Thanks for the video, not much out there on these old school burners. Just fixed my 12 psi problem thanks to you. Plugged like yours. 🍻

18 year Clean Burn tech here. This particular burner he is working on is a very uncommon burner and about 30 years old. The 200 and HS series have heating elements making direct contact with the oil. Unlike modern burners. (1993-present) Because of this they do gum up quicker. If you have a 500 series burner you can send them in to be flushed and tuned. Or simply have your distributor come out and do an on-site flush. On my personal furnace I have a metering pump which I gravity feed with transmission fluid at the end of the heating season. The ATF helps clean the block due to the detergents in the fluid. Diesel fuel will do much the same. But if your burner is to gummed up it may just cause more nozzle plugging.

Thanks for the video! I have a newer model and I’m having the same trouble even though I disconnect the power during the summer months. Scared to touch the heater block but with this info I’ll give it a shot.

Thanks for taking the time to explain. This will help with my diagnostics.

When you start having those issues more consistently, you have to completely disassemble the aluminum heater block and remove all move all the 1/8" pipe plugs to completely remove all the sludge in the block. Then it will run for a long time without cutting out. Just cleaning the heater element is a short time fix, the rest of the heater block is still loaded with sludge.

The stainless steel turbulator nozzle that you showed with the six angled slots cut has the same angle as the firing pin of a AR-15 and M-16 but only three angled slot cuts. The design keep the weapon from no firing condition. What you started with the uniqueness of the nozzle assembly is right on as compared to a regular home oil heater nozzle. What exactly is so different from the 1992 heater as compared to a 2022 model RPM ?? Well explained video Sir.

Funny to see that you have a heater block in that way. I have only seen small models on house hold burners have small heater blocks. I have a Kroll UB20. I ran it for 8 months without service. But it was due to me centrifuging the oil. I stopped having sludge in my tank, my filters, heater bowl, injector nozzle and ash in the combustion chamber. Regular used engine oil will give you about 300-600 grams of sludge per 200 liter.

I bought a CB 2800, nobody maintained it, everyone expected ut to work, cleaned entire block and nozzle, rebuilt regulators, added a spin on filter and differential gauge to discharge side of metering pump, havent had a single issue in 4 years besides cleaning heat exchanger and fan motor

The addition of a DODGE badge will massively improve the mopar moment of warmth

Great video👌 im currently having the same issue, thank you very kindly for the info👍

Heating on ✅ a good way to get rid of used oil I think adding a large oil filter as used on a big trucks. Only large for a better flow rate. But the oil you’re using has a lot of sediment in it. Also keeping your supply line 6” or 10” off the bottom of your tank.

Awesome thanks

Great explanation nice work!!

I have the same model heater. Can you tell me what air compressor you are using?

Good info

We have a Clean Oil Used Oil Burn 2014, and our problem is that the flow jumps up & down and after a few hours will shut down. Never runs throughout the day at all. I have checked the nozzle, cleaned the complete furnace out with the targets in the back. The air pressure is set for manufacture spec at 10 and the oil pressure at 2 on the guage. However, this never remains a constant and drifts down until it runs out. I have also increased the pressure to start it up as well. What could this be? Do they all operate on the same principle from one year to the other?

You need to contact dealer put bigger heater in air side and unhook oil heater and plug hole the bigger heater heats aluminum block and cutes down on carbon plugging tip.

Nice 👍

Your wrong about standard furnace nozzle to clean out. In fact the screen does unscrew from the rear of it and can be cleaned out. Depending on which nozzle size you have you rig up a reverse pressure feed to dislodge the blockage then reassemble. But with a good filter system you will never have a problem. My WMO system doesn't use air assist . Just a 140 psi fuel pump attached to old Becky

Ik ga kijken want ik heb het zelfde probleem met mijn CB 2500.

Wut model is ur heater

Would running (burning) some kerosene through it once a year do the trick?

Out of upstate ny and only service waste oil furnaces and boilers. Find me at waste oil america if you need service

Have you heard about the used oil furnace from 1950 that ran on water? Patent was issued to army service men in Texas for ONLY adding water line to T fitting for used oil burner on used jeep engine oil, to get 50% increase in efficiency. That was not what was written in their application for Patent. SS coil tubing in brick insulated firepot of oil burner hooked to input common water line. Oil furnace started. Temperature gauge monitored for temp up to 1500 degrees F. Then valve opened so as superheated steam is allowed in T fitting with oil to nozzel. Nice burn flame runs constant. Then oil line shut off. Furnace still runs. Shock wave from 90 lbs pressure to AMBIANT zero in firepot forms hydrogen and oxygen torch flame that also heats heat exchanger. Normally water molecules separate at about 3-6000 degrees which is too much energy. The vibration shock wave allows for disassociation at lower temperature. Electric motor with dual shafts ran 2 oil pumps at 90lbs. If water shut off, and cooled down, the furnace has to be restarted on oil. (US patent office not allow overunity for public.)...

Block heaters DO NOT WORK! Most modern waste oil gun burners have an oil heating tank mounted to the side like the Bairan units from China (awesome units), usually around 500ml of oil capacity in the tank, controlled with an adjustable thermostat. The issue with block heaters is they get hot spots around the element which literally cooks the oil causing carbon deposits which end up blocking the oil pathways. This burner is a very bad design sadly.

Do u have enough air blowing into it to burn the oil hotter so u don't have gunk left over