If you edit start to finish in you RAW converter or just do minor tweaks in Photoshop, it doesn't really make much difference. But, if you retouch and use multiple adjustment layers in Photoshop after RAW conversion, you will benefit from ProPhoto RGB. You can always convert to sRGB and your printers profile after retouch.

V vK All modern Apple displays are based on P3 color space. Adobe RGB and P3 are similarly larger than sRGB, and have a lot of colors in common. Adobe RGB leans more toward blues and greens, while P3 is more into yellows and reds, so the entire Adobe RGB color space can’t be fit/displayed on your macbook monitor.

@@Stylemypic Thanks a lot for your answer!

Great summary. I started using ProPhoto about 12 years ago as I shoot almost exclusively in RAW. However, my primary focus is multi-shot stitched panoramas and these became incredibly large in the ProPhoto RGB space. File space management and processing time quickly became an issue. So I only kept my best work originals in RAW and saved my larger panos in Adobe RGB 1998. My wide format Epson printer does a great job on the Adobe profile. Now with larger storage, faster CPUs, GPUs, file transfers, SSD and super fast ram, ProPhoto would be my choice, if starting today.

The "same exact color" ist not the same. Your #d7bd96 transtlates to RGB 215, 189, 150 which in ProPhotoRGB is much more saturated. The numbers (0 to 255 in 8bit) are stretched around a vastly larger colorspace (the steps from each number to the next are much larger). This is also the problem, when you combine 8bit per colourchannel with a large colourspace like ProPhotoRGB, which can lead to visible colour-banding. When you use softproof, the colors are mapped to the gamut of the target-colourspace which ist often smaller. So you don´t see much difference. The colorspaces for rgb and cmyk in the settings in photoshop etc. are only fallbacks if you open a picture with no colourspace embedded. Monitorprofiles: programs like photoshop can use the different monitorprofiles of different monitors when you drag the picture to another monitor. A software which requires to assign a monitorprofile in the settings is not able to correctly display colours on a second monitor unless you assign the other monitorprofile. The program optimally should be able to detect the display and to switch automatically to the appropriate monitorprofile of the respective monitor.

RGB is a color model, sRGB, AdobeRGB etc. are colourspaces. Correctly said your monitor has 99% sRGB or 99% AdobeRGB, not RGB.

Jennefer Cooper If you ever plan to print high quality in future where color reproduction is important, then Work in Adobe, if not sRGB is fine for web and general prints.

​@@Stylemypic just a quick clarification for me, will the color shift if I work in pro and then convert to sRGB? it will be slightly dull?

Jennefer Cooper It won’t change if you convert the colorspace by using the option convert to profile. If at all, the changes won’t be visible. But, if you ‘assign’ color profile instead of ‘convert’ profile, that is when the colors get drastically affected.

@@Stylemypic oh good to know. Thank you for the responsive and clear answers! very helpful!

It doesn't matter if you can't see the prophoto colours because there isn't any display or print that can show it - whatever your moniter can show is the limit to what you can see on that moniter. Prophoto isn't used for the purpose of "seeing" it - only for editing and preserving colour info before exporting. If you have a 99% SRGB moniter you will see the same thing regardless of which colour space you use What you don't do though is export a prophoto and upload it, or change from an SRGB file to a prophoto file. The reverse is normal though

It depends on what you do in Photoshop. I would suggest Adobe RGB just for the fact you are editing the jpeg, but If you do any excess exposure and color corrections, your 8 bit Jpeg image instantly loses detail. See why: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j5Onhquhs7DXXWw.html That being said, if your final image is strictly for the web in a maximum size something around 1500x1500 pixels, should be fine with sRGB.

Are you working with very high saturated colors? Most probably those colors are out of gamut of sRGB color space. See if this video helps understand better: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bsCIi9Og0tqzdJc.html

It doesn't matter if you shoot portraits or landscape. If you shoot RAW, the camera settings won't matter. If you shoot JPG, then the setting makes a difference. The important thing is how will you finally output the image. If the final image is meant to be seen only on screen, then sRGB is fine. For high quality prints, Adobe RGB is better.

Definitely shoot in RAW if you retouch your images, regardless of what monitor you have. RAW gives color flexibility for editing while camera jpeg will bake in those colors. Convert the raw to adobe rgb for printing or srgb for internet.

If you don't manipulate lighting and color during retouching, you won't see any difference. The only reason to make use of all the extra color 'information' that is available in ProPhoto during retouching, which should result in smoother color transition mainly with extreme edits. So you have a great starting point before you convert it to Adobe rgb for printing or sRgb for web.

If you export your RAW file to Photoshop for further editing, then export it as ProPhoto RGB. You can also set the working space to ProPhoto RGB in Photoshop. The larger ProPhoto color space lets you edit with color values that might exist in your image but can't be seen. Once final edit is done in Photoshop, then export in any other colorspace as required. Data Color is talking about your display monitor colorspace, which is different.

