Absolutely. Also, backswords need more backswords on the market!

Thanks!

Hanwei really fudged it, especially by just painting on the scrollwork instead of carving it in, but I like it a lot better than the CS. The CS is a good functional training tool, but that blade finish is just bleh and that guard is definitely disappointing, especially since I know they can do better.

@@michaelrizzo5523 The blade is definitely over polished. It is surprisingly nimble, and I find it thrusts accurately, or at least as accurately as I can thrust. It cut reasonably well out of the box, slashing card board, not razor sharp, crap at cutting paper. The sweet spot for cutting is just past the end of the longest fuller. The Hanwei is an approximation of the "Cromwell Sword" in the Royal Armory. It - the real one - has a japanned guard, gilded decoration and some nice bar work on the guard. The cup is pierced, and the grip is "fish skin" wrapped in wire. The Hanwei mostly does a good job at the hilt end. The original blade is a backsword, and doesn't appear to have much if any false edge. Both the Hanwei and CS blades are likely much superior to the original blade, and of the two, the CS is probably slightly closer, though the original has one really long, irregular fuller that almost reaches the tip. And it might have a ghost of a second on one side. The Royal Armory has a website you probably would like if you don't already know it.

That's what I eventually took to the grip and guard.

@@michaelrizzo5523 Í was amazed once I was told about the trick as it made things far easier. Cosmoline is a good protectant for shipping & very long term storage, but man is it a goopy mess!

I probably will cut them off once I figure out an artistic way to do it. They still snag.

@@michaelrizzo5523 probably the best option.

I still enjoy and regularly practice with them, especially the Cromwell, though I did give the grip a leather wrapping.

I haven't managed to get either one apart, but I don't think they're peened. Maybe if they loosen up with use I'll try again but I didn't want to force it too much. The CS was probably made by Windlass, and their tangs usually drop down to about half the width of the blade initially and then taper evenly to the threaded part. The Hanwei replacement Tinker blades look similar.

And, of course, I put one on...

So how dull is dull? Bad beveling on the factory sharpening (KOA and SBG list it as "sharp") or actually blunt? You might be able to improve a mediocre edge with a decent sharpening steel or diamond stone, or make a good edge better with steel or wet stones, but if you need to reshape or remove metal... Depends on how hard the blade is. It's possible with a good fine file--I've done it myself with my old Marto swords--but it's a long, miserable job. A basic Worksharp or cheap 1X30 belt sander should be less than 100USD. It may also be possible with a Dremel and a lot of patience, but may not be very even. The upside of using hand tools is there may be fewer catastrophic "oops" moments and you won't risk overheating the blade.

Battlefield? I'd go for ease of carry, durability, versatility and low maintenance. One of my beefier shin gunto (designed for a 1940s battlefield) or one of my "tactical" swords. I love a good basket hilt or sidesword, but they're a bit chunky to wear. An arming sword of some kind might also make it on my list.

Funny, I had the exact same idea: put a decent katana blade in the Universal Kyu Gunto.

@@michaelrizzo5523 Of course the only place that sells the Universal sword models here in Europe is sold out :(

I don't know what the prices are like on antique Kyu Gunto are like in Europe but I have 2, and I paid less than $300 for each. One I paid only $130 for at an auction, it was a "unidentified sword" found in someone's attic, that one is a little more worn looking, but amazingly the hilt is rock solid, and all of the shark skin grip / wire wrap is immaculate and tight.

I have that Ryujin Hatamoto with the non-magnetic stainless steel tsuba. I'm guessing that's what it is based on the hardness and density.

@@michaelrizzo5523 makes sense. I feel stainless for modern hilt components is a good idea as it is strong enough to the job & resists rusting/discoloration.

3lbs 4oz, so on the heavier side. It is a sharp, live blade, so I use it for target thrusting, cutting and solo practice. There are blunt fencing versions.

I think they may be referring to the cast guard. The blade should be 1566.

@@michaelrizzo5523 well see they also say the sword weighs 13 pounds which is ridiculous. Then they say it’s considered too heavy for free shipping, I better call em and clear all this up

@@TheMan-je5xq Yes, I noticed they suddenly switched their $100+ purchase = free shipping to exclude all swords as "overweight/oversized". That's disappointing. Mine weighs 3lbs 4oz. Check the price over at SBG, which is usually $20 flat rate shipping. I think it's in stock.

