I love that they made way more product lines than could possibly be profitable. Someone at the company is clearly just passionate about it.

Cold steel. Overbuilt and heavy, super strong. May not be balanced like original swords. But, they will outlive you.

One thing I know of Matt is that, regardless of how much it rains, he's always superdry.

I have a cold steel sword for my dress uniform. So far, the wardroom has not been attacked, So I think it has done its job.

I have a cold steel smallsword; it's a bit on the heavy side but at least it's really stiff to enable good penetration, and we all know that's all that really matters.

I own a cold steel Jedi light saber, I cut through a bank vault and two storm troopers. Then the battery went dead.

I have a 1917 naval cutless. Its nice, I like it, cuts just fine. Matt really knows his stuff and this channel is invaluable. Thanks Matt!

I bought their Nodachi, nothing else is half as much fun for hedge maintenance.

Great and honest review. Very respectful and to the point. Thanks. 🙏🙏🙏

Just purchased my first sword, a Cold Steel “Viking Sword” (have since watched your video on Viking swords lol). I love my sword, but I certainly agree that it isn’t 100% accurate. I did enjoy hearing that Cold Steel is durable and well-made for what it is, and as I’m in the USA, my sword was quite affordable.

I bought a cold steel Italian long sword, it’s razor sharp and is durable as a rock

I'm more interested in their spears. It's hard to find any reviews on them and other companies since nobody seems to love spears.

Over the years I’ve purchased a few cold steel products and have not been disappointed , the whole of boar spear , war hammer , kukri , all are quality stuff.

For the price (in the U.S.), and for what they are and intended for, their machete swords are very hard to beat. I have owned the barong machete for years now. Near indestructible, you can stab with it as well as cut and chop. Yes, there is a clunk factor. They are made for long use with lots of sharpening and loss of material in mind. They can be great if you mod them right. Aggressive sharpening on the blade and counter balance in the handle and lanyard hole. They currently retail for just over 20 USD. That is insanely cheap for what you get. I would not go cold steel for a long sword or a reproduction but a hybrid machete/sword/knife is right up their alley.

I always appreciate an experienced opinion especially one in conjunction with a comprehensive analysis. Thank you!

Thank you, this is a subject I’ve always had questions on. Cheers!

The best thing about CS swords are their variety , they really do have a broad range to choose from . Most people only ever buy one sword and if it’s not katana shaped then I always recommend CS because they won’t fall apart , will survive a bashing and people never have an original to compare too . Great swords for one off buyers or newbies

It is always a pleasure to listen to Matt because he is very clear and logical while showing his deep knowledge without showing off. He wastes no time on hype or irrelevant stuff. Just explains the what and the why in a clear and FAIR analysis. Great. I would trust him as a judge because of the way he reasons always taking a look at both sides of an issue and not jumping into a shallow judgement. This is an increasingly rare thing these days which is very sad.

I love my Chisa katana. It's part of the Warrior series. Balanced, cuts well, and tough as nails.

Oh, hey, Superdry is back

I think you nailed it with Cold Steel blades being designed for cutting and durability.

Cold steel is the name given to a hodgepodge of swords knives and machetes produced in different parts of world by different companies under contract Indian companies(windlass) make almost all of their Sabres and european swords Machetes are made by lasher tools,south africa Fixed blade knives are made by camillus cutlery USA And the katanas are made either in taiwan or china

Totally agree. I recently purchased a CS 1796 light cavalry sabre. It does have a distal taper, but it’s still a bit thick in the foible. But, I only paid $300 Canadian for it, so I can’t complain too much.

I really like Cold Steel knives, their “Tri-Ad Lock” is phenomenally strong and for the price (here in the U.S. at least), they are the best quality and value. However, I know very little about swords (although I have been training in Atienza Kali) but I did own a Cold Steel “European Spear” and was severely disappointed by the quality and sharpness. (Generally all the knives I have received from Cold Steel have been pretty sharp). I did also own their Barong, which they sadly no longer produce, and was happy with that. I am very interested in HEMA and just love Ancient and Medieval/Renaissance swords and weapons. But I’ve heard the same issues Scholagladiatora has repeated by other people on the internet whose opinion I respect. So my question to Scholagladiatora is: What weapon manufacturers do you recommend for well-balanced, tapered, etc. swords and weapons from these periods?

