Hey Matt, could you provide prints or a diagram for your conversion? This is by far one of the nicest and cleanest builds I’ve seen on KZfaq.

I certainly appreciate the engineering modifications you have accomplished and the cogent, logical explanations you present. You have done a good job of presenting the information at a layman's level of understanding. I suspect there is a good deal more involved and that your background and experience allowed you to accomplish this, whereas it might bedifficult for the typical home mechanic. Thank you.

Would be nice if he sold diagrams for what he did..that's a really nice conversion great job

Thank you! I think that, like most projects, it may seem quite intimidating for a "first timer." But once you dive into the work it isn't all that difficult. I think that a competent auto mechanic could duplicate this project. I didn't know what I was doing when I built my first one either! There have been quite a number of people on the Garage Journal who have built similar furnaces after following my videos and posts.

Innovation and invention is what drives this country. I am proud to be one of the contributors. And you are correct; I STILL don't know yow you became an expert on a furnace that I designed and built.

I appreciated your idea of the 20 second timer for the float switch. I had one fail on me a couple of years ago and whilst I "only" lost 20L of oil the cleanup was hideous. I set the time constant on my timer to 75 seconds because when the outside temperature dropped the oil became more viscous and the boiler kept locking out. Thanks for sharing your expertise.

You are quite brilliant! Wish I had you for a neighbor so I could pay you to build me a unit like this with such great safety features. Excellent video, great details. Simply astounding.

I had a store bought one for waste oils, and i can attest to these things giving an excellent amount of heat, I heated a 6 bay shop with one, and the oils were free... They are illegal in some places, only because the big oil reclaimer around here lobbied the government to make a bylaw against them,, Bullshit, these things burn cleaner than a regular furnace, but I believe it was safety kleen that lobbied this, their profits were in danger...... Great conversion , you should sell a plan set on how to do what you did qwith all links to buy the parts, I would be first in line to purchase. Thank you for uploading and sharing. Cheers Neal Ward

Have you heard about the used oil furnace from 1950's that ran on water? Patent was issued to army service men in Texas for only adding water line to T fitting for used oil burner on used jeep engine oil, to get 50% increase in efficiency. That was not what was written in their application for Patent. SS coil tubing in brick insulated firepot of oil burner hooked to input common water line. Oil furnace started. Temperature gauge monitored for temp up to 1500 degrees F. Then valve opened so as superheated steam is allowed in T fitting with oil to tiny nozzle. Nice burn flame runs constant. Then oil line shut off. Furnace still runs. Shock wave from 90 lbs pressure to zero AMBIANT in fire-pot forms Hydrogen and Oxygen torch flame that also heats heat exchanger. Normally water molecules separate at about 3000-6000 degrees which is too much energy. The vibration shock wave allows for disassociation at lower temperature. Electric motor with dual shafts ran 2 oil pumps at 90lbs. If water shut off, and cooled down, then furnace has to be restarted on oil. A much smaller unit in crate was shown to a US senator in Washington building underground parking , as an open trunk display. This was somewhat similar to the propane operated camping stove with circular pores, vertical round fire brick insulated chimney, and interior SS tubing of water. When steam introduced to T fitting, the fuel used was shut down leaving burning circular torch flames. It probably used minerals free distilled water so as nozzle would not clog. (US Patent office not allow for over unity for public.- Free Energy is eliminated in issued US Patents. US- 1958, 2,863,499.

Beautiful. Seriously, the plastic loom to protect your wiring harness, smoothly bent copper tubing without kinks, PID controllers handling oil temp...super nice. Perfect application for the SSR's but you might want to consider adding an upstream mechanical relay and an overtemp sensor because those solid state ones like to fail _closed._ But really outstanding work....

YOU are a true real ENGINEER , verry rare these days . regards from Sweden

The exhaust gas is pretty hot (touching the vent would lead to instant burns); but the siding is concrete-based, and the door is steel. It burns clean enough that it doesn't deposit any soot on the paint, so no worries about running it so close to the shop. If you want to build something like this, I suggest you go to the garagejournal (link in my video description); I have an entire "how-to" writeup there, and lots of other people have contributed their own furnace builds.

