Your welcome, thank you for watching 👍 if you have questions, you know where to find me 😉

Glad you liked it!

Glad it was helpful!

Hi FloydReed, thank for watching. Yes you can add a circuit breaker it would give it more protection. 👍

Hi Andrew, thanks for watching, I have a question, are both your batteries LIFEO4? I was actually planning to get some but I did see lots of people saying the same thing your saying. Anyway the LIFEO4 batteries dont like to mix with lead acid batteries in parallel, that’s is why I’m asking if both your batteries are LIFEO4? Let me know, will try to figure out the issue. 👍

Hi TOM FIRSCHING, thanks for watching, you will laugh when I tell you. I use Microsoft Paint

Hi PatCaerone. Thank for watching. Don’t forget to subscribe 👍, best thing is to do is a print screen, that should work. 👍

Hi PopPop, the size of wire needed will all depend on what equipment (in total) is connected to your always On Fuse box. I have a video that explains how to calculate the size of wire needed. Take a look at this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mcVpgNt2ydK2pXU.html You need to add up all amps from all equipment's on the always On Fuse box. Then you will take a look at the column 10 to 13 ft since that's the distance you have. So example: if you have 40amps max in total when everything is on. Then you would need 8awg wire connected from battery to your fuse box. I got this from the video that is linked to this comment. Let me know how it goes...

For your dual battery smart charger. Are we talking solar or electric. Send me your model that you plan to install. I will see what I can do 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 I am not confident in my choice but I was thinking the NOCO Genius 5, x2 (2 batteries) and an after-market plug so I can use an extension cord directly to the boat. I have not purchased anything yet so If you think something else is better I am open to your suggestions. I have a flexible 120V solar panel I was maybe thinking of using on the boat but not a priority. thanks again, Professor!

Hi Michel, I actually like the Noco products. It’s a good choice. I would need to know if your batteries are set in series or parallel? Professor 😂 far from that, I just am a tech in electronic 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 Hi Joe, my boat wiring is a complete redo so I don't actually have anything installed but I have a starter and house battery like in the video, only connected by a battery switch. Was also thinking about installing an automatic charge relay (ACR).

Ok will try to do a wiring soon. 👍

Hi James Jaeger, thanks for watching. It’s a good question you ask. If you leave you boat on the water and it rains overnight your bilge pump might work hard and discharge your starter battery fairly quickly. A deep cycle battery is meant to be able to run your equipment longer. A starter battery is design to give higher power to crack engine. Not to run equipment for a long periods of time. Now with that said. Even if you do connect the way you said you want to connect. It will work. It all depends of your needs. Got this from a website, it’s a great explanation. “A starter battery is designed to provide a large burst of current for a short period of time. This surge of current turns the engine over during the starting process then the alternator takes over. The burst of energy only discharges the battery 1- 3% then is topped off by the alternator. Under normal use your car battery may go through its entire life without ever being drained more than 20 percent of its total capacity. Starter battery = single bust of energy A deep cycle battery is designed to provide a steady amount of current over a long period of time. A deep cycle battery is also designed to be deeply discharged and charged over and over again without shortening the lifespan of the battery. Dakota Lithium batteries can be drained to 10% of their total capacity before needing to be recharged and are good for 2000 to 5000 discharge/charge cycles. Deep cycle battery = steady, continuous power for a long time” Hope this helps 👍

Thanks for explaining. I’ll never have my boat on the lake overnight. Day trips only. 95% of the time starter battery will only start the 20 hp Tohatsu and run the Garmin 9sv echomap . Any advice you have I deeply appreciate.

I don’t know if you already have your batteries but if you don’t, I would look into dual purpose battery. “Some deep-cycle batteries can be used for engine starting as well (these are sometimes referred to as dual-purpose), but be sure to check the CCA rating to ensure the battery has sufficient starting power” this should not be a problem with a 20hp engine 🙂 I would get 2 and have them in parallel. So your outboard alternator would also recharge your batteries when running. This is the best worry free option. If you already have your deep cycle battery and your starter battery then you can connect your trolling motor on your deep cycle battery and have the rest running like you wanted on the starter battery. Not the best option but will work. 👍 Don’t forget your deep-cycle battery doesn’t get recharged in this configuration. It’s not connected to the outboard alternator. The only time you can charge the deep cycle battery is when you get back home and plug the noco charger OR unless you install battery switch. Then when your deep cycle battery gets weak you can run the alternator on it by switching the battery with the switch.

Hi Eric, thanks for watching. Yes absolutely you can add a house battery in parallel. The positive with the positive and negative with the negative. Parallel is very simple. Just try to match the Amp per hours for both house battery. Will help the life battery to last longer. Here’s info on parallel vs serial: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hs9ijNCHx7evlGg.html hope this he helps 👍. Let me know if you have questions.