I'm a huge Cold Steel fan. Thanks for the honest review. You should check out their Kukris. I think you would be really impressed. I have several.

Excellent information Matt.

Great explanation of the importance of weight distribution.

Not having watched the video yet. However, let's making an educated guess. Matt may say: "Well, it depends, BUT..." ;-)

Glad I saw this, I was thinking about getting a couple of their swords but am now reconsidering.

Hanwei and Windlass next please!;)

Thank you for answering that question I have had for a long time! I have a Katana from Cold Steel and it's very heavy compared to what I had imagined one to be like.

As an American we tend to prefer our tools and weapons "overbuilt" as you put it

Great video. Thank you for this one. I’ve never really been a sword guy. But the more I watch your channel, the more I want to get a sword. I look at the Cold Steel line because they are somewhat reasonable in price, but don’t have enough experience to make an informed purchase.

I own the cold steel 1796, it's very heavy and unwieldy, has a pommel nut, and is a wrist breaker with even mild movement

Thank you Matt for making this one. I know we have been asking for years.:) Im suprised no one has brought up in the comments the fact that a couple of web-based sword dealers, here in the states at least, i.e. Kult of Athena, offer no guarantee and dont offer a return service on cold steal swords. Due to an extreme lack of quality control. In the same shipment KoA got swords that were perfect and others with cracks in the steal or loose fittings or no edge at all on blades that are addvertised to be sharp and "battle ready". Has anyone else run into these problems? On another note. I have noticed lots of cutting tournaments use thier Italion longsword. Which reinforces Matts point about them being made as good cutter/choppers. I have handled some of the shamshirs they make and if held up next to the Windlass version, it looks like the blades were made at the same forge. Is there a chance they use the same supplier? Cheers!

You should add something about distal taper to the title. The part where you described it and its importance was way more interesting.

So if one were wanting a high quality, 18th or 19th c. cutlass, what would be the best option? There are many choices for medieval and Renaissance swords, but there really aren't many options for later weapons.

Now I know what distal taper is and why I need it. This just improved my sword knowledge for the better. Thank You! 😎

I knew this about my Cold Steel saber before I bought it, but I wanted it more than rational thought would allow. Now I have this heavy club where I could have kept that money to save up for a good sword. But before this video I hadn't heard of Albion swords; Cold Steel was about the only brand I could find.

Thanks for the information. I have been waiting (and am getting it this week) for the cold steel hand and a half. It’s a new batch.

Wow I was actually thinking of buying one thanks for the review

I would love to see a review of the Cold Steel Thompson saber some day. Since he put his name on it, I would hope that it is a cut above the run of the mill products. Pardon the pun.