That "dude" in the video is me. I select my donor furnaces for their combustion chamber design. I don't just use any old furnace. And I am no idiot; I am well aware of the liability of putting together a furnace that is operating on a fuel that it was not designed for. What I don't understand is how you suddenly became an expert on a furnace that I designed and built; one that you have never even seen.

Impressive. Loved the clean burn. Semi-truck oil changes are a good source of oil.

I am using a stainless Hago siphon nozzle; it uses compressed air to atomize the oil and siphon it through the nozzle. The oil supplied to the nozzle is at atmospheric pressure; the function of the oil pump is just to circulate the oil to keep it preheated. The tip of the nozzle looks like a small venturi; large opening for the air, small opening for the oil. Yes, the blast tube still uses a retention head. I made my own one out of 11GA T304 stainless to achieve a better burn pattern.

Manuscript delivered to Patent office was approved, but redone to Patent, to only allow 50% efficiency increase of oil furnace by addition of steam from water line to spray nozzle. Military soldiers off duty during 1950's collected used jeep oil to burn in used oil furnace. They attached water line SS tubing coil in insulated fire pot and by monitoring temperature point would open valve for T fitting to allow steam line mixed in. The steam had been changed to super heated steam with flame on coil. At 1500 degrees F, the oil valve was shut off , allowing A Hydrogen and Oxygen torch flame to continue. Furnace provided constant heat unless water line shut down. If temperature then was reduced, then oil had to restart furnace to get it back up to proper temperature. Motor had dual shafts for 2 oil pumps for 90lbs. each. The highly sensitized H2O at great pressure was subjected to vibration shockwave when exiting pinpoint hole nozzle to AMBIENT. The gases separated and burned with the 10Kv ignition. The lowered dissociation temperature of steam was realized, rather than normal 3-5000 degrees F. A much smaller working burner unit with fire brick surround in large box was shown to senator in under ground parking garage. No further news came afterwards.

Great build! I have this video saved for reference for when I'm done building my shop!

He has a link in the description to a forum build thread for more details. Y'all have to have a pretty advanced understanding of how a waste oil furnace works before converting a fuel oil job over. I got a waste oil furnace for next to nothing. They are around in the cold parts of the country for cheap. Get one and learn it before doing this. Just my 2c.

Great video. I just picked up a fuel oil boiler with a Beckett burner on it with the same intentions. I appreciate you sharing your methods here.

Very nice. As an HVAC technician I find your design very interesting. I wouldn't have thought you could get that complete a burn with waste oil in a converted furnace. I would guess thats a 95% + furnace you used? By the ways guys who wonder about no smoke, a more complete fuel burn = less smoke. Look it up before you jump all over it.

I would agree, if this was a standard pressure nozzle setup. I have the siphon nozzle tee-ed into the pressure side of the pump, and returned to the siphon tank (at atmospheric pressure). The oil dripping is what is left in the line that runs from the tee to the nozzle after the pump shuts off. Adding a few seconds of igniter/air operation after the pump/blower shut off would eliminate the drip, I think...

A bolt on flat strip surface heater on the tank bottom would save a lot of work in welding the threaded flange and the overheat/low oil issue. You can buy them in just about any size and wattage. They won't burn out as they are always dry.

this guy certainly knows what he's doing

I've burned over 7000 gallons through my first furnace with no problem... Still, I take the time several times each year to inspect the heat exchanger and other related parts to make sure they are not failing. I highly doubt you have seen a properly built and maintained waste oil furnace melt down "a hundred times."

Thanks for the tip! With fall approaching I have my furnace apart, doing some routine maintenance. I will consider changing the primary control...I do have a problem with oil dripping from the nozzle after shutdown.

