Thank you sir, and thank you for your donation as well, much appreciated

Thank you sir 👍

I like mixing things up in my job, plus I have lots of patience on challenges👌

Much respect, and I can appreciate where you're coming from, what I'm suggesting is that they're probably wouldn't be many plumbers that would go below grade to get to that P-trap because that's where it would be, but of course plumbers make six figures a year so I suppose you will still do what you need to do. But yes of course GPM that flows through a bathtub is much more than would be a shower but of course we have a shower curb that's extremely short compared to the size of a bathtub.... I've just never heard of a shower overflowing from the curb because the pipe was too small, that's just my personal take on it. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment ✌🏻👌🏻

First of all your video four years ago really helped me do my first walk-in shower I believe you’re the only one that actually did it right on all the DIY KZfaq videos that I saw. Regarding the 2 inch drain reducing to 1 1/2 I believe this could be a problem, as with a tub you You step out you pull the plug your tub drains in the timing it takes to drain. When you’re taking a shower if the drain can’t accommodate the GPM you’re going to be standing in a couple inches of water regardless if it goes over the curb or not, it’s not a comfortable feeling to stand in gray water while taking your shower. Just saying. I’m going to do this conversion and I’m a little concerned on when I did the first tub install over 20 years ago, where my 1.5 inch drain connects to the 2 inch to 2 inch. I Guess I will find out when I pull the tub and check. But I can definitely see through the access panel that it is definitely a 1.5 inch P-trap.

Thanks 👌

Denshield is waterproof...but edges and fasteners still need mud or caulk and waterproofing

Right ??? Wish it was that easy

@@timtoolman6442 10 days later 😂

I don't like strainers in drains because people will tend to clog those up in short order. And no I do not have a video like the type you're asking for... the rate at which both will drain is about the same, that's not the real issue, plumbers don't like this setup because it makes it hard to snake later on

@@StarrTile awesome thank you for taking the time to reply! I didn't even think of snaking if it's needed down the road that makes sense. Fingers crossed I should be able to get my flange flush with two sweeping 90's in line rather than the tighter radius so hopefully that helps a bit. I was lucky and while the builder couldn't center or level a stud to save their life the drain is dead center with a nice box out of the concrete to work in.

No

@@StarrTile so just any old thinset and mud right ontop of the concrete? Will work just as good?

40

I don't do pre slopes...and you waterproof surface of pan and walls making pre slope obsolete

@@StarrTile Thank you.

So as I mentioned in the video it is not good to have straight 90s, you want sweeping 90s as I also mentioned @10:50... however in this case it wasn't possible but at the end there was a sweeping 90 at the drain. And any plumber will have different cable sizes for their snake in the extreme rare case they need to clear a p-trap

Yes...always

It's already vented below-grade

In Texas too. I had two 3" stack drains both leaking, one was cracked, my guess is a limb may have hit the stack on the roof, I had to peal the exterior siding & sheathing cut to reveal the area, found a Tee that had a big crack, silicon-ed & duct taped! then 12 feet down the wall wear a water supply froze I had to do an emergency fix on, found that someone had been into the wall already, (sheathing cut) sill rotted & non existent, cold air pouring in the wall, some bonehead again performed a hack job where they drilled a 2" hole in the side of a 3" stack for a shower drain & silicon-ed it, leaked like crazy. I just did a quick band aid repair with the sill & insulation to get it tight from the weather the I tore that all out this spring when I remodeled the bathroom all new plumbing, drain, pex for supply. insulated the pipes & wall repaired the sill. It's not often to cold in Northern Texas but we get some 20 degree weather sometimes. Never mind the zero degree temps a few years back. There's only so much you can do when dealing with temps that cold here, the city supply pipes are just not deep enough in the ground.

He knows because it's always the case on a slab

This house must have been built in the 70s, my house had all the nightmare plumbing angles, I was fxxxxx like chuck as well.

@@matthewbegin3462 😂😂😂

@splanzza... What Tim said, always p-trap in the dirt under slabs

@@timtoolman6442 it’s actually not always the case, there might not be a p-trap in there at all. It should have been dug up completely to check.

Yes...but tub to shower conversion it'll already be there below grade

@@StarrTile thank you very much for the advice

@@StarrTile one more question if I mortar my pan to a concrete slab do I need to use self leveler first?

@@samdaniel5703 you are not mortaring your pan to concrete, there will still be a waterproofer or liner or something, you have a lot more research to do it appears

@@StarrTile OK thank you

On concrete slabs they are always below grade

Because everything is the point depending on who is watching it, some people are really ignorant and other people are really bright, how would I know ??? How would you like it if you were really ignorant and then I skipped over stuff, you start asking questions in the comments section and I'd have to go back and forth answering every single one