Excellent video with a few points I never considered before. Thanks! I notice in most things you can have either something designed for demonstration/sport, or something good for it's normal use and those are usually two different designs. In my former career (LEO) we had competitions wherein departments would compete with their K9 units putting them through some very cool-looking but impractical tests. Crowds would cheer and some dogs, especially from big, better funded departments would win handily. I was curious on those results because the K9 and handler that worked under me on my squad were, simply put, phenomenal at their job but fared poorly in the competition. In looking closer, I found that those champion K9 units did not work the street. They simply trained every day for competition. That begged the question, were these even really "working dogs" then? Nope, but they sure make the crowds stand up and cheer. When I used to shoot competitively (not saying I was any good, just that I competed, LOL) in was in law enforcement team competitions. We had guys that tried to use "race guns" and those were quickly regulated against as, while they were good at shooting tight groups and for run-and-gun stuff, they were not good for duty use and this was clearly designed as a duty-rig competition. You don't want a quick draw holster with practically zero retention and an open frame that exposes the weapon to the detritus of the world as a duty rig. You also don't want a weapon that only tolerates one or two specific loadings. Again, built for competition/sport, vs built for real-world use. Martial arts ... oh could go on for hours here, wrapping up my 34th year of martial arts study. The art I've been in for about 19 years now and teach the most is purely for combat (Jujutsu ... the Japanese - i.e. original - variety). Folks call me all the time and get frustrated that we aren't constantly running to competitions and stacking up trophies. Some of my students DO go to MMA matches and some have even competed in Judo matches (which comes with its own challenges if they have no specific judo rank) and usually do quite well. But those who've had real-life fights-for-their-lives are quick to point out how unrealistic competition is and they prefer our sparring and training. Judo, Taekwondo, and other stuff didn't keep some guys with knives from turning my insides into outsides a few times. But, gosh, they sure look at lot prettier in demonstrations. (IMPORTANT: I am not knocking ANY martial art/sport/way, simply stating that some are better designed for actual combat than others but ANY martial study is better than sitting on your butt).

Wow, I didn't even know you had made this video, Matt. I have bought a couple of CS weapons and the 1796 Light Cavalry Sabre is one of them. I'm by no means an expert on how heavy this sabre should feel but I would say for a single-handed weapon it definitely does feel pretty heavy (again, I don't know what the ideal weight range would be). I would think that you're pretty accurate on your assessment on their overall quality. Seeing as how CS has made several product videos actually testing their weapons I would totally agree that they want to make sure that if nothing else their weapons are strong enough to resist warping or breaking because they know a lot of dudes are gonna get their sword and immediately go outside and break open coconuts and various other things in testing them. My example appears to be pretty sharp and it's even sharpened to some degree on the back edge of the tip which I didn't expect. I bought mine for display and have no plans to cut anything with them unless the rules of physics completely fail and we actually do experience a zombie apocalypse.

Good take but I must compliment you for having Firefly in the shelf. Excellent series.

Matt, I would love a video (or direct me if you have already done one) that more fully addresses distal taper across types of swords. I know distal taper is important, but as you note here, some swords need it more than others (e.g. a rapier would presumably need more than a saber) and I'd love a fuller exposition on that

Hi love the channel. I am currently working on a character for one of my stories and I have yet to completely figure out what the best sword might be for him. He is a very old man who spent his youth in heavy armor with sword and shield and has kind of learned the old man's lesson as my father would put it. As in, the minimum required effort for the greatest effect. Is there a sword that embodies that philosophy.

Excellent video! Thanks!

Makes me wonder how much this variance in mass and weight distribution was a common thing back in the day even between blacksmiths in a town or city.

The delta between Matt, a man of seemingly normal size and build, and the two guys that do the Cold Steel videos. Those guys are over 200 maybe 250. Way over 50kg. Matt is dedicated to speed and grace, not being a portly, stationary chopping machine.

I have a cold steel cutlass machete. I have taken some sabre fenching and feel confident with it. Great video as usual.

Nice and informative Matt.

Matt are there companies out there that have the proper distal taper required for a fighting sword or saber? And would you please recommend some if there are any.

I have a CS1917 cutlass and its heavy like a cinderblock. Unbreakable, but I would never want it in a cutless(duel) way to heavy

Matty! i was literally just looking at a cold steel long sword and i immediately came to YT to see if you or skal had reviewed any of them and you mentioned you can probably find a sword of better quality for the same if not a bit higher price. i was hoping maybe you could point me in the right direction? love your content man! Im in the U.S btw

Matt, I'm looking for a Cavalry FIGHTING Sword/Rapier for 30 Years War Reenactment and I found most of the Pappenheimer type Rapiers you can buy to flimsy and light. I looked into the Mortuary Hilt swords, but I'm not a fan of how they handle. Have you any suggestion for a sturdy, yet still elegant Cavalry Sword that can also be used comfortable while fighting on foot?