So I'm sitting here watching your video loving the build. I'm about to be doing the same thing.. I got to 4 minutes and you looked at the camera and I was like ...OH SHIT I know that guy...gotta say it the first time i did that unknowingly.

Dude that is freaking awesome. Nice job.

Love this unreal man I would pay good money I mean really good money for one of these good work man u r the waist oil master

pretty cool! I'm a master plumber & an oilheat teck., you should consider a newed primary control with pre & post purge. It would establish the air pattern, usd less electricity and clear kut the combustion chamber upon shutdown. A beckett genesis would do the trick- regards.

Next time we change out a decent oil burner I am going to build one too. Great vid.

A person can modify a piece of equipment to suit a purpose other than that which it was originally intended. Cars are a perfect example; bolt on and re-engineer enough stuff, and you can turn a stock Tacoma into something capable of running the baja 1000. I'm doing something similar with these furnaces...no, they weren't designed to run on waste oil. But with proper tuning, modification, and redesign, they will run on waste oil just fine.

Finally, a waste oil heater that won't blow up, leak, burn the shop down and destroy your lungs. Can you discuss how you filter the oil and to what micron rating? I know the burner will clog without filtration.

That heating element might be a bit to aggressive for that small a tank. I would run a 240v element at 120v to cut the wattage down.

If you can't be bothered with the faff, use a blowtorch to warm the nozzle & igniters on your normal furnace for 10 seconds before starting it first thing, without changing anything else.... then fire it up normally, using processed junk motor oil as the fuel.. it'll run happily after start-up. Only cold-starts will phase it - blowtorch is your pal. Processed WMO has one"Sulk" in spray-nozzle furnaces & that's viscosity at initial cold start. Add some heat & that's overcome. Same applies to torpedo heaters - they will sulk starting up on processed wmo - again, blowtorch for 10 seconds. Otherwise they won't fire. With it, they certainly will. :-) Leave the burner/cover loose what for easy access. I know this as I don't run anything else except processed waste motor oil through anything that "calls for " diesel or kerosene.. cars... trucks,, heaters..all sorts of heaters :-) I have to make them work, so I learned. It's fuel, don't overthink it. "You can't do that!" loads say.. Yeah ya can. It takes about a minute to do. Knowing this stuff is important, because fuel costs are about to rocket - just watch. Get a "dumb as possible" old diesel vehicle too - those are already rocketing in price because the smart money people know. Fuel will be the new gold - give it a year, remind me how I was wrong. Some of the richest people going are rushing to get old-skool diesels upgraded because they know what is ahead.. When they worry - you ought too. Follow them, not the herd.

My furnaces use a Hago siphon nozzle with a machined aluminum heater block; ckburners sells them.

Pretty freaking rad. You went at it like Tim the Tool Man Taylor!

I used a Magnecraft TDRSOXP-120V and its matching socket that I purchased off of ebay. If you just search that part number you will find several suppliers

I have had good luck burning WVO in my shop furnace; of course it is converted to a siphon setup similar to the furnace in this video. I have never tried to burn WVO in an unmodified burner. I'm not sure of they year of the furnace in the video; I would guess around 2000. As far as differences between this one and yours...I have no idea! I have wrenched on a number of oil furnaces over the years, and they were all very different from one another.

Great work! I have made the same thing but for a hot water tank. Thanks for your guidance. Waste Oil burner

I'm trying to find a way to heat my Rv with waste oil. I make black diesel for old diesels and it works great but Im having trouble finding something I can set up for my camper I just don't have the mechanical know how yet I guess. I've also seen some wood furnace with forced air heat exchangers which would work well but I'm not sure I could build them Build looks great tho very thought out

I'm not sure how to respond back to you directly so I'll just post it here. well dripping from the nozzle = bad PRV valve, replace the oil pump. installing a new primary control with pre and post purge will stop flame encroachment onto the nozzle.

Nice contraption you build sir .

Curious how you clean the soot out of your heat exchanger? I've built several and soot build up is alway the downfall!