@@michaelrizzo5523 Well just to let you know I just got off the phone with them and I informed them of this mistake with the weight and they said they are going to correct that saying that with the sheath and box included it weighs 5 pounds something which would be about right. I also wanted to know if for sure the blade is made of carbon steel and they said they would have to get back to me on that, I just want verification of this and they would probably sell a lot more of them if they put the right information on there. Since it won’t weigh so much under the description maybe then people will get free shipping on it again too

@@TheMan-je5xq I just noticed they'd changed all their sword listings to "overweight/oversized". As they've shipped to me through UPS, maybe they got hit with a rate increase. UPS delivery in my area has been pretty iffy in the last few years. I just got an overnight package two months late.

I'll probably do an update soon, but I'm still so divided between them. The CS has a more comfortable grip, is almost a pound lighter, and has held up to cutting practice without a scratch. I'm also less nervous about using it hard since it was much cheaper. I did give it a better edge bevel and finally cut and rounded the sharp points on the basket. The Hanwei is a lot prettier, while the CS looks more like a chrome hood ornament. I also gave the Hanwei a katana-style Ito wrap which made the grip more comfortable, but it still tires me out faster than the CS because of the weight. I practice with them both about equally. Maybe one day I'll find a third choice to compare to?

@@michaelrizzo5523 thanks for reply, the hanwei scottish backsword might be a good third option. i was planning on cold steel but i heard eaely models were not that good. (too whippy, thin blade n tang) but i hear they fixed those.

@@fatman4792 The CS has more flex and quite a ring to it. I've been having a hard time finding swords in general available lately, but some have started to restock. A good Scottish basket hilt is probably in my future, probably a Hanwei over a CS. The Windlass Battlecry Culloden also looks promising.

@@michaelrizzo5523 i went with the battlecry culloden over the hanwei and cold steel. reason being i hear hanwei tangs are hardened and becomes a weak point (snapping where tang meats gaurd) the culloden is a beast. and has a beautiful black marbling on blade. also the scabbard is comes with a nice frog. feels solid, pretty heavy at at basket. flexes nicely. picked one up at museum replicas unfortunately they are discontinued.

@@fatman4792 That would be my usual luck.

Which is unfortunate for I much prefer European style blades

@@macbethmeyer1592 I also like European swords more. But replica sword makers for Japanese & Euro swords have had very different focuses for many many years

I've been considering a rapier but the ones that are most appealing to me are, of course, sold out.

@@michaelrizzo5523 Which ones were you looking at? Tell me about it everything is sold out and / or discontinued. I really wanted a Windlass 18th century Small Sword and they discontinued that right out of the blue and no old stock anywhere. May have to get their 1840 NCO sword instead. At least my Windlass Culloden is sitting at the post office for collection next week.

@@mir9302 There were a couple from Windlass and Cold Steel that caught my eye, mostly because I'm not ready to spend a lot on a sword I'm not very familiar with and may not get much use out of.

@@michaelrizzo5523 The windlass Rapiers are pretty solid and some have good prices. You really need to handle before buying. The Windlass Pilsen is very nice for people with smaller hands. Another option is the Windlass "Sword of the 30 years War". I had one of those. It is something in between a true rapier and a side sword. I personally liked it a lot. Got offered more than I paid for it and sold it though.

@@mir9302 The 30 looks very nice but, my luck, discontinued...

For backsword and broadsword I started diving into McBane and Silver, but have been practicing Ferdinand and Page a lot lately. I also crosstrain these swords in "sidesword" style, since I've really gotten into Manciolino, and unpacking a bit of Meyer. Very interesting contrasts. There's also crossover potential I've found in later Saber such as Hope and Hutton. Kind of getting a sense of a lot of systems, see how they compare to the Japanese and Chinese forms I've picked up. Not sure what all's going to "stick" for me yet.

The CS suffers from being fundamentally a Windlass product ("Distal taper? What's distal taper?") but the Hanwei is pretty unforgivable as I know they can make a much better blade. Their basket hilt backswords have distal taper. And, yes, I'd love a recommendation for a better one.

I've polished a lot of that fake "antiquing" off and improved the grip and edges, added a partial leather liner. It handles and cuts pretty well now. Time for an update, I suppose.