I love how you show that you don't need a leak down tester to do a leak down test you can use a simple hose from a compression tester. Amazing! Wish you would come back to KZfaq and do some more videos your explanations are always one of the best!

Good video in showing the compression and leak-down methods. Just wanted to point out a small error. On a four cylinder engine, you would turn the crank 180 degrees between each cylinder, not 90. It's easy to tell how many degrees to turn. For a four stroke engine, it takes two complete turns, (720 degrees) of the crank for all cylinders to fire, doesn't matter how many cylinders. So you would divide 720 degrees by the number of cylinders. In your case, that would be 720/4 = 180 degrees of the crank to bring each cylinder up to TDC. And for one example on an eight cylinder engine, it would be 720/8 = 90 degrees. Keep up the good work!

Thanks a lot for making this video. I've done this at school. You explain it very well than what our instructor did🤣

Thanks for the vid! I have a combustion gas tester that works well for testing head gasket leaks. Just changes the color of a liquid when combustion gases are present in coolant reservoir. i'm sure you've seen that too. Also, your advice on the iac valve was spot on. Replaced it and that was the fix.

You are the best youtube mechanic, period.

A very methodical and thorough explanation - thank you for taking the time to share this!

This is pure gold.. no blabbing

9:07 -- This is why I love your videos (and your videos are very help too).

Exactly what I was looking for! Now to decide if I want to buy these specialized tools and put myself in the position to potentially replace a head gasket. Thanks!!

..Very, Very Good information!! my son poured 10 gallons of water in an old beater Ford Ranger he had once and asked me what could it be?? Yep, blew the head gasket & warped the head. He scraped it & bought a 95' Honda, it's still running after 10 years...

Had the same problem with my '06 HHR, turned out to be the block. Can't complain after 200,000 miles. Thanks for sharing.

Recently subscribed and gotta say I love the videos! To everyone saying that he lost a subscriber, know that this stuff isn't easy, and that he doesn't have to do it if he didn't want to; but this takes time and money and patreon helps him put these videos out. I'm bummed as well that there are patreon exclusive videos, but I'm still glad there's other videos that he releases to the general public! Thanks for all of your hard work. You have gained another subscriber :)

Thanks for the awesome video. I wish I had the money to spare to watch the head gasket job get done on this car. I'll figure something out. And being a GM engine, I am not at all surprised the head gasket or intake gaskets have failed. Seems to be a running problem with their engines.

LOL----this video is not car specific yet this is the exact engine I'm going to do this test on. That tells me head gasket issues are probably pretty common on this piece of junk. Great video!

great video you did a good job of showing how to use the tools

thank you for sharing your time and information..

You are great teacher

Have a po302 on my 2006 Subaru sti. Currently troubleshooting

Great Video on checking for blown head gasket. I had same problem on my olds but was the head,due to idot lights that failed to come on.Know I-have Head temp gauge in my car to keep close eye on engine temp.But hey In that Video lets try Camera in the Cyl to see what's going on may save lot time and maybe see the problem also. Thanks From Donald

Thanks for uploading this! Useful!

Absolutely superb sir.thanku.this has helped me loads.stephen from the uk. Keep up the brilliant work sir

Absolutely fantastic video

Very Good Video. Best I've Seen Anywhere.

Great steps for checking compression and leak down. I'm currently employed but when I retire I think I'd like "flip" cars. I have most of the tools and a nice shop but I'm not sure what I'd be getting into. I'm guessing a lot of check engine lights and overheated engines are in my future. :)

Excellent video! Appreciate it and of great help as I tackle a ‘67 VW bug.

Thank you, well done.

I was thought not to remove all the plugs before running the compression test. Can you kindly explain why you have to remove all the plugs before the test. Will the test results not be affected if all the plugs are removed before running the test on each cylinder?

Is there a way of knowing whether it is the gasket or the head is the problem? (besides from changing the gasket first) Also are these kinds of rides worth fixing? or would it be more economical to swap out the engine? or send it all to the scrapyard?

Great video. Subscribed.

Thanks 🙏

Hi, wow, wonderful , I'm looking to buy a compression gauge , what brand would advice me which is accurate and true reading ?

My audi a4 1.8t Cranks but doesn't start. Has fuel and spark Could it be a head gasket?

Leakage detected thru crankcase. Tech suggested new engine. Any idea what the problem is??

You didn't say how to regulate the shop air to 40/70/100 etc psi if using your schraderless compression tester hose. I'm assuming you used the regulator on your air compressor but not everyone will know that.

Another excellent review.

Good info to share

What happened if I don't remove the ignition fuse and I do the test , is that mean I rewind something?

Very Nice Brother , Thanks very very much

always interesting, thanks ...

Hey Ratchets, with a wet test increase in pressure by only 5-10psi would the piston rings need replacing? (Also the spark plugs have white build-up)... Thanks for the great vids!

Hi there , even if our battery is new , by cranking the engine we will not drain the battery ? So we have to distinguish between problem with the head cylinder and the Pistons ? If the problem are the Piston rings then the engine is finished and cost lot of money to repair the Pistons , Right ? And what if the car is a Hummer H3 with 5 Cylinders , how do we find out the positions of the Pistons either at exhaust or intake ? as you said the cylinders are acting like sisters 2 by 2 .... and how do you position the cylinders using the timing chain ! ? Your video did not show how to do that .. .thanks a lot ..

