If you actually limited the speed to 2mm3/sec then the question is did it become stronger due to the increased layer width or the slower print speed. at 100% - .4 layer width 1mm of extruded material contains .4 * .16 = .064mm3 material so 2/.064 = 31.25 so that was printed at 31.25 mm/sec whereas the 250 * was printed at about 12.5mm/sec so the question is does the slower speed or increased layer width make a difference. Also from my experience the protocol would be to properly tune in each setting. So i would suggest this procedure 1.) establish max extrusion rate for your material and machine like indicated here grabcad.com/tutorials/dialing-in-a-filament-and-specifying-the-max-volumetric-e-xtrusion-value 2.) maybe deduct 20% to allow for the wide range of pressure difference At this time lets assume you use PLA and 1.) established 13 mm3/sec deduct 20 % gives about 10 (lets use ten math is probably easier 3.) calc minimum speed of test which would be at 250 % which would be 10/.16 = 62.5 so 60mm/sec would be a good speed with a .4 nozzle. So in Prusa slicer the max speed and max volumetric E could be set to 60mm/sec and 10mm3/sec. With that the nozzle move speed will be constant as per my research (calling filament manufacturers) the print speed at which the nozzle moves makes a difference 4.) Dial in each extrusion width to establish a proper extrusion multiplier. to achieve similar (very close) component thickness the extrusion multiplier can vary as much as .1 (i.e .95 to 1.05) especially at the extremes. to do that I would print in your case a 1, 1,5, 2 and 3mm wall. here is a link to a print that might be useful grabcad.com/library/frc1989-filament-dial-in-1/details?folder_id=7076739 This particular one has a 1mm. 1.25mm 1.5mm 2mm and 3mm wall. Unless you are using linear advance measure close to the middle with a caliper. This also might teach you a thing or 2 about your slicer as you can also check for horizontal layer adhesion (tip print it with .96mm layer and you can peal the 2mm wall into 2) Then print a flat block at least 20x20 in size to inspect the surface you do not want the extrusion multiplier that high that you get a "rough ride" = have a wavy surface. Interesting different materials on the same setup in different conditions can require an extrusion multiplier as low as .9 and as high as 1.1 Now you can run your tests and should get good data on the influence of layer adhesion Then you can re-run the test at 40, 20, 10mm/sec as max speed to see the difference the speed makes. My testing rig are my hands with which I break test pieces so not that accurate. But it seems between layer width speed plays a role too. Now i don't think it makes that much difference with a .4 nozzle but with a .8 it is much more noticable and to get good prints I usually use 110-125% for outside perimeter and 150-225 for the inside perimeters with a layer height of .4 (50%) as with a .8 a print with .4mm layer height will finish in the same time as one with a .2 due to the limiting factor being the max Volumetric E which for HIPS is about 18 mm3/sec the material we print most often and with above procedure you get not only prints strong enough but also accurate enough - look at this test www.chiefdelphi.com/t/rack2020-test-with-updated-video/363607 That is all printed with a .8 all the yellow parts on an anycubic chiron you have 10 gears meshing and another 8 with 2 double. the bearings are also 3DP but on a prusa clone out of Nylon also with a .8 nozzle. You are looking at about 3kg of hips and 1/2kg of nylon in this video as everything is printed solid that means enough perimeters (6-16 depending on the part) to make everything a solid piece of plastic. Layer width for .88 to 1.6 on those prints. Looking fwd to a message as to what exactly was tested a mixture of print speed and layer width or one or the other. Would like to see all of these tested so I stay tuned and a patron

LoganDark yeah we should always get these quality videos for free forever right!? Sooo weird he asks for a bit of money to do all this, but you’re right I’ll be unsubscribing to miss all the info he has just to avoid an ad. ;)

@@LoganDark4357 Have you any idea how much work goes into that - not to speak about the filaments and printer(s) etc. Just curious - how much have you contributed to his channel?

@@martinpirringer8055 Which is fine, but no need to "beg". If people feel like sharing, they will.

@@martinpirringer8055 I was told that most infills are good enough but they key to strength is a higher setting for infill and three shells minimum

True!!!

I keep coming back to this series everytime I have a problem, like now when I'm trying 0.5 line width to make design of parts easier 😉

I've been watching these over and over and learning loads. My first gear fix for a mixer worked right off the bat because of these videos. Nice to see a scientific analysis of the 3d printing tech.

re-watching right now

A year after I first saw this vid, here I am again...

thanks

Is there a video like that? Or not yet?

I was thinking the same then put it up against the most standard print settings

Maybe he can add small dips or ridges that hold/center the hooks in place on the part.

so, molds.

@@kirbo1619 Yeah, I'd just make it out of Epoxy. Bonus for carefully mixing in some 13mm chopped glass fibre. Just don't breathe the fibres nor leave them around nor sand/cut parts with glass/carbon fibres in them. They're an arse to work with.

This is GENIUS!!! I am SO glad KZfaq exists!!! I never would've thought about filling the inside with epoxy. I actually have epoxy for the outside of some of my models though on the outside it's not for strength it's more for the finish of the product but there are some things that I make that could definitely benefit by having a boxy resin fill the inside rather than in the build

@@sub-sonicwavescaraudio1814 oh heck, I'm also thinking of using this for better transparent parts by using a clear epoxy resin.

@@forivall That is also a great idea!! I enjoy your analytical approach to problem and solution the information always useful and helpful. I have learned quite a bit from watching your content and I am definitely thankful for all your videos and teachings!!!!

Rushmere3D I think that’s a 250% extrusion width

Looks like a materal for another video

Great explanation

So what should be the initial layer line width in such a case?

If this is something you're going to share out please keep me in mind!

120% (.48) is the stock setting in Simplified3D

Gerne!

U da goat in tha hood

Glad to hear it!

Hi Garrett, please have a look at my recent publication systematically varying width and height for five different values. I hope it'll be interesting for you if you like this video. www.researchgate.net/publication/341289167_Interlayer_bonding_has_bulk-material_strength_in_extrusion_additive_manufacturing_new_understanding_of_anisotropy

thanks for the tip, I've noticed prusaslicer (I used superslicer but same thing) sets 0.45mm by default but never bothered changing it. I'll have to try that

Did this for vase mode lightsaber parts, resulted in a much stronger "blade".

Simplify3d do this since version 4.0