Glad you like it! And you'll probably like the Colichemarde too. You can get a long multi-strap frog to hang the rapier from. I've heard many ways to measure the "right" size rapier for you but one I go with is with tip on the ground, standing up straight, the cross guard should be about navel height. Another is to hold the sword horizontally across the chest with the guard near your right armpit, left arm extended like you're drawing a bow, the tip should be just past your left fingertips (the shorter backsword/broadsword/sidesword will have the tip reach just past your wrist or to the web between thumb and forefinger--the Colichemarde is in this shorter size range). Some fencers like their rapiers a lot longer, blades around 45", but I prefer this length, being used to shorter swords in general and being 5'7". Also, be prepared: The Colichemarde is much lighter, with a smaller grip designed for a smallsword "pinch" hold, though the CS version has rings big enough to finger the guard. Let me know when you get the Colichemarde!

​@@michaelrizzo5523you were right! Ordered and got my sword frog today and I put the cavalier rapier on it with a belt. I CAN actually unsheath it without feeling like I'm going to pull a muscle now! Ended up getting a bad example of the colichemarde but I have another one coming in tomorrow. 😭 Damnit I'm gonna have a dilemma of picking between the two. Thanks again!

Thank you! And let me know how it goes with the Murasame.

I have a few cold steel swords and honestly it's kind of a hit and miss with quality. All of them are tough as nails I have beaten them pretty good with tests lol but fit and finish doesn't seem to be cold steel strengths. The balance isn't really the best with all of them but not as bad as some people online say. I don't have the rapier though that's why I'm here. The cold steel Italian longsword is a bit more blade heavy than other more expensive longswords I have, but I honestly think it's stronger because of it, very hefty blade on there. All in all I think cold steel is great for beater swords if you want to have some fun for the price. Better than any other swords I have gotten for around that price range.

Thanks!

@@michaelrizzo5523 welcome

Let me know what you think of yours. I still enjoy training with mine.

@@michaelrizzo5523 will do! I'm entirely unfamiliar with fencing, but figured it was time to have one of these styles of sword regardless. That it's almost a cross between a smallsword and rapier is quite appealing, and depending on how it feels out of box I may just shorten it into basically a smallsword with an overbuilt hilt. We'll see 🙂

I've been using one in some of my penetration tests. Yes, very useful!

If you go with the older Bolognese school (Manciolino, Marozzo) the postures aren't so extreme but were more intended for sidesword, like Meyer. Agrippa also isn't too extreme posture-wise. If you read the descriptions in Capoferro, Giganti, Alfieri and the like, it seems like their illustrations may have been a touch over-exaggerated to give a sense of dynamic action (like superhero poses in comics), though Capoferro was all about the extreme geometry. Don't contort or extend yourself so far you can't move, in other words. As for the rapier, this is a really nice one, very easy handling, but might be too short for that style?

I really do like it, and recommend it assuming you don't want a rapier that can cut. Thrusting and handling is excellent, build has remained solid.

@@michaelrizzo5523 i dont fence, but i have been wanting a weapons display on my office wall inspired by old castles, and this rapier will make a great addition

@@bigfrankfraser1391 It feels mighty good in the hand, though. Our collections do beckon to be handled.

@@michaelrizzo5523 true, but im not really that good with sword because of my height, being 7'2" isnt fun in a lot of ways, so i tend to collect the things i enjoy but cant actually do, fencing is one of those

Yes, the Cav can be easily converted for fencing, though may be a bit too stiff in the thrust for safety. I would also highly recommend the Hanwei Practical Rapiers, as they are specifically for HEMA fencing, are very sturdy, and have replaceable blades. They run about $200 USD with $100 replacement blades, if you can find them. I featured one in my Sidesword Build video.

It's threaded, so you might be able to find a blade for it.

It's not stainless. It's magnetic and the patina has changed over time.

@@michaelrizzo5523 Thank you Mr Rizzo!!!

That actually makes a lot of sense! And, hey, it's a nice sword, worth owning.

@@michaelrizzo5523 my uncle used to teach polish actors sword fighting for historical films in the 80's and 90's

@@kevinmorrice Awesome!

ive read that somewhere before, and now i have a reliable source to confirm it, thats so fun, using sabre style to look more dramatic, thats actually genius

@@michaelrizzo5523 rewatching this now, i realise that back then i wasnt to keen on getting it because it was a bit shorter than i was used to, but after handling some shorter rapiers ive come to prefer the shorter blade, ive a gammy wrist so my movements can be a bit stiff and i find that as ive gotten much cleaner wrist movements with the shorter blades than the longer ones, its a subtle difference, but noticeable enough to me

Stiffest for thrusting, yes. Not floppy. The Musketeer has the best edge, but it's pretty flexible. The Christus is somewhere in between. Haven't tried anything more expensive like Arms & Armor yet.

