Ah, such pleasing order, diligence, and accuracy. A delight to watch!

Making good use of time by making proper jigs! Well done Sir!

Thanks, Steve. really liked your idea. will collect on your diagram. thanks.

Great tutorial & very professional job, nice!

Ahh! Steve. Thanks for the reply. I kind of deduced that solution. Thanks for confirming buddy! And also thanks for the previous advice on learning more about LEDs and Ohm's Law. I bought a good book on beginner electronics, and its clarifying more and more everytime I read it. It even has topics on POV and Multiplexing which is awesome! So hopefully I will be able to replicate what you have created here very soon!

Great job man. Congrats !!!!

Great job, amazing ,very pro

wow awesome method this looks so much easier than the other Jigs Ive seen.. I tried a 5x5x5 and made a mess of it haha

Great job... best jig yet! New sub

I've already built a working cube, thanks to Kevin Darrah for all his work and also Arthur (see long version) whose jigs I used. I have now started a second cube, this time using diffused leds instead of the clear type . However , after I saw your jigs, Steve, I decided to try out your method. My jigs were not as good as I would have liked but the end result having finished two 8x8 planes is surprisingly good...6 more to build. So a big thankyou for your idea.I would suggest that if anyone is planning on building the rgb cube that they use ULN2803A ICs rather than hundreds of transistors...a drastic reduction in wiring and components.I got it down to 4 boards...the arduino + SR + mosfets on one and the 3 x (shift registers + ICs) using Veroboard. In conclusion, I would recommend your jigs, Steve, as they give the best results and it seemed a lot quicker making a plane.

Nice job

now im buildin 5x5x5 rgb led cube and im gonna use ur technique! thank u

Well done Sir!

Great tutorial

woooow genious method !

superb...........

very good. thanks.

woow super thanks

Cost and availability of PCBs seems to be a recurring theme, as it seems there is a keen interest in building this fantastic cube. I built this project, the hard way, using prototyping stripboards, and lots of ribbon cable, super-glue, etc., to fan the wiring out to the LEDs. Apart from 1 dodgy LED, it all worked perfectly. Thankfully the bad LED was at the outer edge of the cube, so was relatively easy to replace. [[If Steve will allow, and I'll go no further if he objects : - consent given]], I have designed a set of PCBs that I know I can have manufactured at a very reasonable cost, providing I can order a minimum of 10 sets. My design differs slightly from Steve's, I have opted for a Cathode shift register board for each panel, and one Anode s/r board. The additional buffering needed for the OE LE and CK networks is taken care of on each Cathode s/r board. The Cathode and Anode S/R boards simply use straight IDC plug/socket connectors to mount below the base PCB, to which the cube matrix is mounted on top. There are no SMT components anywhere, one thing I know was a subject of some concern. Apart from 6 connections from the Anode S/R board to the Arduino, there is no other wiring to do, everything is handled on the 4-layer base board. Even the Arduino is powered from the Anode S/R board!. This will make this a doddle to connect up. I've said it before, possibly here, and elsewhere, the true success of this cube is what you see up top, and that is dictated by the design of the jigs.... fantastic job Steve !! Anyway, back to the PCBs. A "set" consists of ... 1. Base Board - 9 inches square - 4-layer - FR4 - 1.6mm - I have deliberately put no silk-screen text on the top layer, in case you don't use the .... 2. Cover Board - 9 inches square - NO COPPER - 1.6 mm - both sides totally silk-screened black. This board is a cosmetic cover for the Base Board... the cube LED wires pass through it, so topside is all nice and tidy. You don't have to use it, depends how you want your cube to look. I can't exclude it from the "set" however. 3. Drivers Board - All 8 Cathode driver boards and one Anode driver board are panelised on this one PCB. They will need to be cut (separated), which I can do for a small fee. If at least ten people can give me their intention to purchase the set of 3 boards, I will be able to sell them for just £69 per set, (add £5 for cutting the Drivers Board). Price includes postage to you, but it needs a minimum of 10 people willing to give me their word they will buy... a dangerous game, I know. If you are interested, drop me an email at abtrain@tiscali.co.uk

Great job Steve! Very inspiring. I also built my RGB Cube but only 4x4x4 using charlieplexing and Arduino alone, even made a video on my channel. Most problems are usually with mechanical design not electronics or firmware. And you solved them very clever. What are you planning as the next project?