Awsome video, It should be $1 dollar per video, because you deserve it, and you would've made $39,593 dollars for this video.

very informative, thanks!

Coolant temp sensor appears to be fine as far as my obd2 shows as well as o2 sensors

Passat 2.8 v6 running rough at idle better at higher rpm codes thrown po341,300,301,302,303: Missfiring on bank one. Ltft: running rich stfr: running rich. Maf cleaned/tested and works at 1.69v at idle 2.65 at 2500rpm. Cam sensor replaced, full ignition tune up done with no avail. Timing appears to be spot on. Question is where do I go next? I'm about to test the vacuum system, then the fuel with a gauge, crank sensor test still have yet to be done. I'm lost if you could send me in the right direction is appreciate

Great vid. I bought a fuel pressure tester that looked good but broke quick. Any good suggestions on a quality fuel pressure tester?

Will a blown head gasket cause more water through exhaust pipe than usual? I literally can put my can n it throws water

Hello, R.A.W! Great video. I own a 2004 S40 Volvo (older model body, 1.9L, turbo). I understand that this car's timing is based on TIMING MARKS versus TDC which I thought was the same but interestingly it ISN'T. Question 1 (Q1)?: What have you heard on this?; Q2?: why do I get zero compression on all four cylinders when performing a compression test? Am I doing anything wrong? BACKGROUND: my serpentine built busted on me on my way home from work due to a small oil leak from my cap seal being cracked. I towed in home. Checked and discovered my timing belt was perfectly fine. I had to remove harmonic balancer and gear for timing build for purpose of cleaning debris from serpentine built wire getting wrapped in some stuff. I reinstalled everything and set it to timing marks and all it does is crank with NO START. What do you recommend? any help is greatly appreciated.

here in our Country I have Air Compressors are measured with Litres and HP .. I do not know which cabability to chose : can you guide me : I want buy 125 PSI Compressor

What if the compression gauge goes down once you crank the engine over? I know that’s not normal

Excellent vide.subscribed

What happens if you don't disable the ignition system and you run a compression test anyting

Great Video!

Hey can anyone help me. I replaced the head gasket on my 97 4runner started it up and still got plumes of white smoke. Doing a leak down test and all of my intake valves are leaking air really bad. Any ideas as to what I did wrong?

Are u the same guy with that speedkar channel ??

The leak down tester in this video doesn’t work properly. It’s the cheap one from Harbor Freight Tools. The company that makes it doesn’t know how a leak down tester should work. I know that sounds ridiculous but it’s true. Harbor Freight does sell a good leak down tester now under the name Maddox. A proper leak down tester has two identical gauges that go from 0-100 PSI. In this video he doesn’t actually use the leak down tester. You don’t need a leak down tester to check for leaks at the valves or head gasket. Any leakage at those points is not good so you don’t really need to know the exact percentage. You just need a spark plug hole air hose adapter. You can use the hose off a compression tester like he does in this video. The main purpose of the cylinder leak down tester is to measure the exact percentage of air leaking past the piston rings. Even an engine in great condition will have some leakage past the rings because they are not air tight. So you need a leak down tester to see if the amount of leakage is normal or if it’s too much. Also, if you have a piston at exact TDC it will stay there no matter how much pressure you put in the cylinder.

U are the best ,thanks

Thanks. Glad I subscribed.

Thanks boss

what would happen if you forgot to press the gas pedal

Anyone else able to find his patreon page? Not having any luck with your link

I'm still trying to diagnose my evap leak and egr codes. I cleared them and they haven't come back yet. I replaced the evap purge solenoid with a brand new ac delco part and the problem still exists the same as before. I'm trying to diagnose my evap canister vent solenoid but the book tells me to use a scan tool to command the solenoid on, but I don't have said multi-thousand dollar scan tool. I have an innova tool and as far as I can tell, there's no control of the solenoids. Can I simply disconnect the connector and supply power to the solenoid with a power probe tool? How do I know if it's switched by power or ground?

What brand your compression tester and how much

not 90º, but 180º turn on the crank 4 cyl engine makes a stroke each 180º ;)

1:49 c'mon you can do it, lol

are you in Otay

At 9:48 it sounds like my morning guts after a night out finished off with taccobell. We all know what happens next....

So pretty much the heads gotta come off when the compression test fails

Thanks, mate..crystal clear 17OCT2017

You should get a sponsor like #EricTheCarGuy did, or put a donate button.

Very good info！！！ your Chinese viewer

I gst try fzess

The low compression in cylinder 1 doesn't bother you?

Yo good thing It was junk car. This man pulled the power tool to screw out the spark plugs

COME ON!!!

🙂

sadly, I ve unsubscribed not because of the content (BTW I love the approach), but because of limited knowledge shared.

90° really? am I that drunk? 7m30

Don't condemn God, please he loves you. Good vid .

he sounds Iranian. Not sure if the spark plugs need to be removed for compression test or not.

man I never seen way too many jump cuts (not talking crap)

You only bleeped one of you swears. . .