Glad it was helpful! Let us know how else we can help you!

Be sure to pick it up from our website! www.edgeautosport.com

22psi? Fuck that's fairly high.

@@Smerdzy dangerously high lol

You screwed yourself

Best money you’ll ever spend bro.👍

Thanks! If you're interested in any other parts or tuning, let us know! We'd love to help.

Thanks for subscribing!

Bruh your pro pic tripped me out, I thought I commented for a second

Unless you're performing specific logs or looking for something specific while driving, I usually monitor AFRs, Boost, Feedback Knock, Fine Knock Learn, DAM, AFR Learning, and AFR Correction. Some of those names might be a tiny bit off. I didn't look at them to respond to this. If you don't know what any of those are, I suggest looking at Cobb's extensive help files to understand them. But all those values are very relevant to what's happening in your car. The AFR's on any EJ are sort of subjective because it doesn't have a sensor that reads AFRs accurately at WOT so every time you go WOT it's just going to show a single lower value no matter what and it's not reflective of what your actual AFR is. That's when an AFR gauge can be helpful or a dyno tune that uses a wideband AFR sensor.

Glad it was helpful!

@@EdgeAutosport sure does , blessings

I went fast once.

.-.

Yea right

😑

Like I know I can change the tune to fit my current location but what would happen if you use a different octane for a tune that’s not meant for that?

There are OTS maps for 2 different octanes, 91 and 93. Being in UT, you'll most likely use the 91 since that's probably the best gas you have. If you go to a different state that has 93, you can switch to the 93 map, no problem. At the end of the day, it's generally okay to use a 91 map with 93 gas, but not a 93 map with 91 gas. You always want to use a gas that matches or is higher than the map you are currently on.

Good question.

It's all subjective, but like he said, boost is a good one. I also prefer oil temp and pressure because your stock dash only shows radiator temps. It's a nice gauge to have.

did you get it

Hell no.

Duh yeah!

Not unless you download an economy tune

If you stick to COBB OTS maps and the parts they call out, you simply load a new map from their site - if you are planning to mod past OTS maps or want a better tune, you will buy a protune and the tuner will make a map for you and then load it on.

It depends on the year and make of the car, but generally the Stage 2 map requires an intercooler and intake upgrade.

@@EdgeAutosport thank you so much for taking the time to reply! I have a 2011 Sti, and i want to combine an intake and downpipe, however i have heard that you cannot run the 2 of them, since the fuel system wont handle it, but does cobb accesport v3 003 has a map for this 2? Like stage 2 +? Anyways, thank you again! For your time! Great video! Have a great day!

Thanks for following the channel - We will probably circle back around soon!

No, you do not have to keep it plugged in. Yes, it's a great mod even without any other hard parts on the car!

It doesn't. But our gas uses RON+MON/2 method so whatever that translates into at your pump, just use the closest thing to it without using a map that's higher than the map suggests.

Did you find a solution?

U should be good!

That's correct. An exhaust and air filter would not require a custom tune, but you can still benefit from one!

The tunes are installed on the device already. If there are more up-to-date versions, you can download them for free on Cobb's website.

Unless you followed a COBB OTS map for a specific aftermarket turbo, you should be getting a custom tune for it. When in doubt, reference the COBB tuning website, but it sounds like you definitely need a custom tune. If you didn't swap your ECU, I would imagine the last flashed map is still present.

It depends on the octane rating method used at your local gas pumps. In the USA, we typically use the average of RON and MON. I think much of the world uses the RON method. So as long as you know the method, you'll know what map to use. This is from Cobb's site. Maps designated with "93" are for use with 93 octane fuel (98 RON) or better. Maps designated with "91" are for use with 91 octane fuel(95 RON) or better. So it looks like you'll be using 98 or 95. I would highly recommend using the highest octane fuel you have available to you and using a map that that does not go higher than that. You can definitely drive the car without the AccessPort plugged in. It will still have the map on it. Once you unmarry it though, you must remove all flashed maps and return it to stock.

Yes, when you first install it it backs up your original ecu image. When you uninstall it, it writes that image back on. It's best to uninstall it 2-3 days before bringing it in to a dealer, so the ecu can relearn values like fuel trim, ignition timing, wastegate duty cycles. If you uninstall it and drive right to the dealer they could see (if they really wanted to) many of the values are not yet learned and may suspect it was tuned.

you want to be looking at the stage 2+ possibly

Any tune you currently have on the car will be written over if you flash this. That map will be gone. You will need to get another custom tune using this device if you do need a custom tune.

Stage 1

Probably not with just an intake and exhaust. But with the intake, Subaru's are sensitive to changes so that's why running a tuned map for whatever intake you have is ideal.

Stage 0 is a stock tune or when you uninstall, it flashes back to stock.

The AccessPort comes with upgraded tunes. A custom tune is over and above that and is for dialing your specific setup further. In some cases, it's necessary depending on your setup. We have AccessPorts in stock and can ship out right away.

