No worries, seems its a more popular topic to cover than I thought.

Yeah thats why the k swap is easier, you basically ditch the whole carby engine loom and start from scratch. I actually think it might be easier doing that with a B series too. Like make/modify a custom conversion harness which plugs into the shock tower plugs as everything should be there which is needed for B

Awesome! Thank you!

Awesome, the carby cars are actually not that much harder than an EFI to do a K swap. Yell out if you have any questions. Cheers

Glad it helped, was actually wondering if i should even film one but had a few requests and it seems like there are a few carby cars which need converting 😊

Your the only person I could find on this that's working on a carb civic and you went in to good detail I'll keep you posted on my car just waiting on it from the spray shop

No problem 👍

Sure I can do. Is it the wiring part you would like me to focus on? Its actually pretty easy with the K swap because majority of the wiring is independent from the car. Feel free to let me know which in particular you would like more info and i'll do another vid.

@@teamaxlestands yes please. I'm all the way in the bahamas 🇧🇸 and I'm the only person with a carburetor eg. And I'm doing this all on my own and your the only person that I've seen made it possible.

Plus you show in detail all the areas needed. But it would be a honor and a privilege when ever your free. I know your a busy man.

@@teamaxlestands wiring is my issue

Just did another short video with a bit more detail - hopefully this helps :)

Not having a lot of experience with B or D series engines but I'd imagine you need efi car engine and under dash loom at a minimum. I think the fuse box should work as all the diagrams I've seen were the same between efi/carb cars.

yeah so the engine requires a few wires. "conversion harnesses" usually supply a lot of these wires from the car to the ecu. If you cant get a conversion harness for your accord you'll have about a dozen wires which you need to source and hookup to the ecu/engine loom. These are things like ignition powers, grounds, reverse lights, dash temp sensor, fuel pump, oil pressure light. Its not impossible, but a bit harder.

@@teamaxlestands Thanks a lot! I totally forgot about the dash warning lights.

Cheers mate

Not yet, ELD really doesnt matter at all. The check engine i'd like to get working, the stock dash didnt have the light so i think i'll have to do some wiring to get that one working with my new dash. Not a biggie for me at the moment as i have the bluetooth dongle to help with any errors.

I used a Honda one... and modified it and it basically works like a normal 4 pin relay. So yeah if i had my time again i'd use a normal relay. If you already have a Honda one and want to know how i wired it let me know i'm pretty sure i have it written down somewhere. If using a normal one you'd have Pin 85 to ACC Pin 86 to ECU Pin 30 to 15amp spare fuse in the fuse holder and pin 87 running to the fuel pump positive.

Is ek one ok to use ? I don’t mind to get a Honda one haha

Yeah I'm pretty sure they run the same relay. Just got my notes on this and you can double check but my eg wiring was: Yellow/Green: To positive side of Fuel Pump. Black/Yellow: To Accessories/Ignition. Black: to ground. Yellow/white - 12v fuse under dash (constant power). Green/yellow to ECU trigger

oh and there are 2 more wires left which need to be joined. Blue/White and Yellow/black - this is because the standard relay runs like a twin relay in one and you only really need one with a K series.

Hmm I bought it off FB marketplace so I don't have the vin. As I understand it all EFI EK sedans have the same tank so as long as it's EFI it should be fine. Pretty sure this was an ek4 from memory

Yeah this wasnt exactly correct. I went off the colours of the wires and the ELD and MIL were not working. I have a feeling the carby cars (at least mine) didnt run electronic load detections and getting the check engine working is still on my todo list. I'll be sure to update this wehn i work it out

oh wow, that's pretty strict. I've heard CA is the toughest of all the states in the US. Really they are all pretty similar, they just reduced the number of lines and the location of the fuel pressure regulate/EVAP gear to the thank.

Your carb car should have hard lines (unless its modified) and it will depend on the size of your hardlines. With my car the lines were adequate and all i had to do was remove all the existing rubber hose and replace it with high pressure EFI hose. I also had to swap the breather with the return (for some reason in my car they used a bigger breather hard line than return so I simply swapped them). I'd jump under your car and have a good look if you have hard lines, and if you do are they suitable size. If someone has replaced them all with rubber i'd install your USDM hardlines.

Correct - I used an EK sedan in my eg hatch. Pretty sure the EK hatch would work too. Coupe is slightly different but might work too.

