Most informative. I had read or seen the info about late summer application 2 years ago, and hit our stands in late September, just once, with a very strong mix of glyphosate and a large sprayer, on a calm morning. Unfortunately the sprayer got damaged so it didn't get done last year. But the single application was quite effective last year. This spring I am seeing a few plants coming up, so will follow the same approach this fall. The largest area is on a near 2 to 1 slope, so I don't know what natives can work there.

We treated an acre's worth of knotweed last fall. So far, with the exception of tiny shoots cropping here and there, we have not seen any substantial growth. Before spraying, we had spent the entire summer, almost every day, sometimes twice a day, hitting every plant with a scythe. Doing this, we deprived the plant an opportunity to photosynthesize leaves and feed the rhizomes. In one stand of knotweed in adjoining property that we treated,, the entire sprayed knotweed stand is dead with the exception of those few rootballs to the rear of the dense patch that we missed. These had grown to approximately a foot. Our plan with these is to keep them down until October, and re-spray. Lest we think we're just behind, much of the rest of the town has spurious growth going on. So far, so pleased.

Thanks a lot sir!

Okay its second week of September. I have to be patient. Your kit came super fast...thank you!

Thanks for this video. I used your tips and applied glyphosate gel (roundup) right before the first frost on a stand of knotweed in my garden. I have not seen a single leaf of knotweed in the year since. Btw this was in Stockholm, Sweden.

Using your product and it’s great - thanks for the video! The house I purchased has knotweed growing all through the lawn. It was clear cut and the lawn reseeded before I purchased, but predictably the knotweed is growing back already. I need to be able to mow the lawn. Should I mow and bag? What options do I have, particularly this spring?

Hi John--thank you for all this information. We are dealing with huge swaths of knotweed on a property we bought at the end of 2022. Last fall we applied glyphosate to a portion of it, and it was fairly successful. This year we will use your kit and try to hit it twice, and tackle more of it. I know you say not to cut, but it's June 1 and much of it is already over 5 feet tall. By fall, even if we create paths within the swaths, we won't be able to get anywhere near the tops of the plants for foliar spraying. Would it make sense to cut it now just to create shorter plants for fall? They'd be huge again by then, but maybe slightly more manageable for spraying... (Also, I don't think treating the stems is an option for us--there's simply too much. Spraying is probably our only hope.)

I have had a patch growing for years on the edge of my property, this year I got tired of spraying and took the backhoe of my tractor and dug about 2 foot down over an 8’ wide and 50 foot path, removed what seems like 5 miles of roots and rhizomes. After the digging with the backhoe I screen the soil with a fine tooth pitch fork to sift through and pick out the roots by hand ( only half way done) the plan is to keep the soil soft in that area and rip out by hand whatever survives

Great videos, thanks. So, if you knock down a path way to treat the knotweed (large sections like you show in your video) what happens to the 5 feet path ways that you knocked down? I imagine when you go back the 2nd time those pathways will need to be treated? And then the pathways only get one treatment? We have a large area of land that has japanese knotweed (didn't even know what it was until recently). There are other invasive plants/vines/bushes/etc. Would it be better to treat the Japanese knotweed first and leave the other plants until japanese knotweed is controlled? Original thought by the company I contacted was to use a forestry cutter to clear everything out and then wait for knotweed to grow back and apply herbicides but watching your videos and doing other reading I am wondering if that will cause it to spread more and make things worse?

What are good native plants to plant while doing the glyphosate treatments? Would buckwheat survive it ok? I'm in zone 6a GTA, Ontario. Clay, heavy, soil amidst invasive buckthorn. There's also apricot, garlic mustard, Manitoba maple, dog strangling vine, and creeping bell flower... And some plants we want.

Amazing information. If i can't spray (0.5 acre area) in fall, as i will be traveling, is summer a good option? or should i wait for next season?

