The pads for your jacks can be made out of 2x10"s or 2"x8"s. If you decided it, make at least three, use two all the time, keep one extra just in case one of the pads get too bad so you can't use it no more, replace it. If you have to use 4 pads at a time then again keep one or two extras in case one or both go out of commission in a job but let me tell you, heavy materials are more safe than light especially for lifting. And those jacks won't leave any car you drive stranded. That's the hero part many don't talk about. So, be prouder! I think Home Depot sells small magnets like 1 1/2"x 1" you may be able to epoxy to the back top of your jack setters, hold their tops while hooked into the holes so they don't go easy out or to the sides. If you weld a metal piece at the top just before the head of the jack can escape the metal top, so actually once the head of the jack goes up if it escapes by accident that I think metal piece from side to side, one inch high, will hold the top head of the jack so it'll contain any under pressure impulse it'll got from any accident so your jacks should stay contained into its setters until you take them down and out to its boxes.

That is an awesome solution and I will use this idea on my boat yard trailer I am building to lift my catamaran mold and ultimately my 40 foot catamaran, so impressed with your design, thank you so much.Rossco

I have a 40' long high cube. It's my shop and it's full of tools and equipment. I bought one 20 ton bottle jack from Harbor Freight Tools for $40.00. I dug a hole under each end of the container and set the jack on a brick and jacked it up to set the corners on concrete blocks. Worked great and didn't take long. Shipping containers only have to have support under each corner.

Great idea! I've already ordered the jacks and I'm glad to see it works!!

This is an awesome video for me. I had a new container dropped off and didn't have it leveled and now I need to lift it ....this is a potential solution for me thnx

Good job, I like to see people that don't always take the easy way and have it hired done. 1) at the bottom of the jack there is a yolk with two holes that is intended to be use as an option for safety. You need to build a foot to you stability and a foot big enough to spread the load out and a larger area say it one foot by one foot area. For the most that would alleviate the need for wood blocks most of the time. I would suggest you build the footing out of aluminum. When you build the foot be sure to incorporate stops so the foot can only tilt about 10 to 15 degrees both directions,( BIG TIME SAFETY MOMENT). 2) you really need to add say a U-bolt more toward the bottom portion of the jack. Not tying it tight to the ram but allowing some forgiveness so the ram can lose move around somewhat Loosely inside your lifting bracket. (ANOTHER BIG TIME SAFETY MOMENT) 3) as long you do the safety medications to your jacks you do all your lifting from one end of the container, that is if the container can handle it a own weight, by blocking just off center as a fulcrum blocking the center then the end and back to the center back to the end. Just some pointers from a farm boy and a welder for 35 years. Over years I moved and lifted and manipulated loads up over 200 tons safely. On the farm even as kid almost never any and had to figure out how to get done. Hope this helps make your safer and easier

My same thoughts. Lighter gauge metal, magnet to hold it in place, and strap to hold the ram. Make rectangles pads for the base of the jacks with an offset hole so the loops on the bottom can fit in. Good footing would work great if you even have to use that on a concrete driveway or parking lot.

I had a concrete curb that had dropped about 8 inches. I was able to dig under the curb and bring it back up. Now seeing your jig, I could have made a similair lift and not had to dig so deep. Thanks for the idea.

Add a large magnet to top of bracket and to container to hold up during assembly.

Grate invention mate thank you for showing us

Nice solution for tall lifts! For shorter lifts I use a forklift jack (great for machinery moves too) on a separate steel base plate about 1 1/2 ft square. I also have a Simplex jack but "railroad" jacks don't reach as far as your setup.

cool video, if you do this often a couple of strong magnets make keep things in place during the setup might help

Dude! That's awesome!!! You should do a build video!!!

Got to love harbor freight my friend!

You are a man of many talents, nice job.

I saw a similar video that used a tie-down strap from the top of the box to the top of the black unit. It only served to keep things in place, not for any lifting. Hope that helps.

What exactly is so difficult in taking the load that is on the corner and using the soil bearing pressure to figure out what the appropriate reinforced 5000 psi concrete pad under the corner should be instead of guessing with masonry solids that are unreinforced medium density (maybe 2000 psi) units that are most certainly going to fail. Well worth it for an hours worth of engineers time to figure it out and be done with it.

Great Job thanks DUNEDIN FL

They actually make something called a "container booster". Chassis King and a couple of others sell them for about $175. I also ended up buying a 20T air hydraulic jack from Harbor Freight, was $100 with the 20% coupon. Makes it possible for me (a small woman) to do this myself, one end at a time.

wow ...you open my eyes in to something .I though that if you purchase shipping container you have problem with movingthose things . I have skidd steer loader which wouldn't lift those things but can push a little if needed . With the devise you made i can lift the baby , put 6" pieces of pipe under and roll in to positions with the help of bobcat . thank you for brilliant idea

I did this same thing but I built a couple of 24" by 24" by6" thick ground plates out of crisscrossed 2by8's with 3/4 plywood on both sides and then drilled a hole in the middle for that tab on the bottom of the ram to sit in.

Cool idea. I would think that if you are trying to load it on some sort of trailer tho that you would move the jacks to the sides instead of the ends for the extra clearance.

A surplus computer hard drive magnet, usually comes in pairs and two sets, or 4 magnetic fields all glued onto metal brackets can be salvaged from old hard drives for next to nothing. Go to a computer repair shop, they have boxes of them. Each bracked can pick up something like 20 pounds. If you got two that should do and they can be screwed or bolted onto things.