I Want One! I gotta get parts together this summer to build one.

you mentioned making a insert for the beckett out of aluminum would you have the dimensions i have a few pieces of aluminum i could machine

sorry. I hit Send before I proofread. I'm having trouble understanding how the burner unit knows to come on after the nozzle heater temp and the oil reservoir temp have come up to operating temperature

Awesome video u seem to have the kinks worked out I'm just in the process of putting a waste oil burner together I have just made but I'm not sure how I would get the burner to switch on when the oil is up to temp I'm using a becket burner with a nozzle block I've made from aluminum stock with a cartridge heater in it I'm getting close to getting all the wires hooked up would appreciate some help thks Nigel .

In the video, I am burning 15W40 mineral oil, drained from one of my diesel pickups. Nothing else. I'm sorry you don't believe it, but there is no deception in this project or video. There is a small puff of smoke as it lights up, but zero smoke once it is running. The IDI diesels you refer to don't smoke all the time, only under load when there is more fuel than can be burned in the cylinders. They run fine on used motor oil as well, with little or no smoke.

Very good video and very nice build. Thanks a lot!

Thanks for sharing! Food for thought...

I don't actually sell these...too much liability for me to take on! If you want to build one for yourself, check out the link to the build thread on the Garage Journal forum (the link is in my video description).

This is my understanding, based on my research: It is legal to burn waste oil for heat, as long as it is NOT for a residence (I run my waste oil furnace for my shop only). I am not 100% sure about selling waste oil for heat, although I recall reading that it is NOT legal to do this. The waste oil you burn must be your own.

I emagine the heat exchanger gets clogged eventually. But its pennies to find another furnace every 5 or so years and swap out the controls. My waiste oil furnace is a lanair hi-320 that burns over 2 gallons an hour and i gotta scrape the ash out once a year but im sure i could go a few years without cleaning it. Cause its only on when im in the uninsulated barn.

You do really nice clean work.

Neat Setup

a pre and post purge control should definitely help that have you ever looked into a tiger loop?

have you check the co and combustion on it? no soot doesn't always mean it burn right. although often it does mean that

Great video! Do you build these for people? I have a 3000 sq ft insulated post frame building. I would love to buy one these. Please let me know. thanks!

So the thing I see is to have any waste oils cleaned from debris and heated and pressure regulated.

It uses about 2 cfm (just a rough guess based on how often my compressor cycles).

Very impressive! I always look forward to watching your videos

Also, adding a barometric damper would reduce vent temps; I just have the pipe installed for testing...

Sorry...I've never made up a schematic for any of my furnace conversions. I have always worked the wiring out as the project progressed!

Pretty neat.

Brilliant! Thank you for sharing in detail!

The furnace in this video came with one installed; I removed it when I did the conversion. The function of a tiger loop is to eliminate air bubbles in the heating oil, correct? I think that, since I am intentionally introducing air into the fuel at the nozzle, the tiger loop would have little effect on the furnace's operation.

Do you sell the parts needed and the plans? I think that would be a well sold combination. Tell me when you plan to sell the combo. I have a furnace ready to transform. Thanks for the demo.

Did you have to install a barometric damper?

great job on your heater. I also built one with more pre heating i have a low amp ap for fuel filter then after the pump its heated once more to 200 deg then a 3rd time in the nosel to 312 deg. I didn't no how to use compressed air, I would really like to know more about it. I have to add adout 10% #2 diesel to my oil to make it work but with air I wouldnt have to. I hope U read this and get back to me s1gumb9 thanks for the Utube, all my friends R now looking 4 oil heaters.

SUPER, Ive Ownen my Own Welding and Fab Co, for 38 Years, and WOW,, Your a Craftsman,, Like to see there are still some Of Us,That Take PRIDE,In Our Work,, Down to your Mini Oil Tank,, In Ct,, Getting waste oil,as Im also UL 142 Cert, and Unless, Your a Oil Changee Place,, which Of course,, they Have store Bought Raynors,, which They Have to Clean 2 times a week,, There Old,, Super JOB!!!!!!!!,,Congrats,, Jack

Thank you

awesome job

There is a link to the forum where I have detailed build instructions. It is in the video description above. It will take you to the Garage Journal; I have detailed 2 different builds there, and others have contributed their own designs as well.

