Can y'all weirdos stop commenting how attractive Jain Kim is please it's 2021, we need to stop objectifying women

Never watched a rock climbing video in my life, and suddenly I’m introduced to a world of skill, technique, and artistry. Nice.

She is poetry in motion. =)

Simping for Jain Kim for over 10 minutes? Let's go

I enjoyed watching it and learning more about her career. However, a few things worth noting about the "triangle position". I would argue that all professional lead climbers try to climb efficiently, and based on different strengths and weaknesses (height, weight, body type), climb differently. The triangle position isnt a magical technique that, if other climbers applied it, they would become significantly better. There are plenty of examples in lead competition of climbers of all experience using the "triangle position". Her decisions to smear over back flagging is an interesting point. A smear would give you some height and another point on the wall to push away from. A backflag would keep you equalized until your body starts to move again. Maybe here, we see an example of better technique over attributing her success to the magical triangle. There are many things at play here. An important note is that Kim Jain is 5 feet and 93 pounds. Extremely small and light. She also does NOT compete in bouldering, which means she dedicates herself entirely to specializing in sport climbing. I saw an interesting video comparing her hold/minute pacing to other competition climbers. There are climbers who go faster and slower that her, but her pace seems to be the litmas test for the success other climbers in that competition. Meaning, she seems to be able to find the optimal pace for each route. I also think you meant to touch on her use of momentum, which is an extremely useful tool for short people. But that does not undermine her sheer strength/weight ratio. Again, she is very small and rarely do we see her scrunched up but constantly extended. There are many ways to climb extended problems, but especially with short climbers we see several trends. Firstly, power. Climbing statically is no easy task, and deep pulls/lockoffs at extended angles require lots of energy and tension. Second, use of momentum, efficient use of momentum and deadpoint precision. Third, smearing to maximum efficiency and reach. Fourth, flexibility. In this video you can clearly see just how flexible Jain is. Another trend is squareness to the wall, which requires plenty of physical strength to maintain constant tension throughout the body to ensure deliberate and efficient movement. There are many more, but when I think of Jain, these are some of the features in her climbing that I see. Great video, for future videos however, I think it is worth to consider morphology in climbing style, in which there are very distinct trends, as well as trends in their climbing careers to help explain things. In South Korea, there are very few successful professional climbers, and we are always super proud of Jain and Chongwon!

What stands out to me the most is the static, fluid motion: whenever possible, she keeps three points planted and moves the fourth hand/foot.

I've always enjoyed watching Kim Jain climb. Her movements are so smooth and precise, like a flow. It is weirdly calming.

I think Ai Mori is good idea for this kind of video - what she does is extraordinary. She's super skinny, looks like her bones are gonna break and also looks like she has no strength or power but somehow she can use her lightweight, generate real power and she even beat Nonaka during last Japan Bouldering Cup (YT channel: JMSCA Competition TV, date: 31 january 2021, competition: 16th Japan World Cup finals). She has some great route-learning skills - sees a boulder, tries it, looks like she has no idea what she's doing, takes a thought and then just does it easy... and with each Japan Cup she's getting so much better at it.

Great video! I've only been climbing for little under a year, and I find analysis like this really helpful and useful for my own development. Liked & subscribed!

And THIS is the exact reason I am mad furious about businessmen saying "who wants to watch jain kim for 8 minutes, fucking boring get out of here" and then they reduce the time limit to 6 minutes and pack every single lead route full of dynos.

I loved the video, thanks for this series it really is amazing. I learn so much from these breakdowns, and I can also appreciate their climbing more. Thank you a ton for these, I'm sure they take a ton of work and I'm super thankful for them.

Absolutely agree: her style is the essence of what lead climbing is or should be. Sadly competition climbing has recently moved more and more towards something that favours styles which are more geared towards general audiences: more dynos, faster climbing (e.g. the reduction of time available for World championship lead climbing events), moves that require raw power more than technique.

Honestly such a good video, love the editing style story telling and not to mention the amazing climbing. Great vid

Great analysis! I love her climbing style, so I'll have to try it out when I'm next at the gym.

Great analysis on the use of the triangle. Jain has a lot more going on than her climbing technique. Her mental state is first class, you seldom if ever see her panic or show signs of fatigue during a climb, she will be calm and composed right up to the moment her body lets go and pops off. You're always surprised when she falls off the wall, because you're so used to seeing other climbers give a tell that they are in trouble. This again factors into her efficiency in climbing. Another way she maximises her effciency is her quickdraw flicking. If a draw isn't in the perfect position for clipping, she flicks the draw with her hand or feet, and clips in on the return swing of the draw. This reduces energy waste. Many climbers go out of position when trying to clip, wasting energy in the process

Love herrr!! Never thought about the triangles!!! Definitely gonna implement them !! Great video 🤩

Watching Kim Jain in many ways brought me into rock climbing.

Beautiful movements. Love her style, too

Amazing video as always!