I bought an Italian longsword from Balaur Arms that appears to be decent quality, light weight and well balanced. My only issue was the blade edge was chipped by the sharpening service and I am contemplating whether or not I want to exchange it for a new one or just have a knife sharpening shop file it out for me.

Great video Matt. I have a distal taper question. I recently purchased a very nice looking viking sword from kultofAthena. The sword looks very nice and looks well made. But trying to wield the thing feels like swinging a baseball bat with a brick tied to the end of it. It has no taper in either direction and the blade is really quite thick. The sword is heavy enough that I feel like I need two hands to use properly but it is designed as a one handed sword. Is this how these swords were originally designed? Were they meant to be more of an unwieldy heavy chopper than a nimble sword? Trying to swing this thing not only do I get tired very quickly but also use all my strength to recover from a swing. Am I missing something?

Matt, do you have any recommendations for functional replica infantry spearpoints and wood shafts?

Speaking of dynasty forge. Are you considering reviewing the German Artillery sword they make?

Ideal video to watch as I am in the market for buying a sword and has been looking at some cold steel options 👍

Thank you, great information 👍

their Trail Boss axe is actually pretty damn good, I was shocked. For the money you can't beat it, bit of sharpening and its a handy tool.

Hi Matt, what’s the particular sword you’re holding in this? I caught that’s it’s made by Dynasty Swords But would love to know the model. Kind regards.

thanks for the video what is the sallet in the background?

I had a Cold Steel MAA Norman Sword and it had a threaded tang and pommel and the threads on the tang were welded on very very poorly and it snapped at the weld on the first (rather light) strike on a cardboard box. Haven’t bought from Cold Steel since.

Luckily the Cold Steel Colichemarde is as optimized for thrusting as possible, regardless of the target. It's not a historical replica, however, but an interpretation. The forte is about twice as long as the historical models, and the cross section is diamond with a double fuller rather than the historical concave triangular cross section. Thus it's a bit heavier than the real thing, but a fine piece in its own right. If it can still be found, I recommend it highly.

I agree with your assessment Matt. I own several CS knives, some axes, some machetes and two swords: the Italian Longsword and the hand and a half. Both are the MAA (Man At Arms) versions. I greatly enjoy cutting with the hand and a half but you're right about the lack of distal taper. Not sure how it would work in actual combat, great against zombies i suppose.

You should do a review of DarkSword Armory. Even tho Cold Steel isn't all that great, I admire the standard they set in the "absolute proof" videos and the challenge they laid down. It set a new standard. Zombie Tools and DarkSword Armory show that you can basically abuse the sword and it doesn't care, and that it handles like a real weapon. I'm no expert, but I think they'd be effective.

Very much appreciate your perspective. I love my Cold Steel knives and carry one on the regular... although as I've gotten older and a slightly higher income I appreciate my Benchmades more and more. I know almost nothing about swords other than what I've learned from you! The Cold Steel machete I have is okay... not that impressive but then it was $30.

My only Cold Steel sword is the barong they sold in the early 2000s, and it does have a tapered blade. The handle is a bit thick, but it was designed for larger hands. The scabbard is not made like those of any other barong in my collection. My only real issue is that the blade gets stuck in the scabbard, but that also happens with a couple of my barongs purchased in the Philippines. I can't really complain since I bought it during one of their sales for only $75.00.

I have their US 1860 saber. It has a nice distal taper. It doesn’t feel like a baseball bat, it feels like a good weapon. Plus the brass is pretty :)

I own several Cols Steel products and love them. But I only own one sword- MAA Messer. One handed Messer. It has a POB of 1". slight distal taper. Not heavy feeling. I bought it due to reading reviews and they were very accurate. Wish I had more sword experience to compare it. But I can do sole drills with it and it's nowhere near a machete that I was using. Over all a very accurate review Matt. Most of their swords are tough, but not for fighting. Hopefully they are changing that.

