Hmm that's interesting, I didn't think about looking at what the yoke is doing. Initially I thought it was an issue with the B+ voltage to the flyback, but it seems pretty solid, only varying by about 0.16% (124.8V to 125V) between full brightness and black.

I got a JVC DTV 1700CG with this blooming issue. I checked the high voltage and it sits at 24.7Kv. It doesn't fluctuate too much as in the bad one in this video though. Around .2kv at most. Is this still a bad flyback? This is a high end monitor but with 37k hours.

@@ramiq7932 I have a 1910CG with the same issue did you find a solution to yours?

@@carlocgc seems most DTVs end up having this issue sooner or later. I assume the flyback just ages badly. Only solution is to calibrate your DTV and make sure your peak white isn't too high to minimize the blooming/breathing that happens. How many hours on your tube?

Yeah that's a tricky one, could be the replacement flyback also has an issue and is tripping the x-ray protection, or it could be something in the x-ray protection circuit itself. If you have the schematics available they usually indicate the x-ray circuit. Sometimes you can spot it by looking at the pins coming from the flyback, one of them should have a couple of diodes facing towards each other (cathode to cathode) with a capacitor in between going to ground, but this isn't always the case. Anyway, I hope you figure it out and feel free to throw me any questions you have

@@TheRetroChannel I have the schematics and I can see the protection circuit there. It really is a matter of me taking the CRT apart and figuring out which part is bad. But I must overcome my fear of getting electrocuted first. So I am watching CRT repair videos in the mean time :-) Do you remember the first time you tried something like that?

Sure do, and I was shit scared. You'll become comfortable with it after a while. Start with just unplugging it and opening it up, and looking around. You can safely touch the CRT itself, just don't stick your fingers under the anode cap. Grab a multimeter and probe a couple of the larger caps to see if there's any voltage stored. More than likely the caps would have discharged themselves long ago. Once you're ready, grab a plastic handle flat blade screwdriver and clip a lead to the metal part of the screwdriver and the other end to the ground strap or one of the ears of the CRT. The lead itself doesn't need to be thick as although there could be high voltage, it will be very little current, even just after powering it off. As long as the lead doesn't have broken insulation and you have a solid connection to the screwdriver and CRT ground there's nothing to worry about. Slide the screwdriver tip under the anode cap until you feel it touch the anode clips, if you're lucky you may hear a tiny click, but more than likely it will make no noise if it's been powered off for a while. Again once you're satisfied that there's no high voltage stored in the CRT, have a go at removing the anode. Peel back the rubber cap with your fingers and have a look underneath. Most will have some kind of clip to hold the anode in place that needs to be squeezed inwards. Do that and remove the anode lead. Take a look at the anode connector on the CRT, you'll see it's just a shallow hole. Then have a go at reconnecting the anode lead, it should clip back into place and feel solid. That should help you feel a bit more comfortable working inside the CRT, at least when it's unplugged. The real fun starts when you want to do adjustments like geometry and convergence, those really need to be done with the CRT powered on

I recently repaired an Amstrad CTM640 monitor that was making the same noise. But it wasn't from the flyback it came from the power supply transformer. The monitor had originally failed from a blown power supply section ie diodes that then obviously blew other components. The flyback looked in good cosmetic shape so I was suspicious it had failed. Mine had a blown Schottky diode near the flyback and the two voltage regulators had gone also. Replaced these components and it now works perfectly.

Do you have the German eBay sellers name please?

Good point. I eventually figured it out in this sort of follow up video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/beBmh5llqtLRXac.htmlsi=eE7o2oKjJJuMZyDQ

The repair will definitely come in part 2

THANK YOU for this comment. This makes sense, digging thru my CRT repair manuals now.

I guess for our much smaller population you could consider them somewhat common. But a tested and working one will still run you about $400AUD on eBay

Hah, yeah very rare these days. Wish my own 1084 had one 😄

True, but without the Commodore logo they just look like they're missing something. And yeah, KZfaq is shit when it comes to spam filtering, I have all the spam settings turned off and it will still nuke anything with a link 😒

Don't know about the D2, have you tried putting in just the part numbers from the flyback into hrdiemens "original reference" search? Sounds like you do have a high voltage leak. Have you tried running it in a dark room with the rear cover off to see if you spot any arcing? Just don't get too close because if there is high voltage leaking outside the flyback, if could target you