That little round bit on the end is a sleeve nut retaining the pommel. The problem with these is trying to get hold of them without chewing them up. I just use a vise grip and deal with the damage, but you can try padding one with a bit of leather. Under the pommel may be a hex nut retaining the grip, or it may just be the one end nut holding it all together.

@@michaelrizzo5523 thank you for your input! That’s what i was about yo do but i wanted to be sure that it was a treaded pommel before starting to force things up and potential breaking it! Thank you again!

The biggest difference is Cold Steel swords made in China vs India. The Chinese-made swords I have all have flat-ground edge planes that come to a very keen edge with no secondary bevels. The India swords are made with usually 1-2mm blunt edges and then given a very steep secondary bevel. My attempts at appleseeding, which can fix a broader India-made blade, in this case still wind up with a very obtuse edge angle because there's not much blade width to work with. I suppose the Cavalier could be ground down to those flat planes, but you'd be removing a lot of steel. You'd be reshaping the entire blade all the way to the spine.

@@michaelrizzo5523 The Cavalier Rapier has a good thrusting blade but the cut seems to be more of a feeble cut. Probably due to the bevel profile. Even so it's a beast of a thruster. Just solid. I would not even bother too much with cutting.

As a nimble, sturdy thrusting sword, absolutely. I love mine.

Depends on what you're training, if I might ask. Big differences in use and dynamics between a bokken and rapier that's transitioning toward becoming a smallsword. This is a thruster only, no edges, and a very different way it's held.

@Michael Rizzo so basically, this is more or less something to train with, rather than an actual weapon.

@@rajahtsuki3513 It's absolutely a lethal weapon in terms of being a long sharp steel spike. But it's designed for a style of swordsmanship that evolved around parries and thrusts, not cuts, and as such has no cutting edges to speak of. A bokken is a training version a Japanese style sword, used styles built mostly around powerful cuts with relatively few thrusts. If your style is built around a weapon like that, it thrusts differently because the blade is curved, like a saber or dao. If you'd like to train with a straight blade for thrusting that is also great for cutting, I'd recommend a longsword for two hand use, or an arming sword, broadsword, backsword, sidesword or Chinese Jian (Gim) for one handed use. There are also straight-bladed Japanese style swords like Ninjato. For comparison, there are many "Rapier vs..." videos on KZfaq so you can see the advantages and disadvantages in a fight.

@@michaelrizzo5523 oh OK, thank you!!!

@@rajahtsuki3513 What styles are you training, if I may ask?

I have tried my best. The diamond cross section is just too square. Best it can do is a very superficial slash. It's almost a smallsword in function.

I was wondering if a nice rapier could cut like a long sword

@@jakemake142 I haven't found one with that kind of leverage, much less blade profile. I've managed to put an edge on my Christus and my Musketeer can cut out of the box, but more like a light sidesword.

@@jakemake142 The cuts from a rapier are worrying cuts at best. They can injure you,but they don't cleave or cut like a Falchion, Messer,Arming Sword or Longsword. Those swords cut far better , but lack in the thrust like the Rapier. The Rapier is geared towards the thrust primarily. The cuts it can deliver can be lethal enough. Just not as lethal as others. They can cut enough to matter. Enough to dismay your attacker. But they won't cut arms off. Given the medical technology and knowledge in the 1600's that certainly can matter. Particularly thrusting wounds. Penetrating wounds are worse than lacerations ( cuts) overall. Lacerations can certainly hurt or disable your hand if you aren't careful. If you were to receive a laceration to the chest by the rapier it would certainly hurt like no other. Your clothing can help here, but you won't die from those lacerations to the chest. Clothing is fairly resistant to cuts. That same Rapier that stabs you in the chest is far more lethal. Even with clothing in the way. Many people died from thrusts. Cuts or Lacerations for the most part are superficial wounds. They can be stitched up and repaired fairly easily. Penetrating wounds are far more difficult to deal with. That's why they made Plate Armor, Brigandine and steel Cuirass. To oppose thrusts. Be it from a rapier, spear or halbard. You could also use a steel Rotella shield as an alternative too.

Compared to the larger Windlass rapiers I've reviewed, this one is a quick nimble little thrusting monster, and impressively stiff. Just don't expect to cut anything with it.

@@michaelrizzo5523 yea I primarily wanted to have a nice stiff rapier because I feel like most others are too flexible. You sold me on its stiffness. I am quite happy with it :)

@@keon3503 Excellent. I was thinking I'd do a flex comparison video thrusting my various new Euro swords into my trusty target.

@@michaelrizzo5523 that sounds great!

@Athos Aramis did it compromise it's rigidity at all?

I will happily take the blame. Not sure who I can blame my new purchases on, though...

What did you get and when's the video

@@The-Mad-Taoist Cold Steel "Pirate" Cutlass. Just finishing a few mods for the second half of the video.