@@joetheboatguy5394 Thanks again. I will check out that video.

Hi Gary, thank you for watching and the nice words, check out this video let me know if it helps you: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oq6nmNerlZ62j6s.html

For the house battery it’s ok unless you have another battery reserved for the trolling engine. Ends up costing more💰💰💰. Also depends how much you use your trolling engine. Many ways of doing it. Depends on your needs.

@@joetheboatguy5394 Use my trolling a lot. have been caught with dead battery too many times, so isolating them seems to be the way to go. thanks for your help.

Hi Bryce Cain, thanks for watching. If you have a bus bar with all your grounds plug on it. Then even though the battery is unplugged you will have hull and ground continuity. Your outboard ground can be connected to hull also. So even if your battery is completely disconnected you will still have continuity if you have all ground on bus bar and also outboard ground might be connected to hull. If I didn’t answer your question, please let me know. 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 Ya thats whats confusing is the hot wire running to the switch panel is disconnected on both ends and still has continuity to the hull. The motor wiring is all disconnected from the battery also. Even if the motor is grounded to the hull, the negative cable from the motor is not grounded to the battery with any other wires and the hot lead to the switches is not connected to any loads. Lots of fun, its why im upgrading wiring. thanks for the help.

@Bryce Cain , oh boy hot wire that goes to ground lots of fun. If you have everything going to fuse box. One trick I do is, have your multimeter connected on continuity and remove one fuse at a time to see which one cut the continuity. If that works, you will have a good lead.

Hey Bryce Cain, Did you find the culprit wire?

@@joetheboatguy5394 oddly enough I did some more testing and found that there are 3 wires from the switch to the wiper Motor. Red, blue and black. The black attaches to the metal case of the motor and that case in turn is attached to the hull unisolated. This is all factory original. Haven’t specifically found a hot wire contacting the hull but if a black circuit wire carries current from the load back to the battery and that black wire is also in contact with the hull then ???

Hi Harleysoltes, thanks for watching. No, unfortunately I don't use Visio or other electronics programs. I just use paint in windows, its long but easy to understand for all users.

Hi kylesilvio, thank you for watching. I’m sorry I don’t have that information on mercuiser. I do have a video on wire sizing but don’t know if that’s what your looking for kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mcVpgNt2ydK2pXU.htmlsi=2ynd4gJvpi54U4Rf Let me know if this helps. For the fuse, all equipment you have usually have a fuse specification.

Hi Range Master, thanks for watching, for the first question : how do you install an onboard 2-bank battery charger See this video : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h56GmrWD0bXRh2Q.html For your other issue: Deep Cycle batteries don’t all have the capacity to crank the engine. Make sure your batteries have enough Cold amps for cranking engine (CA or CCA)…. Is this a new issue or is it always been like this? Let me know 😊

@@joetheboatguy5394

On the second issue, it seems it has always been like this the only difference from your Diagram is that I have the engine connected to a deep cycle and a cable from neg to neg in (parallel) which I don't think would be the problem.

I'm sure it is but just a side note, make sure the engine ground is connected to the same batterie. At this point, I would connect the engine directly to the deep cycle batterie to make sure that the batterie has enough CA to start your engine. Old deep cycle batteries are not designed to start engines. New deep cycle batteries are much better in CA. Might also be you starter on outboard.

@@joetheboatguy5394

Hi michealmisdary, thank you for watching, Here is a wiring diagram of a 96 Bayliner, www.bayliner.com/content/dam/bayliner/technical/documents/past-owners-manuals/1996-Capri-IO-.pdf last page has color codes and wiring diagramme I have a video about radio installation, check it out. I'm surprised you didn't mention any red wires. You will have to find which wire has constantly 12v and which one has 12v ignition. Let me know if this help :) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f85knrt4rpreqpc.html

Hi redwood1957, The best way I could think of is at the end of the video do a print screen and then print. 👍

Hi Ahmed Mahmoud, thanks for watching, what switch model do you have? If i understand correctly you have a green flashing light on your switch. I will look it up to see what’s the light drainage. Let me know thanks

@@joetheboatguy5394 Hi. I have the blue seas mini ACR 7601.

Hi Ahmed Mahmoud, if you want to get rid of the green flashing light during storage. You can put a switch on the ground wire of the ACR. That will open the circuit and led will not flash 👍

@@joetheboatguy5394 And that should stop the battery from getting drained by the green flashing light.. is that correct?

That is correct, once you flip the switch and open the circuit, the green light will stop flashing. 👍

Hi Douglas Rios, Inboard or outboard, I don’t think the wiring changes. I might be wrong.

Let me know what you want to connect. What motor you have….