Why not remove the pin mount on the bottom of the rams? That would allow for a more stable foot pad on the ground.

I made some thing like this invest in some steal plates for the bottom of the Jack's I made a single feed block that controlled a Jack on all 4 corners and take a look at the Bission c lift how they connect to the lift/lock hole I has invested just under a grand sold it for 2 grand after using it for a year. Ps get more air storage (I used old 100 pound propane tanks)

I agree that magnets would do the trick of holding the riser to the container while you set the jacks. The container I have is set up on railroad ties (they are much cheaper if purchased directly from a local railroad contractor - closest one is outside of Bartow). Maybe I can sell you my one-trip container once I get it emptied.

I like the thought process , camera angles need work. lol.

thoses are leaning i dont thing i be that close in cxase one fly out . and be like a tarpedo . but i do like your idea about useing a plastic contaner of covering your wreanch or starter from the rain .

you could use Neodymium rare earth magnets, but be careful they are strong. On the base, I would use 1/4 steal about 12x12 and on the bottom side weld on 3 vertical ribs. Then knock two holes in it and make a rope handle. By the way weld a loop style handle at the top of each stand for a handle. Could use small rebar.

How about some neodymium magnets on the backs secured with a heavy duty epoxy?

Subbed.

Put a hoop on the top of the tow jack and strap it to the top of the container. That will hold them vertical.

Squirt some 3 in 1 oil into the air hose so it lubricates the air mechanism on each jack .......it will help them significantly !!!!!!!

That's bad ass broham

I used my excavator and some chains to lift mine

Where did you get or how did you make the twist lock?

Thanks for the video! I was wondering if something like this could be made for living containers even higher up so you can put them down on a trailer. I've been looking at jacks and there are some long ones but I don't have much experience with cars and trucks.

Good video! I seen those HF air over hydr. bottle jacks used in press mods. These used here seem to have good power although it really slows down under load. I guess that is when only the one on the left was doing all of the lifting. What length of container was being lifted?

2 handyman jacks do the job also

Yeah I wanna see you put a trailer under that because he say I’m trying to do at the office I have a box on my trailer but I’m trying to get off but the problem is it’s not a container trailer it’s a 1954 coe box trailer.

You can use those 45° angle magnets that are used for welding to hold the steel to the container

Nice brother. That is cool. Could you not use a Neodymium Magnet to hold the jack holder in place as your getting the jack in place? Just me thinking. Have no clue if you even need it. God Bless

How about the HF welding magnets. The Large Arrow shaped ones have a good grip. I think I would use rock or concrete blocks under the containers rather than wood to keep the rot from taking them out.

Those jack pads are scary.

A little light thin plate on the bottom side of the jack, with a hole in alignment with the other twistlock hole, poke anything in it the size of a twistlock, round should do it, now jack should be much more steady. If too wobbleie, set it up for a twistlock pin.

You keep standing in front of the camera

great design, just need a little more engineering for safety purposes. You can clearly see the left hydraulic jack leaning as it's pushing up. There still exists a possibility for error, if the shipping container slides, or the footing for either jack gives way from under the load. You get 5 ⛤⛤⛤⛤⛤🎖for ingenuity

Am i blind or did i not see a level being used? Yes, put down a 10" or 12" X 12" piece of 1/4 plate steel to support your jacks so those pieces you used don't turn in on you. I do NOT recommend using 4 X 4" piece of wood (untreated?) blocking for direct earth contact, use a bigger, flat concrete pad(s) to distribute the weight better so they don't sink down into the ground. Other than those observations, nice equipment!! I've had my two 40 foot containers setting flat on the ground for 21 years and don't see any water damage on the insides even in a wet Washington State climate. They do have some air place under them. Maybe i'm just lucky?

Why couldn’t you have made them to go into the stake pocket where the forklift forks go.

T think I will be building a set of these. I would put a round magnet from HD (SKU #907501) on the face to hold the top. What size welder did you use? How about the round stock on the lift pin? I assume the oval is just 1/4" bar stock? Maybe build a 6" x 12" x 1/2" bar stock foot that pins to the jack? Great job. Thanks.

does it shift sideways if you lift to full height? maybe cut out chain key holes to cross chain it?

You think it'd be possible to get Jack's to lift it up 6ft high to get on a flatbed truck?

Where can I buy these air jacks... The silver mini air compressors that attach to the orange rams?

Where do you get the parts that lock into the corner hole things

Where did u purchase the cam to weld?

What did it cost you to make can you email me how too make them

How much kg of air / psi is used to lift it

We manufacture a set of hydraulic container lifting jacks similar to these ones, check out the video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jK2Zh5aQxtPThIE.html

2 words a ,,jeep jack

A magnet!? Omg, seriously? Ok, first of all the pins need to be shorter so they dont have the slack to let the toe lift lean out. Ok, once that is shortened then the base for the ram should be a mated sliding plate similar to the toe lift. It should interlock and slide so the ram stays in position and not able to kick out because its sitting on DIRT on some loose 2x4s. The top plate of the toe lift and the bottom plate of 5he interlocking plate can be 1/2" thick as you are pushing across that width but the tell sides can easily be as little as 1/4" as they are only on tension. I'd like to see your trailer for moving these although in reality I think you only need an axle with some indexing to stop movement at the contact point.

HEY, where did you get the air pumps? I can't find them anywhere, how about a link, or item number, sharing your "AMERICAN ENGUINTY "smile

Nice try . if you had a angle on the corners to keep it from sliding side to side . and it sounds like its over it weight limit its straining to lift I think.

Lest talk man

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