Props for not counting speed as a discipline. Savage.

I'm excited to see more Janja vs. Natalia, I think we might finally see some competition for first place in the comps :)

A Janja move that doesn't get shown enough is her finish of Boulder 2 in Munich 2017. Still the most OMG moment I've seen from her. Never gets old. "How the hell stuck onto that, nobody will ever know."

I think what also makes her so good is that she just looks like she is having fun! She doesn't seem stressed or tense, she just loves what she does and loves the challenge and thrill of climbing. That what I think makes her the best!

Good Video! I would like to add one more point to this topic. I think one of the most underrated physical attributes of Janja is her insane shoulder mobility and strength in weird shoulder positions. A lot of climbers have bad shoulder mobility due to the nature of the lattisimus muscle which gets trained a lot during climbing. The lattisimus has its insertion point in the upper arm. Because of that, a highly trained lattismus can cause problems for posture and shoulder mobility if the antagonistic muscles are not trained properly. I definitely think that pro climbers focus on the antagonistic parts aswell and work on their shoulder mobility. However, I think that Janja buts an exceptionally high amount of effort and time in this aspect. Because of that, she is able to push her body closer to the wall even in a position where she cuts loose with both feeds. Just look at her shoulder position at 3:42 and 5:27 and how she is able to push her chest forwards and manages to negate some momentum because of that. I have never seen another competitor executing moves with similar shoulder positioning. Just a thaught of mine, would be interesting to see what other people think about this topic

Agreed! Janja is SO good at committing in her attempts. Watching her climb is always mind-blowing and inspiring. Great video!

Janja has perfected the technique I would call: Just hold on She throws all these crazy and wild jumps and coordination moves and on the last hold she swings around and should fall off but it is like she just refuses to let her hands slip.

One aspect you did not cover that I believe is so key to her climbing style is her ability to initiate momentum from her hips and knees. Most climbers most 'press with their feet' and then throw their hands. If you look at her initiating a big move, you can see her center of gravity shifting before her extremities. This gives her a very dynamic style with ther CoG shifting wildly. This is a type of dynamic climbing that's unlike 'jumpy' dynamic climbing. When most climbers have learnt to always maintain their balance she knows when that's not needed.

Brilliant content mate! A video on Dave "the wizard" Graham would be sick Cheers

I really enjoy your commentary and analysis. Keep up the great work!

Your analyses are just insanely good! Keep up the awesome work

Your script was beautifully written thank you for the video it made me cry a bit :')

Man, I've just discovered a gem of a channel! Subscribed!

In sport psychology what you call "commitment" is refered as "self-efficacy" :)

Dude keep up the hard work and the insane quality! Only a matter of time before you explode :))

Great analysis of a great climber. Thanks for the upload.

Janja needs to go outdoor and compete/commit to the rock. I would love to see those epic battles

Great video as always!

I was looking forward to this one

Love this vid about Janja who is an astonishing climber. I did take issue with your illustration of climbers who are good at bouldering but not necessarily good at lead. You showed Tomoa Narasaki falling off a lead climb. He's an incredibly powerful lead climber and took the combined IFSC world championship title in 2019 in Hachioji. Aside from that, though, I really enjoyed how you analyzed how Janja uses her body intelligently.

A small slip up, but at 1:53 you mention "31 gold medals" instead of the 18 mentioned on the table unless I'm misinterpreting it. Aside from that, really enjoyable video!

thanks so much for this. a video on miho, and also the barefoot french climber would be amazing

Janja is also humble, which is also a big plus, as hubris is an enemy of greatness

You left out her joy. She radiates happiness on the wall. Nobody else has that. Well, maybe Oriane and Brooke but not as clearly. She's fun to watch.

Daniel Woods, Seb Bouin , Margo Hayes, Ashima...those might be interesting to hear about.

She's a frikin machine!

G.O.A.T.

For next time Miho Nonaka!

"A phenomenal phenom, gifted from, phenomenal phenomena." ~ Gaia & Galaxy "Janja is a gift, of something within, and of something beyond." "Beauty is the summit.. of all things mighty, mysterious, and magnificent." ~ Paul Jung

For me it’s her practice that makes her the best. Her practice boulders are harder than the World Cup boulders. That and her mental toughness.

Next up should be a video on David Lama, in my eyes the best climber of all time. What he did in the big mountains is just remarkable, winning a piolet d'or. And he beat a young Adam Ondra on the comp scene as well.

For me, Janja was the highlight of the olympics accross all sports. She's a beast, and exudes raw power in every climb. What a competitor!

Can you do jimmy webb??

"I think Janja's talent is an exuberant joy and an adventurous spirit. And it comes from the tenets of family, community and country -- graced by God's gifts."

The idea that the confidence stems from the combination of incredible strength and incredible coordination is very interesting, never thought of it that way. But it make sense... "Janja always expect to stick the move" is very true.

The apex player of the competition game. One in 8 billion.

I love Ganja! Oh

she is one

How many times can you repeat "janja is so much stronger than everyone else"

I'm curious for how long she'll be able to maintain this level of dominance. Could she win another olympic gold? Or 2? 3?

de loin la meilleure tout sexes confondus ; she is the goat !!!

Janja is the Messi of climbing, she is the Michael Jordan of climbing, she is the Bruce Lee of climbing. You get my point...

Great video. Should have learned to say her name right tho...

Will trans climbers eclipse bio women like they have in swimming, track, wrestling and weightlifting? Will revisionists wipe clean Janja's legacy from the history books?