@Rednassie: I can no longer see your comments either and it isn't me removing them. Can't explain what's going on, maybe KZfaq has done it, but for reasons unknown to me.

Only one words...... wowooo!!!!!! Great perfection. For such type of accuracy in work, one has to be patient and continues to do job. I think to built one layer in one week & total 8 layer in 8 weeks i.e 2 months to built it. can you tell me how did you get the perfect straight cu wire from and whats it SWG?

WAIT, so i have to make the pcb myself? GREAT!

Useful files of project so far for Download (PDF format): www.dropbox.com/sh/fyvszu2xnow17fg/AACotfHOmN3eo0gS3QTL1lH1a?dl=0

Excellent work, I have reviewed the list of materials and doing calculation of the respective prices would cost about $ 600 making the respective conversion, expensive

Interesting how you are building the vertical planes first when others work horizontally from he bottom up.

Amazing, I'm going to build a simple 1 color cube, I'm going to borrow your curling method, thank you. Do you think tined 22awg would work? If not where are you buying the 20awg? Again thank you

Im new to electronics, is that tinned copper wire sold in straight lengths or only in spools? Do you have a cheap go to source online?

Steve, can I use a 74hc595 chip instead of a TLC5916 in your project? What do I need to do? and can another microcircuit use MAX7219

It's a thing of beauty {sniff sniff} kinda gets a guy choked up a little bit... even a manley man! So u got a cost on this build , time and money? and how many tons of solder did it take? Nice jig BTW!

Steve very well done BRILLIANT! I have 2 questions for you. First question is if the anode shift register is connected to the last Shift Register what is needed in the code to make it work? Simply put the Anode shift register is the last SR in the chain? I have tried a few things like adding 8 bits times the number of shift registers to get it to work. The other question is the code for the Arduino does not for teensy since teensy does not support the ISR(TIMER2_COMPA_vect).

I collect without twisting rings on the findings. it is possible to replace the burnt diodes.

What part of the drill bits needs to be .8 mm. I find lots of bits but the shaft has many different sizes. Like for dremels or standard drills with adjustable chucks. Could you possibly offer a place to source them?

Steve, hello. I make a cube according to your drawing. And I have a question, in Construction Jigs.pdf on page 5 the letter E is depicted but there is no description. What and what sizes is made

Hello Steve. First, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I saw this and had to try and build it. But, I'm new to electronics and am confused about the "220 ohm resistor in series inside the crock clip" statement. Could you explain how you did that please? It's my limited understanding that you clipped the alligator clip to one end of a resistor, then used the other free end to touch and test the LEDs. Lol. Please help. Thanks Steve!

Steve, 74hc595 not used because of resistors? since in the tlc5916 one resistor regulates the current at the outputs. and in 74ns595 you need to put on all 8 channels. Or is there something else. ?

hmm. great vid and i wonder why you don't get a 1000k likes so i added one, by the way i have a small doubt what will be good to use the common anode or the common cathode leds and why?

On page 5 of your drawing you call out item "E" but do not have it on the materials list. It is the white base shown in this video for your panel forming video. What is that material?

hello. and when will the rest of the blog parts 1,2,3

Hi Steve In your GIG file there is one for the 8 x 8 PANEL FORMING JIG what are the dimension for the " E " item. It seems the dimensions are missing for this part... also would you give me dimension for the holes to allign the 8 rows of LED

Can you please told me about the straight wire you used

Hi is a line in Shift Register Board 1 JP3 Pin 2 with Shift Register Board 2 JP1 PIN2

would it be selfish of me to ask if you could make a metric version of your jig layout please?

hi Steve, Can you plz help me in displaying letters in this 3D RGB LED cube. Thanks

Hello. Can I buy from you all the cube needed for this

Steve, hello. Please tell me. I found chips with PWM. please look at them if they can suit me for 8 * 8 * 8 RGB led cube PWM. Chip TLC 5947, TLC5955

ho cominciato a costruire questo fantastico cubo uno dei migliori che cisono in rete complimenti ma ho delle lacune riguardo al pulsante che bisogna montare e al collegamento dei fili sulle schede e allo sketch finale che bisogna caricare

@Jay: Thanks, do you think you'll give this method a try?

Any idea how it can be done ?

Hey! Could you share your code?