony of his strength. but also, it's about balance. If him and Alex Megos had a baby... That baby would climb 9c+ all day. At the end of the day, we all climb for ourselves, but it is a bit of a shame that one of the more/most technical climbers out there doesn't like to do a few weighted pullups.
@ascentionism
@ascentionism 2 жыл бұрын
​@@assaqwwq I've said it before and I'll say it again, Alex Megos with good footwork is the scariest climber alive
@gallanonim6535
@gallanonim6535 2 жыл бұрын
@@ascentionism Good joke ;)
@davidbevis6005
@davidbevis6005 2 жыл бұрын
Knee bars. Like that is cheating bro. As many you use on a route? Tapped up rubber. Probably stealth c4.
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