I subbed because you made this awesome video of my favorite climber. Thanks bud!

Has always been inspired by Kim Ja In. thanks for sharing this. especially the great breakdown on the Triangle. Best example picked. Well done mate.

Fascinating, thank you! I know nothing about climbing except that I love to watch it. Any insight into the technique is fantastic. Because at this stage I am sure that all rock climbers have some mystical crystal in their pocket which allows them to defy gravity.

The triangle position is really interesting! It's very different to how I climb, I'll have to try it and see how it goes!

dude, it is like a ritual to me, whenever I feel downed or exhausted I just come and see this video, Idk why I am doing this but you made a spectacular video.

Great analysis about the triangle, learn a lot from it, thx.

Awesome series idea! Subscribed immediately 🤙

I vote for endless breakdowns of her other climbs

Fantastic video. I loved this. Nice work buddy 👍👍

I know nothing about climbing and have never watched it, but I found this video super interesting and it held my interest. So good job

Instructive, thanks. Recognising when it makes sense to smear on the wall, rather than just using the footholds available, is something that doesn't happen until after having already failed on my first attempt (and most likely, I'll fail a few more times trying with just the holds, before widening my vision and trying something different). Fascinating to see that same blind spot popping up among the professionals at ~ 9:50. "If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of Giants." Jain Kim is a 5ft giant.

Fellow Canadian here! Kim Jain is always such a joy and wonder to watch. She's always in control, always so elegant and efficient. The most impressive thing is how she can effortlessly rest on impossible looking holds! I also really enjoy watching Jule Wurm for her deliberate movements (especially her foot work!)

Great video as always, thanks...Sam✌️

As a novice climber I wish someone just yelled at me on my first day like a secret sensei: “make triangles”🔺🔻

That beginning dude I was so confused lol kinda mad til you said this is a rock climbing video xD

Seeing her climb makes my Jaw drop every Time. Even Ice Skaters or Dancers can't compare to the Grace her movement radiates She is by far my favorite rock climber and the biggest Inspiration.

Love your videos ! Thank you

great video! I know nothing about climbing but this was really interesting to watch

Amazing insight and inspiration! Especially for a beginner climber like me! Thanks so much!

kim jain is like the kim yuna of climbing (world champion figure skater known for her technique, precision and artistry)

The most amazing competition climber we've ever seen without a doubt. Her problem solving on the fly, her technique, her strength for power to weight ratio would be phenomenal. She's humble quietly spoken but her climbing speaks for her. I've learnt more watching this amazing beautiful lady than any other climber...yes I've learnt a lot from Ondra but not everyone has his strengths. So to learn as a beginner Kim is the perfect climbing technique absolute finesse. Awesome vid and i completely agree with you.

10:51 ouch! ...and wow! Thank you for the commentary Ascetionism. Very clear also for non-climbers.

Useful analysis, thanks!

Thank you for the technique breakdown! I loved the examples of the triangle position and she is an incredible climber. Keen to practice this on the walls!

Brilliant you explain it so well

as a very short climber, seeing jain on the wall gives me both hope and insight, a better understanding if you will of mouvements. i love climbing for many reasons, i really really do, it scares me how much i love it, and mouvements gotta be one of the reasons. i often imagine that her meticulous execution of technique, micro adjustments, foot swaps that are almost second nature to her climbing in order to find better body positioning/triangle to push off her feet and gain reach, all that smearing- is somewhat a result of her having to find drills like these and practice them over and over again from the beginning of her climbing career. I'm a shit climber, and i don't mean to compare myself to jain kim in any way- but i see that trend in short climbers who have to think harder and apply certain techniques from the start, even on their first juggy beginner route that everyone else just reaches the next hold keeping both their feet secure. It's quite frustrating until you accept that you just need to climb differently, with higher feet, better body positioning, better endurance, and honed problem solving skill. Then rarely, when being tiny is an advantage- (as can be, sometimes) we get to fully, fully savour the joy and privilege. anyway, just thinking that facing all the relative difficulties in climbing due to my height could, may be, mean that i'm getting closer to jain's climbing style than i would've been had i been taller, is a consolation and motivation. That is, if i instead of giving up, find a way to solve the problem even though that means i'll struggle on what some 2 weeks gym climber flashes.

Wonderful video that I learned a lot from. She makes it look effortless.

Damn what a beautiful beast! Just started climbing today!

Great video, interesting comments...just keep it going, you are doing an awesome job with these:)

I think you did an amazing job contextualizing her expertise by using the other sports comparisons. Great narration.

her flexibility is impressive

Gracias! Un video muy interesante y muy distinto a lo que estaba acostumbrado a ver sobre el rubro! Suscrito!

youtube suddenly started recommending all these kim jain videos to me a few months ago and i know nothing about rock climbing but i stan her anywya

Great observation and analysis!

That was great, i have a new appreciation for her after passing over what I thought was a basic style for flashier climbers like Janja.

I just started and it was my instinct to climb dynamically. This video is neat and has inspired me to climb more like Jain, thank you!

