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Centaur pp 😮

hehehe Centaur pp

And he sucked on it, too

PP,PE and PET are mass products already and 10-40x cheaper than pla, but you need companies to form it into Filament and then you need buyers. Booth things which depend on each other , a chicken-egg problem :D

@@hyperhektor7733 Yes. I'm aware of the widespread adoption of PP, PE and PET. Although PET is fairly widely available in filament form, as you point out, with increased demand other polymers could, hopefully, become more available as such.

It's a specialized material that's primarily useful for practical prints and isn't exactly cheap. The average person isn't going to be making anything that needs that kind of strength and thus can't justify the costs.

PP is about the cheapest raw material is to buy. I was a materials manager in a plastic manufacturer for years. Part of my job was negotiating contracts with suppliers. I was buying high performance PP for around 68 cents per pound. That was after the price of oil went through the roof (PP price is directly tied to the price of oil). Before that I was paying well under 50 cents per pound. If you get into the cheaper PP material, for example T20P100, which is 20 percent talc filled, the price goes down significantly. Which basically means they throw dirt in the material to make it last longer, lol. In comparison, the ABS material we used was of a VERY low cost provider. That material was 1.40 per pound if I bought full truckloads. I can't speak for 3d printing yet, but in injection molding this was about the easiest material to process. You can crank out millions of parts with this stuff and not even show wear on the tooling. The bad part, in the automotive world at least, was that it couldn't be used for much. The vast majority of the material was nylon 6 or nylon 66, which varied between 2.25 and 2.75 per pound most of the time. And with the fillers needed became extremely abrasive, most commonly glass filled. I'm just starting to get into 3d printing. If I decide to start using PP, I'm going to pick up a filament extruder and make my own since I can get it from the last place I worked. Even if I pay twice what they're getting it for I'll still be way under 2.00 a pound and I know where the material is sources and the specific specifications it has to meet. The more I think about it, I might talk to my friend that bought the place I was working and see if it's viable to start producing filament.

If you are really interested in the actual raw materials, matweb and ul prospector are great resources. Here's an example. www.matweb.com/search/datasheettext.aspx?matguid=a0f26e2f748a479a81cc98276e25e316

Cok

Yo 100th like

You have to low nozzle temperature

Prob cause you like a good centaur pp

0imp

oh no. i get that reference.

Why

God just thinking bout that centaur pp makes my pp so hard

@@edwinng4610 pl p

@@gamer2morrow ppppppp pm p lp p

loooool pee-pee

Pro Patria?

I just thought it was funny that he has his mouth on the pp in the thumbnail lmao

At 100-120C the parts get mostly back into shape again and this is the point I wanted to make. I think they should totally survive a hot car (at least "hot" in German standards).

Does it separate from the tape or does does the tape fuse to the print permanently?

Most of the time you can release the part from the tape which leaves a really nice, shiny surface. Only in some rare cases did the tape stick to the part permanently.

Hehe u said pp

"PP tape"

You mean hydrophobic?

Simone | FNTSMN big fan of peepee eh

@@void1719 i can't help but giggle

"Big lover of PP"

Thas gey bro

pp will and always will stand for pussŷ. Power.all e omen have one and really know t her power it holds Others that don't pity pity little kitty let's face it sex sells that hoepolyyi=sthsnecc'cccccccc' u sed the name?

Really great work you did in your video!

What bed temp did you use? The manufacturer recommends 110C for the first layer and 30C for the second and subsequent layers. Don't know how I could achieve that.

I used the 110C initial layer and I think 40C subsequent layers. I managed it with an Ender 3, it took about 20 mins to heat up and I was using a polythene sheet as an enclosure. If your printer is struggling you could try covering the bed with a sheet of cardboard until it reaches temperature.

If you use packing tape on your bed 50 or 60C is okay, even for the first layer.

Thanks - I'll give top insulation a go. I'll also add a significant brim as the corners were lifting. What I didn't understand was the logic behind lowering the temperature after the first layer as, because of the thermal mass of the bed, the temperature is still going to be well above 30C when the second layer prints.

you wanna try the pp

If you wanted to remove the fiberglass from the inside mold it might come in very handy that it doesn't adhere well to other materials.

You can get raw pp quite cheap if you know which bars to look for.

I am looking at doing this in the near future. Create an outer shell of PP around the actual shape made with cheaper filament.

Most bottle caps are made of polypropylene though.

You mean milk jugs and their caps

Wh... What?!

Scott Tuttle same happens with my PP

I have a problem with big PETG parts warping. I tried different filament manufacturers, adhesive I'm using is good for petg (PVP on glass), and bed temperature is reduced to 60° which is significantly lower than recommended for PETG 75-80°. Actual bed temperature is also a bit lower. But big parts are still warping. What am i doing wrong?

@@horus3577 how big is the part and how is the chamber temp control

I actually tested that at the beginning of this year. Check out my older videos (PP) unfortunately not yet included.

The thing is that the PP is quite slippery so maybe not the best choice for shoes 😉

@@CNCKitchen could be a very funny pair of shoes then :))

I think PP has been used for the uppers in 3d printed shoes successfully. You will need urethane for the bottoms though.

NS Gaming PoRNxNxxcom

That's a good way to severely damage printing surface

I'd say food grade stuff, PP is a great material for food. Can make boxes, bowls, cups etc and can be made really rigid to stop the flexing and bending. Never really seen it used in 3d printing, and I work with injection moulding which is an extremely fast way to make things and comes out almost perfect each time with the right amount of cooling and temperation of the material.

@@ConnorEtch It also has great chemical resistance and can withstand being autoclaved, which makes it good for lab equipment.

😂

PP

Do you work for the BBC?

@@alohathaxted I don't, but BBC is by far my favorite! They just have that quality, thick amount of entertainment you can't find anywhere else!

LOL no.