Very qualified and good explanation.

My general impression of them is they are cheaper, decent in durability, sometimes have issue with quality control.

Great information given out Sir. I own 2 Ronin katanas the long sword and the arming sword. I'd love to get a proper fighting sword ⚔️ but I'm just a peasant any suggestions .

Matt, do you have any experience with the Windlass Steelcraft Company? They are sold here in the Colonies at Atlanta Cutlery. *correction: they used to be. They sell swords and reproduction weapons. I have a few of their Bowies and found them to be fairly well made and rugged. I used one (the Horn Handle Bowie) for 9 winters in North Carolina prepping firewood for the wood stove, and general field use. Carried it every day. It’s still one of my favorite Bowies.

I am in America and was looking both at cold steel (high-end) and Albion swords. And it's amazing to hear the truth. What is your recommendation for either an arming sword or long sword? (Manufacturer). That's of high caliber/quality?

I would like to see a review on cold steel's Cinquedea sword.

hey what’s that european sword second from the top there in the background i have been looking for years

Almost a decade ago I ordered the two handed Messer from cold steel. The first one had a bent tip, the hilt and crossguard were mounted backwards. So I sent it back. After a few tatami mats the hilt broke on the replacement. Maybe they improved in the mean time, but I won't spend hundreds of bucks on a maybe.

I have a few Cold Steel products. - Colichemarde Smallsword ( quite sharp for a double edged Smallsword) - Shell Guard Companion Dagger - Colichemarde Dagger - Heavy Duty Sword Cane ( this is pretty sharp and beefy) All are quite sharp. The Shell Guard Companion Dagger is quite quick to withdraw. Cold Steel tends to run heavier than normal. They evoke the spirit of the sword ,but are not exact replicas of any particular type. They certainly are robust. And the points on them are quite good too. I have yet to try their Pappenheimer Rapier and triangular Smallsword.

Love your channel!!! But I'm interested in your DVD collection behind you mate!

Hey Matt. Not sure why but I just had to subscribe and punch the notifications bell again. Not sure why KZfaq unsubscribed me... Missed your content man!!

What are these better options (other brands) for replica sabers? Too often it seems cold steel is the only manufacturer for those a shop carries.

The folding knives are great.

IMHO Cold Steel's best products are their machetes. While they don't have fancy features like more expensive machetes (distal taper, etc), they're rock solid in construction, and available in various historical blade shapes.

I bought a Cold Steel Chisa Katana, which came with a very sharp edge from the factory, but refining the edge with ceramic stones, followed by leather stropping, and final edge polishing with an agate burnisher, it's nearly scalpel sharp. I've also bought a cheaper Roman Gladius machete sword that they make, and it's deadly sharp out of the box as well, but a file rough edge - perfect for a machete.

I have a cold steel gladius, that is a bit front heavy, is it possible to modify the point of balance?

what kind of spear is that lent up in the corner? that looks awesome

Matt, what company can you get one from that may be better for like you said " a little bit more"?? Tnx.

Very good explanation.

im looking for a messer or a greatsword, does anyone have any good recommendation ?? looking for durable and something to keep a good edge :)

Totally agree. I have a Cold Steel Warrior series katana. The thing is a tank. Super heavy to the point of not usable. Tough but I would never choose it for fighting. Good thing that doesn't come up often. ;)

What about their Swiss halberd? I know their kinda random with their pole shafts, but I'm wondering if I could buy the head itself and make a custom handle?

I own the Cold Steel 3V Master Tanto and love it. Razorsharp. I know nothing about swords but enjoy your channel. Cheers.

I own a couple of Cold steel products, but have avoided the swords due to the UK pricing. I have a few swords by Windlass and Hanwei and am very happy with them.

Have you reviewed one of the Gladius swords

What would be a good beginner sabre to buy, and where to buy one? Also, what sort of price range should I expect?

Can anyone tell me what that sword is second from the top that is horizontal? I have been looking for it for years to add to my collection