Hey, I’m about to tackle my knotweed invasion. My question is: the plants are alrdy really talk and bushy. Shall I cut them down now so I can treat them more effective in fall? Maybe burn the cut sticks in a big fire pit or shall I just let it grow until fall? It’s alrdy way taller than I am. Thank you in advance. Also will it damage my Peach tree next to the knotweed with the foam? Really appreciate your knowledge.

thank you for your knowl3dge in helping our battles and struggles with this invasive super demon

We’re up in Maine, been holding tight all summer waiting for flowering to arrive then pass to treat our knotweed. We’re almost there, ready to spray them sometime in the next week with the foamy glyphosate. With rain in the forecast though, should we hold off? If it rains the day after application will that reduce the effectiveness?

I'm looking to clear knotweed from the side of a river. Is it safe to use glyphosate via your method with the foam near water?

what are these full eradication techniques ya'll are working on? Hoping to hear more soon!

I have about 1/2 acre, what are your thoughts on burning the dry stalks (in large metal barrels) if I don’t have a place to dispose of them (city ordinances prevent from dumping)

I have a 3 mature stands I'm trying to eradicate. In early spring after cutting and filling the hollow with herbicide (for the really big thick canes), there has been no major regrowth from the main stand. Any regrowth has been small (less than 1/2 cm in diameter) but also a bunch of the small ones have grown along the fringes. What do I do with these early on during the season? Do I just cut them? Then stop cutting late summer so I can foliage spray? Keep in mind that the majority of my knotweed now is small in diameter. Their leaves are still big. Also, they say cutting can stimulate new growth. Does the same apply to herbicide treatment?

one of green shoots videos suggested cutting stalks to 1-10 inches before Fall herbicide application. Which is it cut or no cut? thanks for video

Hi John, Is it ok to leave the brown canes in a pile after they are treated and cut. By that I mean will they eventually rot etc. Thanks in advance - great video

I am trying to get rid of knotweed in backyard which is about 1/4 acre. We took all the dead stalks down in the spring and dug some up to, I have been cutting them back every 2 weeks as they keep growing. Should I not be cutting them back and let them grow and use herbicide in late fall instead?

We have about 3 Acres of knotweed in southern NH. The house was abandoned for about 15 years and the knotweed spread throughout the property. We have goats and chickens free ranging on the property (and dogs and children!) What are the guidelines for using your product with animals living on the property?

I am buying a home in Maine that has at least an acre of this. Do I have to tackle the entire acre in one season ? And some of it surrounds two lovely full grown weeping willows. If I use the herbicide on the weed around them will it damage the willows?

Hi, I want to know would I be able to kill the knotweed if I drill a hole into the stem and pour the poison in? Also how often should I repeat this? Thanks.

To tackle a huge patch, (make a few trails first on the inside and also blaze a trail around the perimeter), start inside the clump and spray all the stems first, then start at the back and work your way out spraying the undersides of the leaves. Next, go around the perimeter of the patch, carefully spraying all the leaves around the outer edge. Lastly, open your nozzle to full stream and spray over the top of the patch from all sides. Take heart, next year the knotweed will be stunted and easier to spray. 1)The ultimate date for spraying Knotweed is on or around September 15, after the bees are done pollinating. 2) Use 2 ounces Glyphosate and one ounce of a sticker per gallon. 3) Tighten your nozzle to just more than a mist (depending on distance away from the plant) and cover every inch of each plant, first the stem, then leaves and undersides of leaves too if at all possible. 4) The silver bullet to eradicating knotweed is this... when you are done thoroughly spraying... wait for the herbicide to be totally absorbed/dry and spray it all over again one more time! (2nd spray could be done the next day.) After only having 10 percent eradication of the knotweed clumps I treated year after year (for 10 years)... I finally used the double spray in one day technique and found 90% eradication the following season.

Purchased land last year, after running a field cultivator over it, and planting alfalfa, I now have a huge patch of Japanese Knotweed 🤐💩 Little pieces of roots all over the place