Please explain, is it legal to burn waste oil in residential heating furnances and sell filtered dehydrated used engine oil as fuel? I am not talking about #6 oil furnances, im talking about "waste oil" or "used engine oil" sign will be in the reciept.

Oil filter not needed? Seems important

You are very smart. Great job

Love the furnace so much I building my own. Could you explain how the burner blower turns on after the temps are up. Thanks

So is that side tank the only reservoir for the oil? You were saying the furnace used around a gallon an hour and that tank looks like it holds at most 2 gallons, not all of that would be usable due to the float switch. So are you manually adding oil to the tank all the time or do you have some sort of remote tank to pump oil to that reservoir?

Vert vert Good concept. I plan to make this and adding 1 or 2 lpm of hho gas.

matt verley, great video. i wanted to ask at 2:50 you explain about the float switch being timed with a manual reset. where can i find the timer you used, thank you

I'm curious, has anyone attempted to build a waste oil burner from a diesel injector pump? I've always wanted to make one like that, if for nothing else than a proof of concept.

Do you have a schematic drawn up for this? If so, could I get a copy? Great design.

Do you know if it is possible to dilute home heating oil with used motor oil and or commercial cooking oil for home heating and with out making any changes to the home furnace? Also at what present would be the maximum dilution? Hope you know and if you do not can you guide me to where I can find the answer.

Hey Matt I’ve been meaning to convert our furnace to used oil in our Auto Repair shop way up here in Canada on Vancouver Island .we have had a bad cold snap and snow this year so I’m now kicking myself for not getting this project done. Any basic info / parts list would be much appreciated. Thx Mike

Wish you had specs on pdf or website... too difficult for me to copy all this from a ten minute video. Great job you did, I just wish I could reproduce this. so many burners out there but most display it in a 10 minute video.

looking good

thanks for the reply. I understand how the thermostat works. I'm just not sure how once the thermostat is turned on which turns on your temperature controllers how does the owner know to turn on after the temperature of the preheater has reached its maximum temp

How do you avoid nozzled drip?

Hey Matt, I really enjoyed your waste oil furnace modification that you did ! I was wondering if you would please post a link to the oil level switch and float mechanism. I'm having a hard time trying to locate one. Thanks for the great videos you been making!

I must have missed something are you introducing air with the fan only or do you have another means that is pushing air through the nozzle?... I don't know how big the orifices on those novels you are using, but on standard nozzles the orifices very small like smaller than the width of a human hair, and any kind of flame impingemet warps the orifice leading to bad flame pattern. Is your burner still being used as a retention head when you burn waste oil?

Hi, after watching countless vids on all kinds of stuff, I appreciate the manner in which you present your work. The burner seems pretty straight forward, how are you controlling the blower fan? Did you stick with the Honeywell board that came with the furnace? Sorry if you covered it already, you seem to have gathered much interest in your furnace design, probably cause it looks like factory work and not some kind of hillbilly moonshine still!

Do you have any Schematics on how to build a oil furnace like that one I'd like to do that for my shop.

Did you plug the nozzle port on the fuel pump and just plumb the inlet port and the return/bypass port?

Do you have schematics or how to convert it to burn oil And how much it cost

Thanks!

i realize this is kinda 0ld post but ive watched probably 20 times im 65 yrs old got a furnace set up something like this with a heating elemant in main line could u send me more info on urs thank u very much victor from Wv lol where its cold here a lot in winter time thanks again

More good done well

I built a waste oil furnace pretty much the same way. How are you regulating the oil pressure after it is split of of the pump. I put a needle valve going to the burner. What do you use?

How well does this burn synthetic oils ???

Wish I had a system like that in this house... Oil would be cheaper then lol