@@teamaxlestands thanks really helps knowing that they are way more available here than eg tanks

@@k20aeg39 yeah same here, because we got a big chunk of eg civics in carby form. The efi eg tanks are pretty hard to come by. Thats the whole reason i rolled the dice with an EK one.

I actually didn't use the cabin harness at all in the end. There are 3 wires which usually tap into the cabin harness for a k swap. engine light, electronic load detector (which doesn't exist) and fuel pump. I've run a separate wire for the fuel pump and i monitor the fault codes (engine light) on my phone through an app. In terms of the plug which the conversion harness plugs into (shock tower plug) its identical so very easy.

with some modifications you can. That's what this video is covering.

Yeah I used a main relay but wired it up so it works like a regular relay just for the fuel pump. It simply connects the main fuel pump wire when the ecu grounds the relay.

Can you produce a wiring diagram if it’s not to much to ask

For me it plugged in and work. One thing i think i'm missing is the fuel light because my car didnt ever have one. I believe there is one pin missing in my plug but it doesnt impact the level working at all.

@@teamaxlestands love it thank you! Do you have a Facebook or a email I can contact you at I'm going to be starting my swap soon and I'd appreciate it if I could use you as a reference.

@@Beezy_Builds sure - I created a facebook page under team axle stands and msgs should come through to me. Just give me a msg on there.

@@teamaxlestands perfect thank you

Fitting the tank is pretty easy. Just remove the 3 fuel lines (feed, return and breather) which are all at the bottom of the tank. Remove the Filler neck (this is probably the most fiddly bit). Then you can drop the tank down by undoing the 2 straps that hold it up. Installation is the reverse however with the efi tank the lines are at the top so you'll need some extra hose to join them to the existing lines if you go that route. EK hatch should work fine, i used an EK sedan and it wasnt exactly the same but bolted up fine.

oh you can also see a bit more here on the tank swap (sorry for the terrible filming): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f7lopLRimanbm4k.html

I'm using a generic style conversion harness which i got off ebay. There are quite a few people making and selling them. The conversion harness plugs into the E plug and the C101 plug and then to the 2 plugs on the right hand shock plug. The A plug goes to the engine loom and the D plug is the auto plug (i havent had much experience with it but pinouts are available).

@@teamaxlestands I got all the harness installed but when I turn my key on I don’t have any lights on my cluster . Any idea what ive done wrong ? I got everything working from lights ,horn radio but no lights on cluster .

Di you mean like your indicators/lights to light up the dash? I'm not sure this will be related to your conversion harness. The only bits which come through that are usually: Alternator light, oil pressure, check engine and speedo/tacho and i dont think any of those would stop other dash lights coming on. Maybe check the fuse box under the steering wheel and also the one in the engine bay? If you are talking about the cluster illumination it could be blown bulbs too i guess. They do all seem to blow at about the same time.

@@teamaxlestands yeah I’m talking about the cluster illumination. Indicator ,hazard head lights are working apart from the actual light on cluster .

This was a D15z2 - i'd imagine they'd all be a similar setup. It had a computer which controlled valves to run it correctly. I guess as close to EFI without being efi.

@@teamaxlestands Yeah mine has an ecu, I guess for the same purpose

I unplugged the d series engine harness at the shock tower and pushed these plugs into the cabin. But yes at the moment the old harness still exists and is just not used.

@@teamaxlestands I'm just starting and I hope I don't seem like a bother but I'll be asking a bit of questions relating to this.

Yeah i have to do a driving video. I've probably done about 1000 kms in it now and its still driving well. I've been fixing up/improving a few things but it pretty reliable so far!

@@teamaxlestands that’s awesome I’m gonna do my k swap on my eg twin carby and I’m gonna do your same fuel set up

@@teamaxlestands awesome work, Just a question. I have a carby Eg and i have to swap a k24, can i Just buy an efi pump ad insert it info the stock eg3 fuel tank?

@@lucabellantoni5350 Not easily. The carby fuel tank has to outlets at the bottom of the tank which feed the pump (in the engine bay). Whereas the efi style ones have a removable pump part which you insert from the top. I've seen some people do an external pump, but you may have issues with fuel surge unless you put a surge tank in.

@@teamaxlestands Thank u so much. since the outlet Is up on a EFI FUEL tank for Civic eg5, do you think i can order It and insert It into my eg3? Which EFI fuel tank models are mechanically compatibile with my eg3?