Elf Waldgeist The main reason is to make use of all the extra color information that is available in ProPhoto during editing which should result in smoother color transition mainly with extreme edits.

@@Stylemypic Elf was asking how, not why.

keioghein hi Keioghein, you should learn working on colours using RGB or LAB number values.

Did you try uploading from a different browser?

No you won't see all the ProPhoto colors. But if your images have high saturation areas, then editing in ProPhoto RGB will give you a better quality AdobeRGB when you convert the final edited image.

@@Stylemypic thanks a lot

Firstly, Shoot in Raw... and then while converting the Raw image in Lightroom (or Capture One) make sure to assign the ProPhoto RGB profile.

@@Stylemypic Thanks! Also, I recently bought a nikon d610 as my first full frame camera. What "cheap" zoom lenses would you recommend me to get started?

I would suggest you go for a couple of cheap/budget primes as the quality is always MUCH better than the cheap zooms, and sometimes even on par with expensive zooms.

b1blazin13 The main reason is to make use of all the extra color information that is available in ProPhoto during editing which should result in smoother color transition mainly with extreme edits. So you have a great starting place before you convert it to Adobe rgb for printing or sRgb for web.

DCI P3 is a newer color space which has slightly larger color gamut than sRGB color space, and slightly less than Adobe RGB. So it fits right in between sRGB and Adobe RGB. Pro PhotoRGB color gamut is even larger than Adobe RGB.

@@Stylemypic thanks so overall price to performance display should have 💯% adobe rgb right

@@TechPill_ As of 2021, Yes.

Adobe RGB has more colors, due to this the RGB values are mapped differently than sRGB. So a certain RGB value might show different colors in sRGB and Adobe RGB.

There could be so many factors...is your monitor calibrated? what is the color space you are editing on? Make sure your color profile isn't stripped during export. And if it is not stripped, did you convert or assign profile to sRGB?

This video can be helpful: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pKhnlKiasLfbZnk.html

@@Stylemypic thank you. I will have a look and get back to you

You seem to have a deep understanding of these questions, and perhaps you know the answer. In Adobe Profile Editor one can create linear raw profile with linear curve. It is also can create an accurate color profile with colorchecker target, but it seems possible use only one. When we go to ACR we can choose one only. How to combine accurate color profile created with colorchecker target with linear raw profile so that they works together?

DCI P3 is slightly better than sRGB and could completely replace sRGB in future as the new standard and take the third place in the list.

@@BoJar6170 Sadly not true. All it does is let you SEE (with a monitor that can display...) the colours your monitor is capable of displaying. It lets you make better adjustments in terms of 'accuracy' to things like WB since you can SEE the difference in colours/tones. But it DOES NOT do anything to the file or final image by itself.

​@@WizardOfCheese "with a monitor that can display..." Which monitor is that?

@@keioghein9514 Sorry, bad explanation. The colour profiles are only good for DISPLAYING colours while you edit them, once they are converted down to sRGB, the end product looks exactly the same way it would if you were to edit with sRGB. A 500ml jug of water poured into a 250ml cup = a 250ml cup. thats essentially what AdobeRGB/ProPhoto to sRGB is doing (metaphor ftw). Hope this helps.

@@WizardOfCheese So you're saying ProPhoto can be seen on some monitors while you edit them, right? So I'm asking which monitors. But StyleMyPic just says there are no monitors that can show ProPhoto. But he also says if you use ProPhoto, you will have smoother color transition! I'm confused!

@@keioghein9514 I have no clue, google, I'm assuming there is a monitor out there that can display it, otherwise why are they bringing it up? the bigger question is: is there a printer out there that can use the larger colour space? if not, whats the point? Most peoples monitors are sRGB so there is DEFINITELY no point in using it 'for web'. Yes, you'll SEE smoother color transition (and more variations of tones) with larger colour spaces IF your monitor can display them (but it wont look any different from sRGB to everybody else viewing from sRGB monitors - which the majority of people use). I guess its hard to explain and thats why people make these stupid videos. Here is a test you can try out yourself - in preferences set your colour space to ProPhoto and apply a preset, convert to sRGB and save as a jpeg. Next - change your prefs to sRGB, open the same raw image, apply the same preset, save as jpeg (no need to convert because its already sRGB). Now compare the two images side-by-side in ANY colour space you like. They will look identical. There are no extra tones or smoother colour transitions. Check the histogram if you want to double-check, its a placebo. The greatest 'unlock' you can do with raw files is always edit in 16 Bit and don't re-edit Jpegs because they are 8 Bit and degrade quickly due to compression. The only way you get to keep those 'extra tones' is if you save it as a 16bit TIFF with the colour space embedded - for print. If you upload an AdobeRGB/ProPhoto online it can mess with the colours in a bad way (pale green tones). Best to just keep it on sRGB and edit what you know everybody else will see, UNLESS you are printing, then sure go with AdobeRGB/ProPhoto.