Great video! Jain Kim is my favorite climber and I'd love to see more climbers pace and use heel hooks like her :)

Amazing. A true athlete. Energy in the right places at the right time.

Bravo! Thanks a lot!!! Great vid

It's like ballet on the wall. So graceful, strong and precise.

Amazing!!

So much wisdom for life and climbing in this video

This is the first clubbing video I’ve ever seen and I’m so glad it was of this climber!! She’s incredibly impressive!

This woman gets it done.

Kim Jain/Kim Yuna- they are all legends in their own ways

Amazing!

Gonna be trying this triangle thing out when I get back to the gym!

Such a beautiful display of ingenuity

Amazing video and I totally agree. I remember the first time I saw her climb my jaw dropped. She instantly became the climber I most wanted to be able to move like.

Ai Mori is the next Kim Jain: slow, intentional, meticulous, efficient. Great video. Thank you!

Your introduction is great and your video is great too 👍

I keep watching climbing vids to See if I can find stuff to add to my arsenal of moves and techniques. most of the time the things that they describe are things that I subconciously do when climbing as it just feels more stable or more controlled. But this is something that I will defenately try to implement just to see how it feels for me, or if it is something that I already do without really realizing it.

aint even a climber but was super interesting. subbed

Thank you thank you! She is inspirational and the way in which you've broken down the when's how's and why's of her moves is really helpful for this novice climber. Plus, I agree with others. she is poetry in motion for sure.

Kim Ja-in is Such an inspiration for rock climbing and sports in general. I was lucky to meet her and got autograph, picture and talked for a few mins at the ifsc lead World Cup in 2017. For sure she suited the 8 min time limit and longer routes. I wasn’t a fan of the 6 min time limit rule when it came in place. I was in tears watching her last win at Japan in 2019, I think it was Japan or Slovenia she had last win and still holds most gold medals, Janja is close to overtaking Jain but then the pandemic hit in 2020 as everyone knows it effected world sports for a long time and still at the time of writing this comment. Kim Jain is very fluid and methodical climber with great power to weight ratio and endurance like no other human. She is up there with other great humans and athletes like Micheal Phelps, Bruce Lee. Phenomenal sports person and angelic beautiful personality.

I found the triangle analysis very helpful. I'm interested in learning more about this sport from near-zero knowledge. The technical comments below are difficult for me to understand but triangles I can look for when I watch videos.

For those wondering she did not compete at the Olympics due to a finger injury but instead she provided the commentary during the climbing events on KBS

i know nothing about this sport but it was interesting to learn about it :)

would love to see a breakdown of a boulder specialist - maybe Jimmy Web, Daniel Woods or Paul Robinson?

my queen

"every time she steps on the wall, I know just I'm witnessing a masterful display."

My palms are sweaty just by looking at her, really enjoyed watching my first rock climbing video 😂

Ai Mori also seems to experiment with different methods of getting the next hold and form triangles with her legs a lot.

She is so graceful.

Good catch with the triangle. I couldn't put words to it. One minor comment: I don't think she *rests* her other foot against the wall. She engages it as much as is efficient. In the videos you can often see, how she slowly loads the smearing foot a bit more. What's IMO also outstanding about her style, is her perfect timing on deadpoints. Other climbers overshoot, often on purpose to gain time grabbing and loading the hold; she rarely does that.

She's amazing athlete and the best

I could not agree more. First time I saw Kim climb, and each time since, it is instantly clear she is the most graceful and efficient climber I've ever seen.

awesome vid :)

Nice video. I don't pretend to know anything about climbing, but I noticed two things about this climber that is different than others I have seen climb. First impression is that her climbing constantly makes me think of sloths. Methodical and somewhat hypnotic. And second, in all the shots you provided I don't think I saw a single time where she drops an arm and shakes it out. Frequent arm shake seems to be de rigueur with the other climbers I have watched. To me she channels the forms taught in karate or tail chi rather than being a display of raw athleticism.

She is my idol!!!

shes the best!

Interesting ! 🙂

She is a gift!

great

I've been watching a rock climbing youtuber named Magnus Midtbo. If you could do a breakdown on his powerful, upper-arm-focused, I would be thrilled to watch it!

verry cool

The triangle is described from the lead hand, and not the head. The lead hand is the fulcrum and the legs should be placed on either side lateral location of the handhold.

i just started learning how to climb, and it was a little disheartening to realize that i was the shortest person in my class...but seeing kim jain do all these amazing things at 5'0 (same height as me!) makes me feel incredible :D here's hoping smearing becomes less scary over time, ahah...

I am far... far far (very far) away to be a pro or even an expert climber. But the triangle position was given me as the "base" of climbing. I thought that everyone would know it from the very beginning and I was also told that i have to keep in mind to come back to the triangle as soon as I can...

I'm not a rock climber and I've only been to a rock gym 4 times my whole life. The control is insane

2009 vibe voice over