Stage 1 with the fuel octane rating in your area.

Why not

If you add parts that one of the OTS maps is made for, you can flash a different OTS map. If your mods exceed what the OTS maps are designed for, then we suggest getting a custom tune.

I have about 12 to 14k worth of performance (aftermarket) parts in my 2011 WRX hatchback. Not sure where your located but my dyno tune for my car is $500 by AWD Tuning in Plano, Texas aka right next to Dallas, Texas. I'm going to be trading in my v2 for a v3 to get the 50% back deal going on currently. Since I'm on a stock Subaru (EJ) block & don't want to have to go with an STi aka 6 gear transmission being that after 350awhp. In a WRX non STi the STi transmission is needed or you will blow the transmission 😉 Also the stock block can only hold up too 400awhp before you'll blow your stock block. I'm going to shoot for 320 to 325awhp, safe tune, on my dyno tune here soon even though I could go higher 😁

Why does it cost you 1000-1250$ for a tune!!??? 500-850$ is normal

Yeah my tunes cost me 1000 each but I'm in Australia

Yes, you could do that.

It will void your warranty, I just bought a wrx and they told me it would if i were to get one.

Bummer!

Huh?

@@EdgeAutosport saying these are overrated piles of garbage that require more work than its worth.

😂 😂😂 that hurt me more than it did the car I hate it when people do that

The car had been idling for a few before the video and it was about 85 degrees in the garage at the time. Without load on the motor, there is no harm being done to the motor in this situation.

@@EdgeAutosport the only time revving does no harm is when the engine oil is to proper temp. Cold oil doesn't flow as well as warmed oil... this is critical is boxer engines(especially the 2.5 in this car). So yea, don't rev a cold engine... the few minutes you ran it before video and your ambient temp, are not a proper "warm up" temp. Again especially for the frail ringland situation with the 2.5. (Subaru could have easily fixed this ringland issue one of 2 ways.... strengthen piston's ringland areas, preferred to keep the EPA ratings they needed... or.. widen ring gap and allow for expansion knowing people would mod the engines. Either under modding would have helped the curse. Also a flat type engine does not flow cold oil as well, again, don't rev needlessly when cold, while it's a very linear design. It still has some problematic torque thrust issues out of boost, which is where most screw their engines. (Lugging) The Subaru EJ can be very reliable at quite decent power, but needs proper maintenance and checking (EJ's lose oil.... just like a rotary.... not as much oil but enough to cause issues. ) simply put, keep eye on oil, keep oil and TINY FILTER CHANGED..... when tiny filter can't filter enough it goes into bypass to maintain oil pressure. Bypass means no filtering of your nasty turbo cooked oil..... which means if anything else goes wrong.... it all gets a dose of the issue..... shit.... sorry.... I'm ranting...2005 WRX owner... bought the car and had to immediately pull and rebuild engine. (Top side.. head gasket issue). Anyway.... first WRX was a 2009.... so I have experience with the 2.0 and 2.5, and yes, I rebuilt the current engine myself, not a shop.... over 8k miles so far and a few moments over 22 psi boost. I'm doing tuning for first time so had a few over boost moments lol. About to put 1100cc injectors from a friend's wrecked 2008 and his VF52 he had on it. I already installed several other parts from his car. And if anyone reads this through, I'm running a 2.0 EJ208, they were in JDM twin turbo legacy's, maybe other countries got them. (We didn't) It's obviously single turbo set in my car as the steering system won't allow the twin set up to fit.

Edge Autosport yeah I always let my wrx idle for a few minutes before I giver the tits

Matt Calise 😂😂😂

No, they've only created maps around Cobb parts. However, they work for many other parts. Intake systems will create the greatest variation from the Cobb map but a custom tune can make it run correctly. If you're only planning on using a Cobb preloaded map, I suggest using the Cobb intake. All other parts like a catted downpipe are fine to get different versions of. It has up to 93 octane maps which are fine to use with 94 octane using the RON+MON/2 method which is used in Canada I believe.

thank you

Check your oil levels. (And all fluid levels, for that matter). Could be something as simple as very low oil.

The Accessport supports turbo motors only... sorry! A standalone ECU could be installed and tuned though, perhaps.

@@EdgeAutosport Thank you.

Flip a coin and go for it!!!!

Did it blew up already idi.t?

It can be uninstalled and returned to the stock calibration whenever you please

Yes, but only USDM versions.

It was about 90 degrees in that garage at the time and I had started it a few minutes earlier.

The temp guage wasn't in the Max cold, you can see it was pre warmed just not at full running temp. Reving the engine cold is bad but slighter warm not under boost won't hurt anything!

I believe it's only for US and Australian markets at the current time. It would void certain parts of the warranty, yes.

shlomi dayan i think you unplug it when you leave the car . And then you plug it back in before you start it again with no problem

The 2002 WRX is a supported model. I'm not sure what market cars you receive in your country but if it's a USDM car, the AP would work. I'm not sure if that's the model you receive or not so I cannot guarantee that.